travel

Our road trips around the U.S.

2014 Trip Two, March 29-30, Deep South

Sunday March 30, Miami Beach

Not a lot new to report. Two days at the beach, Saturday continued the windy and cloudy days. Today was almost perfect, sunny, slight breeze and temps around 80.

I am justing posting this to let you know we are doing fine.

Early morning  at the beach

Early morning at the beach

The crowd starts to build

The crowd starts to build

A view from the ocean

A view from the ocean

Ed and Chris 9:30 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 28, Deep South

Friday, March 28, Miami Beach

Another windy day but we invested in an umbrella which was used to block the wind, not the sun. Nothing too unusual on the beach today, just a formation of five planes pulling large banners advertising Las Vegas locations and events.

planes pulling banners over South Beach

planes pulling banners over South Beach

The scene in South Beach is eclectic. Of course there is the usual mix of residents, flavored by its international mystique. The Sony Tennis Open is being played so you have tennis fans. Business people are here on expense accounts. Northerners and retirees like us. Spring breakers, although they do not predominate or overwhelm. For the first time in memory, we have seen a number of Buddhist monks-or at least guys who dress that way. In this town, who knows if they are or not. Plus the people attending the Miami Music festival.

Sidewalks and streets are crowded. Taxi drivers do their usual pull over and stop anywhere. So do all other drivers. So do delivery trucks. Scooters weave in and out of traffic. There is a new dimension this year as bike rental programs have proliferated adding more undisciplined drivers to the mix. Pedestrians cross against traffic and do not understand the concept of not taking up the entire sidewalk whether walking fast or slow. Sidewalk cafes are everywhere which also reduces the space for walking. People are dressed in suits and fancy dresses with stiletto heels, or swim wear, or mundane shirts and shorts with some place or cause plastered on them.

So back to the Music Festival. We saw 5 or 6 fancy sports cars driving around with the words “Afrojack” on them. Thank goodness for Wikipedia. I now know that EDM is Electronic Dance Music. Afrojack is a Dutch DJ performing a headlining act. Avicii is a Swedish DJ set to perform here except he had a gall bladder attack. Laidback Luke is here too, along with Dada Life. Over 150,000 people are expected for the festival over in Miami’s Bayfront park. South Beach hosts a number of parties that start at 11 pm or midnight and run until 5 AM or so. The cost is $60 to $80 so we decided to pass on going to them.

New World Symphony

New World Symphony

Instead we walked over to the New World Symphony. We usually manage to fit in one of their performances. This was titled “Ohlsson Plays Rachmanioff” (Concerto #2 in C minor). It was fantastic. We sat behind the musicians, a location we have preferred since the first time their new Frank Gehry designed building opened three years ago. We get to see the conductor face on. The musicians are very close, although we see more of their hair styles than their faces.

Two males had Mohawk cuts, one with the Mohawk portion colored red. One of the percussionists had a very minor role in the second piece, hitting the drum 4 or 5 times. Each time he got up from his chair to do his bit, he took a blanket-like cloth and placed it over his knee and then placed his knee against the drum. After he banged the drum, he carefully removed the “blanket”, folded it and replaced it on top of the drum.

New World Symphony

New World Symphony

The musicians are entirely in black except for one female violinist who had a white cloth over her shoulder where she placed the violin. Not sure how she got away with that spot of white. The other two pieces were Mikhail Glinka’s “Overture to Ruslan and Ludmilla” and Ottorino Respighi’s “The Pines of Rome”.

We have made some changes to our schedule. We had planned to visit some of Chris’ relatives on Sunday. Due to changes in their situation, they won’t be able to see us. So we are spending one more night in Miami Beach. Our HGVC timeshare is booked up Sunday night and we are moving half a block down to the Winterhaven. Monday we will continue our plans and drive 400 miles to the Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park in White Springs, FL.

Ed and Chris March 28 11:35 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 27, Deep South

Thursday March 27 Miami Beach

Another re-arranged day. High winds continued and with access to our car, which is unusual for us in Miami Beach, we headed out to Vizcaya Museum and Gardens. Despite our frequent times here, we had never visited this dramatic home. (No interior photos allowed.)

Vizcaya from the gardens

Vizcaya from the gardens

Vizcaya was created by James Deering. His family created one of the companies that formed International Harvester. My reading of the various histories is that he was given a vice-president position due to family connection but after less than 10 years in the business, he was eased out. So Vizcaya is the creation more of a person of inherited wealth than a person who created wealth.

