road trip

2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 16

Tacoma, July 16 Tuesday

acorn and leaf

acorn and leaf


Glass museum item

Glass museum item


Tacoma is the birthplace of Dale Chihuly, a well-known glass sculptor. We went with Pat and Harold to the Tacoma Museum of Glass and the Glass Bridge. These two places were initial linchpins in the redevelopment of the Tacoma waterfront and are tied directly to Chihuly and his international reputation.

The Museum may have been initially focused around Chihuly but now exhibits major artists in glass sculpture from around the world. The current exhibit ties together the pacific northwest with Australian glass artists. It presents glass art with a vision I had not expected. As an example, the exhibit features pieces that resemble textiles or paintings.

Inside the museum is also a “hot shop” where artists work while visitors view. There is also a program whereby amateurs can develop their own piece with oversight by an artist. Their web site has a live streaming camera view during operating hours.

Walkway with glass sculpture

Walkway with glass sculpture

ceiling  view of sea life on walkway

ceiling view of sea life on walkway

Part of the redevelopment of the waterfront included the Bridge of Glass. This bridge to the museum is set over the interstate below that leads into downtown Tacoma. The pedestrian bridge is comprised of three sections. First is a walkway with glass art sculptures encased in the ceiling. Looking like sea creatures, it gives the feeling of walking underwater.

Two glass columns on walkway of glass

Two glass columns on walkway of glass

Second are two glass towers in seafoam green-almost the color of some of the lakes and rivers we saw in Canada which had rock dust in them. They rise some 40 feet above the walkway and although we did not experience it, are lit at night.

Columns on Glass walkway

Columns on Glass walkway

Third is a section with glass sculptures embedded in a clear wall. You walk by and view about 100 glass sculptures.

All of this viewing made us hungry so we had lunch at A Renaissance Cafe. Small, locally owned and food was great. Posters on the wall and psychedelic posters in the restroom. Keith the owner served us.

Lunch at A Renaissance Cafe

Lunch at A Renaissance Cafe

Psychedelic bathroom at A Renaissance Cafe

Psychedelic bathroom at A Renaissance Cafe

Dinner with Pat and Harold with leftovers from last night’s Italian dinner and dessert from Trader Joe’s.

Ed and Chris July 16 9:30 pm

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 15

Tacoma, WA July 15 Monday

Well, happy birthday to me and happy one year retirement anniversary. Thanks for all of the cards, emails and sorta email birthday card (you know who you are-it was cute).

Chris, Ed and roses at Port Defiance Park, Tacoma

Chris, Ed and roses at Port Defiance Park, Tacoma

Today was a little slower. After no cell or Internet, we played catchup on the blog postings for Mt. Ranier and Mt. St. Helens and took care of some household type tasks.

Joseph's coat roses

Joseph’s coat roses

We drove up from Kelso WA to Tacoma, WA. Interstate 5 is quite the busy road, a real switch from the two lane country/mountain roads we have been on. Mt. Rainier looms off to the side, a hulking presence (when cloud cover is non-existent), Mt. Baker up ahead of us.

imageimage

We are staying in Tacoma. Friends from Carlisle PA, Pat and Harold Sweeney, are living here in a retirement community. We are lodging for three nights in the guest unit the community maintains.

After lunch with Pat and Harold, we visited Point Defiance Park. This is an excellent park, we toured the Gardens and the Five Mile Drive.

Puget Sound

Puget Sound

Pat, Chris, Harold, Ed

Pat, Chris, Harold, Ed

Birthday supper was at a local Italian restaurant. I had dessert instead of booze. Some things never change.

Ed and Chris July 15 10 pm

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 14

Kelso, WA July 14, Sunday

The long distance shot of Mt Ranier

The long distance shot of Mt Ranier

We left Paradise early. The road to Mt. St. Helens is all back roads, except for 10 minutes on an interstate, and, as usual, I added some extra time. Due to cloudy weather on Saturday, we did not have a good, long distance photo of Mt. Ranier.

