travel

Our road trips around the U.S.

2013 Trip Four, Out West, May 6

Monday May 6 was a full day of Capitol Reef. Breakfast was a small box of Cheerios from one of the previous lodging sites which offered continental breakfast-plus milk and juice purchased in nearby Bicknell.

We caught the ranger morning presentation of geology of the area and continued to be impressed by the number of international tourists. They appreciate the US national parks more than Congress and its inability to fund appropriate levels of financial support.

Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef

Capitol Gorge

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Goosenecks

Goosenecks

Wild flowers starting, was a cold winter

Wild flowers starting, was a cold winter

Capitol Gorge

Capitol Gorge

We spent the day driving and hiking. One of the hikes, Capitol Gorge, was a narrow canyon that had been the only and unpaved road through the area. I am not sure our pictures always show the great height and vastness of the cliffs and area. We kept looking around and commenting on how stupendous the views are. The clouds threatened rain often and delivered sporadically.

We took a break in late afternoon and had lunch/dinner at Slackers-burgers were fine, chocolate malt was so-so but cheap. We finished up back at the park but again cloud cover made it impossible to bring home a fantastic sunset (or sunrise) photo off the red cliffs. My one disappointment. The rain/clouds were expected to continue for several days.

Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef

One of the last walks was out to Goosenecks point where you overlook a gorge hidden behind other gorges. Gorgeous! As I mentioned earlier, this park continues for over one hundred miles so there must an almost limitless set of fantastic views.

Ed May 8, 8 AM

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2013 Trip Four, Out West, May 5

Sorry for the delay in postings. The Mill cabins in Lyman Utah did not offer Internet service and our portable wi-fi hotspot had a difficult time getting a connection. So rather than continue my frustration, we decided it would be better to wait until we hit Vegas. But the picture taking continued at a furious rate.

Yes, we have been out west before and seen mountains. Somehow, though, on this trip the views just seem more spectacular. Every time we turn a corner and see a new view, we just go Wow and want to capture it on film even though film does not do justice to seeing it in person. Maybe we will get jaded. But for now it is mountains.

Sunday May 5 we were up early and hit 7:30 church. Nope, it was not a “up north fishing mass” but a full hour. Good for my soul. On the advice of hotel staff, we ate at a local restaurant called Starvin Arvin’s. Quite good, great biscuits.

Driving along the Interstate in Utah we came upon a pair of recumbent bikes riding on the shoulder of the road. This time we got a good picture.

recumbent bikers on Interstate

recumbent bikers on Interstate

Our destination was Capitol Reef National Park. We had decided to skip Arches and Canyonlands national parks for CR. Not sure how we chose CR, whether geography, reading books, personal recommendations or what, but it was a great choice. Just the drive to the park was beautiful-an over worked word which you will read frequently along with its synonyms.

We left the Rockies, Glenwood Canyon,and Colorado National Mounument behind and were driving through rolling hills first. Then we started seeing these various uplift views of tall ridges and cliffs of varying color, with some but minimal vegetation. The cliffs get taller and mountains are in the background as we get closer to Capitol Reef.

driving to Capitol Reef

driving to Capitol Reef

Driving to Caitol Reef

Driving to Caitol Reef

Capitol Reef is named for a unique monocline formation, one uplifted ridge that extends for over one hundred miles from north to south. The cliffs are frequently over 1200 feet and can go as high as 2400 feet (if I remember correctly from the ranger talk). This formation has only one east west easy access, along the Fremont river.

The restricted access made exploration late here and development minor. So, you find out that this area was one of the last in the US to be mapped and get regular postal service by car. Even now, it has much less development and visitation than other Utah national parks. The east west road was only paved in 1962.

We decided to “check in” at the Mill Cabins after our initial stop at the visitor center for the park. There was no one at the main lodge which is still under construction so we called and got the owner who was just heading home from dinner at Slackers Burgers and Shakes in the nearby town of Bicknell. There are only six cabins and two were to be occupied this night. It was small but clean and for $50 a night was just fine.

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We had not eaten since Starvin Arvin’s so after check in we drove to Slackers but they close at 4 pm on Sundays so we tried Cafe Diablo. As Chris says, “Who would have known?” A great restaurant in a very small town. It has Fodor and Zagat comments and ratings. Plus it had chocolate mousse! Actually with each of the house made desserts you also got your choice of house made ice cream. So Chris had strawberry sorbet while I had the mousse.

It was still early and light out. We went back to Capitol Reef and visited part of the park. The weather was alternating cloudy and sunny so pictures vary in the background. We spend most of the late afternoon and evening getting a taste for the area. Given the limited accessibilty (we had our Saturn, not a high clearance 4 wheel drive Jeep), we visited locations mainly along the developed road. Still, the vistas were stunning.

Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef

The evening brought showers so we nixed the outdoor talk. We had a long day and headed back to the cabins and night time in rural Lyman.

Ed May 8, 7 AM

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2013 Trip Four, Out West, May 4

Sunrise oner Nebraska farm field.

Sunrise oner Nebraska farm field.

Man, this job as traveler is fun! If the number of pictures taken is any indication, yesterday (Saturday) was a doozy. 191 pictures taken. True, a great number were deleted. But that is good. With a simple digital camera we can take multiple shots and only save the best or most representative.

We started in the cornfields and ranch lands of Nebraka. Amazingly, several of the interstates are marked for bicyclist to use the shoulder. We saw a few, including a recumbent bike.

Rocky Mountains

Rocky Mountains


As we drove past Denver, the Rocky Mountains were the grand sight awaiting us. Snow-covered mountain peaks marched along the sides and in front of us. Fantastic vistas were in every direction.

Colorado river in Glenwood canyon

Colorado river in Glenwood canyon

Once over the Rocky Mountains and through the tunnels, we entered Glenwood Canyon. This canyon was formed by the Colorado River. It also has high walls and is relatively narrow. It was an engineering marvel to fit train tracks, the river, the interstate highway, and some narrow towns within the canyon walls.

The dramatic vistas kept coming. As we left Glenwood Canyon, we entered a valley area. On the south side was Grand Mesa and the Colorado national Monument. We drove the 23 mile scenic rim drive and took several short hikes in Colorado National Monument.

Colorado National Monument

Colorado National Monument

We ended the day at our hotel in Grand Junction but not before we drove around parts of the city (population of about 60,000). The people of Grand Junction must know their fractions very well. Street names use fractions; 26 road, 26 1/4 road, 26 1/2 road, 26 3/4 road,
G road, G and 1/2 road, etc. Unusual in our experience.

Dinner at the hotel listening to jazz. All in all, a good day.

Ed. 9 pm

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2013 Trip Four, Out West, May 2 and 3

What was supposed to be one long, boring travel day turned out to be much different. Winter Storm “Achilles” was the first change. Instead of driving down I-35 to Des Moines IA and heading west on I-80 on Friday May 3rd, we left Thursday night May 2nd after the car tune ups were completed. We drove to Sioux City SD. By going south and west, we avoided the snow along the I-35 and I-80 corridors on Thursday and Friday.

As the sun sets, we leave the MAY snows of MN and IA behind us.

As the sun sets, we leave the MAY snows of MN and IA behind us.

With our Friday drive to North Platte NE now a shorter distance, we have time to make a few side trips. We took I-90 to US 83 and drove south through SD and NE. Our first stop was Valentine NE, home to red valentines carved into the sidewalks. It was also home to the Niobrara Scenic River and Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge.

This stop produced a waterfall (not huge but cute), coyote, bison, prairie dogs, and elk. Chris spotted the coyote. It was sunning itself along our trail. After opening one eye and realizing we were smart creatures that were not going to challenge his right to the trail, it went back to snoozing as we retraced our steps.

Chris' friend

Chris’ friend

The bison numbered about 25 and blocked the road so we let them go first out of consideration to the young ones and to the size of the old ones.

Mother and child

Mother and child

The prairie dogs were cute as always. The elk were some of the closest we have seen in our wanderings. We got several pictures before they leapt over a fence and were gone.

Here's looking  at you number 1.

Here’s looking at you number 1.

Here's looking at you number 2

Here’s looking at you number 2

Final stop of the day was at the Bailey Yards. This is the largest railroad yard in the world. For Union Pacific, they repair-check out 300 locomotives a day. They process 10,000 rail cars per day over 2,850 acres stretching over 8 miles. Quite the site. Our camera could not capture the whole view.

Bailey yards

Bailey yards

Tomorrow we head to Grand Junction, CO.

Enjoy your days as much as we are enjoying ours.

Ed 5/3/13 8:15 pm

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2013 trip three, NM and VA, April 28-29

Today, Monday, will be the fertile farm lands of Illinois; the gently rolling hills and forests of Wisconsin; and the last stretch of interstate 94 in Minnesota.

Yesterday began with the rolling hills of West Virginia which quickly changed into the coal mining trains, electric power plants, and Manufacturing areas of West Virginia.

The mountains of eastern Kentucky transformed into the rolling horse breeding areas of Kentucky. Very green and lush. Indiana, as usual, was just a blur.

This will be the last post until at least the end of day Friday, May 3.

Trip three, while focused on two state, covered 16 states and over 7,000 driving miles during seven weeks.

West Virginia waterfall.

West Virginia waterfall.

