Posts Tagged With: Minnesota State Parks

2017 Travel: Minnesota State Parks

Saint Paul, MN. October 2017

Belgrade Minnesota Memorial Park

Success! Two and one-half years ago, Chris had another travel idea. Join the Minnesota State Parks Passport Club with a goal of visiting all of the 76 Minnesota state parks. (Note: two parks have since been combined into one so there are now 75 state parks; you can waive four of the locations that are extremely remote, only accessible by water, or designed only for off-road vehicles.)

On April 12, 2015 we began the Passport Club by visiting Fort Snelling State Park. On Sunday, October 8, 2017 we visited park number 74, Glacial Lakes State Park. The only place we missed was Garden Island State Recreation Area, an island in the Northwest Angle of Minnesota that juts into Canada, north of International Falls. We set rules for ourselves; even if we had visited parks previously, we had to visit them again after April 12, 2015, and we had to take a hike of at least one mile in each park. Normally our hikes were much longer. There were two or three places where the bugs were too bad or the trails were lost in the snow that we did not hike a mile. During the last 2.5 years, we have documented in this blog a good number of the state parks as we have traveled around Minnesota.

What did we accomplish? Primarily, the Passport Club made us visit parts of Minnesota we had not seen before. In traveling to parks, we spent time driving on dirt roads, visiting very small towns, and talking to a wide range of people. We slept in B and B’s, in camper cabins at the parks, in small hotels, in a bunk house, at casinos and lake resorts. Note we are not campers; we do not own a tent or drive an RV and have no desire to do so. We ate at some nationally franchised restaurants but primarily at locally owned small town eateries.

Wildflowers at Nerstrand Big Woods State Park

We observed fields of blooming sunflowers; took factory tours, hiked up mountains (Minnesota sized), saw innumerable waterfalls, gloried in fall colors and colorful prairie flowers. Most parks were immaculate and a treasure to behold, a few were more ramshackle and in need of visitors and maintenance. Oh yes, we saw lakes. Lot and lots of lakes. While the lakes almost always presented clear water, we understand phosphorus and nitrogen can be unseen problems. Invasive species did not jump out and say “Here we are”.

I was generally impressed with the quality of the roads in outstate Minnesota (or Greater Minnesota as it is frequently termed). Farm equipment was frequently encountered; we were amazed at the size and heft of some of the machinery. During this two and one-half years, we bought a new car and found the new one gave a smoother ride-even on dirt roads. Inside the parks, while we usually hiked, bike trails are numerous and located all over the state. Several times we rented bikes locally to enjoy the bike trails. A few other times we rented canoes and enjoyed the views from the level of the water.

Moose and wolves hid from us but numerous small mammals and tons of birds were viewed. We are not birders, so we will not bore you with an attempted list of all that we saw. On occasion we observed more birds here in St. Paul along the Mississippi River than we did along birding trails. We do not fish so don’t inquire about the quality of the fishing. There were plenty of people fishing though so it must be at least reasonable.

Only two parks were visited during the dead of winter (not counting winter hiking locally at parks like Afton and Fort Snelling which we visit frequently). La Salle Lake State Recreation Area which was one of the ones for which we could not find a winter trail and Lake Itasca to observe the headwaters of the Mississippi River in the dead of winter-gorgeous!

Are we going to do it again? Not really in this form. Since there are some parks that really were not that great, we expect to frequent parks that greatly appealed to us or which have sections we did not visit on our first time there. The list of parks to visit again is much longer now than I would have expected.

We agreed when this was over we would each make a list of the top 10% of the parks (seven each) that we enjoyed. The criteria are nebulous and changing, at least for me. I made myself limit the list to only one North Shore park, otherwise the waterfalls along Lake Superior would put every one of those parks on my short list. Surprisingly, our lists were quite different.

Chris: not in any particular order
Big Bog
Forestville/Mystery Cave
Red River
Hill Annex Mine
Nerstrand Big Woods
Tettegouche
Crow Wing

Ed: again not in any particular order
Big Bog
Judge C.R. Magney
Frontenac
Tower Soudan (and Lake Vermillion as combined park)
Blue Mounds
Interstate
Fort Snelling

To reach our final three parks, we left Saturday morning Oct. 7th under gray, rainy skies. As we drove west through Minnesota agricultural land, the skies cleared and the temperature hit the high 60s. On the drive we went through Cosmos MN, a new town for us. As its name implies, all of the streets have cosmic names-Mars, Vega, Libra, etc. We drove by a winery with music Sunday afternoons that we made a note of. We passed by the official location to obtain the stamp for Greenleaf State Recreation Area and we got our stamp. Actual visit will be on Sunday.