Sunday was a clear, warm day so on one of back roads on our way to Mt. St. Helens was a great shot of Mt. Ranier. We realized how great it was as we zipped past it, and assuming there would be another opportunity, kept going. No other opportunity presented itself. Trees along the road and then high ridges consistently blocked the view. Eventually we turned around and went back to the one location and took photos.

First shot of Mt. St. Helens, mudflow path still visible in front

First shot of Mt. St. Helens, mudflow path still visible in front

The major visitor center to Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument is on Johnston Ridge in Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The U.S. Forest Service runs it. The observatory and ridge are named after a geologist working at the location the day it blew as the on-site scientist who died in the blast.

Showing crater area and impact area of blast

Showing crater area and impact area of blast


Debris flowed over the ridge to lower right into canyon to left

Debris flowed over Johnston ridge to lower right into canyon to left


Over 100 miles of road and over 20 bridges were destroyed in the eruption. When they rebuilt the area, they made sure the drive to the visitor center presented several good photo ops. We took a few and then spent several hours at the main center. (The county and Weyerhauser each have visitor centers also.)

The film here is excellent and drew the largest crowds I have ever seen at national park/forest visitor centers. As the film ends, the curtains open and you have a direct view of the mountain and the crater the eruption created on May 18, 1980.

We also listened to two ranger talks and hiked up to another observation point. Along the path, two volunteers also were available to answer questions.

impact area

impact area

The talks and film explained the difference between this eruption and the volcanoes in Hawaii. Very simply put, the amount of gas in the magma determines if the magma flows smoothly (Hawaii) or explodes (Mt. St. Helens). For two months before the eruption, the mountain was giving increasing signs of eruption and everyone was expecting it would blow its top.

Eruption area

Eruption area


What it actually did was to explode laterally out the side of the mountain, sending gases,debris, shock waves, etc out the north side of the mountain. The resulting landslide, mudflow, shock waves, and ash destroyed an area the size of Chicago ,most of the damage done in the first three minutes. 57 people ended up dying. In just a few minutes, Mt. St. Helens went from the 7th tallest mountain in Washington state to the 87th.
http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mountsthelens/home/?cid=stelprdb5199437

You can follow the above link to the national volcanic monument site if you wish. Overall we found the display both compelling and informative. One other tidbit: Mt. Ranier is now labeled as the next most likely mountain to erupt. If that one goes, with its massive size and the huge amount of water contained in its glaciers, the damage will be cataclysmic. You did not know we were such adventurous folk, traveling to dangerous volcanic areas. Scientists believe they have better predictive capabilities now, partially due to Mt. St. Helens.

Wildflowers

Wildflowers


Wild flowers

Wild flowers


Wildflowers in MSH national volcanic monument area

Wildflowers in MSH national volcanic monument area


Johnston Ridge is at a little over 3000 feet in elevation. The lower height produced a more glorious explosion of wildflowers than was present at Mount Ranier. We discussed this with an elderly gentleman from British Columbia who said by the time we return to the Canadian Rockies, those wildflowers should be at their peak. We hope so.

The National Forest Service is doing nothing to re-forest the national volcanic monument area so scientists can learn about natural regrowth. Weyerhauser must own a lot of land in the area. They have signs showing areas they planted and the trees are doing amazingly well.

Trees knocked down by blast

Trees knocked down by blast


Weyerhauser regrowth area

Weyerhauser regrowth area


We finished the day at our lodging in Kelso, WA, a small town along Interstate 5. Monday we head to Tacoma to visit friends from Carlisle.

Ed and Chris July 15 9 am

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 12 and 13

Paradise, July 12 and 13

As I mentioned in the previous blog, we were without cell phone and Internet service for July 12 and 13th. We stayed at the Paradise Inn at Mount Rainier in Washington state. This post will cover both Friday and Saturday, the 12th and 13th.

We left Yakima, Washington, Friday morning. The initial part of our drive was through the fruit bearing orchards west of Yakima. It seems each part of Washington says it grows some large percentage of a fruit; apples, raspberries, rhubarb, mint, cherries, etc.

