Posts Tagged With: Lake Powell

2021 Southwest Circle Tour-June 11

Cedar Breaks National Monument

Brian Head UT, Friday June 11, 2011

Flagstaff had been the purpose of our trip, to visit with Lou and Joyce once again after the pandemic had begun to diminish. The trip home will take us eight days as we head north and then east. Our first day mainly retraced portions of the country we had seen before, except for one section in southern Utah. Despite this, we encountered some surprises and long periods of great scenery.

The first surprise came as we approached Page AZ. Horseshoe Bend, a well known bend in the Colorado River south of Page, seemed to have a new entrance facility. Long lines of cars were backed up to visit the site. The river is about 1,000 feet down and it takes a hike of over a mile to reach the observation overlook. My advice, go to Goosenecks State Park in Utah. Shorter walk, deeper canyon, more bends, fewer people.

Second surprise-Lake Powell is at a record low. Glen Canyon dam was finished in 1963 and by 1966 Lake Powell was in operation. Today the water level is at its lowest depth since 1966. The resolution of this issue of decreasing water supply and increasing water usage is beyond me. Come see Lake Powell while you can.

Lake Powell and Wahweap marina

Our trip continued along US 89 through more desert country until we stopped in Kanab Utah for lunch at a local park. The park was very nice with great red rock backgrounds. It was only tonight in our hotel room that we did some research on Kanab. Kanab comes from the Paiute word meaning “place of the willows”. Kanab is very conservative and in the early 2000s faced much backlash from travelers about its stance on marriage and family practices.

The primary destination for the day was Cedar Breaks National Monument. We were here once before and Chris loved the scenery. We decided to plan our return trip to include it. Cedar Breaks is at an elevation of over 10,000 feet and was constituted as a national monument in 1933. The monument preserves an area created over millions of year from limestone uplifted by a natural fault and eroded by ice, water, and wind. The scenery is spectacular and the monument is not crowded. Wildflowers are just beginning to come out in the prairie and along trails.

Cedar Breaks National Monument
Wildflowers at Cedar Breaks

Hiking at 10,000 feet above sea level is not a primary activity for us but today we hiked the Alpine Pond trail. The trail is in the shape of a figure eight and due to the elevation (it starts out at 10,460 feet), we only hiked one of the loops. They classify the hike as easy to moderate and it probably is. But, still, with an elevation gain of 200 feet and rocky trails, we were tired when we completed it.

Alpine Pond

The Alpine Pond is one highlight. The water leaving the pond flows out to the Great Basin many miles to the west. Great Basin is a national park in east central Nevada that we have not visited yet. At Cedar Breaks, the forest is sub-alpine, with predominantly fir and spruce. The spruce trees have faced a major die-off from bark beetles starting back in the mid-1990s. It will take a long time for the forest to regenerate. There are some Bristlecone pines here, one of the longest living life forms on earth.

Some of the dying trees

Not far from Cedar Breaks is Brian Head, the mountain and town. The mountain peak is at 11,300 feet. The town is basically a ski resort but it had the closest lodging to Cedar Breaks that made sense for us. We are staying at a very nice Best Western and ate at its sit down restaurant. There are not too many other eating options in town.

As I mentioned, a number of sites along today’s journey have been visited before. May 12, 2013 our first sighting of Bristlecone pine in CA. May 10-15 of 2014 when we spent a week house boating on Lake Powell. May 31-June 4, 2016 when we visited the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, and Cedar Breaks. (Cedar Breaks still had snow on the ground at that visit.) May 31, 2018 when we stopped at Horseshoe Bend.

Tomorrow we head north and will be visiting more of Utah, Wyoming, Montana and North Dakota.

Ed Heimel, Chris Klejbuk Brian Head UT June 11, 2021

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2014 Trip Four, May 15-16, The Southwest

Tuesday May 20 Moab Utah for Thursday and Friday May 15-16, Lake Powell and Page AZ

The Great Adventure came to an end. We agreed it was more of an adventure than a vacation. The vistas were great, the hikes enjoyable, Rainbow Bridge a delight, the narrow canyons by powerboat a thrilling adventure, and the food and camaderie could not be beat. But, the nervousness over uncertain tasks to be accomplished, the suspense over the anchoring, and the unexpected hard work removed it from the vacation category. We certainly stretched our personal boundaries, successfully.

