Posts Tagged With: Topsail Hill Preserve State Park FL

2015 Trip 1, Feb. 13, Florida in Winter

Port St. Joe, Friday Feb. 13

Friday the 13th finds us in a small town of 3,500 people on the “Forgotten Coast” of Florida. This can be visualized as the peninsula portion of Florida, east of the panhandle and north and west of everything else. It is the home of small towns, fishing fleets, and numerous protected islands and beaches. We will be here for two nights before moving to St. Marks, at the eastern end of the Forgotten Coast.

Before we discuss today, one further comment about Topsail. When we checked out, we talked with a ranger who was more knowledgeable about the history of Topsail. Evidently, the area was primarily owned by the St. Joe Paper Company and there was a separate, smaller piece of land that was the RV park, privately owned. The paper company sold off its chunk of land to a developer who planned to develop the usual beach shore area. The developer had started moving earth and had roads planned but went belly up. The state moved in to purchase and protect the land. Part of the land that St. Joe Paper sold to the developer included the beach access used by the RV park. With the sale of the developer’s land to the state, the RV park people lost their beach access and sold the RV park land to the state also.

Anyway, we headed out but made a brief stop at the Donut Hole Bakery Cafe. This is a local landmark frequently mentioned by the people we ran across during our stay at Topsail. The donuts were excellent. The drive to Port St. Joe was uneventful, mainly American strip development with some ocean front development around Panama City. There is another military base and several small rivers to cross.

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

We are now in Port St. Joe and have moved into the eastern time zone. The time zone line is weirdly drawn; in fact, Gulf County in which St. Joe is located, is but one of four counties in the U.S. which has two time zones in it. We stopped to look at the Cape San Blas lighthouse. This third lighthouse at this location (two previous ones were destroyed by shoreline erosion.) was built in 1885. It was deactivated in 1996 and moved over onto the land side for preservation purposes. We chose not to pay the $5 each to see another lighthouse.

Waling in St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

Walking in St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

Walking in St Joseph Peninsula State Park

Walking in St Joseph Peninsula State Park

Looking west into the Gulf of Mexico

Looking west into the Gulf of Mexico

The original location of the lighthouse was on Cape San Blas on St. Joseph’s Peninsula. The Peninsula and Cape jut out into the Gulf and form a 10 mile barrier that protects Port St. Joe from coastal storms and creates a sheltered harbor. We drove out to the St. Joseph Peninsula State Park which was created after WWII when the military facility there closed. The end of the park is a wilderness preserve; we walked along a nature trail at the southern end of the park/peninsula.

Walking along Cape San Blas

Walking along Cape San Blas

Sunset view  from Sunset Coastal Grill

Sunset view from Sunset Coastal Grill

Dinner was at Sunset Coastal Grill in Port St. Joe. Excellent food and a location right on the bay with great sunsets (hence the name).

Ed and Chris 2/13 9:30 pm

Categories: road trip, travel | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

2015 Trip 1, Feb. 12, Florida in Winter

Santa Rosa Beach, Thursday Feb. 12

Along the Deer Track Trail in Topsail

Along the Deer Track Trail in Topsail

Another beautiful hiking day. Four and a quarter hours but probably only 8-9 miles. The third straight day of extensive hiking left us a little tired plus walking on the softer sand of interior sand dunes made for slower going. The weather again was great for hiking; a light breeze, temperatures started in the 50s but ended in the mid-60s F.

Part of the Morris Lake Trail at Topsail

Part of the Morris Lake Trail at Topsail

Morris Lake Trail

Morris Lake Trail

Morris Lake Trail

Morris Lake Trail

image

Today’s destination was the Morris Lake Trail, another of the freshwater dune lakes. To reach it, we had to once again hike parts of the Campbell Lake Path and the Deer Track Trail. The last two are primarily forest; Morris Lake Trail climbs up and down older sand dunes-along an approved trail. The area appears to have suffered from at least one of the hurricanes in the area as one observes downed old trees with new pine growth occurring also. Morris Lake appears slightly smaller than Campbell Lake; the trail goes past the lake to the end of the park. High rise development is just past the park boundary.

