Posts Tagged With: Turnagain Arm

2019 Trip 5: Alaska: Sept. 7-8

Lake Hood Floatplane Base, Anchorage

Anchorage, AK. Sunday September 8

Saturday was the first day of consistent rain since we began this trip three weeks ago. Luckily Seward had a few options for indoor activities. The Alaska Sealife Center is basically an aquarium although one with a heavy research and conservation emphasis. The admission is pricey at $30 per person but again the Alaska Tour Saver Book came in handy with a buy one, get one coupon.

Alaska Sealife Center in Seward

Besides keeping us dry, the Sealife Center gave us an opportunity to closely observe some of the animals we have been seeing. The puffins, for instance, were much cuter when seen from a close distance. Although the fish were ugly, the underwater creatures like jellyfish, anemones, etc. are always cute and surprising.

Educating the visitor to climate change and pollution’s impact was a consistent, secondary theme presented by the Sealife Center. Given the importance of the Alaskan fisheries to the production of seafood supplies, the theme is timely. It has taken a while for the world to understand sustainable fishing, now it has to more fully practice it.

Two of the many murals in Seward Alaska

During our time in Seward, we had the occasion to enjoy the many murals painted on the walls of buildings. Seward has been proclaimed the mural capital of Alaska, with about thirty murals scattered around the community. Local artists paint local scenes and topics. I will admit some of our photos came while driving from place to place during rainy Saturday rather than walking all over town to observe them. Seward is not the first town we have visited using murals to make a statement about local history and pride, but whenever it is done, we have enjoyed it.

A second indoor stop was at the Seward Community Library and Museum. The museum is small but was a visual insight into life in early Alaska. Seward’s ice free port, Resurrection Bay is over 900 feet deep, had long been its claim to fame for fishing and shipping. The 1964 earthquake changed that into tourism as the destruction by the earthquake and tsunami wrecked the piers and railroad line. The lengthy rebuilding process and less severe destruction in Anchorage switched the shipping function to Anchorage harbor and to Anchorage’s airports.

Statue in Seward honoring the Iditarod Trail, dog and man

The library/museum hosts two half hour films daily which we viewed. The first recaps the severity and impact of the earthquake. The second discusses the Iditarod National Historic Trail. Not to be confused with the Iditarod race, the Iditarod Trail was a dog sled route that predated the railroad and provided a means of travel for the early gold rush. The almost 1,200 mile trail began in Seward and ended in Nome, utilizing many trails used by indigenous peoples. Later supplanted by the railroad and then highways, the Iditarod Trail was an important supply route in the early days of Alaska. It has been recognized as one of the first historic trails in the U.S. by the Bureau of Land Management.

Fall in Alaska

Fall in Alaska

After the videos, we left Seward for our last Alaskan destination, Anchorage. We will be here until Tuesday morning when we fly to Seattle. Sunday morning’s church service had another Minnesota connection as we met a woman who had recently been back there to visit family and had made sure she took in the Minnesota State Fair. It was a low-key day, still a bit drizzly. We walked along Earthquake Park, built around a portion of town that actually slid into Cook Inlet during the 1964 earthquake. The signs here confirmed the earthquake impact but that Anchorage was spared the tsunami that destroyed so much of Valdez and Seward.

Fixed wheel plane using road to reach runway at Lake Hood Floatplane base

The highlight of the day was time spent at Lake Hood Floatplane Base. This is the largest seaplane base in the world with over 2,000 take-offs daily. There is a runway for fixed wheel planes also so we were constantly turning our heads to determine if the sound of another plane’s engine came from the land runway, the water runway, or the skies. Besides large closed hangers, open storage of planes occurred at large marina like locations but also stacked alongside the roadway. Frequently a small building would be built alongside the planes along the roadway. Signs warn you to yield to planes on the road which we thought was cute until we actually observed a plane warm up and head down the road to the land runway.

Anchorage Alaska skyline

Ed and Chris Monday September 9 4 AM

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2019 Trip 5: Alaska: September 1

Kenai Lake at Cooper Landing, AK

COOPER LANDING FINALLY. Sunday September 1

Cooper Landing, population 286, lodging for this evening. We only had to wait about 15 minutes for the pilot car to lead us on the highway. Rain yesterday and cooler temperatures appear to have brought down the fire threat. Most of the actual burnt areas are west and north of here in the forest. Cooper Landing is still on “set” status; that is, be set to depart if the fire changes dramatically.

Driving to Cooper Landing along the end of Turnagain Arm

We left Anchorage around 9 AM. The rain cleared the skies a bit and we were able to view the southern shores of Turnagain Arm for the first time. Mountain peaks and valleys surrounded us as we drove past the Whittier turn-off onto new road. Cooper Landing came into view as we crossed the Kenai Lake and River with perhaps a dozen businesses. We drove past the rafting company that had to cancel our Saturday evening rafting adventure.

Can you spot Ed having dessert at the Kingfisher Restaurant?

The Kenai Princess Lodge is closed to overnight guests, not sure where Princess Cruises is housing the people who were scheduled to stay there. The Princess Lodge is open for meals, apparently most of their business is for fire fighters. We plan to patronize a small, local restaurant for dinner called the Kingfisher. It is on Kenai Lake and when fire fighting planes load up with water, they do so from Kenai Lake. Evidently it takes about 12 seconds for the plane to fully load as it scoops water from the lake. We are staying at The Hutch, a small B and B here in Cooper Landing.