Vizcaya from the bay side

Vizcaya from the bay side

The house and grounds are dramatic. The house was built between 1914 and 1916. Due to WWI, the gardens were not completed until 1921. Deering died in 1925. He was unmarried and childless and his brother’s daughters inherited the property. They sold off parts of the extensive grounds that had been used for farms and gardens. Eventually they sold the house and gardens to Miami-Dade County. It is said that 1000 workers were employed to build the home. The population of Miami at the time of construction was 10,000 people.

The stone barge sculpture-the breakwater

The stone barge sculpture-the breakwater

The home was inspired by international influences, particularly Italian and Spanish. There is no one theme, influences come from Mediterranean architecture; from 18th century Italian theater; from a 2nd century AD Roman marble basin; etc. Whole rooms were purchased and transported from Europe to Miami. Deering purchased a rug that once belonged to the grandfather of King Ferdinand of Spain (the one that bankrolled Christopher Columbus.) There is a 15th century Italian coffered ceiling. A harpsichord dates back to 1619. Tapestries on a wall once belonged to the 19th century poet Robert Browning. This guy had money and spent it.

Vizcaya and gardens

Vizcaya and gardens

Modern influences included indoor plumbing, all electric lights, two elevators, a refrigerator, an electric dumbwaiter, walk-in vault for the silver when Deering was not present, etc.

Secret garden with photo shoot

Secret garden with photo shoot

The home was built on Biscayne Bay. Several dramatic views of the bay can be seen. The design includes a stone sculpture of a barge out in the bay that acts as a breakwater. The pool is an indoor/outdoor pool.

Vizcaya gardens

Vizcaya gardens

The gardens are extensive. Whole hillsides were created to block the view of the farms and grounds. Fountains and statuary reflect European style. The gardens are more formal, reflecting symmetry and shrubbery more than blooming flowers. The beauty of the grounds lends itself to photos shoots. We saw at least 6 teen age girls having their Quinceanera photos taken.

Norwegian Cruise Lines ship the Sun with pilot boat alongside it

Norwegian Cruise Lines ship the Sun with pilot boat alongside it

We returned to Miami Beach and went for another long walk. This time we headed south to South Pointe and the shipping channel. We arrived in time to watch one of the four cruise ships in port as it headed out to sea.

Ed and Chris March 27 10:30 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 26, Deep South

Wednesday, March 26, Miami Beach

Our Hilton time share

Our Hilton time share

Our time share at night

Our time share at night

Windy day in paradise but we made the best of it. Sleeping late was the first priority. We followed up with a long walk along the boardwalk. The boardwalk is wide and populated by walkers, joggers, bikers, Segway riders, etc. It is a popular place to exercise and people watch. It runs between the ocean/beach/sand dunes and the hotels.

Miami Beach boardwalk

Miami Beach boardwalk

As we headed north along the boardwalk, we detoured over onto the beach. We thought we saw two horses, probably mounted police. Instead we saw bulls. Brahman bulls. Well, of course, we had to check it out. While I took pictures, safely behind the line the security people were trying to maintain, Chris chatted up a beach chair attendant. Evidently the city of Miami Beach was filming a commercial. Not quite sure what for, but the scene was interesting. It is not unusual for us to come across one or more photo shoots during our visits to South Beach but this was our first bulls on the beach.

beach photo shoot

beach photo shoot

bulls on the beach

bulls on the beach

bulls on the beach

bulls on the beach

After lunch, we headed for the beach. Today was cooler and the wind was strong, strong enough to blow sand as you are laying on the beach. Usually we go to the beach around 11, a later arrival made sense today. So a shorter beach time meant less sand blasting and the beach time was enjoyable. We will try tomorrow for a longer spell.

Wind-kite surfing

Wind-kite surfing

Dinner was down the street at one of the many restaurants with live music lining Ocean Drive.

Ed and Chris at the beach

Ed and Chris at the beach

Ed and Chris March 26 10:30 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 25, Deep South

Tuesday, March 25, Miami Beach

Wakodahatchee Wetlands

Wakodahatchee Wetlands

Well it was a nice day in Paradise. We spent the day north of Miami Beach visiting with my cousin Chris and her husband Nelson. They have a condo in the small town of Lighthouse Point. Two years ago they visited us in Miami Beach and we were delighted to visit them since they were in Florida at the same time we were. This posting will be short on words and long on pictures.

