Author Archives: Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk, MN travel bloggers; ckeh72@comcast.net

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About Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk, MN travel bloggers; ckeh72@comcast.net

We are a husband and wife team living in St. Paul MN. Both of us retired by the end of 2012 and decided to travel and visit areas of the U.S. and Canada that we had not seen before. Most of the time we head out for 3-7 weeks; usually by driving, first in our 2001 Saturn and then when it hit 225,000 miles we traded it in for our 2016 Subaru Legacy . This travel blog is written to help us remember the great places we have visited and people we have met as well as to inform family and friends of our whereabouts. Contact us at ckeh72@comcast.net In 2013 we took the following trips: Trip 1-January--2 weeks in Florida to visit Orlando, St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Amelia Island. Trip 2-February and March-4 weeks in Hawaii, visiting the four major islands. Trip 3-March and April--several weeks in New Mexico visiting family followed by traveling cross-country to VA for VA Garden week. Trip 4-May and June--6-7 weeks driving to Las Vegas, the Sierra Nevada Mtns, Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia N.P, Salt Lake City, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Devils Tower and home. Trip 5-June- a quick trip to Boston to visit family. Trip 6-July and August-a 6-7 week trip to Calgary, Banff, Mt. Ranier and Mt. St. Helens, Olympic N.P., North Cascades N.P., Victoria, Vancouver, Whistler, Revelstoke, Jasper, Yoho,Whitefish lake, Theodore Roosevelt N.P. Trip 7-August and September- our daughters wedding in MD and returning home through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Trip 8-October and November-3-4 weeks in the Ozarks, Arkansas, Missouri. Trip 9-December and January 2014-Christmas in Santa Fe and New Years in Flagstaff and points in between. In 2014 we took the following trips: Trip 1--a week in Ely MN, most of it dog-sledding in late Feb. Trip 2--6 weeks in the Deep South including LA, MS, AL, GA and FL in March and April. Trip 3--a trip to Boston to visit family Trip 4--May and June houseboating on Lake Powell followed by Monument Valley, Arches and Canyonlands N.P, Black Canyon of the Gunnison N.P, San Juan Mtns of CO Trip 5--time spent in MN and the Midwest Trip 6--visiting Ontario, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec, the Adirondack Mtns of NY, our daughters wedding in CT and home through Philly and Ohio, 7 weeks in September and October. Trip 7--Southern California including Joshua Tree and Mojave Desert N.P, Anza Borrego Desert State Park, and then to Flagstaff for Thanskgiving for three weeks in November. In 2015, we took the following trips: Trip 1- 8 weeks traveling around FL in February and March, most of it on the panhandle, penninsula and Gulf Coast. Trips 2 and 4 to Boston in April and July. Trip 3 was to Isle Royale National Park in Lake Superior. Trip 5 was to southern MN. Trip 6 was to Voyageurs National Park and northwestern MN. Trip 7 was to the Great Smoky Mountains and neighboring areas. In 2016 Trip 1 was to Chicago IL. Trip 2 was to southwestern MN. Trip 3 was to Boston. Trip 4 was to southwestern United States. Trip 5 was to Lake Superior. Trip 6 was to Winona MN. Trip 7 to western Massachusetts (the Berkshire Mountains). Trip 8 to the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. Trip 9 to Boston and Rhode Island. In 2017, Trip 1 was to the Mississippi River Headwaters. Trip two will be a month long tour of Texas and another month traveling to and from Texas across the southern US. Image

2013, Trip Eight, Nov 5, The Ozarks

Branson, MO Tuesday November 5

Lennon Sisters at veterans memorial ceremony

Lennon Sisters at veterans memorial ceremony

Today’s rain and the projection for rain tomorrow has made us continue our more relaxed pace. Supposedly Branson Missouri has one of the largest veterans celebrations in the United States. It continues for a week and began today. One of the features is an opening ceremony here at the Welk resort. There is a replica Vietnam war memorial that has been constructed here each year for the last 17 years. We attended today’s opening ceremony. It was held inside because of the rain, the first time in 17 years. The hour-long ceremony was quite moving and included the singing of the Star-Spangled Banner by the Lennon Sisters.