KY farm

KY farm

IL farm

IL farm

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2013 Trip Three, NM and VA, April 27

New River and gorge

New River and gorge

New River bridge

New River bridge

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Today was an easy day. We drove from the east coast of Virginia across to its western terminus with West Virginia on I-64. Virginia still had blooming trees, green grass, and pleasant vistas. Except, of course, for the truck traffic along interstate 81 that brought back fond memories of Pennsylvania.

West Virginia has been hilly with valleys interspersed among the hills. One section of US 60 bills itself as a very twisty, curvy road but after our previous experiences with the Road to Hana, it was a drive in the park. So far the trees in West Virginia seem to be less budded out than in Virginia.

This was a shorter driving day so that we could experience the new River Gorge by Hawks nest State Park. This area has a deep coal mining background. Rail traffic goes along the bottom of the gorge. The bridge is 3000 feet long and it is an 875 foot drop to the river. One day a year they close the bridge and allow foot traffic, rappelling off the bridge, para sail, etc.

We hiked down part of the way to the bottom of the gorge for additional vistas. The area is known for its rafting and rock wall climbing. Once again, we chose not to participate in those activities. Plus once a year people can bungee jump from the bridge.

Ed April 27. 8:30 pm

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2013 trip three, NM and VA, April 26

Trip Three is coming to its conclusion. Tonight is our last night in the Williamsburg area. Saturday morning we head out. Two more nights on the road until St. Paul. Saturday’s lodging at Hawks Nest Sate Park on the New River in West Virginia should be very scenic. (www.hawksnestsp.com)

Since yesterday went late and was a full day, we took it easy today. We drove to York River State Park less than 20 miles from here. Way back when it was owned by a signer of the U.S. Constitution, John Blair, Jr.. It is next to Camp Peary, an armed forces installation rumored (according to Wikipedia) to be “The Farm”, a covert CIA training site. We did not try to find out if that is true.

We spent several hours walking along the various trails. Only a few flowers were blooming but all of the trees are fully leafed. Osprey, deer, and blue herons were visible.

We wrapped up the week by walking through Colonial Williamsburg and had dinner at the Kings Arms Tavern.

Minnesota here we come- a chance to visit family and re-stock the car before leaving May 3rd for trip four-the far west.

York river state park-creek estuary leading to river

York river state park-creek estuary leading to river

hiking at York RIver state park

hiking at York RIver state park

Osprey nest

Osprey nest

Flowers at Colonial Williamsburg

Flowers at Colonial Williamsburg

Colonial Williamsburg Capitol

Colonial Williamsburg Capitol

Ed April 25 10 pm

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2013 Trip Three, NM and VA, April 25

It was a long but enjoyable day. It started out with a bit of a biting breeze. We were glad that we had several layers of clothing with us, particularly during the morning. By late afternoon, people in Norfolk Virginia were walking around in shorts and T-shirts.

Our first stop was the Norfolk Botanical Garden. This garden is 3 to 4 times larger than the Lewis Gintner Garden we saw yesterday. The Norfolk garden offers tram rides, we took two. One was the general layout and one was for the azalea flower tour. We also spent several hours just walking and enjoying the gardens.

Norfolk botanical garden

Norfolk botanical garden

Norfolk Botanical Garden

Norfolk Botanical Garden

The Norfolk garden is not just flowers, but has trees and shrubs much like the Minnesota Arboretum. The design of the garden is such that there will be blooming flowers during every season of the year. It is located immediately next to the Norfolk airport, leading to an interesting juxtaposition of beauty and commerce. A short walk from the visitor center leads to a ridge looking down immediately at the airport runways.

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Chalk this next one up to it’s a small world. Once again, we met a couple from Minnesota. This time, the couple lives in Mendota Heights, just across the river from our condo. Plus, they were staying at the same time share in Williamsburg that we are.

Lunch today was in the Garden Café, catered by a local Greek restaurant. Not quite as nice as yesterday, but still pleasant and supporting the local economy.

Our second stop was in downtown Norfolk. We visited the Gen. Douglas MacArthur Memorial. Today’s history lesson was about world wars one, two, and the Korean War.

VA International Tattoo Festival

VA International Tattoo Festival

Our final event was the Virginia International Tattoo Festival. http://www.vafest.org/2013/tattoo-main. “Tattoo” here refers to and I quote: “derives from the cries of the 17th and 18th century Low Country innkeepers who, as the fifes and drums of the local regiment signaled a return to quarters, would cry”Doe den tap toe”–Turn off the taps! The sound of the taps caused the innkeeper’s customers to depart and return to the barracks. Over time, the words of that cry evolved into the term “tattoo”,which now refers to what developed into a ceremonial performance of military muscle by massed bands.