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Chris and Nelson took us to the Wakodahatchee Wetlands. The wetlands were unused utility land that has been converted into wetlands and recreational areas; primarily birding observation points. The water utility pumps treated water from the wastewater treatment plant into the wetland for further treatment by the vegetation and to recharge the aquifer instead of disposal into the ocean.

Wakodahatchee Wetlands

Wakodahatchee Wetlands


The wetlands has a boardwalk running through it with fantastic bird watching opportunities. We were able to get close to bird nests. Some eggs were still being sat on by the parents, some young birds were trying to swallow fish that seemed larger than the bird. We observed one turtle and two alligators.

Wakodahatchee wetlands-note bird egg

Wakodahatchee wetlands-note bird egg

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

Wakodahatchee wetlands

After lunch we visited the Norton Art Museum. Rain was threatening and inside activities seemed prudent. The art museum was founded by a Chicagoan who headed Acme Steel Company and believed Chicago did not need his extensive art collection. He had retired to West Palm Beach and the museum was established around his art collection.

Chihuly glass at Norton museum

Chihuly glass at Norton museum

We were able to look at several of their special exhibits. One was titled “industrial sublime”, which was focused around New York City and the Hudson river valley. A second collection was focused on “Baby Jane Holzer”, a well-known model and acquaintance of Andy Warhol. The third exhibit showcased the jewelry and design of David Webb.

Ed, Chris, Nelson at Norton museum

Ed, Chris, Nelson at Norton museum

Dinner was at a local Italian restaurant and then we zoomed back to Miami, dodging reckless, speeding drivers along I-95. Our tour guide at Wakulla Springs boat ride on Sunday considered the springs area as the “real Florida”. We keep joking that the “real Florida” is speeding drivers and South Beach.

Ed and Chris

Posted Wednesday, March 26 10 AM

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2014 Trip Two, March 22-24, The Deep South

Monday, March 24 Miami Beach

Well we are back on line. Had a slight glitch with the iPad and telephone technical support got it going again. I just forgot phone support existed and thought I would have to wait for an in person visit.

We are “home”; our regular Hilton Timeshare on Ocean Drive across the street from the ocean and park. Already got some groceries and had dinner at The Front Porch just half a block away. (Our waiter told us that Tom Brady and his second wife Gisele Bundchen have a unit in the high-rise condo across the street.) It was a 500 mile drive door to door from the Wakulla Springs Lodge south of Tallahassee. While I know there is speeding on the roadways everywhere, Florida drivers seem to take the award for greatest percentage of drivers dramatically exceeding the speed limit (like 15-20 mph over the limit).

Maclay Gardens State Park

Maclay Gardens State Park

Maclay Gardens

Maclay Gardens


On Saturday, we drove from Sandestin (Miramar Beach, FL) to Tallahassee. The weather was supposed to be rainy most of the weekend but on arrival, the skies were clear and we made Alfred Maclay Gardens State Park our first stop. A New York financier, Alfred Maclay created the gardens for his family’s southern retreat. He specifically designed the gardens to showcase flowers that bloom from December to April, the time of year that the family would be present.

Maclay Gardens State Park

Maclay Gardens State Park

The flowers here were blooming much better than the flowers were at Bellingrath last week. Today,we arrived in time for a park ranger tour; although other people were touring the gardens, we were the only ones to take advantage of her insights.

Reflecting pool at Maclay Gardens State Park

Reflecting pool at Maclay Gardens State Park

Maclay Gardens

Maclay Gardens


The home was not palatial, just well constructed. The gardens were more of the centerpiece. The live oak and spanish moss set off the azaleas, dogwood, etc.

After Maclay gardens, we stopped in at the Florida Historic Capitol Museum. In the 1970s, Florida constructed a new capitol and legislative chambers in the shape of a modern, high-rise office building. Florida is one of only four states to do this (ND, NE, and LA are the other three). The historic capitol was constructed in several phases from 1839 to 1947. The building is plain for a state capitol; reflecting Florida’s traditionally conservative fiscal policies.

Tallahassee is the far northern part of the state. When Florida became a territory in 1821, it had separate capitals at Pensacola and St. Augustine reflecting the structure Great Britain set up during its control from 1763-1783 (East and West Florida units). Tallahassee was chosen as the mid point to reduce travel time. In 1900, Florida voters went to the polls and Tallahassee was re-confirmed as the capital, beating out Jacksonville, St. Augustine, and Ocala.

