Follow Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk as we explore the USA and Canada. Trips began in 2013. See sidebar. Since Jan. 2013, over 220,000 miles traveled and 1100 days on the road. Over 700 blog posts written. 2023-We are closing in on 350th National Park unit. Photo below is Pacific Ocean by Big Sur, CA
About Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk, MN travel bloggers; ckeh72@comcast.net
We are a husband and wife team living in St. Paul MN. Both of us retired by the end of 2012 and decided to travel and visit areas of the U.S. and Canada that we had not seen before. Most of the time we head out for 3-7 weeks; usually by driving, first in our 2001 Saturn and then when it hit 225,000 miles we traded it in for our 2016 Subaru Legacy . This travel blog is written to help us remember the great places we have visited and people we have met as well as to inform family and friends of our whereabouts.
Contact us at ckeh72@comcast.net
In 2013 we took the following trips: Trip 1-January--2 weeks in Florida to visit Orlando, St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Amelia Island. Trip 2-February and March-4 weeks in Hawaii, visiting the four major islands. Trip 3-March and April--several weeks in New Mexico visiting family followed by traveling cross-country to VA for VA Garden week. Trip 4-May and June--6-7 weeks driving to Las Vegas, the Sierra Nevada Mtns, Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia N.P, Salt Lake City, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Devils Tower and home. Trip 5-June- a quick trip to Boston to visit family. Trip 6-July and August-a 6-7 week trip to Calgary, Banff, Mt. Ranier and Mt. St. Helens, Olympic N.P., North Cascades N.P., Victoria, Vancouver, Whistler, Revelstoke, Jasper, Yoho,Whitefish lake, Theodore Roosevelt N.P. Trip 7-August and September- our daughters wedding in MD and returning home through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Trip 8-October and November-3-4 weeks in the Ozarks, Arkansas, Missouri. Trip 9-December and January 2014-Christmas in Santa Fe and New Years in Flagstaff and points in between.
In 2014 we took the following trips: Trip 1--a week in Ely MN, most of it dog-sledding in late Feb. Trip 2--6 weeks in the Deep South including LA, MS, AL, GA and FL in March and April. Trip 3--a trip to Boston to visit family Trip 4--May and June houseboating on Lake Powell followed by Monument Valley, Arches and Canyonlands N.P, Black Canyon of the Gunnison N.P, San Juan Mtns of CO Trip 5--time spent in MN and the Midwest Trip 6--visiting Ontario, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec, the Adirondack Mtns of NY, our daughters wedding in CT and home through Philly and Ohio, 7 weeks in September and October. Trip 7--Southern California including Joshua Tree and Mojave Desert N.P, Anza Borrego Desert State Park, and then to Flagstaff for Thanskgiving for three weeks in November.
In 2015, we took the following trips: Trip 1- 8 weeks traveling around FL in February and March, most of it on the panhandle, penninsula and Gulf Coast. Trips 2 and 4 to Boston in April and July. Trip 3 was to Isle Royale National Park in Lake Superior. Trip 5 was to southern MN. Trip 6 was to Voyageurs National Park and northwestern MN. Trip 7 was to the Great Smoky Mountains and neighboring areas.
In 2016 Trip 1 was to Chicago IL. Trip 2 was to southwestern MN. Trip 3 was to Boston. Trip 4 was to southwestern United States. Trip 5 was to Lake Superior. Trip 6 was to Winona MN. Trip 7 to western Massachusetts (the Berkshire Mountains). Trip 8 to the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. Trip 9 to Boston and Rhode Island.
In 2017, Trip 1 was to the Mississippi River Headwaters. Trip two will be a month long tour of Texas and another month traveling to and from Texas across the southern US.
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The re-created chapel at Fort Ross State Historical Park
Pleasant Hill, CA
Day 2 in Jenner began with a stop at the Cafe Aquatica for a coffee and biscotti for Chris while Ed had milk and a cookie. Not many breakfast options in a town of 120. Our drive north continued along the two lane coast road with a few single lane stretches where road construction was ongoing-and necessary. The goal was Fort Ross State Historical Park, 12 miles and half an hour north of Jenner.
Fort Ross
Fort Ross was a Russian settlement and fortification along the coast, established in 1812 by the Russian-American Company. It had built permanent locations in Alaska stating in 1784 and needed to provide food for its settlements in Alaska and protection from Spanish settlements to the south of Fort Ross and British settlements to the north. Alaskan Alutiiq natives helped construct the fort and dwellings. Out of Fort Ross, the Russians traded with Americans, farmed, built ships, had a blacksmith shop, etc. The first ship built in California was constructed here in 1818.
Hunting here, as in many locations along both coasts, so depleted the marine mammals that the Russians imposed a four year hunting moratorium on seals and otters. This was the first marine-mammal conservation law in the Pacific. Russian scientific studies contributed greatly to the understanding of the geography, biology botany, etc. of this area.
But increasing deficits in the running of the Russian-American Company forced the Russians into closing Fort Ross and selling off its assets to John Sutter who transferred most of the cattle, sheep, hardware, etc and moved them to his Sacramento area holdings. Ranching and lumbering were the primary products of later American owners of the fort area.
