Posts Tagged With: Red River State Recreation Area

2015 Trip Five, Voyageurs National Park and NW MN,August 18-19

Tuesday, August 18, East Grand Forks, MN

Along the road in MN

Along the road in MN

Just because the roads are flat and straight up here does not mean the driving is easy. We came across the monster above while driving to Thief River Falls on a county road. We had to not only pull over onto the shoulder of the road (without going in the ditch), we had to make sure we had pulled over at a spot where he could also spread out on to his shoulder.

American Crystal Sugar plant in East Grand Forks

American Crystal Sugar plant in East Grand Forks

Sugar beets

Sugar beets

Before starting our major endeavors, we had read that the sugar industry was starting to harvest sugar beets. We drove over to the plant and saw the beets being stacked outside on concrete pads..

Red RIver of the North at Grand Forks-East Grand Forks

Red River of the North at Grand Forks-East Grand Forks

Tuesday started with a five mile hike up the MN side of the Red River and back down the ND side of the river. Although, now that I think about it, we went down river by going north in MN and upriver by going south in ND. I forgot already the information I posted last time about the way the Red River of the North flows northwards.

The levee at East Grand Forks

The levee at East Grand Forks

The flood control efforts here cost over $400,000,000; about one half of the cost of the new Vikings football stadium. The landscaping is nice, the walls are attractive, and there are plenty of restrooms and recreational facilities. There are new bridges and new civic buildings. The number of homes removed has been equalled or exceeded by new housing built away from the river. They have removed the dam in the river and made it easier for fish to swim upriver.

Red River rapids, no dam

Red River rapids, no dam

For those of you who do not remember, the flood control measures are necessitated since the Red River of the North flows through very flat land, resulting in spring flood waters that spread out for a dramatic distance. In addition, since it flows north, river waters in the south melt first and then run into a roadblock of ice on the river as the water flows downstream (north).

A memorial indicating the height of the past floods along the Red River

A memorial indicating the height of the past floods along the Red River

After the morning walk, we drove to Thief River Falls. Our goal was to make the 1:00 PM tour of the Arctic Cat factory. Arctic Cat makes snowmobiles, all terrain vehicles, recreational off highway vehicles. (No pictures can be taken inside the factory.) Arctic Cat is a MN company, founded in 1960 as a spin-off from Polaris Industries, the original maker of snowmobiles.

Arctic Cat snowmobiles

Arctic Cat snowmobiles

Arctic Cat employes 1800 people in the Thief River Falls area. Population here is about 8500. As we found out at dinner, another company,Digi-Key, employs another 3000 people here. Digi Key buses (free of charge) employees in from Crookston, East Grand Forks, etc. If you want a job in this part of MN, you can get one real easy.

The 90 minute tour took us through the manufacturing lines for snowmobiles, all terrain vehicles (ATV), and recreational side by side off highway vehicles (ROV). They assemble here; most parts are made by third-party suppliers. We did view close up the section where the foam seat cushions are molded and one woman demonstrated how she placed the leather finish over the seat. Women and men worked side by side at almost all production jobs.

Arctic Cat makes 225 snowmobiles per day and 75 each of the ATVs and of the ROVs. Some of the product they assemble is for Yamaha. The plant tour is noisy and it was difficult sometimes to hear the presenter but still it made for an interesting experience. Thursday we go on the Polaris factory tour.

Agassiz Wildlife Refuge

Agassiz Wildlife Refuge

We left Thief River Falls and headed out to Agassiz National Wildlife Refuge, our third wildlife refuge in three days. Agassiz is 60,000 acres of wetland, shrubland, forests and grasslands. The name comes from the Swiss-American naturalist for whom Glacial Lake Agassiz was named. Glacial Lake Agassiz existed 8-10,000 years ago when the snow and ice from the last glacier melted and covered this area. The glacier formed the very flat land we have been driving across. The refuge was created in the 1930s in reaction to the same issues that created Rydell Wildlife Refuge. The attempts by local farmers and counties to drain the land was unsuccessful and the tax forfeited land went to the state. Even the state could not afford the upkeep so they handed it over to the feds.

Agassiz Wildlife Refuge

Agassiz Wildlife Refuge

A hike and a four mile driving tour of the refuge left us less impressed than we had been with Rydell. Rydell seemed more visitor friendly; but then the mission of the refuges is to preserve and protect the fish and wildlife. Agassiz is larger and may be a better resource for the animals. Our drive was through wetlands; without much elevation, it is hard to see beyond the cattails and water.

