Posts Tagged With: California Zephyr

2025 Trip Three: May 24-25. The California Zephyr. 

Sacramento, California, May 26.

Well I lost several paragraphs from the beginning of this post. Hopefully I’ll remember enough of it to re-dictate. They are not showing up in back up either.

This post will be primarily pictures. I will start with narration to explain the trip and then finish with the pictures.

This journey is about the California Zephyr. Zephyr is one of Amtrak’s long distance routes, going from Chicago to Emeryville, California, which is across the bay from San Francisco. The stretch between Denver and Grand Junction Colorado is noted as particularly scenic. Since we have driven the flatlands of Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Nebraska, we flew to Denver and skipped those sections.

We thought the journey would be important enough that I purchased a digital book that explains the scenery outside the window as a train travels west. Some of Amtrak‘s long distance routes have the Trails and Rails program that narrates that scenery to the people sitting in the observation car. The Zephyr no longer does.

Our train was on time and boarding began at 8:15 AM. We left our hotel early enough to make it via walking to Union Station. We’re in a family room, which is considered one of the sleeper units. The other sleepers are called roomettes and sleepers.All of the sleeper passengers boarded last in Denver. In this way, the crew has sufficient time to clean the rooms that were used last night and were vacated here in Denver. Our family room was the last of the sleeper suites available when we bought our tickets.

The family room is on the lower level and is the only unit that stretches the width of the train. It’s narrower, so the total size is not much bigger. Amtrak says it’s suitable for two adults and two children under 12. The family room does not have a private bathroom or shower. That is only available in the sleeper unit. The roomettes also do not have a shower or private toilet. While the communal toilets were clean enough, they could’ve have been enhanced by the judicious use of air fresheners. We chose not to shower on the train, it’s only one night.

Passengers traveling in the coach cars are given a ticket while on the platform by the conductor that indicates which car and which seat they will be in. This ticket is put above their seat and also has written on it their destination. This information is used by the conductor to make sure that people getting off the train in the middle of the night are awakened at the proper time.

Food on Amtrak trains is quite good. There’s no variation, the menu has stayed the same for several years. Meals are part of the package for those in sleeper units. For those of you who do not know, the equipment, (coaches, sleeper cars, observation car, and dining car) are all at least 30 years old.

Instead of going due west and following interstate 70 all of the way, the California Zephyr leaves Denver and goes northwest towards Winter Park and Granby before dropping down in the southwesterly direction to pick up Interstate 70. The California Zephyr picks up the Colorado River around Granby. We went through numerous canyons and tunnels, along rivers, and generally had great scenery.

One tunnel, the Moffat tunnel, is 7 miles long. I think in total we went through well over 50 tunnels. Being somewhat egotistical, while the scenery was very nice, it was not dramatically different from other locations we have visited around the US. The meals on the train were good. The sleeping arrangements, while tight, accommodated two people easily in the family room. Amtrak says the family room can accommodate four people, two adults and two children under the age of 12. However, neither one of us slept well or long. We are not anxious to repeat an overnight travel trip on Amtrak in the future.

On a sidenote, I mentioned the digital book I had purchased. The book was written 15 or 20 years ago and it referred to a section of the Colorado River as Moon River. Along that section of the river, fishing and kayaking are popular activities. At the time of publication, it was not uncommon for these people to drop their drawers to moon the passengers on the Amtrak. I certainly thought the passage of time would have eliminated that tradition. However, the tradition is still alive and we were mooned four times during the trip. I did not take any pictures of that. 

As I mentioned, the train was full. This translated into a very busy observation car. For those of you who do not know, the observation car does not have assigned seats. People come to it from their regular seat. The advantage here is that the windows are twice as tall as the regular windows and go high enough to observe the sky and tall mountains. The conductor, every hour or so, would make an announcement that people in the observation car should leave in order to allow new people to come in and take advantage of it.

The observation car seats about 40 to 50 people. A coach car can hold over 70 and we had several of them. Sleeper cars can handle easily 30 and we had three of them. So it is not difficult to conclude, as the train travels through particularly scenic areas, it becomes difficult to snare a seat in the observation car. In this regard, the family room was an advantage, although even while at a lower level and with smaller windows, you could observe scenery on both sides of the train.

Enough with the narration. On to the pictures.

Starting to climb up to the Rocky Mountains 
Rocky Mountains 
The moon River area 
People on the river and one of the tunnels 

In the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Almost to Sacramento.

Ed and Chris, Sacramento, May 26.

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2025 Trip 3: May 21-23: California Zephyr

Colorado State Capitol

May 23, 2025 Denver

We are in Denver for two reasons. First, we have not spent any significant time here, usually just driving through. Second, we wanted to take the Amtrak California Zephyr through the Rocky Mountains, a very scenic trip. Scenic, at least, if the train is on time so our travel is during daylight hours through the Colorado mountains and part of the Utah mountains. Trains in America are frequently delayed by freight trains and my mechanical difficulties with the old equipment.

We flew out Wednesday, flying first class for the first time in decades. The cost to Denver was minimal. Our flight home from Sacramento will be in Delta Comfort. Normally we fly the cheapest seats, sitting in back. I wanted to see if the more expensive seats were worth the cost to lessen the difficulty and pain with my restless legs. I found that first class on Delta gave me plenty of room-as much as a coach seat on Amtrak.

