travel

Our road trips around the U.S.

2014 Trip Four, May 10, The Southwest

Monument Valley AZ Friday May 16

Post for Saturday May 10, Lake Powell

Morning dawned and miracle of miracles, the houseboat was still anchored at the location we had beached it. The winds and the waves had made the boat sway during the night but it was still beached. Some slept soundly through the night, others not so much due to concern of being unanchored. Unfortunately Joyce was not feeling well and ear/sinus issues would plague her for most of the trip.

Out powerboating Saturday May 10

Out powerboating Saturday May 10

The five others went for a power boat ride, with Dave doing the driving. We explored Padre Bay and its many coves. The water level is low and so even Dave and Toni were viewing new formations. In warmer weather, these coves are locations where people would park their boat and go swimming. Many of the boats have slides for people to land in the water. Today’s water temperature was not conducive for that.

Padre Bay is large

Padre Bay is large

At one location, we were all amazed by the sight of a rock arch along the water’s edge. As we got closer, we realized the sun’s angle and the colors of the rock had created an optical illusion and there was no arch.

One of the coves off Padre Bay

One of the coves off Padre Bay

With Dave driving, we were comfortable coming closer to the edge of the cliffs and seeing the rock formations from just a few feet away.

exploring Padre Bay

exploring Padre Bay

We stopped and beached the boat once and went for a short hike among the rocks, Since we were unsure how secure the beaching was, we did not stray too far from the boat. All in all, we spent most of the morning out boating.

walking around on Saturday

walking around on Saturday

Lou checking out the rocks

Lou checking out the rocks

The afternoon started getting cloudy and windy and the group stayed on the houseboat. Dinner was spaghetti and meatballs with Joyce’s homemade meatballs.

The clouds start gathering

The clouds start gathering

This night, the wind and rain came and rocked the boat quite a bit. Chris repeated her mantra “out of my comfort zone” quite a few times but the anchors held.

Ed and Chris May 17 at 7 am for May 10 Still getting caught up for after a week of no internet

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Thursday May 15 Page AZ and back on the grid-somewhat.

It has been a week since we last posted anything. I will try to get caught up over time. It may be hit or miss. We are staying tonight at the Lake Powell resort right by the marina where we rented the houseboat. The hotel only has internet in the lobby and my hotspot is still slow-but operational. The lodging for the next three nights is in Monument Valley Utah/Arizona and I am not sure internet connections will be better.

We thought houseboating on Lake Powell would be an adventure. We got it-and more. Yes, we thoroughly had a great time but it was work and nervousness also. I hope I can do the full story justice. It may come out in bits and pieces over several postings as we get caught up to a week without internet.

WE rented a houseboat at Wahweap Marina, part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation area formed by the construction of the Glen Canyon dam completed in 1966. The damming of the Colorado River has created the second largest reservoir in the US. The reservoir,Lake Powell, has created a water mecca in the middle of the desert. (No ecological or environmental analyses today.)

Our trip was born of a conversation early last winter as Chris and I were planning another southwest US trip. We mentioned our thoughts to Lucien and Joyce, who live in Phoenix, and we agreed on a joint adventure. Boy, there was no way Chris and I could have done this by ourselves. Lou did a wonderful job talking to colleagues who have done this and researching options. We ended up getting a great, pre-summer price on a 53′ boat that is the top of the economy line. (Picture on May 8 posting.) There were two staterooms, two bathrooms, two refrigerators and two lower level sleeping areas. There was a combined kitchen/living room, upper deck, and decks on the aft and stern ends of the boat.

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

We did our homework. We practiced tying boating knots. We read reviews and made lists of the items we should bring with us. We had pie tins prepared to run the anchor ropes through to prevent mice and shore critters from running up the anchor ropes and getting on board the boat. We agreed we would also rent a powerboat to more easily go exploring in narrow canyons. Joyce was designated captain since she had experience driving powerboats-although not houseboats. Joyce worked up the menu and Lou and Joyce brought most of the food and supplies. A colleague of Lou and his wife, Dave and Toni, agreed to join us for the weekend. They had boated here before and provided not only great companionship but also technical knowledge.

