Posts Tagged With: Joshua Tree National Park

2014 Trip 7, Nov. 23, So. Cal and Thanksgiving in Flagstaff

Sunday, November 23, Twentynine Palms, CA

Hello from Joshua Tree National Park

Hello from Joshua Tree National Park

After breakfast and church, we spent the rest of the day hiking in Joshua Tree National Park, ending the day chasing the sunset as we hurried along the last hike to make sure we were out before dark. We did have a flashlight and we made it okay, although Chris stopped to talk to two young women as we were close to the end of the trail. They were just heading out for a quick walk on the second half of the trail and she offered them our flashlight. But they were prepared also; prepared with a flashlight and prepared to good-naturedly accept a mom’s advice to be careful on the trail.

The Oasis of Mara at Joshua Tree National Park

The Oasis of Mara at Joshua Tree National Park

The first hike was a short one; out to see the Oasis of Mara. The oasis was an important stop of The Butterfield Overland Mail route. This route was the first mail by stage from Memphis and St. Louis to San Francisco and began in 1858. (It also passed through the Anza-Borrego desert.) It was longer than a route through Denver and Salt Lake City but was pretty much snow free. The oasis has several fan palm trees; Joshua Tree NP has five such oases for these trees, the only palm trees native to the U.S. (Reality check-population growth in the area has lowered the aquifer at the oasis and the Park Service now pumps in water to keep the oasis thriving.)

There is a little bit of water behind the Barker Dam

There is a little bit of water behind the Barker Dam

area along the Barker Dam hike

area along the Barker Dam hike

Barker Dam was our second hike. A dam had been constructed here around 1900. We hiked out and there was a little water in the pond; like Lake Mead or Lake Powell, one could observe the rings on the rocks around the pond indicating how high the water had been previously. The trail goes through the rock formations and across open land with yuccas and Joshua trees. Towards the end of the trail are petroglyphs. However, these were painted over by a Disney crew years ago to make them more visible for the film that was shot here. At least I know I am not the only one who has trouble to get petroglyphs to be visible in pictures.

Hidden Valley at Joshua Tree National Park

Hidden Valley at Joshua Tree National Park

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley was next. Hidden Valley was another of those areas supposedly beloved by cattle rustlers. It was evident why it might have been. The valley is not reachable except for one opening and it has a water source. The rock walls are high around the valley and provide natural visual obstruction from prying eyes. Trees and shrubs magically seem to grow in the middle of the rocks, finding some little bit of dirt to bury their roots in.

We headed back to Cap Rock in a vain attempt to find a “shrine”. In preparing yesterday’s post, I came across an item that a “shrine” to Graham Parsons, a singer who died of a drug overdose in 1973 at a motel in the town of Joshua Tree, was located on the north side of Cap Rock. A friend and road manager stole the body and cremated it near Cap Rock in the park. We did not see anything like that on our hike yesterday and on our return visit today, we still did not find it. We even checked out two other nearby rock formations. Nada. Not a problem, I had never heard of Graham Parsons prior to yesterday anyway.

Skull Rock

Skull Rock

Skull rok hike

Skull rock hike

Our last hike was Skull Rock. (You need a vivid imagination to consider this rock formation a skull.) We started the hike at 3:30 which should be plenty of time to finish a two-mile hike by sunset. But, rocks and enjoying the vistas took us up to 4:20 to finish the hike. We did wait for the sun to finish setting before we headed back to the motel.

Dinner was at a small mom and pop type restaurant with cheap, comfort food that was quite tasty and met our needs.

Ed and Chris 11/23 9 PM

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2014 Trip 7, Nov. 22, So. Cal and Thanksgiving in Flagstaff

Twentynine Palms, CA Saturday Nov. 22

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park. Back in the desert today. This desert looks different from the others, there is more fractured rock piles than we have seen elsewhere, and along with the Joshua trees, makes for an interesting visit.