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

Many of these celebrations here involve reunions of various military groups. At the Welk resort, Tony Orlando is the current main headliner. He was instrumental in starting the veterans celebration and for its continued success. Tony Orlando and Dawn was a hit group in the ’70s and their song “Tie a Yellow Ribbon ‘Round the Ole Oak Tree” hit number one and references a Vietnam vet who had been captured and imprisoned wondering if his old love still wanted to see him. Tony Orlando puts on a free show for vets during this week.

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

We went to Branson Landing afterwards. This is a shopping area along the White River. It resembles the area around the Gaithersburg Courtyard that we stayed at for the Sarahs’ wedding Sept. 1-only the hotel is a Hilton, not Marriott. One of the anchor stores is a Bass Pro Shop which has everything you might need for fishing, plus more. We looked over several pontoons but chose not to buy one. Lunch was at their restaurant, The Fish House, where we had fish and chips.

Branson Landing

Branson Landing

The hot tub at the pool complex was our afternoon destination. Dinner was back at the Chateau Resort using our last $25 certificate. It is decorated for Christmas and includes several elaborate gingerbread houses made by the restaurant staff. We had planned to see one of the three Christmas outdoor lighting displays but the rain postponed our trip. We now hope to do one on Thursday evening and one on Friday evening. More on those once we actually tour them.

Dinner at The  Chateau

Dinner at The Chateau

Chateau

Chateau

One of the gingerbread house  scenes

One of the gingerbread house scenes

Ed and Chris 10:30 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Nov. 3 and 4, The Ozarks

Branson, MO Nov. 3 and 4, Sunday and Monday

part of the Chateau grounds

part of the Chateau grounds

Our pace has slowed down a little. Sunday morning we did the 10:30 mass at Our Lady of the Lake Catholic Church. It holds 1300 people at a time. They welcome their “parishioners for a day”. Only about one-third of the people at mass belong to the parish, the rest of us are visitors or “parishioners for a day”.

the Chateau

the Chateau

We enjoyed Sunday brunch at the Château Hotel and resort. This was our treat, in advance, of attending the timeshare presentation on Monday morning. The meal was fine and the view was quite enjoyable. A pianist wearing a straw boater (look it up you younger folks) played soothing music in the background. We still have $25 of our certificate left to spend on a lunch or breakfast later in the week.

Table Rock Lake Dam upstream side

Table Rock Lake Dam upstream side

After the brunch, we drove to the Table Rock Lake Dam visitor center. The visitor center was built in 2010 and does an excellent job of education about the construction of the dam during 1954-1958. This is one of eight dams along the White River. The original purpose was flood control and power generation, recreation was an added purpose. There is a display devoted to the US Army Corps of Engineers in addition. The multiple visitor center hosts were extremely knowledgeable and interested in sharing that knowledge.

Table Rock Lake Dam Downstream side

Table Rock Lake Dam Downstream side

We drove around Branson a bit and were able to experience the traffic jams on highway 76, the main location for the theaters. After grocery shopping, it was back to the timeshare and a relaxing evening doing nothing much.

White river valley downstream from dam

White river valley downstream from dam

Monday morning, of course, was our long-awaited timeshare presentation. The property here is very nice, only five years old, and it appears that their other properties are equally elaborate. They could not meet our price point to entice us to buy, however. A 5 mile hike along Table Rock Lake in the state park was our afternoon exercise. This paved, handicapped accessible hike was a nice change from our recent trend of exposed tree roots, stones and boulders. Most of the trails in the park are closed due to hunting season.

a smooth hiking trail by the lake

a smooth hiking trail by the lake

Dinner was at Keeter Center at College of the Ozarks. This private, liberal arts college has 1500 students and was begun just over 100 years ago by a Presbyterian minister. Its nickname is “Hard Work U”. Students pay no tuition. They have to work 15 hours per week around campus and one 40 hour week during the summer. Their work and endowments cover the tuition cost. The Keeter Center has a restaurant and conference student staffed by the students. The students work in the restaurant, dairy, farm, print shop, etc.