Dawn broke early with clear skies foretelling a great day ahead. Smooth sailing was forecast. The early morning was spent cleaning up, packing, and getting ready to unmoor. The powerboat had to be removed from the back of the houseboat and beached before we could take off. The four anchors had to be undug and stowed on the boat. Manning had to be taken for his last walk.

Joyce at the helm

Joyce at the helm

Once the powerboat was beached, Lou pushed up the gangplank on the houseboat and Joyce revved up the houseboat motors and shoved it in to reverse. We were unbeached. Lou had the chore of pushing the powerboat off the beach, hopping on board and then maneuvering it into position behind the houseboat where it was once again tethered and towed behind us. We were heading back to Wahweap Marina.

We left about 10:30 and arrived at 1:30. Maneuvering through the channels was a bit easier for Joyce; she even gave Lou a lesson on driving the houseboat. Wislely we called again for a pilot to come out and bring the boat in for re-fueling and then anchoring at the dock.

Maning with his life jacket

Maning with his life jacket


Our last looks were from an overlook of Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon dam. The dam was constructed over ten years, 1956 to 1966. 17 workers died during construction. The purpose of the dam is to impound water to control downstream flooding, water storage for the southwest and hydroelectric power. It took another 17 years for the water to rise to full levels. At full level, the lake depth is 560 feet at the dam.

Lake Powell is the second largest man-made lake in the U.S. It is 186 miles long with 1,960 miles of shoreline. There are 96 major canyons to explore. The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area encompasses 1.25 million acres, the lake is only 13% of the total.

We had to be off the boat by 3:30 and waiitng for the pilot and re-fueling took a while. We had gotten lazy and enjoyed the ride back so we still had to pack up the food, etc. But we made the deadline and then it was off. Joyce and Lou to the Lake Powell Resort where we spent Thursday night. Ed and Chris first to a drugstore to get medications for a cold and sore throat Ed picked up Wednesday. After four long hot showers we had an excellent dinner with alcohol at the resort restaurant.

Dinner

Dinner

Friday morning was departure day. Ed and Chris made a stop at Urgent Care (got there when they opened) to determine if Ed had strep throat. Ed did not. Then we did laundry and had breakfast.

Given Ed’s cold and sore throat, and Joyce’s not feeling well, we decided to pass up the jeep tour of the Antelope Canyon. This is supposedly one of the most photographed slot canyons in the US. We will have to make it another time.

Our next several days will be a bit more relaxed due to Ed’s cold and sore throat so if the narrative is skimpier than usual you will understand.

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend

We did spend a while hiking to Horseshoe Bend, a spot south of Page where the Colorado River makes, what else, a horseshoe bend. Our photo is not perfect. I was not willing to lean over the edge to get a spectacular photo.

Our next three nights will be at Monument Valley, a Navajo Nation Tribal Park. The drive was only a few hours and the hotel is noted for its views of the valley. Monument Valley is named for the numerous stone outcroppings located here. You will see many pictures in the days ahead.

Monument Valley at dusk

Monument Valley at dusk

Ed and Chris Moab May 20 8:45 AM

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Thursday May 15 Page AZ and back on the grid-somewhat.

It has been a week since we last posted anything. I will try to get caught up over time. It may be hit or miss. We are staying tonight at the Lake Powell resort right by the marina where we rented the houseboat. The hotel only has internet in the lobby and my hotspot is still slow-but operational. The lodging for the next three nights is in Monument Valley Utah/Arizona and I am not sure internet connections will be better.

We thought houseboating on Lake Powell would be an adventure. We got it-and more. Yes, we thoroughly had a great time but it was work and nervousness also. I hope I can do the full story justice. It may come out in bits and pieces over several postings as we get caught up to a week without internet.

WE rented a houseboat at Wahweap Marina, part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation area formed by the construction of the Glen Canyon dam completed in 1966. The damming of the Colorado River has created the second largest reservoir in the US. The reservoir,Lake Powell, has created a water mecca in the middle of the desert. (No ecological or environmental analyses today.)