Another member of our group was Manning, Lou and Joyce’s new Corgi. He behaved fantastically. Took to the houseboat, powerboat, romping on the sandy beach and rocky areas alike. Never made a mess, was quiet, well-behaved but never fully warmed up to Chris and Ed.

along lake Powell

along lake Powell

Dave and Toni arrived at 8 am Friday and by 8:30 we were receiving our instructions. All of us listened in to share the knowledge. The gas tank had not been topped off so it necessitated a stop at the fueling station before we headed out. Ah, heading out. Wisely Joyce decided to opt for the free pilot services to get the boat out of the dock. Even the pilot bumped a few things and it gave Joyce some experience in observing how to handle tight corners. The pilot gets a ride back to the dock once the boat is past the breakwater. The power boat is picked up separately and Lou and Dave drove that out to the breakwater, tied it to the rear of the houseboat and we were off around 11 AM.

Along  Lake Powell

Along Lake Powell

The views were breathtaking. Canyon walls are all around you. The width of the channel varies, sometimes narrow leading to driving challenges to avoid other boaters. Sometimes the channel is wide with coves and bays leading off of it and despite periodic marker buoys, you are constantly using binoculars to spot the main channel ahead. There are also areas where you have to slow down, to avoid creating wakes in marinas or narrow channels.

Along Lake powell

Along Lake powell

Initially we thought about “beaching” the houseboat in two or three locations during the week we had it. Our first spot had to be relatively close to the marina since we had to return Dave and Toni on Sunday afternoon. It is 150 miles on the Lake from first to last marina. Gunsight Bay was our first choice, only about 20 miles from Wahweap. The houseboat goes about 8-10 miles per hour. The optimal location would be on the west side of the bay, protected from winds, and several turns into the bay to protect from waves on the main channel. It had to be rockless, room to anchor, shallow enough to beach the boat but without getting stuck in mud, and it had to be available-other boaters are out and have the same goals. After three hours, we lucked out with a spot at the very end of Gunsight Bay.

Houseboat beached

Houseboat beached

“Beaching’ the boat involves several steps. After the captain rams the boat onto the shore, the crew gets to go dig holes. Four anchors have to be placed in holes three feet deep and several feet long and wide. Two anchors are to be at about 45 degree angles and two anchors at about 60 degree angles. They have to be placed far enough on shore to avoid rising waters. (The sand was heavy and rocks were abundant.) Wind and storms come up frequently and pull at the boat.

View from our beached  houseboat site

View from our beached houseboat site

The anchoring of the boat was Chris’ biggest concern during the week. The lake level rose each night as snow melt from the Colorado mountains came down river. We had wind gusts of 35 mph Saturday and Sunday night that pulled at the boat, making it sway in the wind. Over the week’s period, we dug new holes once for each anchor to move it higher up the shore. Chris’ frequent mantra was “This is outside of my comfort zone.”

The Friday night meal was hamburgers cooked on the grill on the bow of the boat.

Ed and Chris Friday May 16 11:15 AM

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Page AZ May 9

Well I am trying for pictures here. Still at dock. We shall see what happens.

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Red Mesa AZ

Red Mesa AZ

Two pics ok, then it slowed down.
Ed 6 am

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2014 Trip Four, May 8, The Southwest

Lake Powell, Page, AZ Thursday May 8

Home for the next 7 nights

Home for the next 7 nights

The Adventure Has Begun. We made it to Page and are on the houseboat. Normally the houseboat rental runs from Friday morning to early Thursday afternoon. We paid extra to pre-board the boat Thursday evening. You still can’t leave the marina but you can unload your car and arrange your stuff on the boat. Boy, this seems to be a real life saver so far.

Well, down in by the water my hot spot is not getting good enough connection to attach pictures. So I am uploading this (hopefully) with just the one picture and maybe can do more at another time.

The four of us have our clothing to arrange in a closet and no shelves. Oh, and no hangers. We have food and beverages for a week. (I have given up milk for the duration.) We have miscellaneous odds and ends like beach towels and first aid kit, etc. Storage space is at a premium. We also made a last minute run to Safeway and Walmart (sorry) for ice, etc. If we had to wait Friday morning for our turn to be processed and then load the boat, we wouldn’t get out of the marina until the middle of the afternoon.

