road trip

2014 Trip Six, Sept. 16, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Quebec City, Tuesday, September 16

Our day long walking tour of Old Quebec, located within the walls of the city, was bookended by military history and stories of valor and defeat. In between were stops for architecture, religion and food.

Walking Old Quebec

Walking Old Quebec

It turned out to be a glorious day, sunny and pleasant. Fine day to work hard walking around Old Quebec. Breakfast was at a small restaurant a few blocks from the Hilton, we were the first ones there, it does not open until 8 AM. I tried the hot chocolate instead of milk. This does not seem like a milk city. The meals were tasty and hearty, a good start for the day.

Kent Gate, one of three gates into Old Quebec

Kent Gate, one of three gates into Old Quebec

We entered Old Quebec through the Kent Gate and walked down streets reminiscent of France in the 1700s. Shops and restaurants alternated with churches, hotels and offices. Our first major stop was the Musee du Fort (I apologize for my inability to know how to insert the accents for French words.) This museum has a 30 minute panorama of the six sieges of Quebec highlighted by a light and sound show.

A side note on Quebec history, Readers Digest condensed version that I am sure will offend Quebec natives. Quebec was founded in 1603 by Samuel du Champlain of France. It remained a French city until 1759 when the British defeated the French in the battle of Quebec, although there were numerous battles and skirmishes between the two prior to 1759. The Brits were here until 1867 when the Articles of Confederation created a separate Canadian country although still a part of the British Commonwealth. You can see the mountains of Maine some 100 Kilometers away. The Americans invaded Canada in 1775 and during the war of 1812; small rebel groups invaded Canada in 1837, 1838 and during 1868-71. Thus, while Americans may be ignorant of these battles, they are near to Canadian memories.

St.Lawrence River

St.Lawrence River

Quebec’s position defending the St. Lawrence River and its nearness to the U.S. made it a prominent defensive position. The hills of Quebec, combined with fortifications, made it a strong guardian. Early fortifications were less elaborate than those completed by the British after the War of 1812. The Musee du Fort and the Citadel, which we visited later in the day, are central reminders of Canada’s efforts to form its own country.

Chateau Frontenac

Chateau Frontenac

After the Musee du Fort we wandered around Old Quebec, passing City Hall which is undergoing major renovations. We walked by the Samuel de Champlain monument on Dufferin Terrace which overlooks the St. Lawrence River. We saw the UNESCO World Heritage monument and Chateau Frontenac, a massive hotel built in 1893. Two Allied Conferences during WWII were held here. After all of this walking, it was time for fruit crepes and a rest.

Notre Dame du Sacre Coeur

Notre Dame du Sacre Coeur

The Anglican Cathedral Holy Trinity was the first Anglican cathedral outside of Britain. Our tour guide here informed us that King George III donated ornate eucharistic chalices and candlesticks to this Cathedral which we were able to view-but not touch. To be ecumenical, we stopped in to see Notre Dame du Sacre Couer, a Catholic church.

The Monastery of the Ursulines is around the corner, an order founded here in 1639. The Ursulines are the oldest teaching order in Canada. Numerous streets, parks, and monuments later led us to La Citadel de Quebec and the Musee Royal 22e Regiment. Our time and tour here occupied us for the next two hours.

The Citadel

The Citadel

The Citadel is a 37 acre active military base, occupying the grounds of the fortifications than have defended Quebec for over 300 years. The fort has the notable star shape seen at many forts of this period, due to the ability to better defend against attackers from all angles. The museum details the history of the fortifications and the role of Quebec in defending Canada.

The Citadel

The Citadel

The Citadel is also the home of the Royal 22e Regiment; the only French-speaking regiment in the Canadian army. Our tour guide, a civilian from Belgium, gave an excellent tour. The regiment is noted for its bravery and courage. The regiment began in WWI when French-Canadians did not enlist very heavily. Since the Canadian army was led by English-speaking officers, the francophone residents of Quebec did not view this as “their” war. However, once a French-speaking battalion was organized, the enlistment rate shot up.

Today, the regiment still speaks only French in its internal workings although they use English for national army activities. The regiment was at one of the Queen’s major ceremonies at which time they took a turn at the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace which was the only time French has been used in that ceremony, and the queen greeted them at a three-hour reception in which she spoke to them in French with a Quebec accent.

At the Citadel is an extremely large cannon (okay I forget the exact nomenclature) which was fired in the late 1800s to break up ice on the St. Lawrence River. The river freezes over and ships normally have to wait for 2-3 months in the hardest part of winter before the ships can traverse back and forth to Montreal from the Atlantic. Before ice-breaker ships, if the river stayed frozen too long, the cannon was used to place a few well-aimed shots to break up the ice.

An Old Quebec city street

An Old Quebec city street

After all that standing and walking, it was time for a break. Tea, cookies and chocolate mousse did the trick in reviving our energies. We each had some Kusmi tea which originated in Russia and now is based in Paris. But, the break meant we missed closing time at Notre-Dame de Quebec Basilica-Cathedral. Another day perhaps although there is still much to see.

Dinner was another small restaurant not far from the hotel. A pleasant evening walk as the sun was setting on a busy day.

Ed and Chris 9/16/14 11:15 pm

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2014, Trip Six, Sept. 15, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Quebec, Monday September 15, 2014

Lake with beaver lodge on King Mountain Trail

Lake with beaver lodge on King Mountain Trail

This is our 300th post of this blog. According to internet sources, our output over the last 20 months would be the equivalent of two novels. Just think, you have been e-reading two novels free of charge! I hope they were worthwhile for you.

Today was a travel day, Ottawa to Quebec. Yes, I know we bypassed Montreal. No, we did not make a mistake, we planned the route this way. Well, actually we made several mistakes traveling today. The first half hour driving to our hiking destination in Gatineau Park (a place we had been at just yesterday) resulted in two wrong turns and a slight delay in reaching our destination. Without wi-fi on our smart phone, we had to navigate by map and sense of direction. No wise cracks please, we did make it successfully.