Currently the state historical park has one surviving original structure, the home of the last manager of the Russian American Company. Re-creations of the stockade, chapel, blockhouses, and a warehouse can be viewed along with exhibits. Chris and I pondered about how America managed to stave off becoming a series of colonies belonging to England, France, Spain and Russia. What other country has managed to thrive, yes with many faults, but thrive with people from so many varied countries from around the world and not be ruled by an oligarch or monarchy?
We reversed course and headed back south, passing through Jenner and then east into the mountains on our way to Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve. This redwood forest had been devastated two years ago by fire and much of the park is still off limits to foot traffic. Here we were able to view redwoods with fire scars on their trunks but, so far, still thriving. This fire was started by lightning, not arson or recklessness. Again the majesty of the enormous trees and the diverse habitats underneath the trees made for a calm, yet awe-inspiring walk through the only trail currently open to the public.
Walking through Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve
The coastal redwoods, tallest living trees on Earth, grow naturally only along a narrow coastal belt from southern Oregon to central California. In the late 1800s, James Armstrong helped save this section of the redwoods by donating the land to his daughter with plans for a natural park. California obtained the land in 1934. Armstrong also purchased and cut huge swaths of other sections of redwood forest to run his sawmills. One interesting display in the park shows a section of cut redwood, with tree rings running from the post Civil War era back to well before the Magna Carta in 1215.
Friday morning view from our cabin
We returned to Northwood restaurant for an early dinner and made it back to our cabin just before 12 hours of rain began. No night sky viewing tonight, last night’s stars were replaced by a steady drumming of rain on the roof. The roar of the ocean waves continued as loud Thursday night as it had been Wednesday night. Something, possibly the rain, chased away the harbor seals which had been sunning on the land between the river and the ocean and only a few of them greeted us Friday morning.
The second phase of our journey began Wednesday the 22nd as we left downtown San Francisco to explore the larger San Francisco Bay Area. Once again we walked to the BART station, leaving the hotel around 7 AM, and went to the airport to pick up our rental car. While the temperatures were in the lower 40s, at least there was no rain. Rain, however, is forecast for today and the next 10 days. We were headed for Muir Woods National Monument on the north side of the Golden Gate Bridge. Muir Woods requires you to obtain an advance purchase parking reservation given its nearness to San Francisco, its few parking spaces, and its popularity.
We had chosen a 10:30 to 11 AM window not knowing how much time we would need to pick up the rental car, etc. Luck was on our side and we were early enough that we stopped for a McDonalds breakfast. To get to Muir Woods, we drove over the Golden Gate bridge, up into the mountains north of San Francisco. Much of this land is protected between state and federal parks with abundant opportunities to enjoy the outdoors.
Instead of its normal 8 AM opening, Muir Woods opened at 10 AM Wednesday. Tuesday the heavy winds mentioned in yesterday’s blog had forced the park to close early. Wednesday they delayed the opening time to allow staff to inspect the trails and the buildings to minimize injuries to park visitors. Thus, our 10:30 time got us in ahead of most visitors for the day. Surprisingly the expected rains were holding off and we were able to get numerous pictures with lovely blue skies surrounding the treetops.
Chris and I can’t agree if we have been here before. We do know we visited Point Reyes Lighthouse just north of here and climbed up and down the 313 or so stairs to the lighthouse. Muir Woods was established in the early 20th century to protect its natural beauty and prevent logging of its massive redwoods. Our walk in the woods was magical, looking up at the towering trees and gazing at their massive trunks. The main trail meanders along a small brook and is in a valley so you also look up at the trees growing higher on the hillside. Some of the trails are off-limits due to trail erosion. We spent about an hour here, walking, admiring, enjoying the peace and quiet, and just plain relaxing.
We left John Muir and drove through the mountains and along the coast to Point Reyes National Seashore. This was our first look in a number of years at the Pacific ocean coast, much different than the coastline of the Atlantic ocean. Although close to downtown San Francisco, this area has small towns, two lane roads, ocean and mountains, and surprisingly to us, a fair amount of agriculture. We had known that California has passed Wisconsin as the number one dairy state but still we were not expecting to see cattle, sheep, goats, etc. populating the area that would normally be crowded suburban developments.
Point Reyes National Seashore was set up and accommodated concerns and opposition from local landowners. In this case, the agricultural interests that had been in the area worked together with conservationists to create a park that co-exists with agriculture. The seashore is maintained and protected while inland farms predominate. The visitor center is in the Bear Creek Valley area, part of the flatter, agricultural area. As mentioned, we skipped the lighthouse this time and chose not to walk down to the ocean. We expect to do more of that in the Big Sur area later in this trip.
