Posts Tagged With: Grand Canyon

2018 Trip 4: Arizona: May 30

Page, Arizona. Wednesday May 30

Lower Antelope Canyon, Page AZ

Chris and I were the good ones, getting up at 4:15 A.M. to view a Grand Canyon sunrise. Frankly, we should have stayed in bed. It was alright, but not dramatic. Too many clouds and not much red and orange to make the sunrise stand out. Still, we were proud of ourselves for getting up and walking to the Trail View Overlook for the sunrise.

Sunrise at Grand Canyon, Trail View Overlook

Bright Angel trail from South Rim Grand Canyon top; bottom hikers just starting out on trail.

Trail View Overlook is on the Hermits Rest rim trail. Cars are not allowed there most of the year; you either walk or take the shuttle. Hermit’s Rest juts out into the canyon so it is a good trail to use for sunrise viewing. Trail View is named because you can look down onto Bright Angel Trail, the trail taken by mules and most people hiking on the trail. Readers of the blog have read that I have vertigo now so walking along that trail is just not something on my agenda. Even at 5 AM we saw people beginning the hike. It usually takes twice as long to hike back up as it does to go down. You can choose just to walk a short portion, no pressure to do it all.

A departing view of Grand Canyon

The four of us had breakfast and left a little before ten on our drive to Page, AZ. We stopped at two other overlooks on the way out. The view can change from stopping point to stopping point. Views of the Colorado River are infrequent; it is a mile down and the canyon is 10 to 12 miles wide here. The canyon twists and turns and canyon walls and lesser eroded walls block your view. During the 24 hours we were here, and including sunrise and sunset, I did not find the canyon as colorful as is frequently portrayed in paintings and photographs. Outstanding and awe-inspiring, yes.

On the drive to Page we stopped at McAllister’s Deli at Cameron. This interchange in the middle of nowhere has been improved with a roundabout and new restaurants and gas stations. Our destination was to reach Ken’s Tours at Lower Antelope Canyon by 2 PM. There are tours for Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon. Both are located on Navajo reservation land and the guides are Navajo. We prefer the Lower Antelope tours since: a. You do not have to ride an open air Jeep on dusty roads to reach the canyon; b. The walk through the canyon is one-way, you do not have to jostle and deal with people coming at you in order to take your photos.

The tour takes an hour to an hour and a half. The canyon is formed by rushing waters after the monsoon season (July and August) rains erode away the sandstone. It is called a slot canyon, it is wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. As you walk through, watching for low overhangs and protruding walls, you are amazed by the wavy designs and formations observable all around you. There are also metal stairs that must be dealt with as you enter and a few times through the canyon.

Chris and I had been here once before, it was the first time for Deb and Rebecca. My words are poor efforts to describe the effect, I will allow pictures to paint the view for you.

Dinner was at Bonkers, a local restaurant with very good food. All of us were pleased, with the meal and the chocolate desserts.

Chris, Ed, Rebecca, Deb at Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antleope Canyon

Lower Antleope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon, Page AZ

Ed and Chris. June 1

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2018 Trip 4: Arizona: May 29

Grand Canyon, AZ. Tuesday May 29

Grand Canyon with the Colorado River from Desert View Watchtower at Grand Canyon National Park

It was a glorious day for visiting the Grand Canyon. Our plan had been to leave Flagstaff, drive through the San Francisco Peaks and Coconino Forest to enter Grand Canyon through the South Entrance. Reviewing the park’s web site made us switch plans. Road construction inside the park and summer attendance were forecast to cause delays in reaching the park. Instead, we drove north to Cameron and then west to enter through the East Entrance at Desert View Watchtower. I had been reluctant to go this route because we will leave the park through this gate Wednesday. It is our preference to view as much different territory as possible on our trips. Later on Tuesday we encountered the road construction and it verified the wisdom of using the East Entrance.

The drive up from Flagstaff begins with numerous inactive/extinct volcanoes on either side of the road. As we progressed north, the trees and volcanoes disappeared to be replaced with scrub brush and rolling buttes and escarpments. The Little Colorado River joins the road just after our turnoff to the national park. We stopped at Cameron Trading Post about a mile past the turnoff for some lunch which we packed away for later. The road has been improved since we last drove here and a McAllisters Deli added at the junction of US 89 and AZ 64. It did not open until 10 AM though so we catch it for lunch Wednesday or Thursday.

Desert View Watchtower with Interior Native American Indian symbols

Our first stop in Grand Canyon National Park was at Desert View Watchtower. This building, and several others, were designed by Mary Coulter, a famous female architect and designer who worked for the Fred Harvey Company and Santa Fe Railroad for 38 years. She incorporated Native American Indian styles into much of her work. The Watchtower is 70 feet high with a stunning view of the landscape. She designed the building with a modern steel structure but an exterior of weathered looking stone. It has Native American symbols on the interior walls.

As our first stop, we took our time here. The crowds were not too bad. The views from outside on the overlooks and from inside the tower gave us a great introduction to the canyon and the Colorado River. The temperature was in the high 70s and sunny all day; it made for great walking and picture-taking. The drive to the main south rim area is 22 miles. We saw some elk along the way and stopped at a few overlooks.

The main visitor center has an excellent introductory film which we viewed along with a few other displays. We ate our lunch outside and then walked the two some miles from the visitor center at Mather Point to the El Tovar/Hopi Point area.