Our second mistake was in trying to drive into downtown Quebec. Route 440 was to begin right at the Route 40 we were driving from the Montreal area (the west) but we both swear there was no signage whatsoever. We ended up going to the east side of Quebec and coming in from the east. But again, it worked out fine, we just had an opportunity to drive in Quebec rush hour traffic.

This drive was entirely (except for 6 blocks in Ottawa) in Quebec province. It was an interesting comparison. In Ontario, even in the western portion by Thunder Bay, the traffic signs are uniformly in English and French. In Quebec, the traffic signs are entirely in French. My American chip-enabled credit is more accurately described as a chip and signature card. Most of Canada uses a chip and PIN card. My card which worked fine at gas stations pumps in Ontario did not work at the first gas stop in Quebec; I had to go inside to use the card to pay for the gas.

Other notes while I am rambling. A. While our recollection from the Thunder Bay area is weak, we have noted that there are few pick up trucks or large SUVs in Ottawa city and Quebec province. B. In driving through small towns in Canada, we rarely saw a post office. In the U.S., every small town has one prominently located. (That’s why our postal service is running in the red and theirs is in the black.) C. Canada still has pay phones in visible, public locations. My guess is that there must be a governmental mandate to do so.

Our King Mountain hike

Our King Mountain hike

But back to our day. We drove to Gatineau Park, planning to hike around Pink Lake. The trail was closed, even though it was open yesterday. Instead we went on the one hour hike of King Mountain trail which leads up to the first geodetic survey station site in Canada. The views from King Mountain are similar to those from Champlain Outlook which we were at Sunday.

first geodetic survey site national historic site

first geodetic survey site national historic site

The drive to Quebec is listed at about 4.5 hours-not counting navigational mistakes. We stopped at Montebello, a small town with a store selling chocolates made on the site. Very smooth chocolate.

View of Quebec from our hotel, walled city at bottom

View of Quebec from our hotel, walled city at bottom

Our Hilton hotel in Quebec is right across the street from one of the main entrances to Old Quebec, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We are here for six nights so you will read more about this as the days progress.

Ed and Chris 9/15 10:30 pm

P.S. If you are planning to drive your car in Canada, remember to get a copy of the Non-Resident Inter Province Motor Vehicle Liability insurance card.

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2014, Trip Six, Sept. 14, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Ottawa, Ontario Sunday Sept. 14, 2014

The poor weather forecaster. Never praised, always criticized. Today was supposed to become mainly sunny and warmer starting at 10 A.M. Did not happen until 3 pm. A five hour difference is a big deal when you are trying to figure out your plans for the day.

Sunday is a day to take life a little easier so we were not out touring until after 10 AM. The Canada Museum of History is a large complex across the Ottawa River in Gatineau Quebec but it turns out over one half of what we viewed from the outside was administrative offices. Then the Hall of Canada was closed for renovations; a new hall will not open until 2017. Despite that, we spent three hours touring various exhibits.

Parliament Hill viewed from Gatineau, Quebec

Parliament Hill viewed from Gatineau, Quebec

Our original thoughts were to walk over and back and then drive to Gatineau Park. We chose to drive to the museum. Given that today was colder than Saturday, we were pleased with our choice. The museum is directly across the Ottawa River from Parliament Hill; a sunny day would have made for dramatic photos.

Empress of Ireland China; first class at top, third class at bottom

Empress of Ireland China; first class at top, third class at bottom

The Empress of Ireland was the first exhibit we visited. Due to the influence of Hollywood, most of us are familiar with the 1912 sinking of the Titanic and its loss of 1512 lives. Lesser known is the Empress of Ireland sinking. The Empress was a ship of the Canadian Pacific Railway sailing between Quebec and Liverpool England. On May 29, 1914, she collided with a Norwegian coal carrying ship, the Storstad and sank in 15 minutes while still in the St. Lawrence Seaway. 1012 people died in this tragedy.

The display covered the details of the sinking, stories of survivors and victims, and artifacts from the wreckage. The ship still lies on the bottom of the river. Similar to the Titanic, first,second and third class ticket holders had much different experiences on board. The sinking was big news around the world; the emergence of World War I which started just mere weeks later pushed it into the background.

one family's home made transport device to take kids to school, including snow shoes for the horse

one family’s home made transport device to take kids to school, including snow shoes for the horse

The second exhibit highlighted snow. What might seem like a simple concept gets detailed treatment. As the literature states, snow is such a major factor in the lives of all Canadians that it impacts on culture, art, clothing, recreation, employment, etc.

Entrance to First Peoples exhibit

Entrance to First Peoples exhibit

The museum has closed its entire third floor to create a massive history of Canada exhibit which will not open for another three years. Instead we visited the large First Peoples display on the first floor. This was one of the most comprehensive displays I have encountered of this topic during our Canadian journeys. But, I will admit, I do not find it interesting enough to spend much time here. I have heard the creation stories many times. The loss of lands is not dissimilar to that of Native Americans. I have seen the crafts previously. I will forget details here as I have of other locations. Maybe our journeys are becoming too similar.

Pink Lake in Gatineau Park

Pink Lake in Gatineau Park

We traveled to Gatineau Park, an area combining park features and wilderness lands across the river in Gatineau, Quebec. Gatineau Park is a odd creation, sort of a national park but under separate control of a local government commission. It is large with the southern half being the more park-like portion. Today we only drove through parts of it, stopping at a few overlooks. Hopefully tomorrow’s weather will allow us to hike before we head to Quebec.

Eardley Escarpment viewed from Gatineau Park Champlain overlook-Canadian Shield rock formations leading to St. Lawrence lowlands

Eardley Escarpment viewed from Gatineau Park Champlain overlook-Canadian Shield rock formations leading to St. Lawrence lowlands

Ed and Chris 9/14 8:30 pm

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2014 Trip Six, Sept. 13, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Ottawa Ontario Saturday Sept. 13

I had $550,000 in my hands today. But I gave it back. Actually I had no choice as it was a 28 pound gold bar, watched over by a police officer and attached to a really heavy chain. Just one of our activities on a rainy, cool day in Ottawa.

