Posts Tagged With: Evergreen Club

2018 Trip Three: KY and TN: April 6-7

Columbia, SC. April 8

Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge, Georgia

Friday April 6
Driving Day. Hassle Day. Road Construction causing traffic delays Day. Unlike Atlanta, the delays and stop and go traffic, particularly in northern FL and southern GA were not caused solely by traffic but by road construction, stopped cars along the roadway, or roads narrowing from three lanes to two. Somehow, it made the delays easier to handle.

We were able to be on the road by 8 AM. Our destination for the day was Darien, GA. Nothing dramatic, just a location that did not push us too much on Friday and left us with a relatively short drive on Saturday. Our research had uncovered a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Refuge called Harris Neck that was only 20 miles past Darien. It was open until sunset and was our secondary target if tine would allow.

Anhinga at Harris Neck Wildlife Refuge, Georgia

Well we arrived at the refuge at 5:30 PM and it was a relaxing end to a harried day of driving. The refuge offers a driving route with several stops with views that might be worth stopping. The first stop was a beaut; we saw two alligators (one was a female with three young gators), an anhinga, two blue herons, and a large egret rookery full of white egrets. We drove the four mile route, stopping a few more times but no other stop rivaled that of the first one.

As mentioned, Darien was just an overnight stop. It appears that Darien has lost population, lost wealth, lost commercial establishments, etc. It is not far from Brunswick GA, which is a gateway to wealthy off-shore islands like St. Simons, Jekyll Island, etc. and the third largest port for roll-off containers in the U.S. Evidently, Darien is not sharing any spin-off business.

Saturday April 7
Saturday was a rainy day as we drove up to Columbia SC. Congaree National Park is just southeast of Columbia and was the primary reason for visiting here. Columbia is also the state capital and we targeted the late afternoon tour of the Capitol as our stop for Saturday. Sunday would be Congaree. Traffic was okay, we got our early and thus made it to Columbia to add one more item to our visit schedule, the South Carolina State Museum.

You may remember from two weeks ago that we visited the Tennessee State Museum and we were not at all impressed. The South Carolina Museum, however, was great and well worth a visit if any of you are ever in the area. The residents of South Carolina must agree, the place was always busy in contrast to the near emptiness of the Tennessee Museum. We arrived in time to score a free, 90 minute docent tour and I would have been happy to spend another 90 minutes or more exploring the displays more closely. The museum is four floors and is housed in an old, cotton mill. Inside you can still see the brick walls from the mill.

The first floor has an artists’ gallery with works from artists with some connection to the state. A planetarium is also located here. On the second floor, are displays concerning natural history, a 4D theater and a cafe with good food. The third floor is home to science and technology connected to South Carolina. For instance, the man who invested the laser was from South Carolina; and the state at one time was the home of more NASA astronauts than any other state in the US.

Part of the telescope collection at South Carolina State Museum, Columbia South Carolina

The fourth floor has displays about cultural history, an observatory, and a telescope gallery. A South Carolinian, Robert Ariail, was a major collector and restorer of American made telescopes and one entire room is devoted to his collection. The history of South Carolina takes up much of the floor, and in my opinion, their organization and summary of the history of South Carolina well represents on accurate summary. For instance, they noted that until the 1930s, South Carolina had a majority of African-American residents. Our docent was quick to point out to us that more Revolutionary battles were fought in South Carolina than any other state. Before the Civil War, South Carolina was the wealthiest state. After the Civil War as slaves were freed, it became the least wealthy and has remained one of the ten poorest. It is currently ranked 43rd from the top.

South Carolina State House, Columbia SC

After lunch in the cafe, we headed for the South Carolina State House and a 2:30 PM tour. The capitol building is the third one built for the state, the first two were destroyed by fire. The building was started before the Civil War but the Reconstruction Era was difficult economically and this building was not completed until 1907. It is small, housing only the two chambers and major executive offices. The light, the artistic use of granite and marble, and strategic use of statues, art, and wall coverings produces a pleasing appearance without being overwhelming. Outside, the southerly location has provided a much more robust profusion of flowering shrubs than we had seen in Kentucky or Tennessee.

South Carolina State House, Columbia SC

As non-South Carolinians, we noted the conflicting presentation about segregation in the State House and its grounds. For instance, the difference in reverence for two of the their most well-known politicians. Storm Thurmond served for over 60 years in the U.S. Senate and his statue has a central place outside on the grounds. To us, he represents one of the South’s most determined segregationists. John Calhoun, who served as a U.S.Vice-President, Secretary of War, Secretary of State and a U.S. representative and senator, has a statue in the lobby. He is pivotal figure in U.S. history, including as a leading and strong proponent of segregation. In Minneapolis, however, Lake Calhoun, named after him, just had its name changed due to his segregation ties. He had no real ties to Minnesota and his other accomplishments in life were given little weight over the segregation views. There is a wonderful African-American history monument on the grounds of the State House. And the state finally removed the Confederate flag that was flying proudly on the State House grounds.

Before church we walked portions of the University of South Carolina campus, located in downtown Columbia. It is a beautiful campus, again the flowers and shrubs helping to accent the buildings. Numerous banners along the walkways helped to educate us to the University’s high standing academically.

Dinner was just a few blocks from the State House at Noonah’s, voted Columbia’s best restaurant for desserts for about a gazillion years. After a quick appetizer, we chose our desserts and had made an excellent choice in an Amaretto bread pudding and a praline apple pie.

Lodging tonight and Sunday are at an Evergreeners home not far from the University. They tend to travel more globally than we do so it was informative to learn of the trips and ideas we could incorporate if and when we start travel overseas.