Florida Historic Capital Museum, new capitol in background

Florida Historic Capital Museum, new capitol in background

The capitol museum recounts a summary of Florida history, reminding us again that Jim Crow laws and slavery had a strong hold on the state. While some of the Florida Indians were transferred forcibly to Oklahoma, others hid for years in remote areas.

Florida did not really grow until the 1920; it is currently the fourth most populous state in the Union. Florida reflected the southern pattern and it fought to keep segregation. The capitol museum seemed to portray the situation honestly but concisely.

We completed the day with church and settled in to our Airbnb abode for the evening. This was a one bedroom townhouse not too far from downtown Tallahassee.

Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park

Sunday, March 23rd again looked like it would be a rainy day. We headed out to Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park. Once again, money speaks. Edward Ball was a brother-in-law and business manager of Alfred DuPont. On a “scouting” expedition to find land to grow pulpwood in the 1920s, Ball came across Wakulla Springs. The springs pump out, on average, 225 million gallons of water a day. It had been a small lodge since before the Civil War. Ball recognized the need and value to preserve the springs and purchased the property, adding land to it over the years.

Lodge at Wakulla Springs

Lodge at Wakulla Springs

Ball personally handled all of the details of the new lodge construction including materials, building floor plan, etc. His original Tennessee marble is still used throughout the building. The lobby has a series of scenes painted by a German painter who had been the last court painter for Kaiser Wilhelm.

We went to Wakulla Springs for two reasons. First, to take the 9:40 boat tour before the rains came. Second, we would be spending the night there in the lodge.

Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park


Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park

The springs tour was an hour long, led by a retired park ranger who continues his love affair with the park by volunteering to lead tours. The park is home to a wide variety of animals and birds. I can not name most of the birds. We did see about a dozen alligators.

Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park


Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park

The waters are increasingly cloudy, not clear, due to tannic acid from trees and pollution from human development and agriculture. The area of the springs and park are remarkably clean and devoid of trash. (Younger persons can skip this next sentence or two.) Several of the Tarzan movies featuring Johnny Weissmuller and Maureen O’Sullivan were filmed at Wakulla Springs. Evidently, Ginger Stanley who did O’Sullivan’s underwater antics stayed in the room we slept in.

Wakulla Springs State Park

Wakulla Springs State Park

The springs discharge from a series of underground caverns developed in this karst geologic formation-last seen by us in Missouri and Arkansas. Teams of scuba divers have spent years exploring and charting the caverns,to date, over 30 miles of interconnected caverns have been discovered. One group of scuba divers planned out a 7 mile completely underground journey with air tanks stored underwater to provide enough oxygen for the journey. When it was completed, they had to stay underwater in special structures for 24 hours to decompress.

St. Marks Lighthouse

St. Marks Lighthouse

After lunch at the lodge, we drove to St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge and Lighthouse. This is on the Gulf of Mexico and is one of the oldest refuges in the national system. This part of Florida is called the Forgotten Coast since much of its land is owned by lumber companies and is not developed. The refuge includes a wide variety of habitats. Previous commercial uses included turpentine production, forestry, cattle raising, salt production, and limestone mining. We saw a dolphin, alligators, and numerous birds during our walks. The lighthouse dates back to 1842 and has survived wars and hurricanes.

Based on the recommendation of the boat tour guide, we stopped at the Gulf Specimen Aquarium. A combination of “touch tanks” and “looking tanks” allows one, if interested, to closely interact with diverse fish and amphibians. Talk about a bunch of ugly looking creatures. We made our stay there a brief one.

We finished Sunday with dinner at a local fish restaurant in Spring Creek (population 1700). The restaurant was half a block from the Gulf of Mexico. In fact, driving there, we saw the signs; “Dead End” and “Pavement Ends” before we saw the restaurant. The food was quite good. Chris had read about this place in a book she had picked up earlier in the day, “Off the Beaten Path-Florida”.

The lodge room at Wakulla Springs was quite spacious; the common areas more basic. No TV in the rooms and with the iPad dead (at that time) it was time for bed on another hard bed with flat pillows. One of the many reasons we were happy to reach South Beach today.