Monson Lake State Park

First real stop Monson Lake, a small state park dedicated to the memory of several European immigrants killed in the Dakota War of 1862. A story told before in our blogs, but this park was the site of the deaths of 13 members of two families. There is a small marker here. Fishing and camping are the highest uses here, not a memorable spot for our type of park activity. We drove the short distance to New London MN and had lunch at a downtown restaurant, McKale’s Family Restaurant.

View from Mount Tom at Sibley State Park

Sibley State Park was next, a park we had visited in the past. Notable for Mount Tom, a high point in the surrounding area, this park offers a fuller range of activities. As we went to the top with its viewpoint, we discovered biting bugs of some nature were out. Sunday when we visited Glacial Lakes, only fifty miles away and with the same weather, no biting bugs were encountered.This park offers nice hikes and the beach along the shore of Andrew Lake provides a pleasant respite to sit and watch the lake.The park was busy. The ranger signed our Passport Club book and filled out the paperwork for our plaque. She wanted to chat a bit more to congratulate us on completing the visit of parks but we did not want to slow down the campers waiting in line. (Technically we did not have to visit the park on Sunday to complete our Pasport Club Book, Sibley would have completed the requirements.)

While at Sibley, I saw this guy taking pictures of the bathrooms (from the outside) and he said I was probably wondering why he was doing so. I was. He organizes the Tour of Minnesota Bike Ride; as they state: “Welcome to the Tour of Minnesota formerly the Klobuchar Bike Ride. The Tour of Minnesota is in our 44th year and the ride will be June 15th – 22nd, 2018. We will start in Willmar, ride to Morris, Fergus Falls, Alexandria with a day off in Alexandria, Little Falls, St. Cloud and back to Willmar. We will meet on June 15th at the Willmar Civic Center. I would estimate the daily mileage will range from 45 miles to about 70 miles with an average daily mileage of about 55 miles even though the route is not complete.” He was at Sibley to plan the 2018 trip and the pictures become part of the tour guide to help him and riders know where they will be riding and what they will encounter. Chris and I are more recreational riders but any of you who might be interested should check out their website for the 2018 ride. http://www.tourofminnesota.com

Spicer MN was the site of our night’s lodging at a newly constructed Hampton Inn which offers bike rentals to its guests. Good information for next time. Both New London and Spicer were well-kept communities with a population of about 1200-1400. We have friends from our college days living in Spicer and had dinner at their home. They had previously been living in St. Paul but after retirement decided to move to Spicer; both have family connections in the area.

Sunday our destination was Glacial Lakes State Park. On our way there, we passed through Belgrade Minnesota and our attention was grabbed by a large statue of a crow. The Middle Fork of the Crow River rises near Belgrade and the town has constructed a memorial park to honor “who we are, what we are doing, and where we are going”. Each state’s flag flies, the picnic tables fly the flags of the seven countries (Germany, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Ireland, Poland, and Czechoslovakia) sending early settlers to this area, and then the flags of Canada and local civic groups such as the Lions and VFW are flown. The walls have bricks memorializing local residents as well as school superintendents, local pastors, veterans, county road crew members, scouts, etc. The crow is 18 feet high and weighs 3,000 pounds.

Glacial Lakes State Park

Normally when I think of Minnesota lakes, I think “Up North”, that area generally north of a line drawn through St. Cloud. However, this area of west-central Minnesota is south of that line and yet is well populated with numerous lakes, generally created by glacial action. The ranger at Glacial Lakes was not as busy and took our picture. I complained to her about the new MN DNR maps/descriptive handouts for each park that while providing larger and easier type to read, have deleted most of the background information about the park-its history, geology, wildlife, etc. They have dumbed down the information. Their new publication listing all MN State Parks is in a different format also. Rather than the 4″ x 9″ folded booklet, there is a large map with the location and list of the parks. I think it is a mistake, the map is difficult to read easily and again, has less information about each park on it. Oh, if I was in charge everything would be perfect. We hiked around a lake, noting kame (cone-shaped hills), kettles (water-filled depressions), and eskers (“a long ridge of gravel and other sediment, typically having a winding course, deposited by meltwater from a retreating glacier or ice sheet).

Fall foliage has been relatively poor. The greatest color has come from shrubbery. A few trees were brilliant, most had not changed or were a dull color. Once again, we are seeing better fall foliage here in the Twin Cities. Last weekend we visited Nerstrand State Park (not for the first time) and the colors there were blah. The brilliant colors at the heading for this blog were taken last fall in St. Paul.

