Posts Tagged With: Wintergreen Dogsledding Lodge

2014 Trip One, March 1, Ely Dog Sledding

Ely Minnesota
Saturday March 1, 2014

The day started with kennel care (feeding the dogs and cleaning the kennel area) at 7:40 AM with the temperature in the mid minus twenties. Let me just say that there are six people on this journey. Only one went to kennel care this AM and it was not a female.

Colin fed us another wonderful meal of breakfast burritos with bacon, eggs, spinach, salsa, cheese, etc. We packed up for a day of dog sledding. Winds were to hit the high teens and temperatures to peak out at minus six. Who knows what reality was.

Greg hitching Isis and Stoney.

Greg hitching Isis and Stoney.

We, in general, kept warm. The wisdom of dressing in layers with the wicking bottom layer, fleece or wool next layer with the outer wind protective shell has worked fine. We have been using hand and foot warmers also though. I have not seen anything to keep the icicles from forming on my eyelashes.

Chris and Ed and our team

Chris and Ed and our team

We left the lodge a little after ten. Today Chris and I were in the lead sled. We had been in position two yesterday. We made a lunch stop from 1:30 to 2:15 and were back to the lodge at 4 pm. In between were grand times of riding the sled through the forest and on White Iron Lake. Even now, Chris and I say “We did it” with a real sense of satisfaction and achievement.

Up close and personal

Up close and personal

Lunch was at the “base camp”. This was a tented enclosure with a wood stove to heat up lunch. The dogs remained outside. Lunch was quesadillas and brats and ramen noodles.

Lunch at base camp

Lunch at base camp

The lake ride is smoother but windy with deep, loose snow on either side of the trail. The wind has blown over portions of the trail making the tree branches Greg stuck in the snow a few days ago invaluable guideposts. The trail is not perfectly smooth, so you lurch from side to side and periodically worry about tipping over.

Lunch time

Lunch time

In the woods, we are protected from the wind but face (literally) tree branches, or sharp corners that might tip you or jam you into a tree with a sudden stop. When you are jammed, and it does happen, you need to carefully pull/push/tug at the sled to unjam it without letting the dogs pull it out of your control and dumping you in the snow. At that point, you yell “Loose Sled” and hope the guide in front of you can stop it or that your team stops when it pulls up to the sled in front of you.

The woods also has hills. Up where you help to push the sled. Down where you ride the brake HARD to keep control and not run over the dogs. The trail is not much wider than the sled, making it hard to get real purchase in the snow to push the sled when needed.

This makes the experience seem hard. But hard is not correct term. It was a challenge that we enjoyed. It pushed us out of our comfort zone but we succeeded. The thrill was constant. The scenery beautiful. The weather freaking cold but dealt with.

Coming onto the  lake from the woods

Coming onto the lake from the woods

We are thankful to our guides, Colin and Greg, who broke the trail, chased loose sleds, encouraged us, and made wise decisions in times of uncertainty. They shepherded us through thick and thin; they had in-depth and wide-ranging knowledge and skills; They cooked great breakfasts and on trail lunches. Finally, we thank them for their for their camaraderie.

Our dogs were great. Isis and Stoney as leads, Lomi as middle, and Yukon and Pecan as wheels. They pulled the sled, the two of us, and some gear. The dogs may have nipped at each other, but they were affectionate and friendly to us. Petting them put them in paroxysms of joy.

The team resting at lunch time

The team resting at lunch time

The evening meal was enchiladas, salad and corn bread. Our dessert was a cake shaped like an igloo-thanks to Ted the chef.
After dinner, the six of us received our “Dogsled Diploma” attesting to our outstanding accomplishment.

Finally, the six of us watched the video “North to the Pole”. I probably have not said enough about Wintergreen. This place was founded by Paul and Susan Schurke. In March and April of 1986, Paul Schurke and Will Steger (of Ely MN) led an 8 person team to the North Pole. This was the first dog sled expedition to travel without resupply to the North Pole since Robert Peary did it in 1909.

These people, including Ann Bancroft of MN, faced excruciating conditions. Two members had to drop out due to injuries before actually making the North Pole. The video put this expedition in clear focus for us. This lodge, Wintergreen, is run by Paul and Susan Schurke. Paul was one of the two leaders of the 1986 effort and continues to lead various Arctic explorations to this day.