Another view from the rim walk


Along the way we took pictures, took pictures of other people with the canyon in the background, and just enjoyed the day. By now it was after 3 PM. Chris, Deb, and Rebecca walked along the rim a bit more and then headed over to Maswik Lodge to check in.

Grand Canyon

Along the rim walk at Grand Canyon

Waiting for sunset at Grand Canyon

If you are paying attention, you remember that the car is back at the visitor center. I tried to take the shuttle back to pick it up. As I waited at the shuttle bus stop, a construction worker (remember the road work?) told me that the shuttle no longer stops here due to the construction. No sign was posted to that effect. So I took the Greenway Trail, a pedestrian/biking path through the trees most of the way back to the visitor center before I was able to catch a shuttle. The construction has messed up the timing of shuttles too. The shuttle I took was jammed-I compared it to the shuttle buses we take to the MN State Fair. Everybody gets in to fill the bus and then 20 more people pack in.

The four of us separated for a while and then met up at dinner at the food court in Maswik Lodge. Sunset viewing is a big deal here, good spots are taken early. We chose to drive out to the Geology Museum at Yavapai Point, getting a good parking spot and a good viewing spot. Since we had over an hour to kill before sunset, individually we walked a bit, took some pictures, and talked to people. Deb spotted a young elk along the path, drinking from water pooled by a water fountain.

Chris and I spent fifteen minutes chatting with a ranger. She was feeling sore. Last night, she and her partner transported a prisoner to Flagstaff. On the return trip, a deer hit the patrol car. She was in the passenger seat where most of the impact was and the air bag deployment was a little rough.

Sunset and moon rise at Grand Canyon National Park

The crowds increased as sunset neared and we took more than our share of photos. Last night was also a full moon. We hung around to watch the moon rise before heading back to our room.

All in all, a grand day at the Grand Canyon.

Ed and Chris. May 30

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2016 Trip Four, Southwest Discoveries, June 2

North Rim, Grand Canyon, Arizona. June 2

Grand Canyon close to dusk

Grand Canyon close to dusk

Heresy. That’s what it is. After you look at the Grand Canyon for a while, you (us, anyway) say what’s next? Yes, it is deep and wide and has varied colors of rock. But we have seen so many great sights, that the hype of the Grand Canyon seems greater than its reality. Are we really so jaundiced in our view?

We will hold off on a full decision to determine how sunset and sunrise light affect the color of the rocks. I think, with no proof, that much of the color grandeur shown in photographs comes from varied lenses and filters used by the photographers.

Driving to Navajo Bridge at the Colorado River

Driving to Navajo Bridge at the Colorado River

Vermillion Cliffs

Vermillion Cliffs

We left Page AZ early this morning, on the road with breakfast by 8 AM. We wanted to fully enjoy the Grand Canyon views. The drive went down and around steep, high, dramatically red cliffs leading to the Colorado River crossing at Navajo Bridge (3500 feet above sea level); along the equally steep and colorful Vermillion Cliffs National Monument; climbing up to almost 9000 feet on the Kaibab Plateau and National Forest (ponderosa pine trees!); before finally descending to about 8000 feet at the various north rim overlooks.

Walking the 1929 Navajo Bridge

Walking the 1929 Navajo Bridge

Navajo Bridge crosses the Colorado River near Lee’s Crossing; the only place for hundreds of miles where the banks on both sides of the river allowed for relatively easy crossing. A ferry was operated by a Mormon settler fleeing the law for his role in the Mormon massacre of a non-Mormon wagon train in 1857. The ferry operated until the first Navajo bridge was completed in 1929. That first bridge is still in existence today for pedestrians and was the location for our pictures of the Colorado River here. A new bridge was completed in 1995 to allow for greater traffic and heavier loads.

After crossing the river on the bridge, we drove along and up the Vermillion Cliffs, a national wilderness area whose rocks show hues of red, white and blue. The road continued up into the Kaibab Plateau where we suddenly crossed a transition zone and were presented with larger juniper trees and then Ponderosa pine. The temperature cooled down (Page was to reach a high of 100 degrees).

Showing new growth in Kaibab Forest

Showing new growth in Kaibab Forest

When we reached the entrance station for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, it was only 11 AM. Our first viewing point was going to be at the end of the park drive at Cape Royal. We passed through areas burnt by the fire of 2006; new growth shows as a bright green contrast. At Cape Royal and again at Roosevelt Point, we went hiking along the rim and had our first views of the Canyon from this angle.

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

As noted in the first paragraph, the views are fine. Grand Canyon is amazing, just not our first preference for overwhelming. I am sure all of you have at least seen pictures of it. We are tossing in a few more.

View from Cape Royal at Grand Canyon

View from Cape Royal at Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon from Cape Royal

Grand Canyon from Cape Royal

Grand Canyon view from Roosevelt Trail

Grand Canyon view from Roosevelt Trail

Chris and Ed at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Chris and Ed at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

The park is full, but it is a very manageable size. Many of the visitors here had come from Zion previously and talked of the crowds at that park. We are in a “western” style cabin near the visitor center and Lodge. The Lodge is a gathering and feeding place, no accommodations are offered there. We had dinner in the main dining room with a window table providing views of the canyon below. A ranger gave a talk about the re-emergence of California condors and then sunset viewing wrapped up our day.

Ed and Chris

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