The journey continued, driving through the ever-changing mixture of flat lands, valleys, mountainsides, and coastline hugging the narrow two lane road. Our lodging for Wednesday and Thursday nights was in the town of Jenner, population 120 people. We chose it not because of the abundance of restaurants, definitely not the abundance of restaurants, but for the cabin overlooking the Russian River emptying into the Pacific Ocean. The cabin sits on the bluff and its view was unobstructed towards the rocks, coastline, river, and harbor seals that were frequently populating the land buffering the river from the ocean. Our lodging was not glamorous but clean and neat and, as noted, with a fantastic view. Parking was tricky, as we had to make sure we stopped before we hit the wooden fence that would probably not have stopped the car from going over the cliff. The heat from the propane gas fireplace/stove was a little spotty but given that they’re not used to temperatures in the high 30s and low 40s, we put up with it.
We drove inland about 20 miles and had dinner at a restaurant attached to the local golf course in Guerneville California. Food was very good and its name was Northwood, close call to the restaurant in North St. Paul MN owned by my parents back in the 50s through the 70s. The lodging in Jenner had no TV, no cell service, and no Internet. Thus the posting for the last several days has been delayed until we were able to come back into a more technological type of society.
The wind is the big story of the day, consistently over 30 mph. It picked up around noon, while we were walking along Fishermans Wharf and Embarcadero Boulevard. Our journey today started with a bus ride. The number 8 bus runs right along side the Hilton and goes directly to Fishermans Wharf. Or at least, most of them do. We got on a number 8 bus after waiting all of one minute. We had just missed another one so we we happy to hop on this bus. After only four blocks, the driver said: (politely) end of the line, everybody off. So all four of us got off since evidently this number 8 bus did not go all of the way. We crossed the street, waited another minute, and caught the next number 8 and this one took us within 3 blocks of the wharf area. Close enough.
Chris was looking for postcards and there were more than enough options of stores selling tourist trinkets that she was able to pick up several postcards, none of the Presidio or Golden Gate Park though. In another store, the man on duty was telling us of his connections to Minnesota and that this week, numerous school districts have closed for a week of vacation. San Francisco has not, but suburban ones yes. That may help explain the crush of families we encountered Monday at the Academy of Sciences. I wonder if there is a national database of school vacation closings??
Our next stop might surprise you. Chris saw a magic shop and we went in. She is still impressed by the card tricks we encountered at the Exploratorium. Chris made two purchases and plans to spend a little time to try to learn a few magic tricks. Results may or may not be published in future editions of the blog.
We checked out the sea lions, they were still there and made a snack stop at Boudin’s bakery. Same bakery as Sunday but in a different location. Pastries were just as good. We were feeling like a couple of hobbits having our second breakfast.
At the Cartoon Art Museum
Our next destination was several blocks away at the Cartoon Art museum. This small museum is dedicated to cartoon artists and their methods. Panels from many artists were present and we picked up information about new heroes that are peppering the books younger people are now following.
As the winds were picking up, we decided to head back to the hotel. It was still sunny but the temperature was dropping and we had accomplished our goals for the day. The Cartoon Art museum is not far from the turnaround point for the Hyde Powell cable car line so we that was our means of transportation to return. The waiting line today was short, we hopped on the second cable car and got off in Chinatown.
Late lunch was at Ladle and Leaf, a small San Francisco based soup and sandwich shop with a touchy feely mission statement posted out front. Food was good, the staff even cut off a hunk of butter from their stash for me to use on the bread that goes with the soup. I guess they normally expect you just to dunk the bread in the soup since there were no knives around to spread the butter.
Tomorrow we pick up our rental car early and head north towards Muir Woods.
It was the best of days, it was the worst of days. Slight exaggeration but you get the idea. First stop of the day was great. The San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum. In prepping for this trip, I thought the Conservatory of Flowers would be a highlight and the Botanical Garden would be ho-hum. I was wrong. As you read before, the Conservatory was disappointing. The Botanical Garden, however, was a delight. Plants and trees bloom at varying times throughout the year but there were numerous varieties in bloom today. Some at peak, some before or past peak, but enough blooms to add plenty of color throughout the garden. Add to this the interesting shape and colors of the green vegetation and the two hours we spent walking around the botanical garden were pure enjoyment.
We arrived early and while there were plenty of people also enjoying the day, it did not feel crushed. The temperature started in the mid to high 50s on its way to the low 60s with plenty of sun. Benches are scattered profusely around the walkways so sitting and enjoying the view was easy and encouraged. Magnolias and camellias were the highlights, showing off large and colorful blooms. The Garden brings in plants from similar climates from around the world and the unusual was a normal occurrence here.
The Academy of Sciences was just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Botanical Garden but a world away in terms of the crowds. This place was the big disappointment. Forget that it was crowded and over run with kids, strollers, and parents. That would have detracted from our enjoyment if there had been a reason to enjoy the facility. First, it was overpriced. Somehow, my notes had indicated the cost to enter was $6. Wrong. For seniors, the cost was $43. Per person. But my research had indicated this place was a marvel. It sounded that way. It has a planetarium, an aquarium, and a natural history section in a building that was completely renovated in 2008. A place you must experience. Certainly it must be worth the money, here too there was a line to get in.
Well, the aquarium is small and modest. The exhibit areas are also small and uninteresting. The rainforest display is rated very highly but the line to get in was as long as a line at DisneyWorld. Walking around the exterior indicated it too was relatively small. Given the other exhibits, we could not see wasting our time in a very long line for the unlikely chance of seeing a marvelous exhibit.