First view of Ranier from White Pass

First view of Ranier from White Pass

We entered the mountains through the White Pass Scenic Highway, U.S. Highway 12. It made us think of Minnesota and Wisconsin where U.S. 12 is a major road. This road goes through heavily forested, mountain terrain.

The day had begun hot and sunny in Yakima. As we progressed through the mountains, it became cooler and cloudy. Our first stop was at the Clear Creek Falls overlook. Clear Creek Falls was a pleasant diversion. We would be seeing many more falls as the two days in Mt. Ranier progressed.

Fog at Mt. Ranier visitor center on Friday

Fog at Mt. Ranier visitor center on Friday

As we got closer to Ranier, the cloud cover was pretty thick. Ranier averages over 120 inches of rain each year AND over 600 inches of snow! That’s over 50 feet of snow for the mathematically challenged. The record snowfall is 93 feet back in the ’70s. So, a bit of cloudiness should be expected. The question was whether we would see any sun. We had difficulty Saturday afternoon even knowing which partially visible peak was Ranier.

On Ranger talk on geology and global warming

On Ranger talk on geology and global warming

Trails partially covered by snow

Trails partially covered by snow


The park has road construction projects underway. At one of them, the delay was half an hour. We chatted with a man from Hawaii whose home on the Big Island had been destroyed by the lava flows from the volcano there. While waiting, he showed us some of the pictures.

We explored the visitor’s center and took two park ranger led walks Saturday afternoon. The first focused on the wild flowers in the park. Peak wildflower season is late July to early August. The Paradise area of the park is at 5200 feet and is considered a sub-alpine growing area. The flowers are starting to bloom but were not yet at peak. We found the greatest concentration and diversity along roadways where the snow melts earlier and there is more direct sunlight. Along some of the trails you could observe avalanche lilies poking out through the snow.

There is still snow on many of the trails, usually in patches at lower elevations but completely snow covered at higher ones. Some of the serious hikers had skis and hiked up and skied down.
Other hikers make a two day hike to the top of Mount Ranier, going from the 5200 foot elevation at Paradise to the top at 14,200 feet.

Our second ranger led talk focused on the mountain’s geology and glaciers. The snow limited the area the group could walk to. The fully snow covered areas were not a good hike but other trails only had snow on 10-25 foot sections and we hiked those. A number of people dropped out as they were not prepared to walk on snow.

Avalanche lilies peaking thru snow

Avalanche lilies peaking thru snow


Wildflowers

Wildflowers

Mount Rainier has 26 glaciers on it, the largest number for any one single mountain in the lower 48 states of the U.S. One member of the group did get into a “discussion” of whether global warming was really valid since no real science backs it up. “Global warming was invented by liberals when communism was overthrown.”

After the hikes, we checked into Paradise Inn. Paradise Inn was constructed similar to the other great park lodges of the West. Massive wood beams, handcrafted woodwork, large stone fireplaces, very small lodging rooms, no TV and Internet. It is only open mid May to early October.

Paradise Inn lobby

Paradise Inn lobby

The lobby has a great room with fireplaces at each end. Due to the lack of electronic entertainment, the lobby is occupied each evening with people reading, playing cards and board games, and just socializing. A piano player plays calm music from 5 to 9 each night–7 days a week and he does not take a break during his four hour stint.

Friday sunset as skies start to clearr

Friday sunset as skies start to clear

As dusk started to settle in around 9:30, we attended our final ranger session on astronomy. The skies had cleared enough that the sky was visible and Ranier was starting to not be blocked by clouds. The ranger had a telescope out and we saw the rings of Saturn and the moon close up. I did not remember Lou’s magnification but the sizes seemed similar. This one had an autofocusing feature that allowed him to enter the solar feature he wanted to observe and the telescope automatically found it.

July 13

Sunday morning walk by Ranier

Saturday morning walk by Ranier

Saturday morning we were up early and walked to Myrtle Falls, close by the Inn. The flowers were starting to open up and the skies were clear. We drove to Narada Falls and took some pictures there before we headed out to Christine Falls.