Dinner was at the Evergreen Eating Emporium in Thief River Falls. An excellent meal. The hostess was the one who filled us in on the employment patterns in the area. She has worked for Digi-Key for 20 years, and for 20 years for the restaurant. Kind of knows the ins and outs.

Wednesday, August 19.

East Grand Forks was left behind as we headed out to Roseau MN. Along the way, we stopped at two State of Minnesota parks, Lake Bronson and Hayes Lake. Both of these lakes are man-made, not natural. Both offer much desired water recreation options.

Lake Bronson state park

Lake Bronson state park

WPA constructed water tower and observation tower at Lake Bronson

WPA constructed water tower and observation tower at Lake Bronson

Lake Bronson was formed due to a water shortage in the 1930s. This area of MN actually has slightly salty groundwater. Remember those acidic bogs at Big Bog Recreation Area a few days ago? Bronson and Hallack wanted a reliable drinking water source and the WPA (Works Progress Administration) came through. The WPA was one of FDR’s answers to the Depression. The WPA built a dam here, along with park facilities, water treatment plant and piping, and enough other public projects to make this location the largest WPA project in the State of Minnesota.

Our walk here was okay but shortened. We planned to reach a second portion of the park, but found that the gravel road was so washboardy that we worried about the suspension on the car. The other dirt roads we have been driving on were fine, this one was not. We decided not to risk the suspension and drove on to Hays Lake State Park. Unfortunate for us; Hayes Lake was far enough away with greater rainfall that the mosquito count was much higher than at Lake Bronson.

Lake Hayes State Park

Lake Hayes State Park

But we persevered and are now enduring fresh mosquito bites in order to bring you new, and exciting (?), experiences. Hayes Lake was also formed by damming a river, the Roseau River versus Two Rivers at Lake Bronson. We hiked along the lakeshore, hoping to spot moose, which are frequently seen in the park. No luck for us. There are still several more days in the north woods before we head home, so maybe all of the moose are waiting for the end of the trip. The hiking trail was level with the pine needles providing for a soft cushion underneath. No tripping on tree roots and rocks here.

Lake Hayes State Park

Lake Hayes State Park

As we drove from Lake Bronson to Hayes Lake, we encountered more trees and slightly hillier landscapes. Flat agricultural land still predominates, but as we continue east that will change. We are only ten miles from Canada. We expect to be looking across the Rainy River into Ontario and Manitoba over the next four days.

There are 76 state parks and recreation areas in MN. We have visited 23 of them in the last four months. Today in order to make sure we visited both state parks, we even passed by the Kittson County Historical Museum without stopping in. The county was named for Norman Kittson, a pioneer in early MN heavily involved in the ox-cart trains, along with later interests in steamboats and railroads.

Now we are in Roseau, a community of 2,600. Smaller than Thief River Falls and East Grand Forks, but still larger than many of the small towns we have driven through with populations well under 1,000.

Ed and Chris
August 19, 2015

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2015 Trip Five, Voyageurs National Park and N.W. Minnesota, August 16

East Grand Forks, MN Monday August 17

Old church by the side of the road in NW MN

Old church by the side of the road in NW MN

Minnesota has 11,842 lakes greater than 10 acres in size. Sunday morning we left the land of lakes and forests and headed over to the prairie land where there are very few lakes. The transition does not happen immediately but by Sunday afternoon we were in flat, flat, flat land. But first, we had three stops scheduled before our planned arrival in East Grand Forks Minnesota.

Silos,elevator and train along road

Silos,elevator and train along road

We left behind an area where every second vehicle was a pick-up or SUV pulling a boat and trailer. The road Sunday was straight with varying fields of sugar beets, corn, wheat, sunflowers, potatoes, and soybeans. Trees were planted as wind breaks, not as part and parcel of a forest. Every small town had its huge stack of elevators storing crops. Trains were comprised of hopper cars of coal or grains along with tanker cars we presumed with North Dakota oil but possibly other liquid goods. Small white-painted churches dotted the countryside.

Field of sunflowers

Field of sunflowers

Rydell National Wildlife Refuge was our first stop. Here we are out in the rural, sparsely populated area and we run into three women with their children going for a Sunday morning walk. The refuge office was closed but the trails were open. This refuge is still in the transition zone, so there were wetlands, small forest areas, ponds and grasslands. This part of MN was primarily prairie until the European settlers arrived and plowed up the land for agriculture. One can see the rich, black dirt that produces such good crops.

