Posts Tagged With: Trail of tears

2018 Trip 3: March 27: KY and TN

Spencer TN. March 27

Rhea County Tennessee courtroom, site of the Scopes Monkey Trial of 1925

We woke up a little chilly this morning. During the night our room’s HVAC decided to not turn on the heat and to keep blowing cool air out constantly. At least the shower water was warm. At the front desk we explained our issue and were told maintenance would address it. Breakfast was a nice buffet and our server was chatty. She informed us, we had not known this previously, that this Sunday was the last day the restaurant and our lodging units would be open. The facility, excluding the campgrounds, cabins, golf course, etc. was to be destroyed and replaced with a new complex with less rooms and twice the nightly rate. Over 60 staff are being let go; in this depressed area, the impact will be severe. The new complex will take at least 18 months to build, probably longer. When completed, the current staff will be invited to interview for jobs with no guarantee of re-hiring.

Evidently, the TN Governor has tried unsuccessfully to privatize the park lodging system with no success. Twice bids to replace this lodge have been sent out and no private bidders have come forward to knock it down and build a new place at private expense. So evidently the state will re-build it and hope that they can encourage a private company to run it once a new facility is in place. Don’t know the economics or politics of the decision-making but on the surface it seems unwise for the state to go forward if no private enterprise thinks the idea will produce a profit. We left breakfast wondering if anyone would be bothering to fix our HVAC.

Dunlap Tennessee Coke Ovens

Since the day was predicted to warm up, we postponed hiking to the falls and headed out to Dunlap, Tennessee, an hour away. Dunlap is the site of a mine opened in 1899. Coal was mined out of Fredonia Mountain and at the base of the mountain, the coal was turned into coke for use in the iron and steel foundries of Chattanooga. The mine filed for bankruptcy in 1927 and the mines and coke ovens closed. They stood vacant for more than fifty years until local residents were able to organize and gain funds to restore the site.

Today, a restored commissary and museum (closed today) sit among the coke ovens, coal washer, and idled and rusted equipment in a 77 acre park. We hiked among the relics and the 286 stone ovens, some more deteriorated than others.

Part of the Trail of Tears

Towards the back of the park, there was a trail marker for the Trail of Tears. As we have reported previously, the Trail of Tears was a forced journey in 1838 moving Native Americans (Shawnee, Cherokee, Creek, Choctaw, etc.) from the Southeast U.S. to what would become Oklahoma. This location was on one of the trails as recorded by a missionary traveling with this group of approximately 1000 Cherokee. It is thought the spring in the park was the reason for stopping here.

After Dunlap, we drove through mountains (which would probably be more gorgeous with green leaves on the trees) to Dayton TN. Dayton was the site of the famous Scopes trial. Once again, our luck was not the best, the museum here was being refurbished and closed today. But we had wanted to see the original courtroom and knew it was open. The original judge’s bench, jury chairs, railing, spectator seats, etc. are still present. Part of the trial was held outdoors due to the temperature at the time of the trial.

For those of you unfamiliar with the Scopes Trial, here is a brief summary. Tennessee had passed a law forbidding the teaching of evolution in any school that received state funding. Locals in Dayton, including the head of the Cumberland Coal and Iron Company (part of which was the Dunlap Coke Ovens) convinced locals to contest the law in order to draw attention to Dayton. While local attorneys headed up the defense and prosecution, eventually William Jennings Bryan (three-time Presidential nominee) and Clarence Darrow (nationally known attorney) affiliated with the prosecution and defense respectively. The case did draw national attention. It is still commonly called the Scopes Monkey Trial. Scopes, the teacher, was convicted of teaching evolution.

On appeal to the Tennessee Supreme Court, the anti-teaching of evolution law was upheld but the conviction of Scopes tossed out on a technicality and the case was never re-tried. Tennessee repealed the law the following year.

Clockwise from upper left, Piney Creek Falls, Fall Creek Falls, and Cane Creek Falls at Fall Creek Falls State Park, Tennessee

The road back to Falls Creek Falls State Park took us over new mountain passes. At the park, we hiked several trails to view Fall Creek Falls at 256 feet, Piney Creek Falls at 85 feet, and Cane Creek Falls also at 85 feet. We kept running into a gentleman from New Orleans at the various sites who comes here every year, actually he visits Great Smoky Mountains and this park before returning home. He checked into the lodge this evening before returning tomorrow to New Orleans.

