Posts Tagged With: travel

2014 Trip One Ely Feb. 27th

Thursday, Feb 27, 2014 Ely MN

Oh a glorious day. Not to say there weren’t a few bumps-literally-along the way though. Not a lot of pix. our job today was to: stay on the sled, ride the brake as needed, and stay warm. With the camera tucked away, with stops that were brief and of uncertain length, and with temps well below zero, I wasn’t about to unbundle, get cold, and risk losing the dogs just for a picture. But we have a few.

The day began with feeding the dogs and cleaning up poop in the kennel area. This was at 7:30 AM so obviously we were up before that and getting bundled up. They have over 60 running dogs plus a few retired and 6 pups that aren’t ready for anything other than being adorable.

Colin and Greg made breakfast: sausage, oatmeal, hash brown potatoes, granola and yogurt, and “eggs in a basket” (fried eggs cooked inside a cut out slice of toast). We fired up our internal engines with plenty of food before having our inside class on dogsledding.

Colin ran the class while Greg headed down to the kennel to get the teams assembled. We met Susan Schurke, one of the owners, during breakfast and she gave some tips as well as tidbits into the internal operations.

The day was less windy and sunnier than the forecast had led us to expect-a very positive beginning to our journey. I believe the high today was about -5, a nice increase from the -25 during the night. Tonight is supposed to be back to -27.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

All of us were able to keep pretty warm, the only cold period was in the early afternoon, maybe around 1 pm, when our 3 teams joined up with 4 other teams and that slowed us down as, of course from my perspective, they were not quite as good as we were. There were numerous moments of waiting until the teams ahead were able to break the trail and keep going.

Last week’s blizzard blew snow over most of the trails and they had to be broken or re-groomed. Today was the first non-windy day so that was part of the challenge. Chris and I were in sled two; sled one, the women from WI, had the joy, challenge, and reward of being the leaders much of the time.

We did not leave the lodge until about 10:30. We were out until after two pm for the first run. We started riding across much of the lake, the wind being noticeable but bearable. We took some trails into the woods. The forest trails are narrower, hilly, and fraught with natural obstacles like trees. Going through the forest must be somewhat liking driving a semi. The cab (dogs) make turns close easily. The trailer (sled with Chris and Ed) don’t turn as tight and sometimes get stuck on, or bump into,tree trunks.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and I each only fell off once. Both times were when we were helping the dogs around tight corners. Luckily each time the other one was still on the sled and able to stop the dogs. Oh yes, dog sledding is not just riding and having a great time.

Well, we did have a great time but there is a lot of exertion involved. You are standing, keeping your balance on running boards, reaching back to step on the brake as needed, helping to push the sled around corners and up hills.

Braking is a challenge. These dogs love to run. You can not run into the team in front. You have to slow them on downgrades. Light braking is fine on low hills. Jumpiing up and down on the brake (a smaller platform behind the running board) to dig into the snow is necessary even as you firmly tell the dogs WHOA!.

When you come to a temporary halt, the dogs are straining to go forward. They are howling to the sky. They are arguing/nipping/biting at their neighbor to establish who is the alpha female or male.

Chris, Ed, Isis  Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

Chris, Ed, Isis Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

The dogs are not perfect. Today Colin led the way most of the time on cross country skis. Sometimes the lead team wanted to go another way, or got slightly off the track and stuck in deep snow, or there was a particularly steep hill or bump that had to be negotiated carefully. Colin usually got to provide assistance.

We came back to our lodge around 2 pm. We shared our lodge with the other four teams for lunch-soup,salad, stromboli, etc. We left for our second ride around 3;45. This time the entire ride was just our three sleds and Colin. Greg got pulled away for other lodge duties. We missed him and kept Colin extremely busy working out tangles and miscreant sled dogs.

We pulled into the kennel before six, unharnessed the dogs and fed them. We were all extremely tired but felt happy, proud and reasonably warm. Before warming up, I started our car. So far, it is okay.

Dinner was chicken, peas and carrots, salad, and wild rice pilaf. Many a toast was raised to our exploits and remembrances of the day. Later Greg showed us some You Tube videos of his previous sled dog teams pulling him at a much faster clip than we attained today.

