Posts Tagged With: Little RIver

2017 Trip Two: Tour of Texas March 11 and 12

Gadsden, Alabama. Sunday March 12

Trees starting to bloom in northern Alabama.

March 11, Huntsville Alabama

Watercress Capital to Rocket City is the quick summary of Huntsville Alabama. We left Tupelo Mississippi Saturday morning on a gray, drizzly drive through the Bankhead National Forest. Once again, the ride was on smooth, two lane roads. We passed on the Jesse Owens Museum for the Natural Bridge of Alabama as our quick stop before the bright lights of Huntsville.

The Natural Bridge of Alabama was actually a decent rock formation run by a mom and pop operation; much better than the natural bridge we saw a few years ago in the Missouri Ozarks. The stop helped to solidify that the geography was changing, this area starts the foothills of the Appalachian mountains. The visit was not too long, the drizzly rain was cool and a warm car was beckoning. The formations and hiking are similar to the northern portion of Georgia we encountered a year and a half ago when we were on our way to visit the Great Smoky Mountains.

This is not cotton growing area. We are realizing there is a great deal of manufacturing in northern Mississippi and Alabama. Huntsville, Gadsden and Tupelo all have a strong manufacturing base. Huntsville has a population of 180,000. Huntsville has its European settler roots, founded by a man named Hunt in 1805. The Indian population left early due to disease and U.S. pressure. After the Civil War, textile manufacturers moved into the area and along with railroads, kept the economy humming. As the Great Depression ravaged the area, the growing of watercress was Huntsville’s claim to fame.

WWII brought the beginning of its newest phase. The Redstone Arsenal was established here to produce chemical weapons. While the U.S. signed off on the agreement not to use chemical weapons, it kept the provision it could make them to use against an enemy who used them first against us. When WWII was over, Redstone became the home of the Werner von Braun rocket development group and to this day maintains a strong presence in rocket development by the military and many civilian contractors. The von Braun history is a whole book worth of writing we are not going to attempt to touch.

The base of the Saturn V rocket, can not even get the whole thing in the viewfinder

Today, for most people Huntsville and the Arsenal are known for the Marshall Space Center and the U.S. Space and Rocket Center. The Center is a large collection of exhibits devoted to space, rocketry and the military. We spent several hours here touring the exhibits, seeing such items as inventions developed out of Huntsville, Saturn V rocket, Apollo moon launches, Apollo command module, space lab suits, etc.

We took an hour-long bus ride focusing on re-built aircraft from the post WWII era. We toured the facility where over 4500 youth attend one week-long classes at Aviation Challenge with simulations on flying military aircraft. Coming this summer will be the chance to experience up to 3.2 Gs in a centrifuge. The place also runs a Space Camp focused on science, rocketry and robotics for youth.

Saturday evening was Mass at a service with the church full and the balcony full also. Dinner was at a franchise called Logans’s Roadhouse, a southern style steakhouse now in 23 states. A good meal and less expensive than Outback. Standard lodging at Hampton Inn.

View of the Tennessee River near Fort Payne AL

Sunday our journey began in cold weather but it warmed up to almost 60 degrees F with a great sun out. We enjoyed the day immensely, partially because we know tomorrow is to be rainy and colder. (Still much better than the snow forecast from the Dakotas over to Boston.) We drove almost to the Georgia border as we crossed the wide Tennessee river and started climbing hills again. Our primary destination was the Little River Canyon National Preserve.

Little River became part of the National Park Service in 1992. It protects a river unique in that it flows atop a mountain, retaining a pristine and clean river. We were able to observe several creeks feeding into the river. The creeks were very clear. It provided a sharp contrast to most of the rivers we have observed in northern Mississippi and Alabama which have been uniformly brown.

The canyons here are deep and extensive, and along with other protected wilderness areas in the Northeast Alabama area, provide for extensive recreational opportunities. There is a visitor center jointly sponsored by NPS, a local university, NASA and others which sponsors considerable educational lessons for people in an area from Chattanooga to Birmingham.

The “Trail of Tears”, that forced march of Muscogee Creeks, Chickasaw, Seminoles, and Cherokee from portions of the south and east to Indian territory in the 1830s went through part of this area.

Little RIver Falls

Our experience started at the visitor center and then moved outdoors, with viewing of the Little River Falls. Then we drove up to DeSoto Falls, north of DeSoto State Park. This can be confusing, there is a DeSoto Falls in Georgia which we also visited 18 months ago. Both are named after Hernando DeSoto, a Spanish explorer who came through the area in 1539-1540.

Wildflower Cafe in Mentone AL

Lunch was at the Wildflower Cafe in Mentone AL, a small town home to unique shops and eclectic personalities (Jude, sort of like Madrid,NM). We ate nutritionally here, a brunch extravaganza of a strawberry crepe with whipped cream, spinach quiche, five kinds of fresh fruit, a tomato pie, and mashed potatoes with strips of steak and zucchini.

Little RIver Canyon

After lunch we drove along Lookout Mountain Parkway, passing a small Baptist church with three walls of standard construction and a fourth wall completely comprised of one huge boulder. Then it was on to view more of Little River Canyon, stopping at several overlooks to view the canyon, another waterfall, and hiking some trails. The canyon depth is over 600 feet towards the canyon’s southern edge. The waterfalls were about 90 to 130 feet high. Trees are beginning to blossom, we are worried we may miss the bluebonnets in Texas if they pop too soon.