We thought we had plenty of time to have dinner and make our evening show. When we arrived, we found there would be a 30 minute wait. One of us was concerned whether we had enough time but through judicious eating of dessert first (they sell their own ice cream at a kiosk in the lobby) and reading the menu prior to being seated we had plenty of time to make it to the show.

Tonight’s show was put on by the Baldknobbers. “Bald knobs” are hill tops without trees and evidently there was also a vigilante group by that name in the late 1800s after the Civil War. The vigilantes began as former Union sympathizers who tried to fight the lawlessness of the area after the Civil War. They grew, lost their focus and moral compass, and generated an opposing group. Animosities between individuals in the two groups continued for decades even as the groups officially went out of existence.

Baldknobbers show

Baldknobbers show

We knew none of this when we chose the show. The Baldknobbers were the original show in Branson so we chose them. They have been in operation for over 50 years with the third generation of the family now involved. The Smithsonian has a collection of their memorabilia.

The show had a 30 minute pre-show of comedy and singing. The jokes were so corny you had to laugh. The first half of the show was their normal country-style blend of comedy and singing. The second half was their Christmas show. We thoroughly enjoyed the performance.

Chris and I have decided we need to get to South Beach quickly though. We need to re-assure ourselves that the U.S. has citizens less than age 60, no make that age 70. Other than the college, we have not seen many younger people lately.

Ed and Chris Monday, Nov. 4 midnight

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2013 Trip Eight, Nov. 2, The Ozarks

Branson,MO Saturday Nov. 2

Fall colors Arkansas

Fall colors Arkansas

Driving to Devils Den

Driving to Devils Den

We have settled in for one week in Branson Missouri. We purchased a week at the Welk resort timeshare. So far it seems very nice, including two gas fireplaces. Laundry has been done, unpacking has been accomplished, we had our first meal of peanut butter and crackers. Tomorrow we will check out their pool and water play area. But, we did acquiesce and agreed to a two hour timeshare presentation in order to get $100 worth of meal vouchers at an expensive brunch on Sunday afternoon. It was at the Chateau restaurant which had come highly recommended to us.

Driving to Devils Den through Boston Mountains

Driving to Devils Den through Boston Mountains

Our drive from Van Buren Arkansas to Branson continued through the Ozark National Forest and Boston Mountains. I must say we have seen very few motorcyclists. I had expected to see quite a number.

Devils State Park- cairns are in everywhere

Devils State Park- cairns are in everywhere

Our first stop was at Devil’s Den State Park. (Every time I hear Devils Den, I think of Gettysburg and the ferocious fighting that occurred there during the Civil War.) The park was quite popular today. People were out hiking and enjoying the fall colors. People here and throughout MO and AR have been very pleasant. We took a hour-long hike and saw the den and twin falls. Twin falls were more like a trickle.

Twin Falls were a trickle

Twin Falls were a trickle

Devils Den State Park

Devils Den State Park

Devils Den State Park

Devils Den State Park

Chris had read about a barbecue joint in Fayetteville Arkansas. We took a chance on it. Chance due to unknown quality of the food and a chance due to this day being a home game for University of Arkansas which plays in Fayetteville. The crowd was manageable with both Hogs (Arkansas) and Tigers (Auburn) present. The food was okay with a very long wait even though the food was basic. You order from your booth via a phone and the staff brings the food to you. Worthwhile experience.

Penguin Ed's Bar B Q

Penguin Ed’s Bar B Q

Our drive to Branson brought us through Eureka Springs once again. This trip we drove through the historic downtown. Like Fayetteville, it too was very crowded. A warm fall day brings out the travelers. Sometime next week we expect to return and spend more time here.

Arkansas tree

Arkansas tree

We may be reaching the end of fall colors. It certainly can vary from area to area but we are seeing less dramatic color now in Missouri as we move north.

Nothing much else to report. Don’t forget to set your clocks back tonight.

Ed and Chris Nov. 2 11 pm (almost 10 pm)

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2013 trip Eight, Nov. 1

Fort Smith, Arkansas Friday Nov. 1

It is too bad our memories are so fickle. Otherwise at the end of this year we would have a treasure trove of interesting information. Unfortunately, we can only remember portions. Fort Smith National Historic Site will be adding a goodly number of tidbits to our memories. It covered a number of interesting themes and the displays and docent tour were well done.