Narada Falls

Narada Falls


Christine Falls

Christine Falls

As is usual, one can meet a number of people simply by asking if they want you to take their picture (so the photographer can be in the shot) or smiling and asking where people are from.
I think Chris has taken photos on 80% of all camera models made.

At Narada Falls we met a guy from the DC area who was riding his BMW motorcycle around the west. He too had observed the phenomenon of wild flowers blooming close to the road and was thinking or writing a book titled “20 feet from the Edge”.

Field of flowers on Sunday

Field of flowers on Sunday


Wild flowers

Wild flowers


We took a break back at the lodge area and the increase in people from Friday to Saturday was dramatic. Luckily people who stay at the Inn get preferential treatment or we would have had to walk blocks from the overflow parking that flows down the road exiting the lodge and visitor center.

We walked some more in the afternoon and Saturday evening Chris even played cards. She beat Ed at rummy.

View of Paradise Inn

View of Paradise Inn

Close up of some glaciers with hikers paths on them

Close up of some glaciers with hikers paths on them

Ed and Chris July 15 8 am

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 11

Spokane, WA July 11

We spent most of Thursday at and around the Grand Coulee dam in Washington state. The Grand Coulee dam is larger and produces more electricity than Hoover dam. Construction started in 1933 and took eight years to complete. The original main purpose of the dam was to provide irrigation for farming.

Initial view of Lake Roosevelt behind Grand Coulee Dam.

Initial view of Lake Roosevelt behind Grand Coulee Dam.


We left Spokane (without really exploring the city) and on our drive to the dam the agricultural fields were green and prosperous. We noticed this and commented positively on it. It wasn’t until we had the tour that we understood the impact of the dam; that the irrigation creates very fertile fields in what is otherwise a semi-arid, high desert area.

Grand Coulee Dam

Grand Coulee Dam

This dam on the Columbia River was designed to maximize the amount of water that could be stored without backing water up into Canada. This backup water results in the creation of Lake Roosevelt, a major recreation area. It is 151 miles long. The Columbia River actually has its headwaters in British Columbia, close to where we will be staying in a month or so.

Power generating turbines

Power generating turbines

From Lake Roosevelt, the Bureau of reclamation pumps water into another lake for irrigation purposes. Banks Lake, as it is called, is another 26 miles long. This is the water that is sent into irrigation canals all over north east Washington state.

Looking down at the water going over the spillway

Looking down at the water going over the spillway

While the lake created by the dam is named for Franklin Roosevelt, the dam itself is named after a geological feature.
A coulee is a ravine. In this case, the Coulee was created by the multiple breakthroughs of ice from glaciers in Lake Missoula, Montana during the ice age period. The huge flows of water scoured out the Coulee, or ravine. In this case the ravine is quite large.

As always, numerous people were moved out of the 151 mile long area the new lake would create. American Indian tribes were also severely impacted. The tribes do receive some remuneration based on irrigation and power generated but no details as to its sufficiency were made known to us.

View of Banks Lake and coulee around edge

View of Banks Lake and coulee around edge

We were able to take a tour of the dam. 38 people are able to take a tour which is offered every hour on a first come, first served basis. The power produced here is some of the cheapest in the US and goes to areas in eleven western states.

We were able to see water rushing over the top of the spillway. Evidently, this is not common. Due to power generation, pumping for irrigation, snow melt and rainfall, most water is run through the power intake pipes or pumped into Banks Lake.

I am sure a detailed report on the building of the dam would bore you but suffice it to say that it was a massive project that had power struggles for decades before being built. It is an impressive sight.

Dry Falls

Dry Falls

After the tour and time spent at the visitor center, we headed for Yakima, WA. On the way there, we also visited the Dry Falls state park. This is another major geological feature. At one time, a gazillion years ago, the falls here were larger than Niagara Falls. The cliffs which were carved by the Ice Age, are 400 feet high and over three miles wide. AND, the concession stand was still open and selling ice cream.

The final stretch of the drive brought us to the Cascade Mountains. The road, now mainly interstates, would rise and fall over 1,000 feet numerous times as we drove up and down the range foothills.