Greenleaf State Recreation Area

After Glacial Lakes, we visited Greenleaf State Recreation Area. Greenleaf was authorized in 2003 but the property is small and development has been spotty due to low funding. It is only a day use area with no facilities but six other people were at the lake access area, more than we have seen sometimes at small state parks. We left Greenleaf in time to visit Crow Wing Winery just east of Hutchinson (14,000 people). The winery is heavy into Minnesota grapes; grapes developed by the University of Minnesota to fare well in our colder climate. A guitarist was playing and we had onion rings and a great pizza to go with our pop. Our final stop was at the Apple House affiliated with the University of Minnesota Arboretum. We picked up an apple pie to bake at home; I was not in the mood to make another apple crisp-maybe later this week.

At Glacial Lakes State Park

Another good journey and a successful conclusion to our 2.5 year odyssey to visit all MN state parks. We would highly recommend the experience to others.

Ed and Chris October 10, 2017

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2016 Minnesota State Parks: Water and Woods

Friday, November 4, 2016 Saint Paul

The St. Croix River, looking into Wisconsin

The St. Croix River, looking into Wisconsin

This was a three-day, two night swing to cover six state parks. Chris has a goal of seeing almost all 76 state parks in three years. So far, we are sixteen months into the project and have visited 57 of 76 state parks. One state park is only accessible by boat and we do not have a boat. Fall colors are past peak. (For those of you unfamiliar with this, in the fall deciduous trees shed their leaves after the leaves turn red, orange, yellow and shades in between. This is not the scientific explanation, but the simplistic explanation of what we see. The vibrancy of the colors and actual dates of coloration vary from year to year. In general, this fall was spectacular.) For early in November, the weather was perfect. Ten to twenty degrees warmer than usual. Bright blue skies. Plenty of rainfall earlier so rivers are still running strong.

The six parks are no more than 100 miles apart. For this journey, we stayed somewhat in the center of the region at the Grand Casino at Mille Lacs Lake. How could we not? The mid-week, off-season rate was only $40 per night!. The indoor pool was large and the spa could hold 21, if that many actually showed up. We went to the spa and pool both days, at 4-6 PM it was practically empty. At 8-9 PM, there were maybe 20 people, 1/3 kids. Recognize that the casino is run by the Mille Lacs Band of Ojibwe. There is smoking in the casino (although our room was non-smoking.), there is no alcohol (fine by us), and no ADA compliant entrance/egress into the pool or spa. We ate at the buffet both nights and the food was tasty. Good choice for lodging.

Hiking through the woods at Wild River State Park

Hiking through the woods at Wild River State Park

So, on to the parks, the reason for the trip. Tuesday we drove to Wild River State Park, only 60 miles from our house. Wild River is along the St. Croix River, one of the eight rivers originally protected under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. About 70% of the land was donated by Northern States Power Company. Pre-state park days, great swaths of northern Minnesota pine trees were the source of lumbering with great fortunes made. The St. Croix was a transportation route for shipping the cut logs downriver to sawmills. At a point in the park, a dam was constructed to control the logs and to help enhance a hydroelectric power plant downstream. NSP ended up owning the land and when the dam here was not needed to control logs or for the hydro plant, they were willing to donate the land to the state. Thus, the park is long and narrow, along the banks of the river.

Inside the park, alternating areas of tallgrass prairie, mixed hardwoods forest (that replaced the cut pines), and oak savannah plains intermingle. We hiked primarily along the river, overtaking and then being overtaken by a group of six people who seem to hike here regularly. We did not see boaters today but the river itself was flowing fast and we could hear it gurgle as it swept into and then around small rock islands. It appears that horse back riding has ended for the season so those trails were quiet and it is too soon for cross-country skiing and snow shoeing. Hikers seemed to have the park to themselves today.

From Wild River we headed west to Mille Lacs Lake. Mille Lacs is shallow, only about 40 foot maximum but it is the second largest lake in Minnesota. It is about 14 miles wide and about 19 miles long. It was formed when the glaciers retreated and at the point where the end moraine of one glacial lobe created a ridge blocking most water from flowing out. The park is named after Father Louis Hennepin, a French Franciscan Recollect priest-explorer. Father Hennepin came to Mille Lacs Lake after Native Americans captured him and two fellow explorers in 1679 hundreds of miles south along the Mississippi River and brought him to Mille Lacs Lake. Eventually he was released and returned to France. Mille Lacs was a gathering, hunting, and fishing location for Native Americans for hundreds of years. It is still home to many Native Americans. The casino here is on reservation land. The State of Minnesota and Indian tribes have a mutual agreement over fishing rights to Mille Lacs under treaties dating back to the 1800s, although Governor Dayton this summer unilaterally broke the mutually agreed upon 2016 limit for walleye which did not endear him to the Indian tribes.