Parliament Hill was our first destination. We arrived early, behind a tour group from Alberta. The guy right in front of us had a name badge indicating he was from Swift Current so we told him about our stay at Grandma Bep’s B & B in June 2013. He said she was still going strong.

Canadian House chambers

Canadian House chambers

Our tour was of the Centre Block of Parliament which is where the chambers for the House, the Senate, and the Library of Parliament are housed. Since Canada is a bilingual country, tours are offered both in English and in French. We had to wait about 25 minutes for the next English tour. Bilingual may help keep the country united but it also imposes a cost for dual signage, tours, and even church services. In any event, our wait was much shorter than the line which was present when we finished our tour and left the Parliament building

Canadian Senate chambers

Canadian Senate chambers

The tour lasted about one hour. Since this was Saturday, neither legislative chamber was in session. We were able to enter the Senate chambers but could only view the House chambers through windows along one wall. The construction we viewed Friday was of a new House chambers being built in a portion of the West Block.

Library of Parliament

Library of Parliament

The Centre Block of Parliament that we viewed today had been extensively destroyed in a fire in 1916. The cause was never determined. As the nation’s capital, the complex and building is quite impressive. The library was the round building pictured in yesterday’s blog. It is the most original building as a librarian closed metal doors between the library and the fire, blocking the passage of the flames.

View from Peace Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral is twin spires at right center

View from Peace Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral is twin spires at right center

Technically, Canada is part of the English Commonwealth and Queen Elisabeth II is the Monarch of Canada and head of state. Her duties are strictly limited in the Canadian Constitution. Our tour also included an observation deck in the Peace Tower 200 feet above the ground. The tour concluded with a visit to the Memorial Chamber.

The Memorial Chamber is dedicated to the memory of Canadians who have died in military service. It was designed after World War I, the war which was thought to never have to be repeated. The central point is an altar of Belgian stone with the names of the dead from World War I. As time has progressed, side tables hold books of remembrance for other wars since World War I. Pages of the Books of Remembrance are turned every morning at 11 o’clock, according to a perpetual calendar. These calendars allow for each page in each book to appear at least once in the course of the year. We were present at 11 AM when a uniformed officer of the military performed the ritual.

The history of Canada is still not a complete picture in our minds. During today’s tour, it was mentioned that only several of the provinces united to form Canada in 1867. Newfoundland, for instance, did not join until 1949. Thus the building does not always have flags or seals from all of the current provinces since it was built a century ago.

After walking in the pouring rain, we came to our second stop. The Bytown Museum, housed in Ottawa’s oldest stone building, does a nice job of describing the history of Ottawa. A major force in the establishment of the town is the Rideau Canal. (You may have heard of this. In winter there are frequent pictures of Ottawans skating down the canal to work.)

Ottawa locks on Rideau Canal with lock  worker in yellow slicker

Ottawa locks on Rideau Canal with lock worker in yellow slicker

The Rideau Canal is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was built in the 1820s, the first canal build for steamships, not horse drawn boats. The impetus for its construction was to create a clear shipping channel around the rapids in the rivers to allow for a secondary passage for Canadian and British forces in case the St. Lawrence River was blocked by the U.S. Our friendly relations now were not always that way-more details in future weeks. The canal was a success although newer technologies negated its need. The canal is about 120 miles long,connecting Ottawa to Kingston. It is now used primarily by pleasure craft. The locks in Ottawa lift boats a total of 80 feet. The locks are still turned by manual labor as they were when it was built. We observed the crew opening the locks in the rain.

Ottawa became the capital of Canada by chance. Ottawa had started due to the Rideau Canal and lumbering. In 1867, there was competition among several cities to be the new nation’s capital. Queen Victoria made the decision, never specifying the exact reason but it was more defensible, farther from the U.S. border, and more midway geographically for the young country. It has grown immensely, governmental functions are still its main reason for existence.

$550,000

$550,000

After lunch, a nice respite from the rain, we went to the Royal Canadian Mint. At the Ottawa location, the Mint makes primarily investment and collectible coins; mass production of circulation coins occurs at the Winnipeg facility-which also makes coins for 75 other countries. It was while waiting for the next English tour that I lifted the gold bar worth $550,000.

The tour, cheaper on weekends when production is not occurring, shows you the design and production areas. We saw rolls of gold metal worth $20,000,000 each (from a distance, behind glass walls), plus rolls of silver worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. The Canadian mint is a leader in new technologies; producing the purest gold coin (99.999% pure), the first locking mechanism for bi-metallic coinage, the first colored circulation coin, and others. They made four large gold coins. (I forget the exact size.) One of these sold for $2.6 million. The owner in Dubai has made a coffee table out of his. It is currently valued at over $6,000,000.

The tour had 15 people on it. There were people from Alberta, Montreal, Minnesota, Trinidad, London England, and Russia. Quite a mix.

The tour finished in time for us to make the short walk for the 5 PM Mass at the Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica. The Cathedral is colorful and ornate, although it appeared less than 100 people were in attendance. The service was bi-lingual. I thought saying many of the prayers and readings in two languages would mean it would take longer than the usual 60 minutes. The service was completed in 45 minutes.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame Cathedral

This mass came a week after we had toured the St. Paul Cathedral. While we have been to church there often, we had never taken the tour. Come to find out, the St.Paul Cathedral is the 4th largest in North America and listed by Fox News in 2013 as one of the 12 most beautiful churches in the U.S! The Notre Dame Cathedral struck me as much brighter and colorful; St. Paul seems dark in comparison.