Ed and Chris Monday 11:25 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 20 and 21, Deep South

March 21, Miramar Beach, FL, Friday

We took a day off from blogging. The last two days have been just relaxing and without touring. The timeshare we are staying at, Club Intrawest, is a Canadian based company. The Sandestin resort has condos, homes, golf courses, marina, tennis (people were actually playing tennis here), single family homes, etc. It has its own shopping and dining stores. It is overrun with one item; golf carts.

Sandestin shopping area

Sandestin shopping area

I keep forgetting about the prevalence of golf carts in Florida resort areas. They are everywhere holding up traffic. They cart people to fishing, beaches, golf, groceries, what have you. They are as bad as cars, in that both creatures seem to park anywhere they want, not just in the direction of traffic, not always with the rear end properly parked but frequently sticking out into the traffic lane.

Boardwalk on the bay side

Boardwalk on the bay side

We went to the beach, stuck our toes in the water, felt the wondrously soft, white sand. But the temperature is just at 70, there is a breeze, and the water is cool. So we did not spend much time there. Our choice has been the heated pool and whirlpool. The wind is kept at bay here and the sun is plenty warm in those circumstances. Evidently, the weekend and early part of the week was rainy. It is likely that the rain will be returning as we head over to Tallahassee for two nights.

At the white sand beach

At the white sand beach

I went bike riding both mornings on one of those heavy, one speed “cruisers”. I should have brought my padded bike shorts, the seats must be made of metal with no padding. Chris did laundry and other household tasks. In the afternoons we were at the pools and whirlpool, falling asleep in the sun.

For those of you who may plan to come to Florida in the future and drive your own car, remember that Florida has toll roads in parts of the state, certainly around Orlando and Miami, and that the toll roads do not take cash. Florida does not accept EZ Pass, just like Texas and Oklahoma do not.

Part of the Sandestin resort area

Part of the Sandestin resort area

We purchased a mini-transponder for $5 at Publix markets. Florida takes pictures of the license plates of violators and follows up for payment. But the Sun Pass transponder we bought saves 25% on the toll rates and avoids the $2.50 administrative fee on each violation. So it should be a cost saving device.

Ed and CHris March 21, 7:10 pm

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2014, Trip Two, March 19, Deep South

Wednesday, March 19, Sandestin Resort, Miramar Beach, FL

Well, we may just stay put and relax for two days. The worst traffic of the last two weeks occurred on 55 miles from Pensacola to Miramar Beach, FL. It took 40 minutes just to get over the bridge from Pensacola. So woe is us, having to deal with traffic on a sunny day in Florida. I know you Northerners are deeply sympathetic.

Our travel plans changed a bit. The ferry over Mobile Bay was only running one ferry today and the wait for it seemed excessive so we drove around the bay instead; finishing our time at Fort Morgan as the ferry was arriving.

A view of Fort Morgan with an off-shore oil rig in the background.

A view of Fort Morgan with an off-shore oil rig in the background.

Fort Morgan was a classic star shape fortress with construction begun after the War of 1812. By the end of the Civil War, advancements in armaments made this style and construction of fort obsolete. Some concrete reinforcements were made near the end of the 1800s but no major action occured after the Civil War.

The fort played a notable role in the battle of Mobile Bay as union forces were able to capture Mobile and the fort. Union Admiral Farragut was nearly trapped by the Confederates but boldly sailed through a Confederate torpedo/mine field to escape the situation. (Another union captain had tried the maneuver and his ship sunk after hitting a mine.) This is the battle where the saying is supposed to have occurred: “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.”

Overhead at the fort: A young man was telling his female companion that if the British had declared earlier for the Confederacy, the War of Northern Aggression (the Civil War) would have gone for the South.

Tidbit: the state holidays for Alabama are as follows: New Year’s Day; Robert E. Lee and Martin Luther Jr. Birthday; George Washington and Thomas Jefferson (not Abraham Lincoln) birthday; Mardi Gras but only around Mobile; Confederate Memorial Day; National Memorial Day; Jefferson Davis Birthday; Independence Day; Labor Day; Columbus Day-Fraternal Day-American Indian Heritage Day; Veterans Day; Thanksgiving; and Christmas.

Our drive to Sandestin was via the scenic ocean route instead of the Interstates. In this case, scenic means primarily coastal resorts and condos, fast food restaurants and strip malls. We did manage to find a small, local fruit/garden stand and bought some strawberry bread to have for breakfast tomorrow.