I know I am being harsh but we have been to all sorts of museums around the U.S. We would not put this on anyone’s must see list unless this is likely to be the only museum of its type you are ever going to visit.
We came back and had an early dinner at the House of Nanking. This is a Chinese restaurant run by the same family since 1988. When we came back from Cafe Zoetrope and again from City Lights Bookstore, there was a line waiting outside to get in. This was in sharp contrast to most restaurants we passed which were lucky to have a few tables occupied. Luckily for an early dinner there was no wait. The food was good but not spectacular. Gee, I am sounding a bit negative today aren’t I? It is not that we did not enjoy the meal, just that it did not seem dramatically better to justify the long lines of the previous days.
Our streak of great weather will be coming to an end. Tomorrow the high will only be in the low to mid 50s with clouds and winds over 20 mph by mid day. Even cooler on Wednesday and rain by Thursday.
Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco
Surely you have heard the phrase “The early bird gets the worm”. Well today it was “The early traveler avoids the lines”. Golden Gate Park is 1100 acres in size, 20% larger than New York’s Central Park. It is home to museums, gardens, trails, picnic areas, etc. We plan to spend two days there, the first being today. Our first stop at 9:30 AM was at the Japanese Tea Garden. In front of us waiting to buy tickets were three groups totaling seven people. When we left Golden Gate Park around 2:30 pm, the line to buy tickets appeared to be a block long with about 100 people waiting to get in.
Golden Gate Park has been described as the lungs of San Francisco, with green grass and trees abounding. Today those San Franciscans who had not headed to the Sierra Nevada Mountains to go skiing must have gone to Golden Gate Park. The runners, joggers, and bikers we saw the last few days brought their kids and were teaching them how to ride a bike. Their parents and grandparents were with them also. It made for a slow go when trying to move about the park.
The park has a shuttle service, not heavily used today. We rode it to get a lay of the land. The shuttle drives down a road that is closed to vehicles except for the shuttle. Well, the walkers were going faster than the shuttle. People were all over the road and the shuttle never used its horn but waited for people to realize the shuttle was behind them. Then the people slowly moved over. The parents with kids learning how to ride a bike never seemed to think to pay attention to anyone other than their child. People who had stopped to talk just looked at the shuttle until they finally realized maybe they should get out of the traffic lane. We weren’t in a hurry and when it was not a safety issue, it was entertaining.
On the shuttle at Golden Gate Park
After the Japanese Tea Garden we went to the Conservatory of Flowers. It is closed on Monday so today was the day to get in. I must admit I was disappointed. Yes, it had unusual plants and a mix of types of habitat. However, it was just underwhelming. I could not find official size comparisons but the Como Park Conservatory in St. Paul seems larger, with more displays-and its free.
A few blooming flowers at the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park
Next stop, the deYoung Museum. Golden Gate has two art museums. The de Young is also closed on Monday so it was on today’s (Sunday) schedule. The museum’s focus is on American, African and Oceanic art. The second museum, the Legion of Honor, focuses on European art. I hate to sound like I am whining but truth be told I am finding myself more tired and less energetic. Thus, going around an art museum was more of a mandated exercise than an exercise of fun. The art did not grab me. I just wandered aimlessly around the galleries. More enjoyment came from the museum’s observation tower which provided a new view of San Francisco and a delicious lunch from its cafe.
The de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park
A few photos to prove we did go into the art museum
Going back to the hotel, we fed Chris’ new addiction-Uber. I must admit, Uber was a lot easier than finding the bus stop, transferring to another bus or train, and walking the last half mile to the hotel.
San Fran today seemed much more vibrant and alive, both out at Golden Gate Park and as we walked around downtown on our way to the famous City Lights Bookstore. With a population density three times that of St. Paul, it seemed inevitable that we would finally come across that vibrancy.
Outdoor sculpture at de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park
This is Presidents Weekend and the tourist areas were busier than the previous two days. Still mainly sunny and people were out enjoying the day. We upped our touristy quotient by visiting the Fishermans Wharf area. We took an Uber up to the San Francisco National Maritime Museum Historical Park area and walked around for an hour and half since we got here at 9 and many places were not yet open for business. We walked and sat and enjoyed the morning. For us, it was a more relaxed pace than usual, with a mid-morning pastry break and an early afternoon ice cream break.
People and scenery watching were good. Besides the usual joggers, bikers, and walkers, there were about half a dozen people swimming in the water off the cove by the old Aquatic Bathhouse. A few sailboats were in the water, we did see more by the middle of the afternoon. Several guys were out selling fresh caught crabs to anyone who was interested. The sea lions were entertaining a crowd at Pier 39.
As a side note, there is a much higher percentage of people here wearing face masks. Interestingly, when you see a couple of people together, one might have a mask while one does not. There is also a very high percentage of people obeying the “Walk, Don’t Walk” lights. I guess there are not any visitors from Boston or D.C. here.