Tomorrow morning we should get priority check out. Then we will see how well, or if, we can handle the houseboat. We have been told internet connection is good in the middle of the lake. But we will be beached at night in coves and in canyons. If you do not see a post for several days, we just do not have connections.

The day started in Durango CO will temperatures in the mid-30s, clouds and a few brief snow showers. The weather improved as we drove west. We had to be here early before the office closed at 5 to finish paperwork and we only stopped once for a brief visit at Four Corners, the location where Utah, New Mexico, Arizona and Colorado come together.

The Navajo nation runs the 4 corners monument. They charge $5 per person admission. I guess they need to make money some how. The site is bare bones; but they have managed to install four sides of brick enclosures so native arts and crafts can be sold. We took a few pictures and kept going.

The drive through Arizona returned to the Southwest theme of canyons, buttes, mesas and red rock. Juniper and pinon trees were growing in some locations. The rock formations can be striking. I expect we will see many more over the course of the next few weeks.

We did squeeze in a visit to the Glen Canyon dam. We did not take the tour, we have toured several others including Hoover, Grand Coulee, and one other along the Columbia river. The region is still suffering from a drought period, we can see where the water level had been much higher on the rocks by the dam.

Ed and Chris 11:45 pm

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2014 Trip Four, May 7, The Southwest

Durango CO Wednesday May 7

Pike's Peak viewed from west of Limon CO

Pike’s Peak viewed from west of Limon CO

We have returned to the mountains. We got an early start today since most of the driving was on two lane roads. The road from Limon to Colorado Springs begins in ranching area and soon reaches the ‘burbs. Our first glimpse of Pikes Peak came along this road.

Driving along I-25

Driving along I-25

A quick drive down I-25 with its gusty winds brought us to Walsenburg. Along the way, I-25 is edged with tall mountains on the west side, making the drive quite scenic. The weather cooperated on this stretch, with sunny skies. We will be returning to Pueblo and Colorado Springs at the back end of this trip and will spend several days here.

Driving to Alamosa

Driving to Alamosa

Walsenburg began our drive along US 160. For the first half of the drive, the road is in the valley with mountain ranges north and south. The Sangre de Christo mountains to the north were particularly attractive. We had lunch at a local brewpub in Alamosa.

Along San Juan river driving to Durango

Along San Juan river driving to Durango

Past Alamosa, the drive is in the mountains. The clouds gathered, the temperatures dropped, and we experienced a few brief snow showers. The road was still wide, though, and not nerve-wracking.

In the San Juan Mountains on the way to Durango

In the San Juan Mountains on the way to Durango

We arrived in Durango around 4 pm and plan to do some laundry before being on the houseboat for 7 nights. Tomorrow’s drive will be through mountains and desert. We need to be in Page AZ in plenty of time to finalize the houseboat paperwork.

Ed and Chris 6:50 pm

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2014 Trip Four, May 6, The Southwest

Limon CO Tuesday May 6

We gained 4000 feet in elevation today driving from Lincoln NE (about 1175 feet) to Limon CO (about 5375) and we can not even see any mountains. The Plains have a very gradual incline that is only periodically noticeable. The drive includes a varying set of flat land and rolling hills. The colors can be quite enchanting but it is still a long drive.

A normal view today

A normal view today

Two major stops were included today. The Homestead National Monument of America is located outside Beatrice NE and recognizes the impact of the Homestead Act, the 1862 law that gave 160 acres of surveyed, government land to anyone who improved the land with a cabin and continually planted crops for five years. Daniel Freeman persuaded a land agent to open his doors at just after midnight when the law became effective so he could return to his Union regiment. He is anecdotally credited with being the first homesteader and the monument is on his land that he “proved up”.

Daniel Freeman cabin

Daniel Freeman cabin

One exhibit at National Homestead Monument

One exhibit at National Homestead Monument

One of the excellent displays in the center is titled “Opportunity and Displacement” The Homestead Act had a transformative impact on America. For European immigrants, the real promise of land of their own, not servitude, was like manna from heaven. 1,600,000 homestead applications were proved up, resulting in the massive populating of the vast reaches of the US west of the Mississippi River. (There were some east of the river, but most were west.) The US concept of private property which distinguished it from the Spanish colonization in South America gained an even stronger foothold. The re-settling of people intent on farming created markets for railroads, and the impetus of development of farming materials and barbed wire.

