Posts Tagged With: Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge

2019 Trip 3: South Florida: April 2

This bird knows he owns the road and he is not moving until he feels like it

Everglades City, FL April 2

We spent much of the day in the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park. Fakahatchee is Seminole for forked river and a strand means a long narrow, swamp forest. The Fakahatchee is Florida’s largest state park and is home to numerous wild orchids, one of which is in bloom now. The FSPSP connects Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge (one of Sunday’s stops) to the Gulf of Mexico. FSPSP is the orchid capital of the US and has the largest population of native Royal Palms in the US.

Royal Palms in Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park

Met another volunteer couple staffing the welcome center; they summer in Rhinelander WI and have been volunteering here for over six years. They gave us a few pointers about the best places to hike. Instead, we ended up driving most of the time we viewed the park. The Janes Scenic Drive is gravel (not a problem) but full of potholes that suggest strongly that one drive slowly and carefully. The portion of the road that is open for cars is only 6 miles; we drove it at speeds of 3-6 mph. There were just many birds to see and it was relaxing to motor along nice and slow.

Can you spot the fawn?

Twice we headed out on hikes. For the first one, we chose to be safe rather than sorry. Signs about alligators tell you not to harass them, not to feed them, etc. The signs we read were not specific how to deal with them sitting in your trail path.
In general, alligators are not aggressive and do not attack humans. But what if they are just right there?? Alligators are big, have strong jaws and tails, and can move fast for short distances. On this first hike, the alligator was taking up about one-third of the trail. Oh, did we say they frequently just stay in one spot? Thus, the likelihood of the gator ambling along soon was low. We chose to turn around and abort this hike.

Along our hikes

On our second hike, we met another volunteer clearing the trail to assist people in walking along. We asked him about the alligator and he suggested that in the future, we should use a big stick and gently touch the alligator on the tail. That touch normally would encourage it to just move forward a bit. We thanked him but I am not sure we will take advantage of this suggestion in the future.

Along the Big Bend Cypress Boardwalk at Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park

All in all, we spent about three hours at Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park. We returned to the Ivey House, had a snack, went in the pool, and then returned to our exploring. This time we went to a different portion of the park to explore the Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk Trail. Here, we were told that a bear was just ahead on the right side and to be quiet as we approached it. Well, we were quiet but alas, the bear had disappeared. Chris, who was not excited about seeing any bear, was nonetheless 30 feet ahead of me on the trail; I was trying to look everywhere and she was just marching at double pace. In any event, it was just a walk in the woods.

Our final stop was exciting. Monday we had taken in a presentation at the Everglades National Park Visitor Center. The ranger giving the talk, besides telling us about his adventures in Alaska, advised us to take the Marsh Trail to watch the birds returning to the roost at sunset. The experience was magnificent. An observation tower is strategically placed for bird watching. We spent at least 45 minutes there until sunset had occurred.

Birds landing along the Marsh Trail at Ten Thousand Island Wildlife Refuge

Birds at Marsh Trail at Ten Thousand Island National Wildlife Refuge

When we arrived, the ponds and marsh were already busy with roosting birds. As we watched, more birds arrived in groups of 1, 2, 3 or 4. As time went on, the groups grew in size to have 20, 30, or 40 returning birds. A variety of species were landing, chirping, and gathering. But as time went on, many of the birds which had landed in the pond to our right picked up and flew to a group of trees on our left to roost for the night. It must be a safer location to avoid predators there. Only about 20 people were here, it was a great experience and lightly attended. Several of the human attendees had cameras that likely cost at least 10 times the cost of our point and shoot but our pictures are sufficient to illustrate the experience.

On our way back to the car, we saw an alligator crossing the paved trail from west to east about 100 feet in front of us, heading home evidently for the night. When we passed the point where the gator had crossed, we could see the wet trail his feet and tail had made on the pavement. This time we did not have to worry about what to do with a gator on the trail.

This marsh area was also part of Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge. We did not observe any damage from Hurricane Irma here, evidently the barrier islands had helped to mitigate the storm. When we had taken the boat ride Monday, several islands had been hit with a 14 foot tidal surge. The amount of salt water was enough to kill a long line of mangrove trees at the edge of the islands. We did not observe that here.