The next two days are in Mt. Ranier and we have been advised cell and internet coverage are normally unavailable.

Ed and Chris July 12 7 AM

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 10

Wednesday, July 10 Traveling

Well, it was a long day. 14.5 hours to travel 425 miles from Calgary to Spokane. A number of factors come into play.

First, getting out of Calgary. As mentioned earlier, while there are limited access highways in Calgary, the direction we were going only had them for part of the way. City streets with traffic signals were a good portion of the road traveled.

Alberta lands with Rockies in background

Alberta lands with Rockies in background

Second, some might be cynical and ask if we chose the most direct, quickest route. The answer would be: Of course not. We chose a route that looked direct, scenic, easy to remember, explored new territory, and went by areas we wished to see. The route did all that.

Third, cynicism might continue when we state that we added time to our travel day since we chose a route with a bridge washed out from the mid June floods and which was not yet replaced. Could we not have checked that out before we left?? Probably. We didn’t. So we got to see additional, new territory as we had to detour around the washout.

Lunch in Longview AB

Lunch in Longview AB

Fourth, we were traveling two lane roads with 100 km/hr speed (62 mph) limits, frequently behind trucks and RVs and which roads travel through small towns where the speed is reduced to 50 km/h. There were no 4 lane, limited access highways as an option.

Fifth, we stopped to eat and see.

We left our Evergreen hosts at 9 AM. We drove south to pick up Alberta Highway 3 which crosses the Rockies at Crowsnest Pass, one of the only three passes over the Rockies in Canada. Our drive took us through the foothills of the Rockies, plains to the east, rolling hills where we were and the Rockies to the west. The road was called the Cowboy Trail and is prime ranching territory.

Bar U ranch in Alberta

Bar U ranch in Alberta

We made our first stop in the town of Longview where we had an excellent lunch at the New York Style Bistro. Longview is a small, ranching town. The restaurant had a log cabin type construction.

Alberta ranching land

Alberta ranching land

Our second stop was at the Bar U ranch national historical site. This ranch was started in the 1800s and was one of the largest in Canada for cattle ranching. In the early 1900s, it was also famous for its breeding of the Percheron horses. Its owner was one of the Big Four-financial backers of the initial Calgary Stampede.

Our third stop was at the Frank Slide interpretive center. The town of Frank located in the Crowsnest pass area had a landslide in 1903 which killed 90 people. While coal mining was occurring here, it is believed the landslide was due to natural forces. In the same geographic area, a coal mining accident killed 189 workers about a decade later.

Frank slide at Turtle Mtn in Crowsnest area

Frank slide at Turtle Mtn in Crowsnest area

From Crowsnest almost to Spokane, we were driving on two lane roads in a valley. Usually a river or creek was close to the road. Railroad tracks were frequently in sight. Mountains were on either side although as we drove further the mountains became shorter and more gently sloped. The area was usually forested. A pleasant scene.

Our final stop was for dinner at a restaurant in Sandpoint Idaho. The restaurant is on the shores of Lake Pond Oreille, the fifth deepest in the U.S. at about 1,150 feet. We treated ourselves to a real meal and shared Steak Oscar and bread pudding.

Lake Pond Oreille Idaho

Lake Pond Oreille Idaho

We finally arrived at the Fairfield Inn in Spokane at 10:30 pm, pacific time.

Ed and Chris July 11 10:30 AM

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2013, Trip Six, The Northwest, July 9

Calgary, July 9, Tuesday

YaaHOOO. It was Calgary Stampede day. If you did not have a cowboy hat on today, you were not into it. Luckily our Evergreen hosts had extras and two of them fit us. So we were people in the know.

Ed at the Stampede grounds

Ed at the Stampede grounds

We rode the light rail down with our Evergreen hosts and two friends of theirs. The stampede grounds are just south east of downtown Calgary. We spent the day there.