Times were rough before the Dust Bowl of the 1930s. Locust plagues were not uncommon. Much of the land was not close to water and the climate was arid. The disruption of the naturally prairie grasses caused erosion and habitat destruction.

Displacement refers obviously to the impact on the American Indian and the continuation of the taking of their land and broken treaties. Their way of life was destroyed. The Park Service does an excellent job presenting the complex issues involved in all of these topics.

Our drive continued on two lane roads through the farmlands of Nebraska and Kansas until we reached Abilene, Kansas. This once wild cattle drive town was the boyhood home of Dwight D. Eisenhower. We visited his boyhood home, presidential library and museum. Dwight, his five brothers and parents lived on the “wrong side of the tracks” but all six became successful. On V-E Day when a reporter asked Mrs. Eisenhower if she was proud of her son, she asked: “Which one?”

Eisenhower boyhood home in Abilene KS

Eisenhower boyhood home in Abilene KS

Mrs. Eisenhower died in 1946 and the home was purchased directly by the foundation planning a veterans memorial which was converted into the presidential library and museum along with the home. The home is modest and includes the family furnishings in the house in 1946. Indoor plumbing was added when Dwight was 18.

Living room of the home

Living room of the home

The museum was overwhelming, primarily covering WWII and his presidency. I had forgotten that Ike was promoted to Supreme Allied Commander in WWII over hundreds of higher ranking officers. Quite a recommendation, since he did not obtain combat duty during WWI. We could have spent more time here but after almost three hours, we had to get moving, we were still in eastern Kansas.

Luckily we knew that the time zone change would occur today. This gave us an extra driving hour. We made it to Limon, CO (population 1868) by 7:45 MDT.

Ed and Chris 10:20 pm MDT

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2014 Trip Four, May 5, The Southwest

May 5, Monday, Lincoln NE

Trip Four Has Begun!!!! The exclamation points are deserved. This trip was to begin 6 days ago. Due to the exceptional helpfulness of four different dentists, we are lucky to be underway at all. We had two planned dental appointments scheduled for the 8 days we were between trips three and four. A crown was delayed by an unexpected root canal. The replacement of a temporary to a permanent filling was later supplemented by another unexpected root canal.

One dentist came in on his day off, did prep work for the delayed crown for Chris, squeezed Ed in without an appointment, and took Chris’ crown mold and hand delivered it to the dental lab. Another dentist took Chris in and did her root canal expeditiously. A third dentist was able to fit Ed in due to a cancellation and the fourth, miracle of miracles, just happened to have a root canal cancellation called in the previous afternoon for the time at which dentist three said, oops, Ed you need a root canal.

Chris healed great, Ed was a little slower. His slowness necessitated us to drop Austin TX, the Texas hill country and Big Bend National Park. The difference in the two travel plans are shown in MapQuest maps at the end of the blog. Six less days, 1000 less miles and a different route to Page AZ where the first new adventure will be houseboating on Lake Powell.

site of the first robbery of a moving train

site of the first robbery of a moving train

Today was planned to be a simple travel day but once underway we realized we had missed the allure of the open road. We made two stops in west central Iowa. Our first stop was the site of the first robbery of a moving train! I know, you expected to see a large museum but instead it was a nicely done highway marker just west of Adair IA. The plaque commemorates the date of July 21, 1873 when Jesse James (yes, that one) and his gang robbed a Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific railroad by pulling out the spikes holding the rails and then separating the two rails. This action killed both the engineer and the fireman in the crash.

Jesse had information that $75,000 in gold was to be coming from Cheyenne WY on this train. However, the gold shipment was delayed and they only got $3,000. Justice of a sorts arrived in 1882 when a member of the gang was tempted by reward money on Jesse’s head and killed him in the James home in St. Joseph, MO.

Danish windmill in Elk  Horn IA

Danish windmill in Elk Horn IA

Twenty miles west of Adair is the town of Elk Horn, IA, supposedly the largest rural Danish settlement in the U.S. (exact numbers were not given). In the 1970s, the community raised funds and purchased a windmill made in Denmark in 1848. They had it dismantled, numbering each piece, constructed a working model, and shipped the pieces and the model to Elkhart where volunteer labor re-built the windmill in 12 months.