St. Paul Cathedral

St. Paul Cathedral

The St. Paul Cathedral has a series of six shrines constructed and funded by various European immigrant communities that settled in St. Paul. (Italian, Irish, German, Slavic, French Canadian, and St. Therese patron of all missions.) While the first Mass was held in the Cathedral in 1915, it took until 1941 before it was essentially complete.

One story from the St. Paul tour. There are two organ consoles. One (the original) is in the sanctuary and one (from the early 1960s) is in the choir loft. In the early ’60s, the long time organist announced his retirement. He proposed that his assistant, a woman, succeed him. This was approved but since at this time, a few years before Vatican II, women were not allowed in the sanctuary during Mass they had to construct a second organ console up in the choir loft.

Ed and Chris 9/13 11:15 pm

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2014 Trip Six, Sept.12, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Ottawa, Ontario Friday Sept. 12 2014

Are we in Canada?? We drove over the Mississippi River today. On our drive from North Bay to Ottawa we did a double take when the sign said Mississippi River as we went on a bridge over a river. Maybe we did not read it correctly we thought. But, no, our eyes were good. There is a short Mississippi River in Ontario that feeds into the Ottawa River.

Ottawa River between Matawa and Pembroke

Ottawa River between Matawa and Pembroke

The Ottawa River is the biggie around here, with its water quantity equalling all of the water in Western Europe. It flows for about 780 miles and forms part of the border between Ontario and Quebec. It has 50 dams and 13 reservoirs on it. The U.S. Mississippi River comes from Native American term for Great River. The origin of the name for the Canadian Mississippi River is uncertain, but the river does exist.

Ottawa River in Ottawa

Ottawa River in Ottawa

We drove along the Ottawa River for about 300 of its 780 miles. In the upper portion, the lakes so common to this section of Ontario continued as did the forests. Finally though, we reached rolling hills with agriculture as we got closer to Ottawa.

We chose one museum to visit, the Champlain Trail Museum in Pembroke, ON. We thought it might aid us in understanding the history of Canada. Champlain was a French explorer who was one of the first to map the Canadian coast and is credited with founding Quebec City. Unfortunately, the museum was not that helpful.

Astrolabe display in Champlain Trail Museum

Astrolabe display in Champlain Trail Museum

There is an interesting display area about an astrolabe possibly belonging to Champlain which he supposedly lost in the area just south of Pembroke. The astrolabe found in 1867 ended up in an American’s hands and despite Canadian requests, did not end up back in Canada until 1989. There is some dispute if it was Champlain’s, in any event, it dates from that time period. (An astrolabe was used by navigators to help determine latitude and was invaluable for correctly mapping new areas to the Europeans.

Part of Parliament buildings

Part of Parliament buildings

We arrived in Ottawa around 4 pm at a Courtyard in downtown Ottawa. We can hear the music from the bars here in the ByWard Market area. The day had finally turned sunny and since Saturday’s forecast is for rain, we headed out to Parliament Hill to take some pictures. It appears that at least one of the three major buildings is undergoing major renovations and minor work at two others. We spent a pleasant two hours touring parts of the downtown area around Parliament. Tours will have to wait until tomorrow.

Part of Parliament

Part of Parliament

Ottawa has a population of just under 900,000 and has the look and feel of a big city; traffic, diversity, density, etc. It might be good to remind you that Canada has a population under 40,000,000; less than the population of California. However, Canada’s land size is slightly larger than the U.S. Its population density is about 1/10 that of the U.S. although neither one ranks high in that regard. No wonder we saw a lot of open space on this journey so far.

Rideau Canal in Ottawa

Rideau Canal in Ottawa

National War Memorial of Canada

National War Memorial of Canada

Terry Fox memorial in Ottawa and annual race is Sunday Sept 14

Terry Fox memorial in Ottawa and annual race is Sunday Sept 14

We tried to bring back our 2013 Canadian memories to help us on this trip. Besides Canadian money, it was critical to have a chip enabled credit card for purchases at gas stations and other locations. We are slowly remembering that restrooms are called washrooms. In cash transactions, the penny is ignored and the value rounded to avoid issuing penny coins. Our conversion of kilometers to miles goes well; not so great for transferring Celsius into Fahrenheit.

Our overnight stay at Nipissing University went well. When we left, a few professors were in early so the building was not completely deserted. No bear was sighted by us. We had breakfast at Tim Horton’s; a Canadian mainstay. Last year we tried one in Calgary, were not impressed, and stayed away from them for the rest of the trip. We decided to try them once more and we visited ones in North Bay for breakfast and Pembroke for a mid-day snack. Both times the food was fresh, tasty, and the stores clean.

Ed and Chris 10:15 pm 9/12/14

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2014 Trip Six, Sept. 11, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

North Bay, Ontario Thursday Sept. 11, 2014

Lodging in North Bay is unique for us. We are staying at Nipissing University, in a guest suite maybe attached to their conference center. I say maybe because there are few people around and the non-lodging rooms seem more like offices and seminar rooms. There do not appear to be many lodging suites. We may be the only ones staying overnight in this three story building. The room is not dissimilar to a hotel room with its own bathroom. There is a TV and work table, walls are concrete block. Oh yes, there is a sign posted on the door to the building that a black bear had been sighted in the area so be cautious. (But Super Fast Internet)

North Bay is a town of 54,000 located on a large lake (Nipissing) and was first seen by a European in 1615, Samuel de Champlain. It hosts the largest annual combined fur auction in North America. Railroads and lumbering were the main engines of its growth.

Today’s drive was 410 miles. We actually drove about 20 miles on a highway with a speed limit of 62 mph (100 kph)!!! This is the first time since we left Duluth on Monday that we had a speed limit over 56 mph (90 kph). Many times the speed was less as we drove through towns. I can say that Canadian drivers observe the speed limit as much as American drivers.

We left Wawa pretty early. Wawa went through a name change in the 1940s and 1950s when the big wigs decided to change the name to Jamestown to honor Sir James Dunn, the head of Algoma Steel which used iron ore from Wawa. It took the residents 12 years to get the name changed from Jamestown back to Wawa.