We only visited the two buildings associated with the National Park Service’s San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. One building was based in an old cannery and had the bulk of the exhibits and videos-but no bookstore. The exhibits told the story of San Francisco from its sea perspective. The vast majority of new arrivals came by boat; land routes were practically non-existent and the railroads came at least 20 years after the gold rush. Even after railroads arrived, San Francisco had a western perspective with trade to China, Japan, Alaska a major economic driver.
The exhibits demonstrated how various sections of San Francisco were tied to different economic drivers, such as lumbering, fishing, ship building, cargo handling, etc. Historic vessels are available to be examined. New technologies kept disrupting the status quo but San Francisco has managed to thrive.
Among others, we discovered: how rivers feeding into San Francisco Bay allowed travel far into central California; how the gold rush led to numerous ships being abandoned in the harbor as sailors went searching for gold and the ships sank to the bottom and today lie beneath the buildings of the Financial District; and how container ships pushed cargo from San Francisco to other cities like Oakland and San Diego that had more land available to store the containers until loaded onto railroads.
The second NPS building was the renovated Aquatic Park Bathhouse. Built by the WPA during the period before WWII, it has had a sorry history. The city leased the building to private casino operators rather than making it open to the public. WWII saw the facility used as headquarters for various military groups. After the war, part of the building was used as a senior center but much of it sat vacant until a maritime museum was established in the building. In 1998 the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park was established and the museum in the old Aquatic Park Bathhouse was added to the park.
The NPS has renovated part of the building with more to be accomplished. The murals constructed by WPA artists gleam. Models of various types of ships are enclosed in glass cases. A highlight of their display is the 19 foot sailboat Mermaid used by 23 year old Kenichi Horie in 1962 for the first solo voyage from Osaka to San Francisco. He left Japan in secrecy but was a hero by the time he made it to San Francisco. Horie went on to make numerous solo voyages. In 2022 at age 84, he made the trip from San Francisco to Japan becoming the oldest man to sail solo non-stop across the Pacific.
The cable car was our transportation option to get home. At $8 per ride per person, it seems to be mainly used by tourists. There was a long line to get on the Powell Hyde line and a transit ambassador helped us navigate the way to the Powell Mason line that also goes to Fishermans’s Wharf. The wait here was much shorter. There was a service glitch and the line could not bring one all the way to the downtown end but would end in Chinatown. This was great for us, Chinatown is basically where our hotel is.
We went to church at Old St. Mary’s Cathedral in Chinatown. All during the service we heard Chinese music playing on the sidewalk outside the church. The pastor happened to be in the back of the church when we arrived and in talking to him, found out he used to live in Minneapolis when he was the pastor of the Newman Center at the University of Minnesota.
Dinner was Italian at Mangia Tutti, not far from our hotel. Everyone working there seemed to be family members. Good food.
Today was spent exploring areas near the Golden Gate Bridge. After breakfast, we took an Uber (our first, normally we have our own car or have a rental) to the Welcome Center for the Golden Gate Bridge. This was primarily a photo op, there is not much at the Welcome Center but the staff there helped direct us to the paths we would walk to our destinations for the day. We will be driving over the bridge next Wednesday and had no desire to walk over the bridge. Our day was going to include enough walking as it was.
Our first real destination was Fort Point National Historic Site, reached by walking along the bay and restored shore lands from the Welcome Center. The fort is located right under the Golden Gate Bridge. Its primary claim to fame was as a coastal fortification guarding San Francisco Bay. Built from 1853 to 1861, the fort was built similar to numerous other forts on the east coast. The fort was built at the entrance to San Francisco Bay, at the site of a small Spanish fort dating back to 1776. Granite from China was combined with locally made bricks and earthen embankments to provide a three tiered fort able to hold 126 cannon. Fort Point was well preserved and additional improvements were underway to accommodate enhanced exhibits and displays.
Fort Point
The 90 foot bluffs were reduced to 15 feet to allow for cannon balls to ricochet off the water before hitting a ship. Cannon balls from this fort could hit any ship entering the bay. Combined with cannon located on the north side of the bay and cannon on Alcatraz Island, it is doubtful any Confederate ship would have been able to enter San Francisco Bay. Just like the Spanish fort, Fort Point never saw any military action. Basically abandoned except for duty during WWII, the site was given to the National Park Service in 1970.
We left Fort Point, walking along the Golden Gate Promenade to the Presidio. Now, I hope I can explain this next section clearly, concisely, and accurately. The Presidio, distinct from Fort Point although right next to it, also started as a Spanish barracks and military reservation. The U.S. military occupied this 1,491 acre site until 1994, preserving the area against development as San Francisco expanded. The Presidio contained barracks, forts, a hospital, a cemetery, Coast Guard life saving station, etc. Over the years, the Presidio was enhanced as a base and living area by the addition of trails, forested areas, strengthened beach dunes, etc.
In 1972, Congress created Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). Encompassing nearly 81,000 acres, Golden Gate National Recreation Area includes land north of Golden Gate Bridge, south along the coast, Alcatraz Island, and the Presidio. It is the largest urban park system in the National Park Service. Although not subject to the National Park Service, the Presidio was included in the boundaries of GGNRA.
