Posts Tagged With: Blanding Utah

2021 Southwest Circle Tour—June 7

Goosenecks State Park in Utah

Flagstaff Arizona June 7, 2021

We left our Airbnb in Blanding Utah after discussing some travel options with our host. Natural Bridges National Monument was our primary goal for the day. The road from Blanding is paved although you are warned there are no services and no cell coverage along the route. Unlike other remote sections of Colorado and Utah, we did not observe small houses or farms along the road. Even most of the park staff lives onsite rather than driving in each day.

The monument has three primary natural bridges it protects, although there are other smaller bridges. Natural Bridges had not been high on our previous trip lists due to its remoteness and having seen arches before. While arches and bridges look similar, the causation is different. Bridges are created by erosive action of moving water. Arches are created by other erosionial forces, mainly frost action and seeping moisture. Here the underlying geology is sandstone, a more easily eroded rock.

Having read online about each bridge, overlooks to view them, and trails to reach them, we easily decided on this trip to simply view each natural bridge from an overlook. Each trail to actually reach a bridge is strenuous, elevation changes ranged from 180 to 500 feet, and involves ladders, handrails, slip rock and steep steps cut into the rock. There is a paved, nine mile loop road that connects the overlooks.

Sipapu Bridge comes first and is the second largest natural bridge in the world. Rainbow Bridge in Glen Canyon is bigger, we saw it on our 2014 Lake Powell houseboating trip. Sipapu means gateway in Hopi and refers to a gateway in which souls may pass to the spirit world.

Sipapu Natural Bridge

Kachina Bridge is considered the youngest of the three since its span is still thick and less eroded. In 1992 a rock fall knocked off an estimated 4,000 tons of rock from the bridge. Kachina dancers play a central role in Hopi religious tradition.

Kachina Natural Bridge

Owachomo Bridge means rock mound in Hopi and is named for the rock formation on one end of the bridge. Owachomo is more delicate and may have eroded more quickly than the others. Owachomo no longer has a stream underneath it, evidently centuries of change have either moved the streams or dried them up.

Owachomo Natural Bridge

Our Airbnb host had recommended that we not backtrack to Blanding on our way to Flagstaff but take a more local road that provided great scenery. The scenery started as soon as we turned onto the road. Several cattle were grazing along the road. The signs indicated this was an open range territory where cattle are not fenced in. The signs were accurate and viewing the cattle early made sure we kept our eyes open.

The road was paved except for a three mile stretch of gravel road. The gravel portion was on the most scenic section, reasonably wide with switchbacks and steep elevation loss as we descended into the valley below. The views were excellent and the 15 mph speed limit allowed for time to observe-while still keeping an eye on the road and two hands on the steering wheel.

Views from Highway 261 gravel rsection

Almost at the end of this shortcut was Gooseneck State Park. The park is very small, only a parking area with picnic tables and an overlook of the San Juan River. From the park, you can look down 1,100 feet at the river. Even more spectacularly, the river here has carved curves deep into the rock. Horseshoe Bend south of Page AZ gets more visitors and more press but Goosenecks provides a closer view of more bends. Today the water looked more like chocolate milk. Even so, there were people rafting and stand up paddle boarding way down there.

The rest of the journey to Flagstaff was uneventful. Scenery was still great views of buttes, mesas and dirt but we have driven this stretch of road before so it brought back memories instead of making new ones. We did stop for an ice cream shake at Sonic in Kayenta and arrived in Flagstaff around 3:30.

Traveling to Flagstaff. Monument Valley and Mexican Hat on top.

The next three days are more for family time. There will not be daily posts. We resume the travel portion Friday morning June 11.

Ed Heimel, Chris Klejbuk Flagstaff AZ June 8

Mother and calf along Hwy 261 Open Range
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2021 Southwest Circle Tour-June 6

The Little Free Library along McElmo Canyon CO

Blanding Utah, Sunday June 6, 2021

Hovenweep National Monument is probably the last NPS site that we had not visited, until today, that relates to the Ancestral Puebloan people. I thought that the monument would be deserted, located about 45 miles from Cortez CO and equally so from Blanding Utah. The last annual visitation numbers I had read were 40,000 annual visitors in 2017. We left Cortez at 9:30 and reached Hovenweep at 10:30. There were 15 vehicles in the parking lot and an unknown number in the campground. Many more vehicles than I expected.

Hovenweep was named by photographer William Henry Jackson who visited here in 1874. The name comes from the Ute/Paiute word meaning deserted valley. It is deserted today but estimates are the peak period here was from 1100-1300 AD. The ruins indicate a sizable population lived in this area with Hovenweep the center of activity.

Hovenweep has been protected since 1923, to prevent the theft of artifacts. (It may still be occurring. There have been successful federal stings to catch thieves.)There are six areas under protection, located in Utah and Colorado. Most of these require high clearance vehicles to reach them. The Stone Tower group is accessible from the visitor center so we spent our time there. Besides its ties to the Ancestral Puebloans, Hovenweep is known for its amazing and unusual number of towers. Towers, round, D-shaped, and square, were built in the late 1200s and many still stand today. The architectural detailing and stone craftsmanship are outstanding.

Stone Tower Group at hovenweep

The loop trail takes one past several unique dwellings. Hovenweep Castle (named by white Americans, not the Pueblo people) is fashioned by two D-shaped towers on the rim of the canyon. Square Tower is two stories tall and built down in the canyon. Twin Towers had 16 rooms located in one oval tower and one horseshoe shaped. Eroded Boulder House was built under a huge rock which acts as its roof. Chris thought a few of the buildings and ruins resembled hobbit houses.

The tour took us about 1.5 hours to make the 2 mile loop with a descent into and ascent out of the canyon. The park ranger explained various hiking options, noting that it was very hot out and no judgments would be made if people only took a short hike. We started out thinking we would only do a little less than one-half of the total trail but ended up completing the whole trail.

Part of the loop trail at Hovenweep

After a picnic lunch, it was off to Blanding Utah. At Blanding we are spending the night in our first Air Bnb for probably two years. The drive here was again on the Great Sage Plain, with sage brush flat fields alternating with rock outcroppings.

Little surprises still pop up. We were driving in an area without any major concentration of buildings when we came upon a Little Free Library. It was one-third of the way to Hovenweep and placed by the side of the highway. It had a great scenic backdrop. Chris did not find any books of interest. We saw one vineyard and several farms with horses. As we got closer to Hovenweep, the irrigation system seemed to end and we no longer saw lush green fields.

Blanding has no major hotels and few restaurants but the town’s visible infrastructure seems in good shape. Tomorrow’s destination is Natural Bridges National Monument. It is one hour away and Blanding is the nearest community to it.

Side comment. We have driven through portions of Colorado for seven days. It has to be the state with the least use of traffic paint of any state that I can recall. Highways or city streets, it did not matter. Not the end of the earth but just something different to end the blog and our time in Colorado.

On the road to Blanding, Utah

Ed Heimel, Chris Klejbuk Sunday June 6 Blanding Utah

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