Another view along Lake Superior

Another view along Lake Superior

Of course, on this route, the towns were few and far between until we hit Sault Ste Marie. Most of the drive today was again water, forests and rocks. Lake Superior, Lake Huron, numerous rivers and small lakes, evergreen and deciduous trees and a variety of rock formations. The combination makes for great viewing; it might have been nicer if the sun had been out but at least the winds were less and the rain was gone.

We stopped at a park visitor center along Lake Superior. The two rangers were outside talking to two campers about which hikes would be passable after the rain. They could not get inside the building due to the power being out after yesterday’s storm. (Must have had an electronic door security system.) As we walked away, three other campers came up saying: “We survived the storm”.

Katherine's Cove on  Lake Superior

Katherine’s Cove on Lake Superior

Another stop was at Katherine’s Cove, named as the best secluded beach by one of the Ontario tourism brochures. It was secluded today; just us and the tree branches that came down in the storm. We did not spend a lot of time there.

Our drive has taken us alongside many railroad tracks but we have not observed one moving train. Given the need to move grain and oil, I found this surprising unless the main lines are located elsewhere.

We gassed up at a First Nations gas station and tourist store. Gas prices are as high as last year; generally we are paying $5.25 per gallon. The store closes down November 1 and takes two to three weeks more for inventory. They had a ton of material. I did manage to find a Christmas ornament that was both native designed and made in Canada. Earlier ornaments have been designed by Canadians but made in China.

Along Lake Huron, leaves turning a little

Along Lake Huron, leaves turning a little

Lunch was at a local restaurant in Thessalon, on a beach next to Lake Huron. Dinner was at a small French restaurant that initially looked like a dump next to the beach on Lake Nipissing. Yes, lots of water today.

Dinner in North Bay

Dinner in North Bay

Ed and Chris 9/11 10:15 pm

Fall leaf update. Once we were up north, higher than the Minnesota border. Now we are more on a level with Duluth and the leaves have turned a little here, more so than farther north.

image

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2014 Trip Six, Sept 10, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Wawa Ontario Canada Wednesday Sept 10

It was a day of water, most of it dumped by Mother Nature on our heads, the car roof, or the roof of the motel. Which in a way is slightly scary. We picked this motel, the Northern Lights Motel and Breakfast, for several reasons. We stayed in Wawa 42 years ago on our way back from Canada. That motel, the Agate Isle or some name similar to that, did not appear to be in business.

Northern Lights Motel in Wawa Ontario

Northern Lights Motel in Wawa Ontario

image

This motel, owned by a husband and wife, had been cut in two in October 2012 after days of rain caused dramatic flooding that had ripped a hole in the Trans Canada highway that runs in front of the motel that took a week to fix. The couple lost over half of their units to the flooding. It seemed appropriate to support their efforts to persevere. After the flooding, it took them almost 10 months to be operation. So today’s rains generate thoughts of that prior tragedy. Web site is
http://www.nlmotel.com.

back of bathroom door

back of bathroom door

The hotel is a typical road side, old style motel. There are no national chain motels in Wawa. This motel is the only one that offers free breakfast. We have passed a number of former motels on the drive here, and in Wawa, that are boarded up. Tourism does not appear to be fully recovered. Our room has a number of kitschy touches; little sayings and graphics, most of them humorous or tongue-in-cheek, a rubber ducky in the tub, a cribbage board, etc.

Our plans were to stay a full day here, see some waterfalls and go hiking in a near-by Provincial Park. We put aside the long term hiking but tackled the other activities.

the Wawa Goose

the Wawa Goose

Our first stop was at the Visitor Center where the Wawa Goose is located. Wawa means wild goose in Ojibwe. We found out the current statue is rusted and a fund-raising drive to replace it did not raise enough money so it will come down in 2016. The economy is not great, most of the mines in the area have closed down. A forestry products plant closed within the last ten years. The population of 3,000 souls is about one half of its peak.

Wawa has been the site of First Nations people for some time and was also the site of a Hudson’s Bay and of a North West Company fort beginning around 1725 and lasting until 1863. The beginning of the 20th century brought gold and iron ore mining and later lumbering. The railroads across Canada went north of here by 100 miles and the town did not get a road connecting it to Sault Ste Marie until 1960. Until then, all transportation was via Lake Superior.

The guide at the Visitor Center informed us that the Agate Isle motel had changed hands but was still in existence as the Mystic Isle Motel. She also informed us that one of the two main falls was supposedly waterless; not due to drought but to the hydro power company evidently diverting the water. She was trying to discover when “the water would be turned back on”.

Before hitting the falls, we drove into downtown Wawa and stopped at Young’s General Store, a touristy type place where we managed to help the local economy a bit. Then we drove to the falls that always works since its water was not used by any hydroelectric plant.

Sandy Beach

Sandy Beach

Silver Falls is down a dirt (Interpret that as muddy) road that leads also to Sandy Beach. We decided to visit the beach first. It was a short visit but the advertising was true. The beach was composed of soft sand and a beach grass restoration project was underway to preserve it. If it were warm, dry, and less breezy (it is raining, in the 40s and wind of 30 mph), it would make a great beach. I imagine though that the Lake Superior water is cooler than the water at Miami Beach although probably cleaner.

Silver Falls Wawa

Silver Falls Wawa

Silver Falls was pleasant, not huge and primarily seen from a distance. We had thought of walking the trail between Silver Falls and High Falls but the rain made what we could see of the trail as slick and muddy. We passed it by in favor of driving to the waterless falls (the Scenic High Falls of the Magpie River).

The High Falls are also reached via a gravel road, this time past a blueberry farm that frequently reminded us that this was their land, keep off of it, and stay away from the blueberries. It reminded me of the farmer in Lord of the Rings where Frodo and others would try to steal mushrooms.

The High Falls are quite nice-the water had been turned back on. They rush over rock outcroppings that produce fine spray, or was that the rain?, and provide great sound effects. We managed to record a short clip of the falls.