In 1994, the Presidio itself was transferred to the National Park Service after being declared surplus to the military needs of the U.S. But what to do with a 1500 acre site with housing, a hospital, offices, parks, etc.? In a bold experiment, the federal government created a new partnership; transferring 80% of the land of the Presidio to the Presidio Trust and the balance to the National Park Service. The Trust is run by a Board named by the U.S. President and had 20 years to become self-sufficient (accomplished in 2013). The Trust now runs the commercial and residential spaces (1,346 housing units all rented at prevailing San Francisco rates), has its own police and park system, and collaborates with the National Park Service on joint programs.
While housing has to be marketed similar to the San Francisco area, one just has to look at the photo below to understand the difference in the living environment. The military’s ability to guard against encroachment has created a haven unique to San Francisco. Trees, greenery and open spaces abound compared to row upon row of houses jammed together with little tree canopy visible in the neighborhoods around the Presidio. But the Presidio is not off-limits, so the trails and combined greenery of the National Park Service provide a welcome respite for all. This was obvious to us as we walked along Golden Gate Promenade from Fort Point to the Presidio Visitor Center. Bikers and walkers, families and singles were all along the trails, the marsh area, the playgrounds, etc.
Compare the Presidio in center to the areas to the top and left. Fort Point is to the lower right.
The Presidio Visitor Center is a jewel, a cooperative venture between the National Park Service (GGNRA), Presidio Trust, and the Golden Gate Conservancy, the volunteer organization affiliated with GGNRA. We were lucky enough to talk with an interpretive park ranger as well as the park ranger responsible for the exhibits who had been involved in the numerous and long running negotiations to build the visitor center with partners that frequently had different visions. It took time, but the result was worth it as the displays are well crafted and technologically advanced.
The Presidio has free transit services, one of which took us on a 30 minute loop tour of much of the property. Later, we took a free bus trip back downtown. In between, we visited one of the commercial establishments in the Presidio-the Walt Disney Family Museum. This is a 40,000 square foot museum established and operated by the Disney Family, not the corporation. It is exhaustive, covering just about everything related to the family and the creations of Walt Disney. From walls lined with the various awards he won, to hand written notes about early cartoons, to videos with cartoon shorts, to a 12 foot diameter model of Disneyland. There was no way one could absorb it all, particularly after a morning walking all over Golden Gate National Recreation Area.
Just a small part of the Disney Family Museum
When we got off the Presidio bus downtown, we decided to have old fashioned food. Cheeseburgers and fries at a small establishment called Ziggys. Since lunch was a granola bar, eating early (4 PM) seemed a wise choice.
View from our room, looking north towards Coit Tower and Alcatraz
San Francisco, Feb. 15-16.
We can’t remember when we were last in San Francisco. Our memories include the cable car museum, Wells Fargo museum, Coit Tower, Japanese gardens but have no idea of when that occurred but we don’t plan to revisit those locations (except maybe the Japanese gardens). This trip will be seven days just in downtown and another two weeks traveling around the Bay Area. Luckily, we have about a week before the rains return in earnest so blue sky pictures may predominate for the near future. Of course that statement presumes our legs hold out with all of the walking we are doing.
The flight over the Rockies on Wednesday was clear and the snow capped mountains were amazing to look at. The snow looked to cover everything, civilization was nowhere to be seen. What we saw during the ride on BART from the airport to downtown took care of that illusion. Homes were stacked close together, few trees, freeways, etc.
Impressions do not necessarily equal reality but so far San Francisco is cleaner than expected, amazing architecture, interesting variety of people and street scenes, everyone walking around with a cup of coffee in their hand, and less crowded than one would expect for a town that is a major tourist draw with its own population of over 800,000. (Cousin Judy—you would be disappointed, we can’t find the San Francisco Chronicle on sale anywhere. The front desk staff at the Hilton had no idea where a newspaper copy could be purchased.)
We are staying at the Hilton Financial District and the BART stop on Montgomery gave us an eight block walk through office skyscrapers. We are across from the Transamerica pyramid building. Coit Tower is directly in front of our 22 second floor room. It’s lit dramatically at night and stands out as a predominant site. The green lights shining on the spires of the Saints Peter and Paul church also enhance the evening view. The flashing lighthouse beacon from Alcatraz island is another feature seen outside our window. Golden Gate Bridge is to the but hidden behind a building on Russian Hill. San Francisco Bay is to the right.
The Hilton is right at the beginning of Chinatown so we are immersed in the Chinatown street scene. There is even a small Chinese Cultural Center on the third floor of the hotel. Portsmouth Square is across the street and people (usually men) are sitting around playing chess and cards with others looking over their shoulders as they play. Early morning brings out the Tai Chi aficionados. Right across the alley was a Chinese restaurant that the hotel staff recommended. We were hungry, CA time is two hours behind MN time but the restaurant did not open until 5 PM so we spent half an hour walking through part of Chinatown. Chris serenaded me with the song ‘Grant Street’ from Flower Drum Song as we walked along the streets. Yes, I know Flower Drum Song portrays stereotypes but this song mentions Grant Street in San Francisco’s Chinatown so just deal with it. Tonight I can also see someone shooting off local fireworks. Initially the sound was nerve-racking; given today’s environment room I thought it was gunshots. The sight of fireworks made for a comforting answer to an initial concern.