Chris and Ed at Top of the River in Gadsden AL

Dinner was at a local restaurant, Top of the River, which specializes in catfish and cornbread. Well, I have never liked the idea of catfish. I mean, those fish are ugly. I thought I had tasted them years ago and did not like it, too mushy and greasy. Our server was persuasive in getting us to try catfish as part of a combination platter. We decided on a platter with catfish, shrimp, and a chicken kebab. The platter comes with hush puppies, coleslaw, corn bread, and a baked potato. Plenty of fried food and carbohydrates. Hopefully our healthy lunch balanced it all out. We actually decided the catfish was not too bad. A major advancement for southern food over our northern taste buds.

Ed and Chris. March 12

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2015 Trip Six: The Great Smoky Mountains, October 14-15

Gatlinburg, TN Oct. 15

The creation of Great Smoky Mountains National park would make for a great movie. (Books have been written on the process.) What storyline would the movie have? Well: school kids collecting money to buy land for the park; fisticuffs in board meeting of the organizing group; lumber companies grasping for dollars; bribes given; deadlines given and met; political machines in action; lawsuits; and the impact of the Great Depression.

Great Smoky Mountains from Cataloochee valley overlook

Great Smoky Mountains from Cataloochee valley overlook

The park was a dream beginning in the late 1800s but grew more serious in the 1920s. The country had gone through a major discussion and creation of the National Park Service in 1916. A major focus of the discussion was a difference in attitude that resulted in the national forests being more “utilitarian” in purpose (lumbering being one major emphasis allowed) and the national parks outlawing lumbering and only for preservation and recreation. Thus lumber companies that owned much of the land in this area were opposed to a national park being created. The lumbering interests were clear cutting the land, creating a wasteland, allowing forest fires that, due to trees being removed, burnt down into the shallow topsoil and resulting in run-off that silted up the streams. However, the lumber companies employed many people and were a major tax base. People preferred the local economy that they knew versus a promise of future riches.

Easterners were pushing for their “own” national park. All of the other national parks were out west. Proponents of new national parks in the east pushed the economic advantages of tourism dollars staying here rather than going to Arizona, California, etc. The federal government had a policy then that it would not use federal dollars to buy land for a new park, the land had to be donated in some fashion.

Well, long story short. Tennessee and North Carolina citizens raised $1,000,000. The Rockefellers donated $5,000,000. The states donated additional funds. Park acceptance was tied in with development of Shenandoah National Park to create greater Congressional clout. In 1934 enough money and land was committed that the National Park Service took over the land ownership and future development. This park was a major site for the Civilian Conservation Corps who worked in the 1930s to create recreational facilities and to build trails and roads. In 1940 the park was actually dedicated by Franklin Roosevelt.

One of the preserved original farm homes

One of the preserved original farm homes

We mentioned Cades Cove in an earlier post. We have visited several park locations now where families sold their land and moved out for development of the park. Unfortunate timing meant many of them sold land that had allowed for self-sufficiency in exchange for money that was lost during the bank failures of the 1930s. Over 4,000 people were moved out, a lot of them unwillingly. A lot of hard feelings existed for many years, some still lingering today. However, the promise of regional economic prosperity due to a national park has come to fruition. Great Smoky Mountains is the most popular national park with twice as many visits as the Grand Canyon.

Bull elk and some of his cows

Bull elk and some of his cows at Cataloochee Valley Great Smoky Mountain National park

One of those settlement areas was Cataloochee valley where in 1910 over 1200 people were living. A few buildings have been preserved. We drove there (two hours one way) and had great mountain views and watched a herd of 20 elk. The prime male bull was bugeling and minding his harem of female cow elk, with two young bulls hanging around. The elk had been re-introduced into the park in 2001. There are about 100 elk in the park now.

While people were hanging round watching the elk, the crowd was not unreasonable. Part of that may be due to several miles of narrow dirt curvy roads that frequently require ongoing traffic to back up or wait at slight widening in the road for the opposing cars to pass by. We met one couple where the husband was the local service rep for Marvin Windows based in Warroad MN. You may recall that we toured the Marvin factory back in August of this year.

Hiking along the Little River

Hiking along the Little River

Otherwise we continued our varied hikes. Today’s major hike was five and a half miles along the Little River, watching and listening to the hum/roar of the water rushing past the rocks. On this hike we encountered a large number of anglers. This area is home to the largest number of diverse salamander species.

Cabin in Elkmont area

Cabin in Elkmont area

Other hikes continued the climbing paths through forests and along streams. Old farm buildings, churches and schools were encountered. One area of the park (Elkmont) was the vacation cottage area of the Knoxville, TN elite. A whole block of buildings are on display to convey the camp resort feel of the time with a central clubhouse.

Wednesday we went on a ranger led talk. He covered many topics but also touched on the great loss to these forests with the near elimination of the American chestnut tree due to chestnut blight in the 1920s. The chestnut tree grew to 100 feet in height and 10 feet in diameter. The nuts were major sources of food for bears and people. Now the American chestnut is, for all practical purposes, no longer in this area.

This wraps up our week at the Westgate Smoky Mountain Resort. Tomorrow we drive over to North Carolina where we spend most of the next week.

Ed and Chris 8:45 PM

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