By now it was time for a late lunch in downtown Wawa. There were several options to choose from but our choice was okay. After lunch we stopped at an art gallery whose work we had observed at the visitor center. Tourist season is coming to an end, their shop closes down at the end of next week.

We tried driving around the area but the rain was more vigorous and the wind more energetic with the temperature in the low 40s so we returned to the motel and a nap and some cribbage which Chris won with the help of a 24 hand before heading out for dinner. We consoled ourselves with the fact that we still have lots of sightseeing days ahead of us and luckily we were not in Calgary which was getting more snow today.

Dinner was in downtown Wawa at a restaurant owned by a woman who just took it over this year after working with the previous owners for 11 years. Food was pretty good with a tasty double chocolate cake for dessert. The owner hopes business stays strong long enough to keep it open through October but traffic has been dropping sharply lately. Last year was the time for bridges in this area to be replaced but that construction business is not happening this year. Driving back to the hotel through the wind and rain did not do a lot to encourage a visitor to come back even later in the year either.

Ed and Chris 9/10 9:30 PM

NOTE We have added pictures and video to the two previous postings in case you viewed them as text only.

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2014 Trip Six, Sept. 9, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Wawa Ontario Tuesday Sept 9

Chris and Ed at Kakebeka Falls

Chris and Ed at Kakebeka Falls

Prior travel habits are returning. Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park opens at 8 AM. We parked the car in the lot and our time stamped parking receipt said 8:07 AM. We were the first ones at the falls. Lucky move since the sky was mainly sunny until about 10:30 AM.

There is a hydro power plant on the river here. It began in 1906. Under an agreement, the power company maintains a minimum flow over the falls from late May to mid-October. The weekend flow is twice the flow on weekdays like today.

Even though we were here 42 years ago, the only thing I truly remembered was the name. The falls are loud and powerful. The Kaministiquia River feeds the falls which are the second highest in Ontario; Niagara Falls are 13 meters higher.

Kakabeka Falls

Kakabeka Falls

We were able to spend 90 minutes here observing the falls from various vantage points and hiking along the path the voyageurs used to reach western Canada. This portage trail was in operation before the shorter Grand Portage trail was used and then again after 1803 when Grand Portage was shut down due to the U.S. – Canadian boundary being placed north of Grand Portage (see yesterdays blog). Obviously Kakabeka Falls could not be canoed so a short but steep portage was required. The voyageur carried 180 pounds of goods when portaging. From here the voyageur ventured up to Hudson’s Bay, to U.S. Rocky Mountains, and to western Canada.

Kakabeka Falls from the downstream river view

Kakabeka Falls from the downstream river view

From Kakabeka we ventured to Fort William, a historical re-creation of the original North West Company fort. Fort William is modeled after the real fort as it existed in 1816; a peak period when 200,000 pounds of furs were shipped through here to Montreal for sale to Europe. We took a 90 minute guided tour of the site.

There were two rival fur trading companies in Canada. The North West Company and the more established Hudson’s Bay Company. Hudson Bay using the northern Hudson’s Bay route to the trade in western Canada; the North West Company using the St. Lawrence River, Ottawa River and Lake Superior.

Tour guide demonstrating how one of two 90 lb packs were carried

Tour guide demonstrating how one of two 90 lb packs were carried

Two sets of voyageurs were involved. One type collected the furs from out west, using birch bark canoes, trading European goods like iron kettles and blankets for beaver, wolf, muskrat, weasel, squirrel etc pelts. A second type of voyageur in larger canoes transported the dried, dressed and packed pelts to Montreal via Lake Superior. I think it was a 6-8 week journey from here to Montreal. During the summer, the two groups summered here as goods were bartered and pelts dried,etc. A final party, the Rendezvous, was held in August before each group ventured back to its destination.

Ojibwe wigwam

Ojibwe wigwam

The Ojibwe, as at Grand Portage, were an integral part of this process and spent part of each summer year as the trading occurred. During the winter months, a small remainder of people kept the fort maintained. At Fort William, the commander was a physician (not quite a medical doctor) who ran the fort and dispensed medical care. Part of the voyageurs contract included free “medical” care for teeth, foot infections, and other ailments.

The fort was responsible for making canoes, keeping records, preparing pelts, feeding and keeping the peace among the voyageurs, etc. In 1821 it was closed as the Hudson’s Bay Company took over the North West Company. The two companies had been bitter rivals, part of that rivalry was most intense along the Red River of the North. Skirmishes from that area led to battles and court challenges that weakened both companies, leading to the merger.

Terry Fox statue in Thunder Bay

Terry Fox statue in Thunder Bay

We left Fort William as the skies became grayer. We made one quick stop on the northeast side of Thunder Bay to the Terry Fox memorial. Terry Fox was a young Canadian man from British Columbia diagnosed with cancer. At age 18 in 1980 with one leg amputated, he began a quest to run across Canada to raise funds for cancer research. He ran the equivalent of a 26 mile marathons each day from April until June (143 days) when recurring cancer forced him to quit just outside Thunder Bay. He died in 1982 after his remarkable effort gained nationwide attention and large sums for research. There is a memorial to him here along a stretch of the Trans Canada Highway named the Terry Fox Courage Highway.

The drive to Wawa is along the Trans Canada Highway. The scenery is Lake Superior, rivers, lakes, forests, and rock. It seemed to us that every bridge between Thunder Bay and Marathon, a distance of 184 miles, was under construction. Since most of the road is a two lane highway, this results in multiple stops as only one direction can use the lane of the bridge in operation while the other side is being constructed.

We made two brief stops before arrival in Wawa around 8 pm. The first was at Aguasabon River Gorge to observe the river’s waterfall on its way to Lake Superior. The second was in White River Ontario to take a picture of the statue commemorating Winnie the Pooh. In 1914 a Winnipeg soldier on his way to WWI stopped in White River where he purchased a small black bear cub. He ended up donating it, naming the bear Winnie after his hometown, to the London Zoo where it was watched by author A.A. Milne and his son Christopher. The book Winnie the Pooh stems from this bear.