The highlight of the day was a three hour rodeo. This included bronco riding, barrel riding, bareback horse riding, calf roping, bull riding, etc. In the calf roping, I think the score was about equal between the calves and the cowboys. A cowboy from Minnesota won the bronco riding. We had seats in the shade which was great since the day was sunny, temps in the 70s with a light breeze.

barrel riding

barrel riding


bronco riding at Stampede

bronco riding at Stampede

We avoided most of the fair type food, thinking we will experience enough of that at the end of August at the Minnesota state fair. We spent plenty of time wandering the grounds exploring the animal barns, vendors, and the First Nations display.

During stampede time, the people of Calgary sponsor numerous free meals. There are several free pancake breakfasts every day. These are scattered around the metropolitan area. Tomorrow our hosts are going to a barbecue lunch. This one does have a two dollar charge, but all of the proceeds are being donated to flood relief.

Grandstand  2.5 weeks ago

Grandstand 2.5 weeks ago


Grandstand today

Grandstand today


You may not have read but the stampede grounds were underwater during the flood. In fact, the Saddledome, where the Calgary Flames play hockey, had water up to the 10th row inside the dome. The dome was not available for stampede events this year.
The rest of the grounds were in very good shape.

The stampede organizers had proclaimed that “Come hell or high water, the stampede will go on”. T-shirts quoting this have been sold out. New shipments come in daily and are sold out immediately. They have raised over $1 million just from T-shirt sales so far.

We wrapped up our last evening in Calgary with a final conversation with our hosts. Wednesday we drive to Spokane. Depending on time, we have two or three potential side visits to make along the way.

Ed and Chris July 9 11:45 pm

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2013, Trip Six, The Northwest, July 7 and 8

Calgary, July 7 and 8

July 7, Sunday, was our travel day. We left Canmore after Church and took the Bow Valley Trail to Calgary. This road had been closed until a few days ago. It follows the Bow River and we saw numerous locations where the road had been repaired. It is considered an alternate, scenic route to Calgary.

We made one stop along the way in Cochrane for a bite to eat. Lunch was in a small establishment where we could have had home-made pies for desert. We opted instead to have desert three doors down for the locally made ice cream.

Calgary Olympic Park from park across the Bow River

Calgary Olympic Park from park across the Bow River

Our first stop in Calgary was at Olympic Park. Calgary was the host of the 1988 Winter Olympics and at the ski area they now have the Canada Sports Hall of Fame. The ski jump area has been converted into a playground with luge runs, sports camps, etc. We spent two hours going through the Hall of Fame. Curling and hockey were my favorites.

Our second stop was at a park along he Bow River where we went walking. Pleasant, even with the numerous dogs out and about.

After dinner, we met our Evergreen hosts for the next three nights. They have just retired but have managed a number of trips, many in the U.S. so we compared notes.

Monday July 8

Luckily we had planned to make Monday a downtown Calgary, museum day. The day was cool and rainy; we had a light drizzle on our walk to the LRT stop by our host’s home but it poured around lunch time.

Glenbow museum minerals-this is  ammolite local to Alberta

Glenbow museum minerals-this is ammolite local to Alberta


Glenbow museum-barbed wire horse

Glenbow museum-barbed wire horse


Our first stop was the Glenbow Museum. As it turned out, we spent almost all day there. The museum was founded, funded, and initially stocked by Eric Harvie, a rancher who owned the land where Alberta’s big oil strike occurred. He ended up supporting numerous charitable organizations-without having his name attached to them.

The museum is spread across three floors with extensive displays. There was art: from contemporary times, from Asia, from Africa, and from Calgary in the 1970s. There was a special exhibit about M.C. Escher and his fascination with mathematics in his art.

One exhibit focused on “Mavericks” from Alberta; in politics, art, business, sports, etc. It was a fascinating, informative exhibit. Another section was devoted to the First Nations-the term used to encompass Native Americans.

Glenbow museum, Buddhist shrine

Glenbow museum, Buddhist shrine

One collection focused on Treasures from the Mineral World, we thought of Lucian often here. The art of the Northwest was in another gallery but after the Whyte museum in Banff, there was not much new on display. The final exhibit discussed the role of warriors and warrior classes throughout the ages. This is the largest museum in western Canada and worth the time we spent here.

