Posts Tagged With: Upper Peninsula of Michigan

2013 Trip Seven, September 12, The Sarahs’ Wedding and the UP

Thursday, September 11, 2013
Back in St. Paul, MN

All good things come to an end and so it has been with Trip Seven. The weather cooperated with alternating sun and clouds as we left the shores of Lake Superior and Keweenaw Peninsula and drove through the Porcupine Mountains of Michigan, through back roads of Wisconsin and arrived back in St. Paul at day’s end. But I am typing this as I watch the glorious sun rise in the east over the Mississippi River valley. This must be a portend of a great six weeks here at home before we leave on Trip Eight in late October.

Lake of the Clouds, Porcupine Mountain Wilderness area

Lake of the Clouds, Porcupine Mountain Wilderness area

The Porcupine Mountains, or Porkies, are not western style mountains but rise just under 2,000 feet. At the western end of the UP, they were an appropriate finish to our visit there.

We stopped at Lake of the Clouds scenic area at the eastern end of the Porkies where the rise in elevation provides a view of a long, shallow lake in the mountains. Leaves have not yet attained their fall colors but the scenery is striking none the less.

Manabezho Falls, Presque Isle RIver, Porcupines Mtns

Manabezho Falls, Presque Isle RIver, Porcupines Mtns

Presque Isle RIver

Presque Isle RIver

Michigan has declared the area a wilderness area to preserve old growth forest. The copper deposits are small and not economical to mine. Had we more time, the hiking trails would have beckoned to us.

The roads in the park were undergoing stormwater culvert improvements. The culverts were in but the excavations had not yet been repaved. It was drive a quarter mile, brake, avoid the potholes, accelerate and drive a quarter mile, brake, avoid the potholes, etc. It made us appreciate the areas where the roads are smooth; fresh line stiping on the edges and center lines are great but not always evident.

Presque Isle RIver

Presque Isle RIver

Presque Isle River

Presque Isle River

At the western end of the park and mountains, Presque Isle River forms several falls just before dumping its water into Lake Superior. The hike to the falls required us to take hundreds of stairs along boardwalks providing varying views of the falls and rapids. The swirling water creates several areas of smooth, circular potholes in the rock. Part of the creekbed is layered with rocks laid down when ancient oceans covered the area.

Lake Superior

Lake Superior


Lunch was in Ironwood MI at a local restaurant. Nothing fancy but good food and dessert. Ironwood and Hurley WI share the border of this combined old lumber and mining area. I told Chris of brief comments I had heard over the years of Hurley’s legendary status as a red light and saloon town. The town appears to be re-inventing itself but the number of bars still seems disproportionately high.

Our trip through Wisconsin was on two lane back roads, state and county primarily. We did not hit a four lane road of any size until I-94 at Baldwin. Forests and lakes were periodically interrupted by small towns. While we have been in Wisconsin frequently, this part of the state was new to us.

Home now, almost 4000 miles in this 2.5 week trip. A memorable trip involving family, historic moments, scenery, and history.

Ed and Chris September 13 7 AM

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2013, Trip Seven, September 11, The Sarahs’ Wedding and UP of Michigan

Baraga, MI Wednesday, September 11

Sunrise from our room at La Rose Wellness Retreat

Sunrise from our room at La Rose Wellness Retreat

Wednesday was our day to explore the Keweenaw National Park and Peninsula in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. The Keweenaw Peninsula is a peninsula jutting out into Lake Superior as part of the total Upper Peninsula of Michigan. (How many times can I get the word peninsula into one sentence?) It is maybe half way between Duluth and Sault Ste. Marie.

Exhibit area at Keweenaw National Park visitor center

Exhibit area at Keweenaw National Park visitor center


The K.P. is home to most of the mineral resources of Michigan. It was the site of the first mineral rush in the 1840s, predating the gold rush in CA. Here the mineral was copper. Huge quantities have been hauled out of the area over the years. Cheaper supplies in the west and other countries have caused all of the major mines here to close down.

Sample of copper  ore at Copperworld Mining Museum

Sample of copper ore at Copperworld Mining Museum

As we saw yesterday, iron ore was a second major mineral extracted from the ground. Copper was located more in the northern part of the KP, iron further south in the main art of the UP, closer to the WI border.

The national park was established in 1992 and in 2011 opened a new visitor center in Calumet. Like several other new national parks, this one does not own vast acreage but works with other organizations to coordinate the historical heritage of the area. In this case, it is copper, how copper mining developed the area, and the ethnic and social heritage were changed.

Arch from Italian Hall. Destruction of building began conservation effort of buildings.

Arch from Italian Hall. Destruction of building began conservation effort of buildings.

Like most mining operations, particularly in the 1800s and early 1900s, major damage was done to the area. Forests were stripped, waste piles left uncovered, mines abandoned, mine leachate fouling the water. The area is still working to clean up the residue.

Having visited a copper mine in British Columbia in August, we passed on taking another mine tour. Instead we focused on the area itself. The visitor center has wonderful exhibits and videos on life in the KP. Along with a copper museum, we were educated on copper mining and life in a mining community.

The major mining company was a benevolent despot. Owned by Boston financiers, it provided health services, schools, good homes, etc. It also vociferously opposed unions, increased pay, shortened hours, etc. It faced competition from out west as the mines here had to dig deeper to mine the copper ore.