Along the Morris Lake Trail

Along the Morris Lake Trail

A little pool along the ocean

A little pool along the ocean

Our hike back ended with a mile or so hike along the ocean. Today was warm enough to walk barefoot in the sand. There were a few people out walking this stretch but I believe most people currently staying at Topsail either stay around their RV or maybe bike along the interior roads.

Spending time watching the birds along the ocean

Spending time watching the birds along the ocean

Birds were much more abundant today, both in sight and by sound. Nothing particularly picturesque; we did throw in one sandpiper photo for you. Their antics along the beach are fun to watch.

Walking along the shore

Walking along the shore

We treated ourselves to a late lunch at Goatfeathers. Their mahi-mahi daily special was excellent. They re-affirmed that we were in the South since I received a to-go cup of Coke without even asking me if I wanted it. Instead of a nap, Chris did laundry before we attended the evening entertainment.

“Lucky Mud” is a couple about our age singing honky-tonk, folk and R & B. They play around Florida with traveling stints around the U.S. and Ireland. The performance was held in the clubhouse instead of under the stars in the amphitheater since the temperature is currently 52 degrees F. I even got to use my headband flashlight for the first time since the park lighting is hit or miss.

Lucky Mud seems to play only songs they have written over the last decades. Two particularly striking ones to me were about female song writers and the power of water in life. The crowd was appreciative and we had a fun time. The cover charge seems to be split between the musicians and the Friends of Topsail Hill Preserve State Park.

Ed and Chris Feb. 12 8:30 pm

Categories: road trip, travel | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

2015 Trip 1, Feb. 11, Florida in Winter

Santa Rosa Beach, FL Wed. Feb. 11

Glamping is a term that has been popularized recently. It refers to glamorous camping, usually expensive digs in exotic locations. Chris likes to call our state park lodgings glamping when I might call it low frills lodging. We had moved the ten miles from the Courtyard by Marriott in Sandestin (which was cheaper and much nicer) to Topsail Hill Preserve State Park to be lodging inside the park itself. We do not camp and we do not own an RV. Topsail, and numerous other state parks nowadays, offer furnished cabins with linens, equipped kitchens etc.

Our bungalow at Topsail.

Our bungalow at Topsail.

We are staying in one of the bungalows, one bedroom units. Our neighbor across the street informed us that this place used to be a private RV/bungalow park until the state bought it. The neighbor has been here since the early days of the privately owned park and actually owns his bungalow but leases the land from the state-he was grandfathered in. When the lease expires, he is out. I found no data on how or why the owners were bought out, the neighbor indicated the state initiated the transaction.

Most likely the press of development spurred action to preserve a rare spot of open land. You see the high-rise and expensive new developments on either side of Topsail. A realtor in one of the cutesy towns along Scenic Highway 30A we drove through on Tuesday said that the average selling price of homes in 2013 in her town was $1,500,000. Seaside, one of the towns we drove through, was started in 1984 on 80+ acres of land as a planned community. Now it gets rave reviews of how town living should be. Of course, at high home price residents can afford lots of amenities. Town names don’t hurt the image: Rosemary Beach, Blue Mountain, Seascape, Seagrove, Watersound, Watercolor, Seacrest, Gulf Place, etc.

lunch on te screened in porch

lunch on the screened in porch

The bungalows here at Topsail were double-wide mobile homes/manufactured housing. Ours is spacious with lots of storage space, but furnished on the thrifty side. There is a TV and heating/cooling, screened-in porch, shower with lots of hot water. Towels are skimpy, no soap (we always carry some extra), 4 place settings of Correlle dishes, etc. The definite advantage is the ability to walk out your door to go hiking. The beach is a mile hike away although they do run a tram on the hour. The tram starts at the day use area for people who just come for the day. Not too many of those at the moment. I can see families packing up for a great summer vacation here.

Florida has “branding” names for various sections of its ocean coast. This one is called Emerald Coast; the waters in the Gulf of Mexico are more green-blue. Certainly the sand deserves all of the rave reviews. It is white, very soft and should be great for walking in during the summer. I have been told that the sand here does not heat up during the summer months. We have not had warm enough weather to test that out. Our hike along a mile or more of the beach on Tuesday was easy, the sand compacts nicely where the wave action is. The interior dunes have looser sand than takes more slogging.