[I am trying to control my anger and frustration. After having completed the blog, and having watched the autosave function indicate it was working, I found out that most of the blog, at least 90 minutes of work, was lost. I have this love hate relationship with this blog. I love the ability to look up what we have done from years ago. But the frustration of the time spent, with time lost from the difficulties with the keyboard messing up it or the dictation system screwing up, starts to bring the hate portion very close to the love portion. But so far the love portion is slightly ahead. and so I continue. Of course, what was done before it was lost always strike me as being better than what is dictated the second time around.]
We went to bed early to deal with the time change and the time spent walking. Tomorrow will be the start of another busy day.
This Hilton does not have a continental breakfast but they give us an allowance to use in the restaurant each day. It’s not enough of course but it’s a nice gesture. After breakfast Thursday morning we head up early to Pier 33 to tour Alcatraz. We depart for Pier 33 early of course. For us early means to be extra cautious, making sure we have enough time to walk to the pier and still arrive the 30 to 45 minutes before departure time that the cruise people recommend. We know they recommend this way too early arrival to make sure no one arrives late or to make people use their gift shop. But there is no gift shop today. We are so early we are able to get on an earlier boat and arrive almost an hour ahead of our planned arrival on Alcatraz.
Alcatraz is universally known as the inescapable prison for the federal penitentiaries worst inmates. The staffing level here was dramatically higher than any other federal prison. But before we hear about and enter the prison, we explored several exhibits about the Native American occupation of Alcatraz in 1969. Before the occupation, the prison had been closed in 1963 and was sitting abandoned. The Native American occupation lasted 19 months and surprisingly to us, President Nixon told federal officials to go easy on the occupiers. By 1971 few occupiers were still present and federal officials removed the remaining people. The goals of the Native American occupation were not reached but it raised widespread sensitivity to Native American concerns around the country. I thought the Native American comment about the occupation was indicative of life in America. They stated that Alcatraz was like a reservation because it was so far removed from modern facilities, had a rocky and poor soil where nothing would grow, and wild game was not found.
Alcatraz has a surprisingly variety of flowers growing on the island with volunteers who come to pull weeds and showcase the flowers. Many birds enjoy the island and their protected habitat. There is even a nesting pair of peregrine falcons. Of course, our first stop was to get a National Park Service stamp since Alcatraz is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area created in 1972. When the park was created, Alcatraz was made a part of it. That park designation stopped the demolition of the abandoned buildings on the island. Without that designation, there would be no Alcatraz as a major tourist attraction in San Francisco. We talked with a park ranger in order to get a junior ranger booklet that I collect to bring back to the park ranger who works on junior ranger booklets for the Mississippi National River And Recreation Area. The Ranger here had a boyfriend from Minnesota so we spent some time chatting about Minnesota.
Eventually we work our way to the inside of the prison and take the audio tour. It’s depressing seeing the tiny cells and limited activities for these dangerous inmates. Of course dangerous is relative; during World War II, a number of conscientious objectors were imprisoned here. Hardly the same level of crime as the killers, robbers, and inmates with various mental problems. The tour takes you through the cell areas, library, dining area, recreation area and talked about several of the escape attempts inmates undertook. No one is known to have successfully escaped from Alcatraz. Several inmates left the island but were never found again. It appears certain that the waters of San Francisco Bay were their final resting place.
After Alcatraz, we went to the Exploratorium. This is a science-based collection of exhibits that make obvious playing can also be learning. The various exhibits showcase interesting facts about science and the children present we’re having a great time. We knew this was more oriented towards children but it had such a positive recommendation that we stopped in anyway. We enjoyed in particular the dry ice exhibit demonstrating the activities of comets. The movement of the dry ice in water, the attraction between dry ice particles, and the water vapor given off made for an interesting and educational display. The young men demonstrating magic trips were pleased and gratified decision to see the amazement expressed on Chris’s face as their tricks were successful.
A model geyser at the Exploratorium.
After the Exploratorium, we continued our walk along the Embarcadero to the Ferry building. This had been the major transportation point of the bay area until the Golden Gate and Oakland Bay bridge were built. The Ferry Building fell on hard times but has been revived and rehabilitated. It’s now the front door to several of the ferry cruise lines with numerous food vendors inside. We stopped and had some ice cream to help make the day memorable.
One stall was “Art by Aleisha”, a small area with hand painted maps of towns and campuses. San Fran, the Bay area, Santa Clara, Boston College, Georgetown, etc. But browsing through the stacks I found maps of the University of Minnesota and more amazingly, the University of St. Thomas in St. Paul. Whoa! That seemed unusual for a small stall in San Francisco. Chris went to the web site and it turns out Aleisha is a Minnesota raised, San Francisco based artist who founded her own business. She even painted a mural in Lowertown St. Paul. Interesting coincidence.