At 9 pm, we went out to observe the night sky and look for the Northern lights. The stars were numerous and bright. The northern lights were faint to the human eye. Greg’s camera is better than mine and tomorrow I hope to show you his pictures. I doubt that I will get up around midnight to view the northern lights again. They are supposed to be more vivid at that time.

Okay, on to bed and muscle recuperation.

Chris and Ed 10:45 pm

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2013 Trip Nine, Dec. 27, Christmas in Santa Fe, New Year’s in Flagstaff

Ramah,NM Dec. 27th Friday

What a glorious traveling day! People, weather, sites, hikes, dinner and lodging.

Traveling along I-40 in western New Mexico

Traveling along I-40 in western New Mexico

The weather starts cool, in the 20s but rises to the mid 40s. Sunny, blue skies with no clouds. Beautiful for taking hikes. We took multiple, shorter hikes so we can experience various landscapes. The drive west from Albuquerque along I-40 was a new one for us. High desert plains, mesas nearby and mountains farther in the background.

Grants has experienced boom and bust cycles. Booms were in the late 1800s from railroading, around 1900s from lumbering, in the 1930 from carrot and vegetable growing after a dam was constructed, in the 1950s from uranium mining and now from tourists. Each boom was short lived; they hope the tourist era lasts longer.

Mt Taylor in the background

Mt Taylor in the background

In Grants, NM the Bureau of Land Management, the National Park Service, and the Forestry Department have a joint visitor center. Very well done, multiple video options, great displays, bookstore, and helpful staff. From here, we adjusted our schedule slightly and visited several sites in the El Malpais National Monument area.

Sandstone Bluffs

Sandstone Bluffs

In this area of north central New Mexico, lava flows from historic volcanoes meet great sandstone ridges formed eons ago. There used to be great sand dunes here, similar they say, to the Sahara Desert. Over periods of time, the sand was compressed into sandstone. We visited several parts of the El Malpais Conservation Area and National Monument, heading south from I-40.

Chain of Craters

Chain of Craters

The first area was the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook. The view from the overlook allowed us to see across the valley to the Chain of Craters, see the lava flow down below, and Mount Taylor (11,301 feet above sea level) to the north. The sandstone formations have eroded over time, creating numerous and varied shapes.

La Ventana Arch

La Ventana Arch

Our second stop was at La Ventana Natural Arch. This arch is larger than others we have seen so far. At the arch, we met a woman from Aurora CO who discussed her trips, including trips down the same portion of the Grand Canyon that Chris’ brother Lou undertook earlier this year and hiked down to the Grand Canyon and spent several nights there. Oh yes, she appeared to be 15-20 years older than us.

La Ventana Arch

La Ventana Arch

Our third stop was at the Narrows where the sandstone ridges come closest to the lava flows. We hiked along the top of the ridge. The trail here was sandy as the weather and wear erode the sandstone back into the sand it started as millions of years ago.

The Narrows

The Narrows

Our fourth walk was at the Lava Flows where we hiked out onto the most recent lava flows from McCarty’s Crater. This hike was our shortest. The trail is only marked by lava stone cairns and the rock is extremely sharp and hard on the bottom of shoes.

Lava formations

Lava formations

Because the Chain of Craters mountains go north to south, we had to re-trace our path and go back north to visit the rest of El Malpais National Monument and to reach our lodging for the night. On the way back, we stopped at the Bureau of Land Management ranger station and talk to a park volunteer. While the gentleman lives in Albuquerque, he is from Kenosha WI. We mentioned that we knew a woman who was from Kenosha and her parents had owned Mullen’s Store there. He recognized the store name from his childhood.

The fifth hike was at El Calderon area of the National Monument. To reach this portion, we travel one of NM’s scenic highways, Route 53. The trees start to change from the short, shrub like pinon trees to larger pine trees. We hiked along the trail to the double sink holes. These two sink holes are about 80 feet deep so we stayed safely back from the edge. The shadows were growing long so the photos may not demonstrate the depth properly.