Wheat Field

Wheat Field

The railroads were the major driver of settlement in this part of the US. The railroads were given land by the federal and/or state government which they used to sell land to European immigrants. Other immigrants used the Homestead Act to gain their 160 acres of land at low cost. Towns were built along the railroad tracks where the crops were raised and then the crops sent back east on the same railroads that brought the immigrants out here to settle. Wheat was the primary crop planted by the settlers. That wheat was ground into flour in Minneapolis which was the flour milling capital of the world from 1880 to 1930. Even today, wheat is heavily grown in the Red River Valley of the North.

Two Sandhill Cranes

Two Sandhill Cranes

Part of Rydell National Wildlife Refuge

Part of Rydell National Wildlife Refuge

Swan family

Swan family

The Rydell National Wildlife Refuge was formerly home to 19 farmsteads. Its 2200 acres is bordered by land still being farmed. In one field located just across from the refuge entrance, we observed, and listened to the calls of, two Sandhill Cranes in a field where the wheat had just been harvested. In the refuge itself, we could view numerous prairie grasses and flowers. Trumpeter swans were swimming in two of the ponds.

Glacial Ridge Wildlife Refuge

Glacial Ridge Wildlife Refuge

A second stop was the Glacial Ridge National Wildlife Refuge. This one is so new that we drove past the small, off the road sign announcing it. Glacial Ridge is a partnership of over 30 agencies that hope to eventually make this the largest restored prairie in the U.S. Its goal is over 35,000 acres (Rydell is only 2,200 acres). There is only one short trail currently usable. We had hoped there would be more. We did drive past numerous signs indicating the refuge was located behind the fences, but only the one trail. One major goal for Glacial Ridge is the creation of sufficient habitat for prairie chickens which are dying out. The prairie chicken has a unique “booming” sound during its mating ritual.

Airboat on Red Lake River

Airboat on Red Lake River

The city of Crookston MN was our third stop. The city was holding its annual Ox-Cart Days festival this weekend. Most of the festival was over by Sunday but we managed to go on an air boat ride on the Red Lake River. The river flows out of Red Lake which we visited on Saturday. Two of our companions were Bob and Joyce from Crookston who filled us in on the flooding history of Crookston. When you read of the floods in Grand Forks, Crookston was usually hit also. The Crookston/Grand Forks area is one of the few parts of the U.S. where the rivers flow north. This exacerbates the spring snow melt floods since the snows melts and then it has to flow north where the river is usually still frozen.

The old ox cart  used until the 1870s

The old ox cart used until the 1870s

Ox Cart Days are the town’s effort to remember its history. Way back when, even before the railroads, ox carts were the primary means of commercial traffic between Winnipeg and St. Paul. Ox carts, with large wheels to better handle the muddy roads, traveled in “trains” of several hundred at a time, and were pulled by one or two oxen. They moved at a slow pace of 20 miles per day. The train of carts had ungreased wheels which made a creaking sound that could be heard six miles away. It took hours for them to pass by a single location, leading to memories of “no other sound you ever heard in your life”. The ox carts were only able to make one or two round trips per year due to their slow speed and the short summer season. And I sometimes complain that Amtrak is an hour or two behind schedule!

One of the local churches was having a pizza and Celtic music picnic where we ended the day. The church had just built their own outdoor stove to make pizza. The wife of the stove builder explained to us that this was their public endeavor with it. We had three slices each. Good job folks.

The drive from Crookston to East Grand Forks was completely in the prairie area. Flat lands in every direction. I have not yet been able to differentiate between fields of potatoes, soybeans, and sugar beets. While Idaho and Washington produce over half of the U.S. crop of potatoes, this section of ND and MN rank sixth and seventh.

Crookston sugar beet facility

Crookston sugar beet facility

Sugar beets are a big deal up here; you may have read over the years of the impact the sugar beet lobby has in limiting imported sugar and in providing for strong sugar beets subsidies. We have seen two large sugar beet producing facilities, one in Crookston and one near our Fairfield hotel in East Grand Forks.

We had dinner Sunday night at the Blue Moose in East Grand Forks. It is located as close to the Red River of the North as a business can get nowadays. After the disastrous 1997 floods, much of the two downtowns (Grand Forks ND is on the west bank of the river) were destroyed. Instead of reconstruction, the properties were torn down and a park installed. On the MN side of the river, it is the Red River Recreation Area. The businesses were pushed back aways and dikes built to better protect the town.

We went walking through the river park. It has great bike and walking paths and some campgrounds. There are still plans to do more flood prevention work which is very controversial-and expensive. Since the land up here is so flat, any flooding back-up can impact miles of territory. Not sure how it will eventually be resolved.

Ed and Chris

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