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Given the Hampton Roads area heavy concentration of military bases, a tattoo held here is both natural and well attended. This year it is held for four nights. Groups came from Norway, France, Canada, the UK, and Australia besides the US. It was a true pleasure to watch.

One other dose of current history. While we knew of the heavy military presence in the area, we had not known, or remembered, that NATO has a major command headquarters here, the Allied Command Transformation vs the Allied Command Operations-which may be in Europe.

Ed April 25 11:55 pm

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2013 Trip Three, NM and VA, April 24

What a difference a day can make! Warm weather. Sun. Colorful flowers. Good lunch. Today’s post includes more pictures than usual, just because the park was beautiful and the day gorgeous.

Lewis Gintner Botanical Garden RIchmond

Lewis Gintner Botanical Garden RIchmond

Lewis Gintner Botanical Garden

Lewis Gintner Botanical Garden

Valentine Richmond History Museum

Valentine Richmond History Museum

Just a home on the way to the Gintner

Just a home on the way to the Gintner

The day began at the Valentine Richmond History Museum in downtown Richmond. Once the home of an early and wealthy Richmond family, it now houses details of the history of the city of Richmond. A docent tour brought us in to the house, normally off limits to casual gallery attendees. The sculpture room of Edward Valentine was also on the premises. Inside photos of the museum are not allowed, so the scene from the outside patio is shown above.

The museum cafe is catered by Sally Bell’s Kitchen, a local long time cafe. Box lunches are the fare but they were great. An eggy potato salad almost as good as Chris’-with a sweet pickle slice on top. Cupcake (chocolate-chocolate for Ed, White-white for Chris) was scrumptious with frosting all over except for the bottom. A small cheese wafer. And the sandwiches were great too. It more than made up for yesterday’s fiasco.

The afternoon was spent at the Lewis Gintner Botanical Gardens, one of the top gardens in America-or so the sign stated. We were impressed. The layout was great, the blooms fantastic. This is what spring is supposed to be like. We spent 2.5 hours just walking around enjoying.

The final event of the evening was a presentation by a local person who does one man Benjamin Franklin shows. It was informative and re-informed us of the multitude of Franklin’s accomplishments.

As a bonus, AAA membership saved the cost of one admission to the Valentine and the Gintner was free due to Como membership. All in all, a very pleasant day.

At Gintner

At Gintner

Ed April 24 11 pm

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2013 Trip Three, NM and VA, April 23

The day dawned overcast and misty. Sunshine was promised by 10 AM. We headed out early to the Petersburg area. Our first stop was at the Petersburg National Battlefield Park.

Petersburg Virginia was subject to a nine month siege from July 1864 to the end of March 1865. It was the longest siege of any city in US history. Gen. Grant believed that the eventual submission of Richmond depended upon taking Petersburg first. Petersburg was responsible for supplying Richmond with food and ammunition.

Representative defensive measures at Petersburg

Representative defensive measures at Petersburg

The trench warfare, foreshadowing World War I, took a tremendous toll on the soldiers and the Petersburg residents. When Petersburg was finally taken in early April, Richmond was evacuated by the Confederate government immediately thereafter. Gen. Lee surrendered at Appomattox within a week.

After the battlefield, we began our first day visiting the Virginia garden week sites in Petersburg. The garden tours are better described as house and garden tours. It is a fund raiser for the garden clubs and their members have arranged multiple floral displays in each home. However, it was still pleasant, entertaining, and educational. A second stop had a display of botanical paintings.

There were eight stops on the tour. Most were homes. One of the stops was a neighborhood pocket park that had been reclaimed from an overgrown ravine over the last several decades. One of the founders of the effort was a 70-year-old woman living across from the park. She devoted thousands of hours to the task. Today, the park is a testament to her and the neighbors of the area.

Reclaimed ravine now Marie Bowen Gardens

Reclaimed ravine now Marie Bowen Gardens

At another location, Centre Hill mansion, we met two sisters from Stillwater Minnesota. They fly out to either Virginia or South Carolina to attend their garden events each year. The mansion was featured in the recent movie Lincoln. Chris and I have decided we must see it again to locate the scenes and locales that we have visited the last several days.

There was a distinct disappointment in the tour, however. Homemade goodies and treats were to be served at the last stop. It appeared to be store-bought lemonade and cookies however. We passed. We drove to a home cooking restaurant south of the city which of course had closed for the day half an hour before we arrived. Well, one of these days we will learn to double check the hours of everything. And the sun came out as we headed back.

We took an “alternate route” to Williamsburg and used the free VADOT ferry over the James River to shorten the driving route. The ferry runs every 25-30 minutes. We were the fifth to the last car on and just avoided having to wait for the next ferry.

View from the James River ferry

View from the James River ferry


Ed April 23 8 pm

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