The windmill still works although it was not turning today. It provides an interesting juxtaposition to the surrounding area where there are at least hundreds if not thousands of wind turbines running. Denmark has one of the largest manufacturers of wind turbines and while we did not climb the turbines to see who the manufacturer was, we will say they were of Danish design.

Elk Horn is just west of Adair which at 1,471 feet above sea level is the highest point in southern IA. The hills and ridges along this section of I-80 appeared to have even more wind turbines than the Buffalo Ridge area along I-90 in southwestern MN.

Danish American museum with two original street lights from Copenhagen out front

Danish American museum with two original street lights from Copenhagen out front

Elk Horn hosts the Danish American Library and Archives, a modern building with interesting exhibits on Denmark, its history, people (Danes spell Christensen with an “e” at the end which I learned years ago from a co-worker in PA), migration, religion, etc. We spent an interesting hour reviewing the exhibits and recalling a brief trip we made to Tyler MN two years ago which was another Danish settlement in America.

A few facts. CA, UT and MN have the largest number of Danes. Utah is high since a number of Danes converted to Mormonism and due to religious persecution (Lutheranism was the state religion at the time), they emigrated to the US and Utah. Some notable modern Danish companies are Maersk shipping, Lego, and Novo Nordisk. Muslims are currently about 4% of the population in Denmark, immigrating in since the 1970s. The archives are undergoing an expansion due to the number of artifacts they own.

Thus, a few tidbits to spice up an otherwise basic travel day.

Ed and Chris 8 pm

2014trip4

Revised Trip 4 of 2014

Revised Trip 4 of 2014

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2014 Trip Three, April 20, Boston

Easter Sunday, April 20, Boston

Final full day in Boston. We return home tomorrow and will be home until departing for Trip Four on Tuesday April 29 for 7 weeks in the Southwest.

MA State Capitol from Boston Commons

MA State Capitol from Boston Commons

Easter has been a great day. We drove downtown to the Paulist Center in Boston again, for 10 AM Mass. It was projected to be crowded, aren’t most Easter services crowded? We arrived early so I went for a walk around Boston Commons. Tomorrow is the big day for the race and while the finish line is well before this area, the Commons area is one of many post-race gathering areas and the staging area for satellite TV trucks. People in spandex were everywhere, getting in a run or just being a tourist.

Easter  Brunch at Scollay Square

Easter Brunch at Scollay Square

After Mass we went to Scollay Square for brunch and then back home for a restful afternoon. We exchanged Easter baskets, your kids never really grow up, you know. One item we brought was a puzzle of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (2013 Trip 7, UP of Michigan). Upon completion, it was obvious quality control was faulty since about six border pieces were missing. I managed to finish the second of the two paperback novels I had received upon arrival.

Easter baskets

Easter baskets

I was put to work however. Apple crisp is one of my few cooking specialties so a large pan was prepared, and as of now, has not yet been completely devoured.

Apple crisp

Apple crisp

Ed and Chris Sunday April 20 7:30 pm

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2014, Trip Trip Three, April 18-19,Boston

Boston-Newton MA Saturday April 19

Spring is starting to pop up as the flowering trees start to show off their colors. As we drive around Boston, we reflect on how a mature Eastern city looks. Homes that are unique and not cookie cutter. Home colors that vary and have multiple contrasts, not all earth tones. Roads that never, ever go straight, only around curves and up and down slight hills. Lack of meaningful zoning so residences, retail, and industry are side by side. Dense areas with “Thickly Settled” signs so frequent you wonder why they don’t just put up a sign “Unthickly Settled” every now and then. It is amazing anyone can find their way around; I am not sure if the lack of street name signs is a budget saving device or a means to confuse visitors.

This trip is more relaxing and family and Easter oriented. Friday we took it easy in the morning and went to Good Friday services in the afternoon, again in downtown Boston. Dinner was at one of the Legal Seafood restaurants by the Aquarium and Long Wharf.