Ed and Chris Everglades City FL. April 3

Sunset over the Everglades and Ten Thousand Islands

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2019 Trip 3: South Florida: April 1

A section of Florida not usually seen by visitors

Everglades City, FL. April 1

Florida has panthers. Not black panthers but mountain lion beige. We really had no hopes of seeing one but we hiked the only accessible trail in Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge just because. Most of the refuge is off-limits to humans and most sightings of panthers have either been on trail cameras at night or dead panthers who have tried to cross the highway. About 10% of the panther population is killed each year by cars.

Since we wanted to get a stamp in our wildlife refuge Blue Goose Passport, we drove the interstate to the office address listed on the Internet brochure. The office was located in the Comfort Inn just off the interstate-or at least, it was until several years ago. Hoping there would be a stamp at the trailhead, we continued our drive to the refuge. There were two other cars in the lot, one belonging to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Maybe 10 minutes into our hike, we encountered the refuge ranger and a college intern. We mentioned the error for the refuge headquarters address and he gave us directions to the office. At the office (after the hike), the woman at the front desk was from Wisconsin and we chatted for a while about the Midwest. Yes, we did obtain the stamp and one for Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge which we will be visiting during the next two days.

It is estimated that only 120 to 230 panthers still exist in the wild. Needing large acreage to exist, they live in this wildlife refuge and adjacent public land preservation areas. Generally they eat deer, raccoons, and wild hogs. The panthers are an endangered species with loss of habitat the largest challenge to their continued existence. As you have probably guessed, we did not see any on our hike.

The Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge is 26,000 acres and our 1 1/3 mile trail hike was behind the fencing used to help protect the panthers but limited to a small section of the refuge. We hiked through wetlands, prairie and hardwood forest with a view of Florida not seen by most visitors.

Entering the western portion of Everglades National Park

After the hike, we drove to Everglades National Park. ENP has several visitor centers, this one is at the western edge of the park. ENP is the third largest national park in the lower 48 after Death Valley and Yellowstone. The views here are not similar to the grand parks of the western U.S. Even getting this area declared a national park was a challenge; Ernest Coe was a Floridian instrumental in raising the awareness of the possibilities of this area for a national park. One of the visitor centers is named after him.

A second important person in spreading the knowledge of the value of the Everglades as a national resource was Marjory Stoneman Douglas. Marjory Stoneman Douglas was born in Minneapolis but spend most of her life in Miami as a reporter and writer. Her influential book The Everglades: River of Grass was published in 1947 and was an instant best seller. It has sold over half a million copies since it was first published.

Originally we were planning to take a 10 AM boat tour Tuesday of the ten thousand island area. We changed our plans and went on the 5 PM tour today. While the Everglades includes wetlands on the mainland, it also extends into the Gulf of Mexico. The water around Everglades City at low tide is only 2-4 feet deep, even though it stretches as far as one can see. Any thing sticking out of the water is classified as an island, thus in reality there are over 16,000 islands in this area off the coasts. Islands might be just mangroves growing on a sandbar, a higher piece of land created by the Colusa Indians out of shells, or a combination of limestone and washed up sand from ocean tides.

Our boat tour was on a pontoon boat and lasted 90 minutes. We observed numerous islands obviously, some dolphins, and lots of birds. Several fishing boats were returning to the harbor after spending the day in the Gulf fishing for crabs; Everglades City is a major crab fishing locale, we hope to try some local fish Tuesday.

Osprey and chicks top, bald eagle lower left, American oyster catcher lower right

The tour was delightful way to end the evening. We will be staying in Everglades City for three nights at a local place, Ivey House. It is a combination lodge, inn, B &B. Half of the establishment is open for business, half was destroyed in Hurricane Irma and is under re-construction now. Everglades City is another town with Hurricane Irma damage. Over at the National Park, the visitor center was destroyed by the hurricane while the maintenance building next to it and constructed similarly was spared. The park is operating out of a series of modular buildings at the moment.

End of day after boat tour in Ten Thousand Islands

Ed and Chris. April 2

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