View of Gulf of Mexico from Gulf Islands National Seashore

View of Gulf of Mexico from Gulf Islands National Seashore

We took a longer ocean drive to visit the Gulf Islands National Seashore. The seashore stretches from Mississippi to Florida. A small stretch between Pennsacola and Destin was all we could squeeze in.

Sunset is coming to Sandestin

Sunset is coming to Sandestin

Sandestin is a gated community consisting of 4 golf courses, multiple resorts/hotels and numerous single family dwellings. It stretches from the Gulf of Mexico ocean area to the Gulf of Mexico bay side. The Intrawest where we are staying is only about 50 units. It is a switch from the Bed and Breakfasts that have been our mainstay for the last weeks.

Sunset on bay side

Sunset on bay side

We have given up the friendly and knowledgeable innkeepers and their unique, home cooked meals for modern showers, spacious room, full kitchen, etc. Some of the B and B’s in the south had pools that had not opened yet; here we have two pools and whirlpools and ocean access via a shuttle or a long walk. We may not have much to report for the next two days.

Ed and Chris 10:20 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 18, Deep South

Mobile, Tuesday March 18

Berney Fly B and B

Berney Fly B and B

Well tonight is our last night at Berney Fly B and B, one of only two remaining B and B’s in Mobile. We have enjoyed our time here and appreciated the local insights given by Steve.

The day started at the Mobile History Museum, reviewing the exhibits about the history of the city. It began as a French territory, went over to the British, then the Spanish took over and finally it went U.S. in 1813. Wrought and composite iron was used extensively in Mobile construction. However, during WWII, the people of Mobile sacrificed much of the iron works for conversion into armaments. Its location on Mobile Bay made it a major ship building site during the two world wars. Some ship building continues.

Outside front of one of the miniature houses

Outside front of one of the miniature houses

View of interior of miniature house

View of interior of miniature house

One room  detail

One room detail

There was a special display unrelated to Mobile history that we also enjoyed. A local man made numerous miniature houses, down to intricate detail for interior decorations. The craftsmanship was amazing.

Bellingrath home

Bellingrath home

Our major destination for the day was Bellingrath Gardens. This was once the home and grounds of the local Coca Cola bottler and his wife. It was originally the site of a fishing camp along the Fowl River because the husband was ordered by his doctor to take more time off from work. The gardens were developed over many years and without children, Mr. Bellingrath established a foundation to run it and the home after their deaths.

The grotto and steps leading to Fowl River

The grotto and steps leading to Fowl River

The gardens encompass 65 acres. Due to this winter’s colder weather, we arrived at a time when many buds were out but the mass blooming of flowers for which we were hoping had not materialized. The camellias are ending their time, azaleas and other rhododendrons are just starting.

Some of the blooming flowers

Some of the blooming flowers

Not that we did not enjoy the garden. The sun was out and temperatures rose to the mid 60s. There was enough color around the garden to make for a pleasant stroll. There is a boardwalk along the river and bayou. When Sarah told us St.Paul was to receive 3-5 inches of snow today and tonight, the day seemed even better.

The sign says "Drink Coca Cola" in  Japanese

The sign says “Drink Coca Cola” in Japanese

Before dinner, we stopped at the Mobile Botanical Garden. It has just been designated an exceptional garden by the International Camellia Association. There were fewer blooms here, much of the Garden’s mission is to educate gardeners. But it was another pleasant stroll for the late afternoon.

Mobile Botanical Gardens

Mobile Botanical Gardens

Dinner was at The Brick Pit, a local Bar B Q joint highly ranked by various groups and by our hosts. The ribs were some of the meatiest we have tasted.

So tomorrow it is off to Florida via another ferry and our first look at the white sand beaches of the Gulf Coast.

Ed and Chris at Bellingrath

Ed and Chris at Bellingrath

Ed and Chris 9:05 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 17, Deep South

Monday, March 17 Mobile AL

Happy St. Pat’s Day to all of the Irish and the Irish wannabe’s out there.

No Civil War or Civil Rights today. We are in L.A.; Lower Alabama to y’all. On the advice of Steve from Berney Fly, we went to the Mardi Gras museum. I will not be able to fully describe the Mobile Mardi Gras culture but will try to summarize it a bit for you.

First, Mobile is the first U.S. city to celebrate Mardi Gras. Second, the parades are much more family friendly. Third, there are parades beginning three weeks prior to Ash Wednesday. Fourth (A), there are about 60 Mardi Gras societies, about 30 of which sponsor parades. Fourth (B), each society’s parade is separate and distinct from all of the others with seniority in tenure deciding when their parade is held.