El Calderon sinkhole

El Calderon sinkhole

As we headed west to our evening lodging, we stopped at the El Malpais visitor center. The park ranger was from the near by town of San Rafael and we discussed the local town and how much he enjoys his position.

Our lodging this evening is at the El Morro RV Camp and Cabins which also runs the Ancient Way Cafe. (El Morro National Monument is one of tomorrow’s stops.) Our cabin is a small log cabin in the middle of nowhere. Even my Verizon hot spot is not getting good reception.

I had hoped to get a nice sunset shot in this area but the trees and ridges precluded that. I did have an opportunity to chat with a local gentlemen who proceeded to tell me his life story.

Dinner was at the Ancient Way Cafe. The crew here has been working together for over 5 years. Late dinner is only Friday and Saturday night, otherwise they close at 5 pm. The meal was pork loin roast, broccoli and mushrooms, sweet potato casserole (with pumpkin and tapioca, yummy!) and salad with home-made dressings. A very nice and surprising touch. A small location, only 5 tables. Chris sat the manager down and we talked to him and the chef. Plus, they had a harpist playing during dinner.

A very nice day.

Ed and Chris 8 AM Dec. 28th due to slow loading of pictures
Last two pictures added Dec. 28th at 8 PM

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2013, Trip Nine, Dec. 16, Christmas in Santa Fe and New Year’s in Flagstaff

Oklahoma City, Monday Dec. 16

Along Interstate 35 in Kansas and Oklahoma, we saw numerous raptors, (black with white bellies) individually, perched in trees and on fence posts. We thought, oh, maybe these are jayhawks. But no, Wikipedia says jayhawks is a term assigned, for unknown reasons, to a band of outlaws going back to the Kansas-Missouri conflicts around the Civil War. Eventually it lost some of its negative connotations and now is the mascot name for the Kansas state university teams. So, since we are not birders, we have no idea which birds we were constantly seeing.

Another minor tidbit. Knute Rockne, the famous Notre Dame coach of the 1920s era, is memorialized at a rest stop along the Kansas Turnpike. We thought, wrongly again, that he must have been born in Kansas. Instead, he died in 1931 in an airplane crash a few miles from the rest stop. Icing on the wings caused the crash and lead to airplane innovations to reduce the issue in the future.

Rockne was a Norwegian immigrant to America who worked to gain enough money to go to Notre Dame. He began school there at age 22, was a football star and chemistry major, and later came back to coach. He is credited with popularizing the shift and the forward pass in football and still has the winningest percentage of any Division I college football coach.

We were pleasantly surprised to find a Dunkin Donut at the rest stop. We just had to pop in and have a donut to keep them in business for any return trip we make along this route.
In Oklahoma City, we spent two hours at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum. (I wonder what one must do to include the term “National” in a museum title?) Started back in 1955, it now has over 200,000 square feet of display space.

End of the Trail sculpture by James Earle Fraser at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum

End of the Trail sculpture by James Earle Fraser at the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum

They have a replica of a frontier town with full size buildings. The museum has special exhibits, currently they were displaying art from members of the Cowboy Artists of America and the Traditional Cowboy Arts Association. Boy, the prices of some of the items exceeded our annual budget. One saddle was already sold for $74,000. Numerous paintings were over $10,000 and many of them sold. I thought maybe I was in Santa Fe, given the prices.

Entrance to rodeo display at National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum

Entrance to rodeo display at National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum

The museum collection includes numerous items from Frederic Remington, Charles R. Russell, Albert Bierstadt and other early American artists. Contemporary painters have work displayed, some of the figures in the paintings just leap out and seem to be right in the room with you. The landscapes of the West are to die for.

Other display areas include firearms, rodeo, western movies, Native American crafts, and several halls of fame. Two hours were not sufficient to see everything, we did pretty much skip the firearms section completely.

Moon rise over parking lot Oklahoma City

Moon rise over parking lot
Oklahoma City

Our final experience was with the Oklahoma toll roads. We had to take one to reach our hotel. Exact change only. $1.15 which they tell you when it is too late to exit the road. BUT, at the cash payment booth the toll road has installed a $1 and $5 bill changer so you can get coins to pay the toll. They have an “EZ Pass” like system but evidently it does not have reciprocity with other states like Kansas, Texas, EZ Pass, etc. But MN is no better, their local program is unique to MN also. So much for encouraging travelers. Lets just heavily tax the hotel room rates and forget about any services for visitors. (So much for the rant and rage.)