Jason Russell house Arlington MA

Jason Russell house Arlington MA

Deb and Rebecca are the co-chairs for their church’s major fund-raiser next Saturday night. They still have details to complete so while they worked today, Chris and I headed out to Arlington. We were going to the Jason Russell house on the suggestion of friends in MN. This was the site of a bloody encounter between the Brits and minute-men as the Brits were retreating from Concord and Lexington. We were pretty sure it would be closed since the web site stated it was open from Patriots Day until the end of September. But the friends had lived here so we thought we would stop by anyway.

Menotomy Park

Menotomy Park

The house and museum were closed, Patriots Day is Monday. After walking around the site, we headed to Menotomy Rocks Park. (Menotomy was the previous name for Arlington.) This was just a local but nearby park with some hills and a lake for walking around. We got our exercise and fresh air. We also got a donut and some milk at Dunkin Donut.

Menotomy Park

Menotomy Park

For dinner the four of us drove out to Worcester about an hour away and met Pete and Flo Sheils (Rebecca’s parents) for dinner at an Italian restaurant. We have always enjoyed our time with them and appreciated their being able to drive up and get together.

Dinner with Pete and Flo

Dinner with Pete and Flo

Chris and Ed April 19 10:15 pm

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2014 Trip Three, April 16-17, Boston

Boston, Friday April 18

We are in Boston to visit Deb and Rebecca for the Easter weekend. This will likely be the only trip this year by air and will be the shortest at 6 days. Trip One, Dogsledding in Ely was planned to be only five days but stretched to seven due to the winter car problems.

We had good news yesterday. Silver, our 2001 Saturn with 194,000 miles on it (50,000 in the last year) only needs minor maintenance work to put it ready for the next 8,000 or so miles. The brakes were acting up a bit towards the end of the trip but minor tweaking will resolve that.

Our Nikon camera has been replaced. It is still just a point and shoot but a slightly upgraded version. This one has a flash that pops up automatically when needed. Deb and Rebecca say it reminds them of Wall-E, from the movie of the same name. So it has been christened. The other camera was not unique enough to be named.

I had packed the camera in my suitcase for the flight. Would you not know that this is the first flight we can recall to Boston in which we arrived during daylight hours without cloud cover. The view of Boston Harbor and its island was great. You will have to take my word for it.

This trip will be more relaxing and less rushing around. We have been to Boston many times. The roads are still confusing and the drivers still aggressive. But we made it to Deb’s without getting lost.

Walden Pond

Walden Pond

Thursday we went on just one little jaunt, out to Walden Pond, site of Henry David Thoreau’s famous book. It is a state park today. By the way, he was originally named David Henry Thoreau. We walked around the lake on a chilly but sunny day. The pond was not frozen although there were a few patches of icy snow deep in the shade. Grass is green but most trees have not leafed out yet, not much different from St. Paul. You can see the lake and train tracks from his cabin area. The train tracks were here when he was here in the 1840s, today Amtrak zips along them.

View of Walden Pond from Thoreau's cabin site

View of Walden Pond from Thoreau’s cabin site

The Civil Rights theme from Trip Two, Deep South, seems to want to keep us thinking. In the bookstore at the State Park are numerous books about slavery and the abolitionist movement that was prominent in the Boston area. There were also two books about slavery in this area. I did not buy any, I am still reading “The Warmth of Other Suns” picked up in Birmingham about black migration from the South to the North during the period form WWI to the 1970s.

Deb

Deb

In the evening we went to Maundy Thursday services at the Paulist Center in downtown Boston where Deb and Rebecca go. The Mass includes the ritual of washing of feet as Christ did. Unlike Pope Francis who only washed the feet of twelve men and women in Rome, anyone in the church could come up and have their feet washed and then wash those of the next person in line. While we passed, many people participated which of course adds to the length of the service. My dad and Chris’s dad would have fretted at the length of time the service went on. I only got antsy.

Monday is Patriots Day in Boston and the Boston Marathon will be run. We saw numerous signs of the preparation for it. “Boston Strong” signs and colors are numerous. Boston Commons
had numerous tents up though the finish line is a few blocks away near the Convention Center. Chris and I had observed one marathon many years ago when we were here for a legal administrators conference.

Ed and Chris Friday April 18

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