Eagle River falls along Lake Superior coast

Eagle River falls along Lake Superior coast

Strikes in 1913 divided the community and a major catastrophe occurred on Christmas Eve while the strike was still ongoing. At a Christmas Eve party sponsored by the union for families, someone yelled “Fire”. There was no fire but 73 people, mainly children, died in the rush to exit the building.

Eventually the strike was resolved but the slow process of mine closings and economic decay had begun. Immigrants from many countries had moved here for jobs, they began to move to other areas even as the ethnic diversity enriched the area. Today tourism is the main economic engine. The natural beauty of the area continues to draw people. As time heals or hides the environmental damage, the beauty increases. As one statement said about living here and jobs, “If you want to live in the UP, that is your career.” You do what is necessary to obtain sufficient income to live here.

Along Brockway Mountain Drive by Copper  Harbor

Along Brockway Mountain Drive by Copper Harbor

Our journey continued through small towns that had once been bustling. We saw three more waterfalls. One was of a nice size.

We stopped at a monastery along the coast to buy cookies and jam and then ate the cookies at a rest stop right on the shoreline.

Copper Harbor

Copper Harbor

The Brockway Mountain Drive in Copper Harbor provided a great view of the lake from up high. At the major overlook there, we ran into a couple from Farmington, MN that we had talked to several times previously. We are traveling with differing timetables but by coincidence have crossed paths at remote locations.

It was an enjoyable day. Tomorrow we head for home via the Porcupine Mountains and then Wisconsin.

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2013, Trip Seven, September 8, The Sarahs’ Wedding and the UP of Michigan

Sunday, September 8 Grand Marais, Michigan

Sunday was a glorious day after the clouds of Saturday and the threatened rain for the rest of the week. Sunny with highs in the low 70s and we enjoyed every minute of it. Our plan was to travel along the coastal area via scenic byways, stopping at light houses and waterfalls.

View from Mission Hill overlook towards Whitefish Bay on Lake Superior

View from Mission Hill overlook towards Whitefish Bay on Lake Superior

Our first stop was Mission Hill Overlook, up a steep, one lane road to the top of the bluffs on the south shore of Whitefish Bay of Lake Superior. Lake Superior’s shipping channel narrows here as ships get ready to enter St. Mary’s River. There are also shoals and rocks and that combination, along with Superior’s infamous storms has made this section of the lake the most treacherous for ships.

Point  Iroquis  Lighthouse

Point Iroquis Lighthouse

The coast is studded with lighthouses and old life saving stations. We found out that the Life Saving Service pre-dated the Coast Guard and the men of the LSS performed heroic tasks to rescue crews and passengers during the late 1800s. Special boats and equipment were designed just for this task.

Stones on the shore of Lake Superior

Shores of Lake Superior


Point Iroquis lighthouse was open and we climbed the tower, visited the exhibits and talked to the docent who provided knowledge of the lighthouse. We also questioned him about a brief mention we had read about cranberry bogs in the area. He told us where to find them, but our eyes must have been closed as were driving since we never spotted the bogs.

Whitefish  Point Light house

Whitefish Point Light house


Whitefish Point has a shipwreck museum and a lighthouse. The film here focuses on the Edmund Fitzgerald sinking in 1975 (remember the Gordon Lightfoot song?) The ship sank not far from here but in Canadian waters. Even today there is no firm answer as to the cause. The bell has been recovered but the crew remains lost in the depths.

Bell from Edmund Fitzgerald

Bell from Edmund Fitzgerald

The largest waterfall east of the Mississippi after Niagara Falls was our next stop. We had never even heard of it before. Like the North Shore of Minnesota, numerous waterfalls flow from rivers into Lake Superior but the vast majority are less than 20 feet tall. Tahquamenon is not tall either but its flow is great across a wide falls. There are several shorter falls in a cascade and farther upstream is the upper falls. similar to several North Shore falls, the water is copper-colored due to tannicic acid.

Lower falls

Lower falls

The falls are part of a recent state park created by a donation of land from a lumber company owner who wanted the falls to remain visible to the public. Evidently one criteria was that his family could retain a portion of the land since they have constructed a microbrewery inside the park. While we did not try the beer, the beef pasty here was even better than our first one in St. Ignace. The pastry crust was much lighter and we used the side of beef gravy to make it more like a pot pie.

Upper  falls

Upper falls

Our evening lodging is in the town of Grand Marais-this one is smaller and less of a tourist destination than the MN version. Roads are less plentiful and we had been advised twice (once by our Evergreen host and once by the docent at Point Iroquis) to take the long way to Grand Marais as the gravel, coast road would be torturous on our car. Having two calls to AAA already this year made us decide this was advice worth following. The only hassle on the longer route was that caused by the usual motorcycle behavior of speeding in packs.

At Lake Superior

At Lake Superior

At  Lake Superior

At Lake Superior

We finished up the evening with another viewing of the sunset.

Monday is our 41st anniversary and we have decided to only spend one night here. The motel is clean but not quite like the Internet pictures so we are moving on to a place in Munising. Although as we booked the new room we realized why we chose this place, the hotels in Munising and Marquette are over-priced. They are 30-50% higher than most places we have stayed, priced more like a big city. Oh, well, such is life.

Ed and Chris Monday, September 9

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