Sonic booms continue from the military jets flying overhead. It is frequent but once you get used to it, it becomes background noise. There is another military base to our east by Panama City.

Campbell Lake

Campbell Lake

Wednesday was spent entirely hiking inside the park. We spent almost five hours hiking in three trips through the wooded areas, usually said to resemble Old Florida, the panhandle of lumbering and small towns. According to the trail guide and our usual pace, that should be about 15 miles. Our legs are definitely getting a workout. We had considered renting a bike. The Timpoochee Trail runs for 20 miles along Scenic Highway 30A but we figured we had seen those sights and most of the ride was along the highway.

Wildlife and birds continue to be sparse. Some people have seen deer; we saw one but deer are so common in Minnesota that it is like saying you saw a squirrel. We saw one flock of birds on Campbell Lake, a few on our walks and some sandpipers along the ocean beach. At sunset Tuesday night we observed a dolphin just off-shore.

Meals are not all fancy restaurants. Tuesday we shopped at the Publix grocery store and for $11 picked up 8 pieces of chicken, cole slaw, baked beans and rolls that provided us with three meals. We did add some fruit.

I will sign off with a few more sunset shots.

sunset

sunset

sunset

sunset

sunset

sunset

Ed and Chris Thursday Feb. 12 9 AM

Categories: road trip, travel | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

2015 Trip 1, Feb. 10, Florida in Winter

Santa Rosa Beach, FL Tuesday Feb. 10

Clearwater Lake one of the freshwater dune lakes at Topsail Hill Preserve State Park

Clearwater Lake one of the freshwater dune lakes at Topsail Hill Preserve State Park with tall sand dunes in background

Walking through and over the dunes at Topsail

Walking through and over the dunes at Topsail

Today was a nature day. We checked out of the Courtyard in Sandestin and drove maybe 10 miles to our next lodging, Topsail Hill Preserve State Park. Topsail has 1600 acres of land and 3 miles of pristine white sand beach. It is one of the few remaining undisturbed sand beaches in Florida. Topsail is home to three rare, freshwater dune lakes. In the South Walton area of the Florida panhandle, there are 15 of these lakes and they can only be found here, Madagascar, Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Northwest. Dunes here top 25 feet, and the park is home to wetlands, pine forests, etc. The park land is close to the original beach ecosystem.

The beach at Topsail

The beach at Topsail

Dunes at Topsail

Dunes at Topsail

We went for a 2.5 hour walk through the forests, over the dunes (on approved paths), around dune lakes, and along the ocean. When we started out, it was sunny but 47 degrees with a 15 mph wind, so it was quite cool. By the time we ended the walk, it was closer to 60 degrees F. We continue to hear the roar of jets and helicopters but this time the birds were chirping away also. One deer was sighted, no alligators yet. There was only one close call when the path seemed to disappear but we soon re-connected with the official trail.

No name lake, one of the freshwater lakes

No name lake, one of the freshwater lakes

The park is mildly busy. We have met people from Georgia, Ohio, and Toronto. Most are retired like us but are traveling by RV. Many of the 35 cabins and bundalows are unoccupied; only a few of the 22 campsites seemed occupied but most of the almost 170 RV sites are taken.

One of many US military planes in the area

One of many US military planes in the area

Another view of Campbell Lake at Topsail

Another view of Campbell Lake at Topsail

We went down the road to Stinky’s Fish Camp for lunch; the fresh grouper was very tasty. We picked up groceries and had a short nap before it was time to watch our first official Emerald Coast sunset. We walked down to the ocean, there were not a lot of clouds to enhance the sunset but the colors were worth another hike.

Dunes at sunset

Dunes at sunset

Sunset

Sunset

Sunset

Sunset

So this post is more pictures and less words, undoubtedly a winning combination.

Ed and Chris Feb. 10 8:30 PM

Categories: road trip, travel | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

Blog at WordPress.com.