Our travel arrangements did not give us any time to do sightseeing on Wednesday. Lunch was at the Denver airport after we got off the flight. We are not renting a car so we took the Denver light rail from the airport to downtown Denver Union Station. Union Station is where we will pick up the Amtrak on Saturday morning so we spent a little time checking out Union Station. It’s busier than the St. Paul Union Depot.

The city of Denver has about the same population as the two cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul combined but the Minneapolis-St. Paul metropolitan area is about 20% greater. What did surprise us was the greater number of passengers flying through Denver International Airport. Denver has over twice as many passengers flying in and out. In fact, Denver is the 5th busiest airport in the world.

Our Residence Inn hotel is a 20 minute walk from Union Station. We will be staying here for three nights before we get on the California Zephyr Saturday morning. The hotel is about halfway between Union Station and the Colorado Capitol building.

Colorado State Capitol

Denver has a free downtown bus shuttle so Thursday morning we took it to the Capitol. It is supposed to travel up and down a pedestrian mall but the mall is under renovations so it took a parallel street instead. We made it to the Capitol in time for the 10 AM tour. It is a lovely building with the usual stone surfaces but an attractive mix of wood features, stained glass, and painted murals.

As usual on a tour, several highlights are pointed out. Local construction materials predominate, even if those materials were located in areas of the state which were not particularly accessible at the time of its construction (1886-1894). That added to the final cost of the building. Portraits of U.S. Presidents are in one gallery, most were donated rather than purchased. The one of Abraham Lincoln was stolen and so a copy of his portrait is on display. Donald Trump did not like his portrait so it was removed and as yet no one has donated a satisfactory replacement.

The green color in the House of Representatives and the red color in the Senate follow the English traditions of the House of Commons and House of Lords. The Colorado State Capitol is not the highest in the U.S. Cheyenne WY and Santa Fe NM are at higher elevations. However, the Capitol is situated one mile above sea level, as noted on one of the steps leading up to the entrance.

One Colorado Governor back in 1936 closed the border with New Mexico to keep out indigents and aliens. (Boo) He was persuaded to open it back up before too many days had gone by. Another Colorado Governor refused to intern Colorado residents of Japanese background during the WWII and treated Japaneses Americans from other states interned by the US government in Colorado with respect. (Yay)

A visitor on the tour is able to get close to the Capitol Dome but today we chose not to climb the additional 99 steps. Our climb to the Wisconsin State Capitol dome a few weeks ago left my left hip sore the next day. I decided to pass on the dome in order to do more walking on Friday.

After the tour we headed for History Colorado, the state history museum. We were quite impressed. The history museum has four floors, the top floor was on the Ute Indians and Sand Creek Massacre. Since we have been to Sand Creek, we did not spend much time. It was gratifying to observe the historical accuracy of the incident, and not a whitewashing.

Side note: In March, Donald Trump issued an executive order on “Restoring Truth and Sanity to American History”. Talk about the title meaning the opposite as last week The Secretary of the Interior, former ND Governor Doug Burgum started implementing the EO by mandating that signs be posted at Dept of Interior property (national parks, monuments, and more) to have visitors report any information presented that reports a negative view of American history. Thus negative history must be downplayed or ignored. Let’s hope Colorado keeps its honesty in the forefront.

The third floor was devoted to a display of 100 artifacts that summarize Colorado both in well known and in obscure objects. As on the fourth floor, history was not whitewashed. Colorado was depicted in its glory and in its warts. It was impossible to examine all 100 artifacts but we gave it a diligent try. Some well known artifacts are shown in pictures below.

Floor two was heavy on stories of Colorado communities and individuals that exemplify the state. We spent more time on the Denver from A to Z exhibit that tried to highlight Denver in 26 ways. Some of them seemed a little farfetched but enjoyable.

Sample building murals from Colorado communities

We ate a late lunch here and then finished up the day in the basement of the museum. Their special exhibit was a retrospective of the 1990s, globally, nationally, and locally. Several times we had to stop and say, “That happened back in the 90s?”

From the Western art gallery at DAM

Friday was art day, visiting the Denver Art Museum (DAM) and Kirkland Museum of Fine and Decorative Art. The Denver Museum was not busy in the morning until some school groups came in. If you can believe it, I spent more time looking at art than did Chris although we both spent considerable time on the seventh floor (western art) of the Martin Building. (There is also a Hamilton Building.)

We took a docent tour in the afternoon about the work, primarily textile, of Nancy Hemenway Barton.

One of Barton’s large tapestries
A Barton “travelogue”, a two sided painted, folding book of one of her travels.

The Kirkland had been a specialty museum which recently merged with the Denver Art Museum. Kirkland had been a local artist and educator and his collection of his works and other stylistic art pieces is now overseen by DAM. One of his signature styles was the application of numerous dots buried within large works of art. He applied the dots while hanging above the works in a hanger type apparatus.

Since I am not knowledgeable about art, I will simply display some works that are a part of the Kirkland Institute of DAM that struck my fancy.

Tomorow’s blog. Amtrak’s California Zephyr.

Ed and Chris, Sacramento May 25.

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