Downtown Calgary has skyways, The skyways are called Plus 15s. Evidently when first constructed, they had to be fifteen feet about street level. Even though Canada has adopted the metric system, the term has stuck. We did some exploration of the downtown, mainly on the skyways but some at street level.

There was en interesting spot in one skyway near the cultural venues where 6 seats were in a corner of the hallway so you could view a TV type monitor where short vignettes by local artists played in rotation. In another section, they had an indoor garden which reminded me of the one in Town Center in St. Paul-which was removed a number of years ago.

Devonian Gardens in downtown Calgary

Devonian Gardens in downtown Calgary

Since this is Stampede time, many people are wearing cowboy hats. It seems most offices have designated this week as jeans week as they were everywhere. At one downtown park, several Stampede activities are scheduled every morning. Due to the weather today, they were canceled so we missed that.

We did run in to two local people that we spent some time talking to. One woman stopped us by the park where the activities had been canceled to encourage us to come back on Wednesday. We spent 20 minutes talking about Calgary and life in general with her. A man on the LRT on the way home had a Hawaii ranch shirt on so we discussed Hawaii and Calgary with him.

We returned to our Evergreen hosts and finished the evening with some further conversation. All of us will be taking the LRT to the Calgary Stampede grounds tomorrow. It will be interesting to see how the grounds look. They were under water two weeks ago.

Ed and Chris July 8 10:45 pm

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 6

Canmore, July 6

Our last full day in the Canadian Rockies for a while. We went back to Banff and spent several hours in the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. The day started out cool and drizzly so the museum seemed a good idea. It was time well spent.

We did three half hour docent tours. One focused on the homes and lives of Catherine and Peter Whyte and of Philip and Pearl Moore. Both families came from money on at least one side and chose to spend most of their lives and energies in Banff, at the time, a very small town. The Whytes were also painters and some of their work is exhibited here.

Interior of Morse home showing Princeton memorabilia

Interior of Moore home showing Princeton memorabilia


Interior of Whyte home showing artist work space

Interior of Whyte home showing artist work space

Both homes were relatively small but very comfortable looking. They reflected the mountain style and the interiors fit together well.

The second tour was a history of how the Canadian Rockies were opened for development; through surveyors, the passage of the CP Rail trains, skiing, etc. Individuals with courage and foresight were able to make major impacts.

The third tour discussed the art of the Rockies. CP Rail sponsored artists to paint scenes they deemed suitable for use to market the area for tourism and development. The Railway was nearly bankrupt after completion of the Canadian intercontinental line in 1885 (U.S. line completed in 1869-see Trip Four)and needed revenue. The completion of the line was essential to keeping British Columbia in the Canadian Federation and its promised completion date was overdue by several years.

One of the CP Rail sponsored paintings

One of the CP Rail sponsored paintings

Similar to U.S. efforts, tourism along the rail lines was one method to gain dollars. Artists got a free pass on the railroad to paint, and later photograph, scenes that showed the majesty and none of the problems of the area.

After the museum we went to the local, downtown market and picked up food for a picnic lunch in the park along the river. We observed a wedding and a physical education class in the park. A walk along the Bow River worked off most of the calories consumed. The weather alternated between sunny hot and cool drizzly. We managed to avoid any major raindrops.

We went in to the Banff Park Museum, a national historic site. It was devoted primarily to the animals of the region, usually shown in dioramas. It did not take long to complete our tour.

Mount Rundle and Vermillion Lake

Mount Rundle and Vermillion Lake

After some further walking in downtown we went to Vermillion Lakes, a highly touted scenic area. We took a few shots of Mt. Rundle but found the area less than spectacular.

So we leave Banff having seen most of the highlighted areas. Those we missed we will catch later (the balance of the Icefields Parkway), they were hikes in active grizzly bear areas, or they were still closed due to the flooding. The area is generally back to normal but almost all of the hotels had Vacancy signs showing; evidently many people cancelled their reservations after the flood.