At Father Hennepin State Park, looking at the two islands comprising the national wildlife refuge

At Father Hennepin State Park, looking at the two islands comprising the national wildlife refuge

Father Hennepin Park is small, located on the south shore of Mille Lacs Lake, and is not even where he is thought to have been held but it still represents the early exploration period in Minnesota. On the lake are two small islands which are the smallest national wildlife refuges in the country. The two islands are the nesting and breeding grounds for the common tern. We walked along the shore, out to a headland jutting out into the lake. After Father Hennepin, we drove a short distance to Mille Lacs Kathio State Park, located along the southwest corner of Mille Lacs Lake. Mille Lacs Kathio is much larger, about 10,000 acres. The naming of the park takes after names from the Dakota Indians for the “Sacred Lake”. The Dakota lived here before the Ojibwe replaced them in this area in the 1800s. The word Kathio comes from poor translations by the French of Dakota words.

We have been to Mille Lacs Kathio before, both to cross-country ski and to geo-cache and to hike with Bernie and Tony. Our stay here was brief, daylight was drawing to a close. Grand Casino Mille Lacs is just a few miles away so we checked in and enjoyed the spa and buffet.

Looking down on Cuyuna Country Recreation Area from one overlook

Looking down on Cuyuna Country Recreation Area from one overlook

Thursday morning we drove an hour to visit a new type of state park. Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area is new, technically becoming a park in 1993. However, it took almost twenty years before it became a major recreational site. The 5,000+ acres were home to open-pit iron ore mining. The area was abandoned by mining companies over thirty years ago and the park specializes in mountain biking. Over 25 miles of trails will challenge the mountain bike rider with a new trail center to allow for competitions to be held here.

Cuyuna Country with mining waste hill to right

Cuyuna Country with mining waste hill to right

Cuyuna has 21 lakes, 15 of which are former iron ore mines. The water is clear now and scuba diving has found a home here along with fishing. Vegetation is now prevalent on the abandoned hills of mining waste; although the red rock roads and hills are stark reminders of the iron ore geology. Hiking is not a major focus here although one state trail goes through the park. After mistaking exploring back roads of private property next to the park, we viewed the park from the water level and then again from the top of two overlooks. There were just a few mountain bikers out; I guess most were in school. The trails certainly seemed challenging enough. They did not tempt us to try to rent a mountain bike, we will leave that for the more agile and adventurous.

"Main Street" of Old Crow Wing with Mississippi River just to the left

“Main Street” of Old Crow Wing with Mississippi River just to the left

Crow Wing State Park is thirty miles from Cuyuna and is much more your typical state park. Crow Wing was a gathering place at the confluence of the Crow Wing and Mississippi Rivers. The Dakota and Ojibwe gathered here in settlements. The Red River Oxcart Trail had one branch traveling through this area. This trail was the major trading route between St. Paul and Winnipeg. Fur traders and missionaries began a settlement here and the logging industry in Minnesota kept the town prosperous until the railroads laid their tracks through the neighboring community of Brainerd and Crow Wing as a town dried up.

Hiking along the old Red River Oxcart Trail

Hiking along the old Red River Oxcart Trail

At Crow Wing we were able to view the old town site, lined along the banks where the two rivers meet. A recreated boardwalk and building foundations give one a sense of life here 160 or so years ago. Canoeists on the river replaced the thousands of pine logs that would have floated down the river to sawmills downstream. A hike through the woods demonstrated the sandy soil of much of the area which keeps the trails dry. The hike presented a peaceful way to end the outdoor part of the day. The spa and buffet took care of the indoor portion.

Friday we headed east for 70 miles, back to the St. Croix River which forms much of the Minnesota-Wisconsin northern border. St. Croix State Park at 33,000 acres is our largest park. The St. Croix is joined here by the Kettle River, both active rivers duirng the lumbering period of the late 1800s. Most of the land was purchased when homesteaders tried, and failed, to make a living farming on the cut-over logging land. The Civilian Conservation Corps and Works Progress Administration constructed many of the park facilities still in use.

Hiking along the Kettle River at St. Croix State Park

Hiking along the Kettle River at St. Croix State Park

It took us 30 minutes of driving inside the park to reach our first destination; an overlook touting the “Head of the Rapids”. For once, it was more hype than reality. We retraced our steps partially and went for a nice hike along the Kettle River, spotting our second bald eagle of this trip. We checked out the camper cabins but they appeared to be less modern than my taste prefers. We also wasted time trying to get Chris’ State Park Passport book stamped. Normally there is a ranger at the main office or visitor center; when there is none, some form of outside stand will hold the stamps along with self registration and entrance fee paperwork. Neither option presented itself to us, despite returning to the office several times, stopping a carpenter who was working on a building, and driving through the staff only area in search of a ranger. We finally left and just wrote in the book: We Were Here-Really.

St. Croix is only 90 minutes from home so it was an easy drive back. Interstate 35 northbound was busy; Saturday was the first day of deer hunting season and the boys and their toys were gunning up the highway to be in place before the season started 30 minutes before dawn.

Ed and Chris

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