We were able to return to the Hilton with just enough time to stop in to the Chinese cultural center which closed at 4 PM. It’s located on the third floor of the Hilton hotel and let’s just say that there was no need for us to rush back to see it.
Dinner was at the Cafe Zoetrope, two blocks from the Hilton. This was the historic Sentinel Building dating from 1907. Its current claim to fame, besides its construction and appearance, is that Francis Ford Coppola located his offices here. Numerous movie scripts were written, edited, or sound mixed in this building. He revived the restaurant and 1999 and many of the recipes are supposedly his creations or adjustments to other recipes. The food was OK. The ambience was nice.
The Sentinel Building, home of Cafe Zoetrope
Ed and Chris, Friday morning, September 17 in San Francisco
The beginning of the Mississippi River as it flows out of Lake Itasca
Park Rapids, MN Sunday January 22
Going to Itasca State Park in winter is one of Chris’ favorite ways to celebrate her January birthday. This year we went for three nights over a weekend when the Park had both their Twinkle Light hike and a Trailside Lantern hike.
The ride up Friday was uneventful, other than having to find a new restaurant for lunch on the way up. One old favorite had closed and a second was just doing take out. We stopped at Boondocks in Wadena for the first time. It has an extensive menu with scratch made meals. It was quite good, we may be returning in the future.
Once we found these Four Season Suites at the park, we have made them our standard. Two pods of 6 attached units. Each has a separate bedroom with two queen beds, a sitting area, kitchen, full bath, and a screened in porch that does not get much use in winter. For just $105 a night, it is a real bargain. Internet and cable TV although we have not watched the TV.
Four Season Suites at Lake Itasca State Park
The visitor center at Itasca is one of the best in the state park system. We know, we have been to all of the state parks, many of them multiple times. Two fireplaces, numerous comfortable sitting areas, exhibits about the Mississippi and the northern forests plus bathrooms and a gift shop. Bird feeders entice one to sit by the fireplaces and watch the birds swoop in to eat at the feeders.
We alternate between reading and hiking, usually a morning and an evening hike. We have been quite fortunate this year, the weather has been sunny and mild. Temps have been mid teens to mid twenties with vey little wind. This morning all the trees had a nice coating of hoarfrost to increase the picturesque quotient.
Mississippi River
No trip up here could be complete without the requisite hike to the headwaters of the Mississippi River. Even in winter, the river starts out flowing as the water leaves Lake Itasca from under the mantle of frozen ice. Our first hike continues through the woods along Lake Itasca until we have to turn around when the trail stops due to the partially completed extension of a bike trail.
Hiking from headwaters through the woods
The Saturday evening Trailside Lantern hike follows a road that in winter is half cross country ski trail and half snow shoe trail. A park ranger indicated this year’s turnout was quite good, over 300 people in the first hour or so. We hike on the snowshoe trail and do better than most of the people on snow shoes. The lanterns, stars and white snow provide plenty of light to see by. As night progresses, the clear sky highlights a mass of stars all around us.
The trail side lantern hike begins, then the night deepens, and finally the stars come out.
Sunday morning we go to Mass at a small church in a small community nestled along a back road. Across the road is a country store serving Sunday brunch but when we stop by after church, all of the tables are occupied by groups who arrived by snowmobile. We go to our back up restaurant that we were planning for dinner, Lobos, a bar and grill not far from the park. We have eaten here before; it had burned down in a fire a few years back but re-opened in August 2019. We have lunch and take two pieces of pie back to our cabin for eating later.
Church at St. Mary’s in Two Inlets followed by lunch at Lobos
Sunday night we will go on the Twinkle Light hike and depart for home late Monday morning.
Sunday night
Next trip: San Francisco Bay Area for 20 days starting in mid-February.
Today is our last day. A full day in Budapest followed by a 3:15 AM departure from the Magni on Sunday morning. In order to see the much hyped Budapest skyline, we were up by 6 AM-and greeted by fog. Luckily we did not arrive at Budapest until 8 AM and the fog had lifted.
We found this orientation tour the best of the group. It included driving extensive portions of the historic districts, Freedom Square, and of course finished with a church.
Both the west (Buda) side and the east (Pest) side of the Danube had beautiful structures to gaze upon. We took our fill of photos from the ship before disembarking for a three hour combined driving and walking tour of Budapest.
There had been discussion of which city we would enjoy the most, Vienna or Budapest. Our vote would be for Budapest.
Similar to our other tours, our guide informed us of the history of Hungary and making the formerly two cities of Buda and Pest the new capital of Budapest . Both former cities are attractive, lively, and undergoing many improvements to infrastructure and buildings.
Central Market
After lunch we visited the Central Market, to us a super sized Reading Terminal in Philadelphia. Food stalls were jammed and the marketing of fresh food, souvenirs, and Hungarian made products went on fast and furious. We succumbed and purchased some postcards and a Christmas ornament for a ridiculously low price.
Central Market
We wrapped up the trip with a group toast in the lounge, an excellent meal, and gazing at the skyline as it was lit at night.
Chris Klejbuk and Ed Heimel travel adventure 
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