Ed and Chris, April 8

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2015 Trip Six, The Great Smoky Mountains, Oct. 25-26

Dalton, GA Oct. 26

The deceptive path that sucked us in Fort Mountain State Park GA

The deceptive path that sucked us in

The smooth path of mulched wood chips along the trail sucked us in. We were at Fort Mountain State Park in northern Georgia. The park is noted for its overlook views and for a mysterious stone wall built around 500 AD. No one knows for sure who built the wall or why. But the path looked so nice that it seemed a great hike, sure to be easy on the feet and with few tripping hazards.

The view from Fort Mountain overlook

The view from Fort Mountain State Park in GA overlook

But we were wrong. Within a few hundred feet the mulched path gave way to the usual beaten down path littered with rock outcroppings and tree roots. Not that it was any different from so many other paths, it was just that the first hundred feet were so comforting and inviting. The mile long trail goes up and then down 200 feet in elevation, nothing dramatic. The overlook provides vistas of the Chattahoochee National Forest and the valleys down below. The fall colors were still vibrant in many places, going brown and bare in others. The weather continued as Saturday, overcast and cooler.

One view of the stone wall at Fort Mountain state park in GA

One view of the stone wall at Fort Mountain state park in GA

The stone wall runs east and west for 850 feet and ranges in height from two to six feet. It is constructed of loose stones without mortar or other sealing material. Most theories consider the wall built by some tribe of Native Americans but that is as unknown for certain as is its purpose, defensive or ceremonial.

We came to Fort Mountain as we are wrapping up this traveling road trip. Hayesville North Carolina was left behind Sunday morning with warm memories of another Evergreen couple who took us in and provided friendly lodging and conversation. The far western portion of North Carolina and Georgia continued the forested mountains of the Appalachians. Our journey continued on the Ocoee Scenic Byway in the Cherokee National Forest and, before Fort Mountain, brought us to the Ocoee National Whitewater Center in southern Tennessee.

Ocoee Olympic Whitewater course

Ocoee Olympic Whitewater course

The Whitewater Center began as part of the Atlanta 1996 Olympic Games to host the canoe and kayak slalom competitions. It is the only Olympic whitewater course built on a natural riverbed. The river was “enhanced” with man-made rocks and re-arranged stream beds and channels. The course is 1/4 mile long and was built by the U.S. Forest Service. The water comes from the TVA dams on the river which still provide power and flood control. On days that the dam releases water for recreational whitewater adventurers, the TVA is reimbursed for lost power revenue by a surcharge on the whitewater adventurers. When we were there on Sunday, the water was relatively low and kayakers were only doing their thing on a lower stretch of the Ocoee River past the Olympic course.

The Ocoee River has a sorry past. It is the drainage river of the Copper Basin in Southern Tennessee. Copper was discovered here in the 1840s and smelting and mining continued until the 1980s. The mining and smelting process resulted in forests being clear-cut, heavy metals deposited into rivers, and acid rain produced which furthered the devastation of the environment until almost a moon like appearance was the result. Some called the Copper Basin the largest man-made biological desert in the world. Revegetation and reclamation began in the 1930s and still continues to this day.

The Chief Joseph Vann House in GA

The Chief Joseph Vann House in GA

Our third stop was on the Trail of Tears, that forced removal of the Cherokees from their lands to reservations in Oklahoma in the 1830s. The house of James Vann is a restored GA Historic site. Vann was an influential and wealthy Cherokee. He sponsored the Moravians to come to the area, settle, and help educate Cherokee children. His son Joe Vann inherited the bulk of his father’s estate in 1814 and grew it even further. Joseph Vann evidently had a total of 8 consorts and 9 children. Cherokee life was matriarchal and women and men did not consider themselves bound to one spouse forever.

In 1832, the state of Georgia passed new laws that resulted in the loss of Cherokee lands which were given to white settlers through a lottery system which Cherokee were not allowed to enter. Joe Vann moved to Oklahoma, continued as a successful businessman, and eventually died, along with 60 others, in a boiler explosion on his steam riverboat, the Lucy Walker, in 1844. There are still Vann descendants in the area, along with others scattered throughout the U.S.

Interior room with original paint colors restored at Chief Joseph Vann Historic Site in GA

Interior room with original paint colors restored at Chief Joseph Vann Historic Site in GA

A wonderful state park ranger gave us a tour of the restored Vann estate. At one time, Vann controlled 800 acres, owned over 100 African slaves, and ran several taverns, sawmills, a grist mill, orchards, etc. His home was restored and still has its original woodwork in many rooms. No original furnishings exist.

This is likely to be our last post of this trip. Originally we planned to visit two Civil War battlefields. Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Battlefield Park to be visited on Monday and Kennesaw Mountain Battlefield Park on Tuesday. Chickamauga was the first national battlefield site, created five years before Gettysburg. Chickamauga was a Confederate victory in 1863 but not decisive enough to stop the Union march to Atlanta and then to the sea. We did make it to the visitor center today (Monday Oct. 26) and toured part of the battlefield before calling it quits.

Last night, after dinner, Chris tripped and fell in a parking lot. It resulted in five hours in the emergency room, a broken bone in her wrist, a temporary cast and sling. While not so serious as to make us fly home immediately, it meant we really are not in a mood to spend extensive time visiting historic sites. This is our third trip to be affected by some sort of injury or ailment. Tuesday we will be driving to Atlanta and then flying home.

Ed and Chris Oct. 26 7:15 PM

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