Posts Tagged With: Chugach National Forest

2019 Trip 5: Alaska: August 30

Icebergs in Portage Lake in Chugach National Forest

Indian, AK. Friday August 30

Indian is just 10 miles east of Girdwood. For one night, a mom and pop and children road side motel has replaced the B and B that was our planned lodging in Cooper Landing, AK. We will skip Saturday night in Cooper Landing also and stay at a hotel in Anchorage and then drive to Cooper Landing on Sunday. The road to Cooper Landing and then on to Homer is open although travel is not advised. Rain this weekend should dampen the fires enough to make travel a bit more normal. Our Homer air company said their current customers have made it to Homer without major incident, but with delays.

The Begich-Boggs Visitor Center

Today was a slow, pleasant day along the Portage Glacier Road. This is a short stretch of road leading from the Seward Highway over to the infamous Whittier tunnel. It is part of the Chugach National Forest and numerous recreational opportunities line the roadway. The day started at the Begich-Boggs Visitor Center for the Chugach Forest. The center has extensive displays, a video, and information about the forest. It is named after two U.S. Congressional Representatives who died in a plane crash around here in 1972. The plane and bodies have never been found.

Hiking in Chugach Forest along Portage Glacier Road

We hiked along the lake and along the Trail of Blue Ice. This was calm and protective from the wind howling along the lake. The highlight of the morning was finding the creek with spawning salmon that the Forest Ranger on the cruise ship had mentioned. The Williwaw Creek hosts all of the salmon types and is clear. In contrast to the Valdez fish hatchery, here we could clearly observe salmon in their native habitat.

Salmon in Williwaw Creek in Chugach National Forest

Two types of salmon were present; red for sure and the second was either dog salmon or pink salmon. The natural processes were at work. The male salmon were right behind the females, waiting to fertilize the eggs and chasing away any competition. The salmon die after spawning and you could observe periodic dead salmon along the shore, waiting to be re-absorbed into nature. The creek was busy, there were plenty of salmon but not the masses that had been bunched together at the hatchery.

Lunch was brief, at a picnic table beside a pond along the Trail of Blue Ice. We finished up the day spending time at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. At first it felt weird to be here. It is almost a zoo and we have been spending our time seeing these animals out in the wild. On the positive side, the center cares for injured animals and has helped propagate the return of the Wood Bison to Alaska.

The Wood Bison are native to this area and are a distinct subspecies of the American bison. The Wood Bison were believed extinct after heavy hunting. In 1957 a herd was discovered in Alberta Canada and through conservation it has grown. In 2008 a group of 53 were transferred here to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. The bison have been bred and are being re-introduced to a few areas under the control of native Alaskans.

Bears at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

The Conservation Center is home to wolves, foxes, musk ox, elk, caribou, bears, moose, reindeer, and wood bison. It is a popular stop along the Seward Highway-Portage Glacier road. We found the bears irresistible, as evidenced by the photos above. Okay, so the bears were not in the wild but still fun and entertaining to watch.

Slower and pleasant day.

Lunch time

Ed and Chris. Indian AK. August 30. 8:30 PM

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2019 Trip 5: Alaska: August 29

Alaska

Girdwood, AK. Thursday August 29

A most interesting day. You will get your fill of animal and scenery pictures. Thursday was dedicated to one activity, a five hour boat cruise out of Whittier in Prince William Sound. But first, we had to get there. As noted yesterday, Whittier was not inviting as a lodging option. We are staying in Girdwood, about 45 minutes west of Whittier. The challenge in reaching Whittier is that if you are coming by car, you have to use the Whittier Tunnel. There is no other option.

The tunnel was constructed during WWII for railroad traffic and only much later converted to combined rail and auto traffic. And I mean combined. It is one lane wide with trains and autos using the same path. To enter Whittier from the west, you line up and wait for the tunnel to allow east bound traffic at 30 minutes after the hour. To leave Whittier, you line up and wait to enter the tunnel at the hour. If you miss your time, you wait an hour.

It should take 45 minutes to reach the tunnel from Girdwood. We allowed an hour. But, experienced travelers that we are, we missed the turn-off! We were zipping along when suddenly the road signs just seemed wrong. No cell service to check on Google maps. We decided we had to re-trace our steps. Going speeds I have not reached since the wide open spaces of west Texas, we reached the line at 10:35. Luckily at that time there were enough cars that the line was long and the tunnel was still open. Close call.

Logistics of the day: Boat, Lunch (plus a kale salad not in the photo), Seats (Top deck, front row, right by window) Chris at the far right front

Our cruise was with Phillips Cruises for a five hour journey on a new boat. They assign seats and since we had booked back in March, we had prime seats in front, by ourselves, looking forward, right next to windows in front and to our right. For the next five hours we took in magnificent scenery and a long list of sea animals. Once out on the Sound, the smoky haze was minimal. Whittier and this area of Alaska receive huge amounts of rain and snow but today was clear. Temps were in the high 50s, we did not need the extra gear we brought to stay warm on the water.

Glaciers

A U.S. Forest Service Ranger from the Chugach National Forest was on board providing narration. The Chugach is our second largest U.S. forest and includes huge swaths of water surface within its boundaries. He discussed glacier formation, the weather, the impact of climate change and the dramatic shrinking of the glaciers.

Glacier calving: Breaking off top, splashing bottom

Waterfalls

Alaska water falls that seemed so puny before were dramatic in height as water from melting snow and glacial ice poured down tall mountain sides.

Stellar seal lions

I could discuss the habits of Stellar sea lions and the other animals; we picked up fact sheets on all of them. But I won’t except for a few brief comments here and there.

Sea otters at play

Sea otters in Prince William Sound

Sea otters were almost hunted to extinction. Their pelts are amazing in their ability to resist water and keep warmth. If you want to be disgusted, read a history of how they were hunted and natives here treated.

Dall’s porpoises

The porpoises were the highlight. They buzzed the ship. They dived and splashed. They went out and “played” with the humpbacks whales. There must have been at least ten of them. Porpoises are fast. It was hard to take a photo; by the time they jumped out of the water, they were gone again.

Harbor seals in Prince William Sound

Humpback whales

This is not the season for orcas, so humpbacks were the “only” whales we saw today.

We did not bother taking pictures of bald eagles. Kind of ho-hum for a couple from Minnesota.

This was the Alaska of our imagination. A great cruise. A lucky day weather wise. A wealth of wildlife to observe and glaciers to marvel at.

Oh, we have canceled our first night in Cooper Landing due to fire issues. Our river rafting excursion has been canceled also. Still debating the next two nights in Cooper Landing and our three days in Homer. A Homer cancellation will hurt; we had splurged on an air trip over Cook Inlet to Lake Clark or Katmai National Park. They are remote and only reached by air or boat.

Alaska

Ed and Chris August 30. 3:30 AM

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