Ed and Chris 10 pm.

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 30, The Ozarks

Wednesday, Oct 30, Bella Vista, Arkansas

Fall colors were at the peak we have seen so far from Minnesota to Arkansas. But the day was foggy, misty, sprinkling and pouring rain so the good pix are few and far between. The weather also changed our plans a bit.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

We drove from Mountain View to Bella Vista via Eureka Springs. We had planned to spend some time exploring Eureka Springs; instead we only had lunch there, saw a video of the town’s history, and researched the availability of going on a van tour next week. We figure we will have time to spare in Branson and Eureka Springs is only an hour’s drive from Branson.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

The drive from Mountain View took us back through Searcy County, home of Leslie-which was mentioned in a prior blog. A brochure we had picked up revealed that Searcy County, per the 2010 census, had 8200 people. It also had 39 churches, none of them Jewish, Catholic, Mormon, or Muslim. That is about 200 people per church.

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

When we were at the Folk Art Center, the cooperage shop had an article about Leslie and how it was home in the early 1900s to the largest barrel making factory in America. When we went through the town, we did see a stave making factory. The population of Leslie went from about 1500 people in 1910 to 450 souls now.

So too Eureka Springs. It grew dramatically due to the springs found there and the claim that the springs had medicinal value. In 1879, the town grew from almost nothing to 10,000 people in less than 12 months. It became the fourth largest city in Arkansas at the time. Now the population is just over 2,100 and focuses on tourists. The rise and change of many small towns has been an interesting aspect of our trips.

There was a Road Scholar tour group of about 70 people from Houston staying at Mountain View also. They are probably learning more details than we did since there were seminars held for them. We have received their literature frequently. For now, we plan to continue on our own, setting our own pace and picking our own locations to stop.

The road to Bella Vista continued our pattern of hilly,curvy, two lane roads. Travel takes a while longer but with the fall colors it was enjoyable, even with the rain. After Eureka Springs we stopped at the Pea Ridge National
Military Park.

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Pea Ridge was the crucial Civil War battle that kept Missouri in the Union. As we learned at the Missouri State Capital, Missouri was a very divided state. It was a slave state that did not secede but was riven by fierce and divided loyalties with many battles and skirmishes during the Civil War.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

10,000 Union troops were chasing 16,000 Confederate troops-which included two regiments of Cherokee Indians. The Union troops included the largest percentage in any battle of non-English speaking soldiers, new immigrants to Missouri from Germany. When we were in Hermannn, MO, the tours there discussed how the Germans came here for the opportunity of freedom and were fierce defenders of the Union cause.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Several factors turned the battle for the Union. Early on, the two Confederate generals leading one arm of the Confederates were killed and the leaderless soldiers were without direction and did not participate in the battle. The Confederate primary general made a bold move to out flank the Union. Unfortunately his men had to march for three days to the desired location. They ended up arriving late and tired to the battle and ran low on ammunition because the supplies trailed too far behind the main column. The Union victory helped open the Mississippi River and allowed the Union to split the Confederacy in two. Most of the troops here moved onto battles east of the Mississippi for the duration of the war.

Given the weather, we did not walk the trails, but observed the exhibits, saw the movie, and drove around the battlefields.

We spent the night in Bella Vista with family of friends in the Twin Cities. Bella Vista is a town of 25,000 that has mushroomed in the last 20 years as a suburb of Bentonville. Previously more of a retirement community, it is experiencing the arrival of families and younger couples. We had dinner with our hosts at a long time restaurant in Rogers (a near by town), the Monte Ne Inn, with a great family style chicken dinner.

Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk Oct. 31 7 pm

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2013, Trip Seven, September 4, The Sarahs’ Wedding and UP of Michigan

Traverse City, MI Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Well, most of the day was spent playing in the sand. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is about 25 miles west of Traverse City and was the main reason we decided to visit this section of Michigan before traveling north to the Upper Peninsula. Sleeping Bear is on the east coast of Lake Michigan. Traverse City is located at the lower end of Grand Traverse Bay which juts down into the state of Michigan from the Lake. (Go look at a map.)