The view from our room at Fall Creek Falls State Park, Tennessee at a rare moment of some sunlight

After the hikes, we returned to our room, wondering: Fixed or Not Fixed? Turns out it was not fixed BUT luck was on our side. We checked in with the front desk, who was not even familiar with our request. She called the maintenance supervisor who showed up at our room. He also had never received any notice of an issue. Luckily the gentleman has worked here for 13 years and knew immediately what the problem was and how to fix it. We chatted some more about the closing of the lodge and restaurant. Personally his job will continue but many of his long-time co-workers will be out of work. Morale is lousy he said and the Governor would not win any votes in this county. One positive: the state will pay to the county the amount of hotel room tax to be lost. The tax revenues are dedicated to education and the loss of revenue would hurt the schools dramatically.

Ed and Chris. March 27

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2013 trip Eight, Nov. 1

Fort Smith, Arkansas Friday Nov. 1

It is too bad our memories are so fickle. Otherwise at the end of this year we would have a treasure trove of interesting information. Unfortunately, we can only remember portions. Fort Smith National Historic Site will be adding a goodly number of tidbits to our memories. It covered a number of interesting themes and the displays and docent tour were well done.

Fort Smith today

Fort Smith today

Fort Smith’s first role was to keep the peace among Indian tribes. The native Osage Indians were being challenged by the newly arriving Cherokees. The U.S., in its great wisdom, abrogated (not for the first or last time) earlier treaties with Indian tribes in the Southeast. This first fort was built in 1817.

Pres. Andrew Jackson ignored laws and was instrumental in forcing Indian tribes from the Southeast (Cree, Cherokee, Choctaw, Chickasaw and Seminole) into “Indian Territory”. This original Indian Territory was the land of the Louisiana Purchase-which just happened to already be occupied by other Indian tribes. “Indian Territory” shrunk to become the Oklahoma Territory which also eventually was divided up and mainly given to settlers.

The Indian tribes were forcibly relocated and their march to Indian Territory became called the Trail of Tears. However, this is not the first trail of tears we have encountered. This first Fort Smith completed its job and its role was taken over by other forts further west.

Judge Parkers re-created court room

Judge Parkers re-created court room

A second Fort Smith was built in the late 1830s as people in this area played up a fear of Indian attack from the Indian Territory just across the river. It was deemed unnecessary by the military but built anyway with massive stone walls that were never needed. The second fort was used more as a supply depot during the Mexican War, the Gold Rush, and while trying to control settlers surging into Indian lands.

After the Civil War, the fort played an important role in the ongoing relations with Indian tribes. During the war, the Indians were as divided between North and South as U.S. citizens. The United States decided to take the stance of considering all Indian tribes as part of the defeated Confederacy. This resulted in new treaties that once again further eroded tribal rights and land.

During the next decades, Indian tribes were able to police their own citizens. However any actions involving non-Indians were handled by the federal government. The Fort Smith facility became the center for the federal courts from 1872 to 1896.

During this period, the federal courts here were charged with prosecuting all civil and criminal cases involving U.S. settlers in the Indian territories as well as this portion of Arkansas. The U.S. Marshall and his deputies were active, there was a great deal of lawlessness at the time. Some of it included fraud and corruption by the federal employees.

A Judge Parker, sometimes known as the Hanging Judge, cleaned up the court system. He was responsible for more hangings than any other judge but served longer than most and headed the most active court. He was responsible for cleaning up the court corruption and also was active in criminal rehabilitation efforts and in improving relations with Indian nations. Media attention to infamous trials and hangings of criminals gave him the hanging judge moniker. Not unlike many people in history that get tagged with one facet of their lives.

Miss Laura's

Miss Laura’s

A room at Miss Laura's

A room at Miss Laura’s

After spending time at the historic site, we visited a location of additional history. This was a row house along the river, one of the few left standing after a major flood. This was Miss Laura’s house, where very proper senior men and women gave a tour of Miss Laura’s house of prostitution. Prostitution was legal in the late 1800s here and the “inmates” (as the ladies were called) had monthly health checks and a license issued.

Along the Mt. Magazine Scenic Byway

Along the Mt. Magazine Scenic Byway

Ozark Forest overlook

Ozark Forest overlook

Education efforts completed, we were off for more scenery. We drove along Mount Magazine Scenic Byway to the state park almost at the top of Signal Hill, the highest point in Arkansas at 2,753 feet above sea level. We took a hike with a ranger but chose not to wait for dinner to be served at their restaurant with fabulous views. The sun is setting earlier and it reduces our driving time. We had to pass up the Pig Trail Scenic Byway too.

Looking toward Ouachita Mtns which run east to west

Looking toward Ouachita Mtns which run east to west

Chris and Ed at Mt. Magazine State Park

Chris and Ed at Mt. Magazine State Park

Ed and Chris Nov. 2 10 am

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