Ed and Chris Sept. 9 late (Boy you really appreciate high speed internet when you don’t have it. Internet tonight is not as slow as last night but still 4-5 minutes for one picture to upload. The video of the falls just may have to wait until another day–Added WEd. morning.)

Fall color update: An isolated group of leaves

image

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2014 Trip Six, Sept.8, Fall in Canada and Deb and Rebecca’s Wedding

Thunder Bay, Ontario Monday September 8, 2014

Trip Six is underway, thankfully since we must have spent too much time at home between trips. We were not completely into our travel mode today. We got out of town an hour later than planned. The Finnish restaurant we were going to have dinner at in Thunder Bay closed an hour before we arrived. The planned hike to a falls just over the border took longer than expected and we decided to not complete it.

Not all was discombobulated though. We purchased Canadian money before leaving home. We had our hotel reservation for tonight as several people called or stopped at the hotel while we were checking in and they were told the hotel was full. We left our bear spray behind and did not have to declare it at Canadian customs/border. We knew we would be in the Eastern time zone once we crossed the border and thus lost an hour of travel time.

Sunday we had the car washed to start the trip on a nice note. But Highway 61 starting south of Grand Marais and for 10 miles into Canada was under construction, much of it a gravel surface that has eliminated any vestiges of cleanliness for the car.

Just a hint of the changing fall colors to come

Just a hint of the changing fall colors to come

As we begin this fall trip, the leaves are still green. We have observed a few shrubs starting to change colors. As time goes on, we expect to observe fall color changes in differing stages across the two countries.

First stop at Two Harbors MN

First stop at Two Harbors MN

Taconite plant in Two Harbors

Taconite plant in Two Harbors

We made sure our first stop was valuable; we had lunch at Betty’s Pies in Two Harbors, a landmark on the North Shore of Lake Superior. Two Harbors has a nice overlook of the lake and a taconite processing plant courtesy of Cliffs Mining. I write that somewhat tongue in cheek. Those of you who are older might recall that Two Harbors was the site of the first taconite plant on the Iron Range, owned by Reserve Mining. A lawsuit in the early 1970s gained nationwide attention to the effect of the taconite tailings being dumped (legally at the time) into Lake Superior. After months of testimony, the federal judge gave the EPA permission to regulate and stop the lake dumping of tailings. There were long term economic and environmental ramifications, the case remaining notable to this day.

Lake Superior

Lake Superior

Lake Superior

Lake Superior

The North Shore of Lake Superior is not unfamiliar to us. The lake was beautiful today with blue water and skies. Tomorrow is likely to be stormy and the vast expanse of the lake creates dangerous weather for shippers.

The history of the area includes fortunes made and lost in logging and mining. The environmental movement preserved lakes and woods at the cost of high-paying mining jobs, a tension that still exists in the area today. Tourism has gained a strong foothold as those same forests and lakes attract tourists, fishers, boaters, hikers, etc. The North Shore Drive was one of the early scenic drives in American, drawing over 1,000,000 visitors a year before WWII. Split Rock Lighthouse is a well known landmark and numerous rivers fall over cliffs rushing to the lake creating myriad waterfalls.

Given the time change at the border, we only made one tourist type stop. We visited Grand Portage National Monument six miles south of the Canadian border. The name goes all the way back to the 1700s when fur trading was an important trade between North America and Europe. Trappers shipped beaver and other furs from western Canada, and the US, to Montreal for trans shipment to Europe. However, the Pigeon River which leads into the interior of Ontario has miles of rapids and falls before it reaches Lake Superior. An 8.5 mile trail portaged around the rapids and led to a sheltered bay at what is now Grand Portage.

Looking down at part of the bay at Grand Portage

Looking down at part of the bay at Grand Portage

The North West Company established a headquarters at Grand Portage to barter and ship the pelts east. However, after the U.S. won the American Revolution, the border with Canada was set at the Pigeon River. Grand Portage was in the U.S. and the headquarters had to be re-located into British-controlled Canada. The friendly and mutually economic transactions ended for the Ojibwe. U.S. control ended up with the Native Americans losing most of their land and left them with the usual unfulfilled treaties.

Tonight we are in Thunder Bay, about 40 miles north of the border. Thunder Bay has a population of about 110,000 people and was formed in 1970 combing the cities of Port Arthur, Fort William and two townships. After years of competition, local communities got together and requested the provincial government to create a larger, merged community. This far thinking act has been successful in attracting more educational institutions and businesses. We passed the large paper plant run by Resolute which provides the newsprint we observed at our tour of the Minneapolis Star.

Ed and Chris Sept. 8;

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2014 Trip Five, Summer in the Cities, September 4

St. Paul, MN Thursday September 4, 2014

(NOTE: The post for Sept. 7 may show up below this entry instead of on top of it. Ed)

This is probably the last post for Summer in the Cities. The first post of the next trip (2014 Trip Six) is already drafted. We are spending our last few days here getting ready for departure on Monday and beginning plans for Trip Seven to start sometime in early November.

Yesterday, Wednesday Sept.3, we visited two local museums. The first was the MN History Center of which we are members but wanted to tour the special exhibits currently on display. One was a display of photographs taken by Chris Chambliss, documenting the social scene of African-Americans in the Twin Cities during the 1960s to 1990s. Much of that time we were in PA and there were many photos of places we were not aware of.

Lincoln Logs from exhibit "Toys of the 50s, 60s, and 70s"

Lincoln Logs from exhibit “Toys of the 50s, 60s, and 70s”

Hungry, Hungry Hippos

Hungry, Hungry Hippos

The next exhibit was titled “Toys of the 50s, 60s, and 70s”. The museum did a nice job of displaying toys and presenting hands-on displays for young children now to sample some of the toys. There were toys Chris and I played with such as Lincoln Logs, Matchbox cars, play ovens, etc.; and toys we had purchased for our daughters like Hungry, Hungry Hippos.