Fort Smith today

Fort Smith today

Fort Smith’s first role was to keep the peace among Indian tribes. The native Osage Indians were being challenged by the newly arriving Cherokees. The U.S., in its great wisdom, abrogated (not for the first or last time) earlier treaties with Indian tribes in the Southeast. This first fort was built in 1817.

Pres. Andrew Jackson ignored laws and was instrumental in forcing Indian tribes from the Southeast (Cree, Cherokee, Choctaw, Chickasaw and Seminole) into “Indian Territory”. This original Indian Territory was the land of the Louisiana Purchase-which just happened to already be occupied by other Indian tribes. “Indian Territory” shrunk to become the Oklahoma Territory which also eventually was divided up and mainly given to settlers.

The Indian tribes were forcibly relocated and their march to Indian Territory became called the Trail of Tears. However, this is not the first trail of tears we have encountered. This first Fort Smith completed its job and its role was taken over by other forts further west.

Judge Parkers re-created court room

Judge Parkers re-created court room

A second Fort Smith was built in the late 1830s as people in this area played up a fear of Indian attack from the Indian Territory just across the river. It was deemed unnecessary by the military but built anyway with massive stone walls that were never needed. The second fort was used more as a supply depot during the Mexican War, the Gold Rush, and while trying to control settlers surging into Indian lands.

After the Civil War, the fort played an important role in the ongoing relations with Indian tribes. During the war, the Indians were as divided between North and South as U.S. citizens. The United States decided to take the stance of considering all Indian tribes as part of the defeated Confederacy. This resulted in new treaties that once again further eroded tribal rights and land.

During the next decades, Indian tribes were able to police their own citizens. However any actions involving non-Indians were handled by the federal government. The Fort Smith facility became the center for the federal courts from 1872 to 1896.

During this period, the federal courts here were charged with prosecuting all civil and criminal cases involving U.S. settlers in the Indian territories as well as this portion of Arkansas. The U.S. Marshall and his deputies were active, there was a great deal of lawlessness at the time. Some of it included fraud and corruption by the federal employees.

A Judge Parker, sometimes known as the Hanging Judge, cleaned up the court system. He was responsible for more hangings than any other judge but served longer than most and headed the most active court. He was responsible for cleaning up the court corruption and also was active in criminal rehabilitation efforts and in improving relations with Indian nations. Media attention to infamous trials and hangings of criminals gave him the hanging judge moniker. Not unlike many people in history that get tagged with one facet of their lives.

Miss Laura's

Miss Laura’s

A room at Miss Laura's

A room at Miss Laura’s

After spending time at the historic site, we visited a location of additional history. This was a row house along the river, one of the few left standing after a major flood. This was Miss Laura’s house, where very proper senior men and women gave a tour of Miss Laura’s house of prostitution. Prostitution was legal in the late 1800s here and the “inmates” (as the ladies were called) had monthly health checks and a license issued.

Along the Mt. Magazine Scenic Byway

Along the Mt. Magazine Scenic Byway

Ozark Forest overlook

Ozark Forest overlook

Education efforts completed, we were off for more scenery. We drove along Mount Magazine Scenic Byway to the state park almost at the top of Signal Hill, the highest point in Arkansas at 2,753 feet above sea level. We took a hike with a ranger but chose not to wait for dinner to be served at their restaurant with fabulous views. The sun is setting earlier and it reduces our driving time. We had to pass up the Pig Trail Scenic Byway too.

Looking toward Ouachita Mtns which run east to west

Looking toward Ouachita Mtns which run east to west

Chris and Ed at Mt. Magazine State Park

Chris and Ed at Mt. Magazine State Park

Ed and Chris Nov. 2 10 am

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2013 Trip Eight, The Ozarks, Oct. 31

Van Buren, AR Thursday Oct. 31

Bella Vista Wall of Honor

Bella Vista Wall of Honor

The morning continued the warm, rainy pattern from Wednesday but cleared up by noon. To be on the safe side, we spent the early parts of the day primarily inside. Our first stop was the Veteran’s Wall of Honor in Bella Vista. This was a project of the local VFW and American Legion.