Our trip was born of a conversation early last winter as Chris and I were planning another southwest US trip. We mentioned our thoughts to Lucien and Joyce, who live in Phoenix, and we agreed on a joint adventure. Boy, there was no way Chris and I could have done this by ourselves. Lou did a wonderful job talking to colleagues who have done this and researching options. We ended up getting a great, pre-summer price on a 53′ boat that is the top of the economy line. (Picture on May 8 posting.) There were two staterooms, two bathrooms, two refrigerators and two lower level sleeping areas. There was a combined kitchen/living room, upper deck, and decks on the aft and stern ends of the boat.

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

We did our homework. We practiced tying boating knots. We read reviews and made lists of the items we should bring with us. We had pie tins prepared to run the anchor ropes through to prevent mice and shore critters from running up the anchor ropes and getting on board the boat. We agreed we would also rent a powerboat to more easily go exploring in narrow canyons. Joyce was designated captain since she had experience driving powerboats-although not houseboats. Joyce worked up the menu and Lou and Joyce brought most of the food and supplies. A colleague of Lou and his wife, Dave and Toni, agreed to join us for the weekend. They had boated here before and provided not only great companionship but also technical knowledge.

Another member of our group was Manning, Lou and Joyce’s new Corgi. He behaved fantastically. Took to the houseboat, powerboat, romping on the sandy beach and rocky areas alike. Never made a mess, was quiet, well-behaved but never fully warmed up to Chris and Ed.

along lake Powell

along lake Powell

Dave and Toni arrived at 8 am Friday and by 8:30 we were receiving our instructions. All of us listened in to share the knowledge. The gas tank had not been topped off so it necessitated a stop at the fueling station before we headed out. Ah, heading out. Wisely Joyce decided to opt for the free pilot services to get the boat out of the dock. Even the pilot bumped a few things and it gave Joyce some experience in observing how to handle tight corners. The pilot gets a ride back to the dock once the boat is past the breakwater. The power boat is picked up separately and Lou and Dave drove that out to the breakwater, tied it to the rear of the houseboat and we were off around 11 AM.

Along  Lake Powell

Along Lake Powell

The views were breathtaking. Canyon walls are all around you. The width of the channel varies, sometimes narrow leading to driving challenges to avoid other boaters. Sometimes the channel is wide with coves and bays leading off of it and despite periodic marker buoys, you are constantly using binoculars to spot the main channel ahead. There are also areas where you have to slow down, to avoid creating wakes in marinas or narrow channels.

Along Lake powell

Along Lake powell

Initially we thought about “beaching” the houseboat in two or three locations during the week we had it. Our first spot had to be relatively close to the marina since we had to return Dave and Toni on Sunday afternoon. It is 150 miles on the Lake from first to last marina. Gunsight Bay was our first choice, only about 20 miles from Wahweap. The houseboat goes about 8-10 miles per hour. The optimal location would be on the west side of the bay, protected from winds, and several turns into the bay to protect from waves on the main channel. It had to be rockless, room to anchor, shallow enough to beach the boat but without getting stuck in mud, and it had to be available-other boaters are out and have the same goals. After three hours, we lucked out with a spot at the very end of Gunsight Bay.

Houseboat beached

Houseboat beached

“Beaching’ the boat involves several steps. After the captain rams the boat onto the shore, the crew gets to go dig holes. Four anchors have to be placed in holes three feet deep and several feet long and wide. Two anchors are to be at about 45 degree angles and two anchors at about 60 degree angles. They have to be placed far enough on shore to avoid rising waters. (The sand was heavy and rocks were abundant.) Wind and storms come up frequently and pull at the boat.

View from our beached  houseboat site

View from our beached houseboat site

The anchoring of the boat was Chris’ biggest concern during the week. The lake level rose each night as snow melt from the Colorado mountains came down river. We had wind gusts of 35 mph Saturday and Sunday night that pulled at the boat, making it sway in the wind. Over the week’s period, we dug new holes once for each anchor to move it higher up the shore. Chris’ frequent mantra was “This is outside of my comfort zone.”

The Friday night meal was hamburgers cooked on the grill on the bow of the boat.

Ed and Chris Friday May 16 11:15 AM

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Page AZ May 9

Well I am trying for pictures here. Still at dock. We shall see what happens.

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Red Mesa AZ

Red Mesa AZ

Two pics ok, then it slowed down.
Ed 6 am

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