We met Sue again this afternoon and she discussed how she hand-made the garments worn by the team members on this expedition. Their first child was less than a year old when the expedition took off. Sue’s patterns formed the basis for a clothing company that has made the rental outfits Chris and I had on during the trip.

So, yes this trip was fantastic in many ways. I am sure I have left numerous items out. But I also specifically want to thank Sarah, Eileen, Rebecca and Patty for the great times we shared. May your further travels be as precious in your memory as this one.

Ed and Chris 3/1/14 10:15 pm
-18 degrees and dropping

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2014 Trip One Ely Feb. 27th

Thursday, Feb 27, 2014 Ely MN

Oh a glorious day. Not to say there weren’t a few bumps-literally-along the way though. Not a lot of pix. our job today was to: stay on the sled, ride the brake as needed, and stay warm. With the camera tucked away, with stops that were brief and of uncertain length, and with temps well below zero, I wasn’t about to unbundle, get cold, and risk losing the dogs just for a picture. But we have a few.

The day began with feeding the dogs and cleaning up poop in the kennel area. This was at 7:30 AM so obviously we were up before that and getting bundled up. They have over 60 running dogs plus a few retired and 6 pups that aren’t ready for anything other than being adorable.

Colin and Greg made breakfast: sausage, oatmeal, hash brown potatoes, granola and yogurt, and “eggs in a basket” (fried eggs cooked inside a cut out slice of toast). We fired up our internal engines with plenty of food before having our inside class on dogsledding.

Colin ran the class while Greg headed down to the kennel to get the teams assembled. We met Susan Schurke, one of the owners, during breakfast and she gave some tips as well as tidbits into the internal operations.

The day was less windy and sunnier than the forecast had led us to expect-a very positive beginning to our journey. I believe the high today was about -5, a nice increase from the -25 during the night. Tonight is supposed to be back to -27.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

All of us were able to keep pretty warm, the only cold period was in the early afternoon, maybe around 1 pm, when our 3 teams joined up with 4 other teams and that slowed us down as, of course from my perspective, they were not quite as good as we were. There were numerous moments of waiting until the teams ahead were able to break the trail and keep going.

Last week’s blizzard blew snow over most of the trails and they had to be broken or re-groomed. Today was the first non-windy day so that was part of the challenge. Chris and I were in sled two; sled one, the women from WI, had the joy, challenge, and reward of being the leaders much of the time.

We did not leave the lodge until about 10:30. We were out until after two pm for the first run. We started riding across much of the lake, the wind being noticeable but bearable. We took some trails into the woods. The forest trails are narrower, hilly, and fraught with natural obstacles like trees. Going through the forest must be somewhat liking driving a semi. The cab (dogs) make turns close easily. The trailer (sled with Chris and Ed) don’t turn as tight and sometimes get stuck on, or bump into,tree trunks.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and I each only fell off once. Both times were when we were helping the dogs around tight corners. Luckily each time the other one was still on the sled and able to stop the dogs. Oh yes, dog sledding is not just riding and having a great time.

Well, we did have a great time but there is a lot of exertion involved. You are standing, keeping your balance on running boards, reaching back to step on the brake as needed, helping to push the sled around corners and up hills.

Braking is a challenge. These dogs love to run. You can not run into the team in front. You have to slow them on downgrades. Light braking is fine on low hills. Jumpiing up and down on the brake (a smaller platform behind the running board) to dig into the snow is necessary even as you firmly tell the dogs WHOA!.

When you come to a temporary halt, the dogs are straining to go forward. They are howling to the sky. They are arguing/nipping/biting at their neighbor to establish who is the alpha female or male.

Chris, Ed, Isis  Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

Chris, Ed, Isis Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

The dogs are not perfect. Today Colin led the way most of the time on cross country skis. Sometimes the lead team wanted to go another way, or got slightly off the track and stuck in deep snow, or there was a particularly steep hill or bump that had to be negotiated carefully. Colin usually got to provide assistance.

We came back to our lodge around 2 pm. We shared our lodge with the other four teams for lunch-soup,salad, stromboli, etc. We left for our second ride around 3;45. This time the entire ride was just our three sleds and Colin. Greg got pulled away for other lodge duties. We missed him and kept Colin extremely busy working out tangles and miscreant sled dogs.