Paper plate ID, water pumping readiness for fire fighters, Thank you sign

A short walk took us to the outlet where Kenai River runs out of Kenai Lake. With mountains,of course, in the background, it made for a great picture of Alaska. The firefighters have pre-planned their fire stoppage efforts. A pump, hoses, and tank lined each side of the river. Homes and business have temporary identification markers posted on paper plates at the front of each property. Signs are frequent to thank the firefighters for their efforts.

Along one of the walks

Driving back roads near Cooper Landing

We went for a few short walks. The scenery is beautiful. Every now and then the sun would peak out, then the clouds, wind, and a few drizzles show up.

Kenai Lake at Cooper Landing

Ed and Chris. Cooper Landing. September 1. 8 PM

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2019 Trip 5: Alaska: August 28

A view along Turnagain Arm, between Anchorage and Whittier. Left side, south, shows evidence of smoke from the Swan Lake Fire on the Kenai Peninsula

Girdwood, Alaska. Wednesday August 28

Smoke and fire were major concerns today. We left Talkeetna to drive to Girdwood, east of Anchorage. We plan to stay here in Girdwood for two nights. The drive here continued on the Parks Highway, along a 20 mile stretch of road that has been plagued by wild fires. Over the past week, travelers were only allowed to go in one direction at a time, led by a pilot car, much as you might encounter in some construction zones. Emergency firefighting crews had first priority over the travel lanes. Delays of several hours had been common. The Alaska Railroad had canceled some of their runs since the fires were even closer to their tracks.

Fire view along Parks Highway between Talkeetna and Willow Alaska

Luckily the roadway just opened to full two lane traffic, although at reduced speeds. We past numerous stretches of burnt forest. Smoke stench was still prevalent. No structures that we could see had burnt, though. Many properties had signs thanking firefighters.

We spent an hour this evening listening to a local radio station live broadcast a community meeting in Cooper Landing, AK where we planned to spend Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights. Our lodging host said “No problem, come on down.” This town on the Kenai Peninsula south of Anchorage was likely to be the area in which we hiked the most. The topic of the community meeting was the Swan Lake Fire, a blaze that has been burning for 84 days north and west of Cooper Landing. It is the largest fire in the U.S. So far it has burnt 160,000 acres. (see this video from Accu Weather: https://www.accuweather.com/en/weather-news/apocalyptic-footage-shows-cars-narrowly-avoiding-flames-from-massive-alaska-wildfire/70009192) For most of that time it had not been threatening more developed areas.

Recently, the Sterling Highway through Cooper Landing over to Homer has been closed off and on; when open, it usually has a pilot car leading traffic one-way for a 20 mile stretch from Cooper Landing west towards Soldotna and Homer. We have to decide if we seek alternate lodging and forego one, two, or three of the expeditions we have reserved. At the moment, we are leaning to making different arrangements. You will find out the end result as it happens.

The Turnagain Arm is a body of water off Cook Inlet. The British Captain James Cook-he of fame for being a major European explorer to visit and map much of the Pacific Ocean. During his voyage to Alaska looking for the Northwest Passage, he came up the now-named Cook Inlet and turned right. That right turn led to a dead end and so he had to turn again to reverse his travel. Thus this body of water was named. It is ringed by mountains, forests and glaciers. It was the site of several gold strikes in the early 1900s.

The Turnagain Arm drive is rated as one of the most scenic in the country. The Seward Highway as it is called, is the only road route to the Kenai Peninsula, home to hiking, glaciers, boat tours, and great fishing. It is difficult for us to comment on its scenic beauty; most of it, particularly the southern side across the water from the road, was obscured by smoke from the Swan Lake fire.

Beluga whale in Turnagain Arm

Smoke did not make the drive uneventful though. At Beluga Point, we pulled over and watched Beluga whales diving for food. Belugas hunt for other fish to eat in shallow waters where killer whales have difficulty maneuvering. We could see several belugas, their white color in sharp contrast to the gray water as they dove and re-surfaced over and over again. Our pictures show them although not really close up. We have been “out-camera’d“ throughout this trip by the visitors with huge spotting scopes and zoom SLR cameras.

Mountain goats in Chugach State Park along the Seward Highway

Still at Beluga Point, we simply turned around and up on the mountains a group of about 25 mountain goats were walking single file along a narrow path. There was less smoke on the northern mountains. The goats stood out clearly with their white against the dark rocks.

McHugh Falls, another stop along the Seward Highway

The Chugach State Forest and Chugach State Park cover a large swath of land from Anchorage over east to past Valdez and south as far as Seward. We will be making numerous stops in these two during the remaining two weeks in Alaska. Beluga Point was just one of several stops today. We had lunch at the Turnagain Armpit Bar B-Q in Indian, AK. Great food.

A view of Alyeska Resort

Our lodging tonight is at Alyeska Resort, one of our splurges. It is a resort close to Anchorage with winter skiing and summer mountain hiking and biking. We chose it since it is very close to Whittier, home to one of our boat rides, and the lodging in Whittier appeared to be the pits.

Views from Alyeska Resort, non-smoke obscured

We rode the tram up the mountain and obtained great views of the smoke on the other side of the water. Our host at Armpit Bar BQ indicated today was a good day, the wind was keeping the smoke on the south side. Our planned hike was cut short by swarms of “no-see umm”. The small gnats were so irritating we headed back down again.

Thursday we drive to Whittier. Several aspects of that day should be interesting and fire free.

Smoke obscuring the view of Turnagain Arm as seen from top of tram ride at Alyeska Resort in GIrdwood

Ed and Chris. Thursday August 29 4:30 AM

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