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree was made a National Monument in the 1930s and upgraded to a National Park in the 1990s. Those pesky Californians were taking plants from the desert for their homes and a wealthy woman from LA began the successful push to make this area into a National Monument. Joshua Tree NP, like the other deserts we have seen lately, has low (below 3,000 feet elevation) and high (above 3,000 feet elevation) desert. The Joshua tree (actually a species of yucca plant) thrives more at the high desert elevation. We saw one species of Joshua tree in the Mojave Desert, the ones here are not the same. I will spare the details of the differences.

We left Escondido by 9:15, expecting a three-hour drive. It only took two, all freeway type driving. We had a 1:45 p.m. deadline to attend a two-hour ranger led tour of Keys Ranch. Only 25 people per tour, only 3 tours per week. Our first choice for Friday was already filled, thus necessitating our change in plans, spending two nights around Joshua Tree, and skipping El Centro and Yuma. Some have said skipping those two results in no real loss.

Cap  Rock area

Cap Rock area

Cap Rock area

Cap Rock area

Given the drive, early sunsets, and tour, we had no major other goals for the day. Arriving early allowed us to stop in the visitor center and see their film. Then we headed to Cap Rock picnic area for a short hike and lunch (yup, PBJ sandwiches). At Cap Rock, and elsewhere, fault lines and weathering over millennia have created these rock piles, in the midst of otherwise flat landscapes. We saw numerous rock climbers, this is a destination site for rock climbing with climbing schools and guides in the area.

Keys Ranch at Joshua Tree National Park

Keys Ranch at Joshua Tree National Park

Our tour was at Keys Ranch. Bill and Frances Keys were among the few successful homesteaders in the area. The ranch is preserved and only accessible through docent or ranger led tours. The ranch’s history dates back to mining days in the 1800s when prospectors dug numerous mines in this expanse of wilderness. For a time, two brothers ran a cattle operation here that was supposedly more rustling than ranching.

For a while, ranching became a big business also. We were told that in the early 1900s, rainfall averaged 10 inches a year, enough to provide abundant grassland. Overgrazing and a series of droughts pretty much killed off the grass and the cattle ranching. Current annual rainfall is in the 2-4 inches per year range.

Before buying the ranch, Bill Keys began as the manager of the ranch and a prospector. Frances married him when she was 31 and came to his “beautiful” desert ranch sight unseen. They had 8 children, four survived to adulthood, 3 of them still living. The Keys survived by acquiring water rights and damming up pools of water; creating fertile gardens with manure,etc; leasing out prospecting rights (gold) to other miners; renting cabins to miners and WWI vets; and running a gold processing mill for the other miners.

Part of the scrap yard

Part of the scrap yard

another portion of the scrap yard

another portion of the scrap yard

Being a goodly distance from civilization, Bill learned multiple trades and kept a home-made salvage yard for necessary parts. He built part of his dams and retaining walls with granite, making the granite fit by manually drilling holes and inserting water-soaked burlap and wood (which would expand in the heat) into the holes to fracture the rock along the lines he needed. Frances “bribed” other parents to send their kids (otherwise busy doing chores around their own ranches) with fresh fruit and vegetables so there would be enough school children to justify a county paid school teacher.

Sunset view

Sunset view

Sunset view

Sunset view

Sunset view

Sunset view

The tour did not last the entire two hours so we had time to drive down to Keys View, at an elevation of 5100 feet providing an almost 360 degree view. We could observe the smog rolling in from L.A. through the pass in the mountains that Interstate 10 takes. We were able to view the Salton Sea (more on that in a day or two) to the south. We could view San Jacinto Mountain to the west, site of our hiking from the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway a few days ago. And, we were able to view large numbers of people who had also gathered here to watch the sunset and take pictures.

Dinner was at a nice restaurant attached to a local inn. It was refreshing to have a relaxing, fancy dinner for a change.

Ed and Chris Sunday Nov. 22 7 AM

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