We pulled into the kennel before six, unharnessed the dogs and fed them. We were all extremely tired but felt happy, proud and reasonably warm. Before warming up, I started our car. So far, it is okay.

Dinner was chicken, peas and carrots, salad, and wild rice pilaf. Many a toast was raised to our exploits and remembrances of the day. Later Greg showed us some You Tube videos of his previous sled dog teams pulling him at a much faster clip than we attained today.

At 9 pm, we went out to observe the night sky and look for the Northern lights. The stars were numerous and bright. The northern lights were faint to the human eye. Greg’s camera is better than mine and tomorrow I hope to show you his pictures. I doubt that I will get up around midnight to view the northern lights again. They are supposed to be more vivid at that time.

Okay, on to bed and muscle recuperation.

Chris and Ed 10:45 pm

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2014 Trip One Dog Sledding in Ely

Wednesday, Feb 26 Ely Minnesota

It’s cold!!! Minus 40 or 50 wind chill tonight. But we have the gear and had the discussion of how to stay warm so we should be fine. By Sunday when we leave we will know for sure but we are looking forward to this experience.

So what are we doing?? This is Chris’ birthday gift. Dog sledding in Ely MN by the Boundary Waters Canoe Area at Wintergreen Dogsledding Lodge (www.dogsledding.com). This place has been written up in National Geographic and other notable publications.

Today was travel and get oriented day. Thursday we take outdoor lessons in dog sledding and take a run in the morning and one in the afternoon.

We left St. Paul around 8:30 AM. Luckily interstate 35 was in excellent driving condition, unlike the roads in the cities themselves. Past Cloquet Minnesota, the wind picked up and light snow was falling. The balance of the drive was in this windy, blustery weather.

Driving past Cloquet MN

Driving past Cloquet MN

We had packed a lunch and decided to drive through the lunch hour in case the weather got worse. So we had lunch while sitting in our car in Ely.

We picked up some rental winter gear and had purchased some other winter gear from the store in Ely associated with the Wintergreen dogsledding lodge. As you can expect, we were early for the arrival time so we had a dessert at a local cafe and drove around the town a bit.

Snow sculptures by the Ely High School

Snow sculptures by the Ely High School

The cafe had local newspapers. The largest one had a special section on the local controversy over a proposal (the PolyMet Company) to begin a new large scale mining operation. The newspapers are definitely for it. The owners of this lodge are not.

We arrived at the lodge at 4 PM. There are four people dogsledding with us. There are two women from Jacksonville, Florida and two women from Madison, Wisconsin. Thus Ed is the only male guest on the trip. Our two guides, Colin and Greg, are young men who seem very knowledgeable and personable.

The road to our lodge

The road to our lodge

The lodge is quite comfortable. It holds the three couples and one of the guides. There are two sitting areas, kitchen, and dining room The guides do the breakfast cooking. There is a chef who makes the lunches and dinners. Dinner tonight was breaded pork chops, cooked carrots, cheesy potatoes, tossed salad, home-made rolls and apple crisp for dessert.

Before dinner, though, Greg took the six of us to the dog kennels to feed them. The dogs heard us coming and started howling well before we were in sight of the kennels. These are Canadian Inuit dogs, born and bred to pull dog sleds. They are, so far, fun to look at and pet. Tomorrow we verify their pulling qualities.

One view of the dogs

One view of the dogs

I did not count but there must have been about 30 or 40 dogs there, not counting dogs that are out with other groups. For instance, there are a dozen teenagers from Houston who are camping out for a week and doing the dog sledding. I am happy to be sleeping inside.

Our Lodge at Wintergreen

Our Lodge at Wintergreen

After dinner we had education time discussing the trips we will take, nutrition, cold weather gear, etc. The 8 of us seem to get along very well.

The sleds are built for two people to stand on and it sounds like sometimes it may take both of us to stop the sled and the dogs. There will be times when we will have to help push the sled also. According to Colin and Greg, this is the only place where the guests actually drive the sleds versus just riding on them.

So there is a brief summary of day one. More excitement tomorrow.

Ed and Chris 9:45 pm 2/26/14

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