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Sleeping Bear Dunes was voted the #1 Most Beautiful Place in America in a competition in 2011 held by ABC-TV’s Good Morning America show. The national lakeshoe is very nice but I would not place it number one. I am more partial to western U.S. views.

I wonder how many places are the “most” something. When Lake Michigan is written about here, they frequently mention that it is the largest lake entirely in the U.S.; dropping Lake Superior since it is partially in Canada.

Until mid afternoon the day was cloudy, cool and breezy. This was advantageous as our first hike of the day was climbing up a 110 foot sand dune. The sand here is very fine, rivaling the best we have seen at Florida beaches. The wind is normally from the northwest and this evidently contributes to the sand dune formation.

Dune Hill Climb, 2nd phase

Dune Hill Climb, 2nd phase

Dune Hill Climb, phase one

Dune Hill Climb, phase one

In a few places we found rocks of varying colors but nothing as smooth as Lake Superior agates. Of course, The Minnesota shore of Lake Superior does not really have sand beaches and the water is always cold. Chris’ forays into the water found the water cool, but much warmer than Superior.

Running down the 110 foot dune was fun and easy. Going up was slow and challenging on the calf muscles. The dune climb is one of the major destinations within the national lakeshore. Families, couples (young and old), jocks, etc all were giving it their best effort. Most made it up, some continuing on to the next level of dunes which had a less intensive grade. Unfortunately, the shore is still quite a hike even after reaching the second set of dunes so we put off the beach until later in the day.

Glen Haven cannery

Glen Haven cannery

The  Beach at Glen Haven

The Beach at Glen Haven

Our second stop was at Glen Haven Historic Village. This locale developed due to lumbering and shipping. Off shore are two islands, North and South Manitou, which have sheltered and created the Manitou Passage on Lake Michigan. The Passage was used by ships in the 1800s to avoid the storms on Lake Michigan. However, shoals and rocks also contributed to making the Passage hazardous. Numerous light houses and rescue stations were located along the shore. Glen Haven was one of those sites.

Glen Haven was a port to ship local lumber. It later transformed into a fruit and cannery area. Times change and now it is just historic and recreated. The beach is part of Sleeping Bear Bay and sheltered by Sleeping Bear Point. You can still see the wooden piers used to support a long dock which train cars used to bring lumber and fruit out to ships.

Cottonwood Trail

Cottonwood Trail

Cottonwood Trail

Cottonwood Trail

Our third stop was the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. This 7.4 mile road goes through woods and along dunes. A dozen stops exist to access or view parts of the lakeshore. We took the Cottonwood Trail, a 1.5 mile hike up, down, and along the sand dunes that worked those calf muscles some more. Another stop was high along the bluffs, providing a view along the lake.

By now the afternoon was marching along. We stopped at the Maritime Museum that discussed the rescue stations work. We went off road on some back country dirt roads looking for a higher overlook of the lake. (Which we found but it was not as dramatic as I had hoped.)

Beach shot

Beach shot

We finished up by driving the rest of the shoreline road that spans the peninsula created by Grand Traverse Bay. The state of Michigan wanted $8 to let us enter for a brief look at a lighthouse. It was after 5 pm and we decided we would probably be seeing enough lighthouses during this trip and past that opportunity by. We did stop for ice cream in a small town along the way though. And we passed the 45th parallel, the halfway point between the North Pole and the Equator.

We had dinner at Grand Traverse Pie Company. Think of a blend of Panera and Bakers Square. The pies were very good although the choices were more limited than Bakers Square. As we returned to the Hampton Inn, the desk clerk was explaining to a couple that he was booked up for the next three nights. (We went out for a walk then to the beach across the street from the hotel for the sunset and when we returned he was saying the same thing to another couple that had not made advance reservations and were looking for lodging at the last minute.)

Grand Traverse Bay sunset across hotel

Grand Traverse Bay sunset across hotel

Ed and Chris Wednesday September 4 10:30 pm

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