Fifth, there are two Mardi Gras associations, one black and one white and the royalty attend each other’s functions. Sixth, Mardi Gras in Mobile is an opportunity to have social get togethers, whether those be family re-unions, social groups. fraternities, what have you.

Seventh, Mardi Gras parties begin at Thanksgiving and continue until Ash Wednesday. Eighth, at Mardi Gras parties, men must wear white tails and ties and women floor length gowns. It is said that outside of Los Angeles, Mobile uses more full dress white tie and tails than any other city.

A recent King and Queen robe and  train.

A recent King and Queen robe and train.

Ninth, the king and queen must be over 21, single, and foot the bill (or their parents) for the robe and train (see pictures) which can cost as much as a new car. The heaviest train weighed 60 pounds and actually had ball bearings under the bottom end of the train to help it roll along. Tenth, the parade route is two miles but the kings and queens and court get to ride, it is at the balls that they must pull the train along and mount the stairs to their throne.

The 60 lb train

The 60 lb train

Eleventh, Mardi Gras is Fat Tuesday (before Ash Wednesday) while Carnival is the entire season of balls and parades up to Ash Wednesday. Balls seem to start at Thanksgiving while the formal start of Carnival begins on the feast of the Epiphany (Jan. 6).

Several of the recent robes and trains

Several of the recent robes and trains

How do we know this? From Steve and from the docent at the Museum. The museum is an amazing collection of memorabilia and history. Oh, the woman taking our admission fee was the queen in 1955. In Mobile, the Mardi Gras tradition has continued for generations and families are still involved. Schools and businesses close for the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. School bands are normally in the parades separating the floats. That is a lot of band time. We learnt a lot more; we have forgotten a lot already; and hopefully have not stated anything incorrectly.

USS Alabama

USS Alabama

After the museum, we headed out to the USS Alabama battleship complex. We spent a long time clambering up, down and through the battleship. That is one big ship! It takes about 2500 sailors and marines to man the boat. The self-guided tour goes up eight levels and down three or four. We managed to only bump heads once on the traipsing up and down. The stairs are steep and ladder like. Women are not recommended to wear skirts on this tour.

A view from  the bow of the boat.

A view from the bow of the boat.

The ship was de-commissioned after WWII and brought here in 1965 as a memorial. The memorial park has an aviation hall showcasing numerous WWII and after military planes; a WWII submarine-which we also toured; and numerous tanks and amphibious vehicles.

sub interior  corridor

sub interior corridor

The battleship tour includes going through the turrets that house the ship’s big guns. Math majors, statisticians, and engineers would appreciate one factoid listed on the tour: The big guns are accurate to 20.97 miles away. (Not 21 miles, not 21.9 miles, but 20.97 miles)

Bunk area for USS Alabama crew

Bunk area for USS Alabama crew

We have a greater appreciation of the conditions sailors endured, and probably still do.

Afterwards we had a late, light lunch at Felix’s. This is a must-see that deserves its reputation. Long, long lines are common here but today’s rain, cold, and 2 pm time made it easy to get in. The crab bisque soup was fantastic. A drive down the east side of Mobile Bay to Fairhope finished off the afternoon.

Our evening entertainment was spent at the opera-somewhat. The Mobile Opera on the third Monday of each month has an event where the opera singers come to a local restaurant and perform a medley of tunes ranging from classics like “Danny Boy” and “My Little Valentine” to opera songs that I could not identify. They sing while the rest of us eat dinner. The event is held at a very nice restaurant that is normally closed on Mondays.

We took another guest at the B and B to it. She was down here for a historic homes tour this weekend and her car broke down. She is waiting for a clutch part for a 1996 Saab to arrive from her mechanic in Atlanta. We could sympathize with her situation.

When the singing began, we three were still talking and a woman at the next table “shushed” us. We got the hint. But then we noticed that the table was quite noisy as new songs were being sung. It struck me as a little hypocritical to tell us to be quiet when they were not. At an intermission, we got to talking with a woman at that table and she happened to mention that one of the women at her table was the mother of one of the singers and would hush everyone when her son was performing. Then we understood.

We believe today is likely to be our last coolish day. Shorts, sandals, etc may be in our future.

As they say in Mobile, “Let the good times roll”.

Ed and Chris 10:15 pm March 17

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