We have completed one week at our first airbnb lodging. It has worked out well for us. We have a lower level unit to ourselves with kitchen and sitting area. It has plenty of windows looking out at the back yard and forest. We have three more airbnb lodgings on this trip; Vancouver, Whistler, Victoria in British Columbia and East Wenatchee, WA.

Tomorrow we pack up and drive to Calgary.

Ed and Chris, July 6 9:30 pm

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2013 Trip Six, The Northwest, July 5

Canmore, July 5

Cascade Mountain overlooking Banff

Cascade Mountain overlooking Banff

We drove past Banff and we slipped over the border into British Columbia to hike in Kootenay National Park. Kootenay is long and narrow with only one road traversing the park. There are only 3 passes over the Canadian Rockies and by the end of the trip, we will have taken all three. This one was easy, only two lanes but wide road and relatively easy gradient.

We went on three hikes in the park. This was after rejecting one early in the morning which had fresh bear skat within the first three minutes of the trail.

Marble Canyon

Marble Canyon


Marble Canyon

Marble Canyon


Our first hike was Marble Canyon. In actuality, it is really a gorge, not a canyon. Tokumm creek flows through the area on its way to the Vermilion River. While the hike is steep, there are bridges and railings to assist you. All three hikes today are taking place in areas which have had forest fires within the last 5 to 20 years.

Marble Canyon

Marble Canyon

Wildflowers are continuing to bloom and be more profuse than before. The river and creek water continues to be seafoam green. Supposedly, when we return in August they will be blue.

Vermillion River at Numa Creek trailhead

Vermillion River at Numa Creek trailhead


Vermillion river at Numa Creek trailhead

Vermillion river at Numa Creek trailhead


We made a quick stop at the Numa Creek trailhead. For us, we used it as a wayside rest actually along the Vermilion River. There is a nice little falls here and this area had not burnt so you were able to compare burnt forest with a mature forest.

Vermillion River

Vermillion River

The day was warmer than expected and the rain held off until the evening. If you look closely though, you will see two small rainbows in two of the water pictures.

We only drove about one half of Kootenay Park today. We will finish it on our return journey. At the turnaround point, we saw a brochure for a Ranger walk. It was back at a trailhead we had stopped at but chosen not to hike.

Ranger walk showing two burnt and new growth

Ranger walk showing two burnt and new growth

Walk through burnt area with ranger

Walk through burnt area with ranger

We drove back to the trailhead and met the Ranger for an hour and a half hike. She talked primarily about the burned area and the regrowth process. She was working here at the time of the last forest fire and had pictures showing the regrowth during the next 1 to 3 years. We were the only two people on the hike so it was a private tour.

One of the items she explained was that trees that were dead at the time of the fire now have black, burnt trunks. Trees that were living at the time of the fire have grayish trunks-with no branches and no leaves of course.

Chris and Ranger Sharon

Chris and Ranger Sharon

Our third hike was at Stanley glacier. We did not hike all the way to the glacier. We just did the early, steep climbing portion of the hike. This hike also had areas of wildflowers, along with small trees across the trail that had to be climbed over or under.

Wildflowers along Stanley Glacier trail

Wildflowers along Stanley Glacier trail


Best shot we could get of Stanley Glacier

Best shot we could get of Stanley Glacier


Stanley Glacier trail

Stanley Glacier trail


Our next stop was at Norquay mountain. This is a ski area above Banff. Like other ski areas, they imported a number of Swiss skiers to provide lessons and run ski schools back in the 1930s to help get the industry off the ground. There was an overlook that provided a view of Banff from high above. In addition, we observed our first mountain goats.

We wrapped up the day with dinner and downtown Banff. Our legs and knees are saying “No more steep hikes, No more steep hikes.” So Saturday we will stay on flat land in Banff.

Banff from Norquay Mountain

Banff from Norquay Mountain


Our first mountain  goat

Our first mountain
goat

Oh, and Canmore lifted the boil water advisory at the end of the day Friday. Hurray!

Ed and Chris Saturday July 6 8:45 am

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