The third exhibit was a brief perspective on the War of 1812 but displayed in a thought-provoking manner by presenting it from the perspectives of Americans, Canadians (we invaded them, remember?), Native Americans and the British. How timely for us as we will be touring Montreal and Quebec, sites of battles from the War of 1812.

The final exhibit we explored was “Open House”, another unique display. The Historical Society had researched one home on the east side of St. Paul in what used to be called Railroad Island. As they described it: “This interactive exhibit brings to life the adage “if these walls could talk” by using a single, existing house-in the Railroad Island neighborhood on St. Paul’s East Side-as a window into the daily lives of people of the past. Stories of families, from the first German immigrants through the Italians, African-Americans, and Hmong who succeeded them, are told through rooms representing different eras of the house. Visitors become detectives, piecing together lives of the families who lived at 470 Hopkins Street.” The exhibit was well done; reminding one even as times change, there are patterns that repeat themselves in family lives.

After lunch we went to a small museum we had read about but never visited, one that does not receive much publicity; the NWA History Centre. This is a museum funded and run by volunteers who are primarily retirees and former employees of Northwest Airlines. It began before the lousy (my term) merger with Delta Airlines that robbed the Twin Cities of thousand of jobs as Atlanta took the HQ jobs. There are three rooms of displays and about 10 former employees were present when we made our visit. Vince from Purchasing and Anne, a former stewardess, were particularly enlightening as we chatted about the history and their memories. I remembered that there were planes called Stratocruisers, but never rode in one and did not know the second deck had cocktail lounges, sleeping berths and live organ music.

Various NWA aircraft with cutaway of Stratocruiser at left center

Various NWA aircraft with cutaway of Stratocruiser at left center

I thought maybe I had latched onto a hot topic for my Star Tribune reporter nephew to write about as they told us of a (former) employee who until last Saturday was still flying as a steward at age 90! Evidently the legal types had finally gotten nervous and figured they would pay to get him to retire, balancing age discrimination versus potential liabilities if anything should go wrong while he was working (this is all my conjecture). But alas for my nephew, one other Strib columnist was on the story and evidently the “retirement” package included a confidentiality clause. Down a little ways is the article from the Star Tribune on Sept. 2nd.

The other exhibits maybe were not as “hot” a topic as the retirement of an employee with 63 years of service but still were enjoyable. Northwest always did have uniforms that were stylish as one exhibit area demonstrated. A film goes back to the early days of Northwest which was founded as a mail carrier in 1926. I learned that the U.S. government unilaterally canceled air mail contracts in the 1930s, giving the job to the U.S. Army AIr Corps and threatening the economic viability of the airline. But, the military flopped at the job of delivering the mail by air and the federal government reversed its course, although Northwest had to re-establish itself as a new entity to meet guidelines for the new mail carrier contract. The early days of delivering mail by air between major cities were quite dangerous as the exhibits here told and reinforced the information we received at the Charles Lindbergh home in Little Falls a few weeks ago. We purchased some reading material and took home some free written material also.

From C.J.’s column in the Star Tribune on Sept 2, 2014 about Bob Reardon
Delta Air Lines’ oldest flight attendant Bob Reardon was retired Saturday.

“Was retired” seems appropriate because I’m hearing the 90-year-old didn’t want to go.

“I can’t talk,” Reardon told me when I went to his St. Paul residence Monday to find out what’s going on here. Reardon started flying Oct. 1, 1951, when what is now Delta was Northwest Orient.

On Bruce Retrum’s Facebook page, featuring a profile photo of him with Reardon, some are expressing dismay. Retrum, who identified himself as a flight attendant, posted a letter Aug. 25 saying, “The company announced the retirement of Robert Reardon effective August 30, 2014. Rather than a date to celebrate, it marks the end of a 62-year, 8-month career marred by a seven-month stressful and unfortunate ordeal. Robert’s pending retirement was not of his choosing. Robert has made it very clear that he does NOT want any ‘celebrations,’ ‘parties’ or ‘events,’ planned or hosted by the company. They would be inappropriate and insincere. Instead, a gathering of friends, family and supporters will be held to honor and reminisce with Robert when he is ready to do so. The world will most likely never have another ‘Robert-like’ icon.”

Ladyskywriter.com noted in 2013 that Reardon set a Guinness World Record. “Go to page 69, the Oldest category, where you will find Mr. Reardon at the very top of the page with the heading Oldest active flight attendant. Congratulations, Bob! This is a huge honor,” wrote Anne Billingsley Kerr, also known as Lady Skywriter.

Kerr flew with Reardon from 1956 to 1960, when she was forced to quit because she got married — something not required of men.

“I loved flying with Bob,” Kerr told me Monday. “I have a small chapter about him in my book, ‘Fujiyama Trays and Oshibori Towels.’ He is such a unique person. I don’t know what happened at Delta, but he did turn 90 in May and evidently he retired not voluntarily. We all hold him in such high regard it would be just awful if anything blew up on him.”

Although a couple of Reardon’s colleagues concede that he should have retired before now, they object to the way Delta Air Lines handled this departure. Airlines usually make big deals of these kinds of employee milestones. Reardon’s colleagues wanted him feted on a final flight, accompanied by a family member; then, as the plane pulled into the gate, the fuselage would have been drenched by fire trucks, which is a way the end of in-flight crew members’ careers have been honored.

Reardon’s colleagues are also appalled that the big bad airline is allegedly gagging a nonagenarian.

While his co-workers threw a big “All About Bob” party for him for his 60th year of service in 2011, some thought airline management was low-keying it with just cake and hors d’oeuvres. At the time he was purser on the three-day Tokyo flights.

“I’m not surprised,” Reardon told me then. “I don’t know of anyone else who is senior to me at Delta.”

Ed and Chris Sept 3 Noonish

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