Original Walton 5 and 10

Original Walton 5 and 10

Then it was on to downtown Bentonville. We visited the Sam Walton Museum housed in the first Walton’s 5 and 10 store. (He had managed Ben Franklin stores prior to this.) Sam’s life of beginning humbly but being driven to succeed and provide goods at rock bottom prices so people could buy more and live on less is repeated throughout the museum. The growth of Walmart (first store in Rogers, AR in 1962) is documented. The focus on being people driven is highlighted along with recent efforts for environmental and charitable actions. Whatever your thoughts about Walmart, it is a remarkable story.

We finished up the museum with spending money on another ice cream lunch-and a post card- at the soda fountain. Another stop was the 21c Hotel. It is a new, funky hotel that has been rated one of the top ten in the U.S.

Crystal Bridges Art Museum in Bentonville, AR

Crystal Bridges Art Museum in Bentonville, AR

"Kindred Spirits" by Asher Brown Durand at Crystal Bridges

“Kindred Spirits” by Asher Brown Durand at Crystal Bridges

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The afternoon was spent at Crystal Bridges. You may or may not have heard of this art museum. It is in Bentonville and opened on Nov. 11, 2011. The collection features American art. It is primarily a creation of Alice Walton (the daughter of Sam and Helen Walton) and the Walton Family Foundation. Admission is free, sponsored by Walmart. The design of the museum did not impress us, primarily due to the heavy use of concrete which to us overwhelmed the supposed theme of glass and wood.

"Dolly Parton" by Andy Warhol at Crystal Bridges

“Dolly Parton” by Andy Warhol at Crystal Bridges

"Man on Bench" sculpture by Duane Hanson at Crystal Bridges

“Man on Bench” sculpture by Duane Hanson at Crystal Bridges

The collection inside is remarkable and has received rave reviews. Crystal Bridges has purchased from other institutions and collectors famous works of art with a long list of multi million dollar items. People are coming to Bentonville from all over the U.S., probably the world, to view these masterpieces. As a totally free museum, one can return frequently. Non flash photography is allowed so we can include several of the artworks for your pleasure.

Outdoor sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Outdoor sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Along the sculpture trail at Crystal Bridges

Along the sculpture trail at Crystal Bridges

The grounds of the museum have several trails winding through the property with outdoor sculpture at numerous locations. The afternoon was relatively clear and we walked around most of the property.

"buckeyball" sculpture at Crystal Bridges

“buckeyball” sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Tonight we are staying in Van Buren, AR, in west-central AR close to the Oklahoma border. We will be visiting Fort Smith Friday.

Ed Heimel Chris Klejbuk Oct. 31 9 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 30, The Ozarks

Wednesday, Oct 30, Bella Vista, Arkansas

Fall colors were at the peak we have seen so far from Minnesota to Arkansas. But the day was foggy, misty, sprinkling and pouring rain so the good pix are few and far between. The weather also changed our plans a bit.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

We drove from Mountain View to Bella Vista via Eureka Springs. We had planned to spend some time exploring Eureka Springs; instead we only had lunch there, saw a video of the town’s history, and researched the availability of going on a van tour next week. We figure we will have time to spare in Branson and Eureka Springs is only an hour’s drive from Branson.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

The drive from Mountain View took us back through Searcy County, home of Leslie-which was mentioned in a prior blog. A brochure we had picked up revealed that Searcy County, per the 2010 census, had 8200 people. It also had 39 churches, none of them Jewish, Catholic, Mormon, or Muslim. That is about 200 people per church.

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

When we were at the Folk Art Center, the cooperage shop had an article about Leslie and how it was home in the early 1900s to the largest barrel making factory in America. When we went through the town, we did see a stave making factory. The population of Leslie went from about 1500 people in 1910 to 450 souls now.

So too Eureka Springs. It grew dramatically due to the springs found there and the claim that the springs had medicinal value. In 1879, the town grew from almost nothing to 10,000 people in less than 12 months. It became the fourth largest city in Arkansas at the time. Now the population is just over 2,100 and focuses on tourists. The rise and change of many small towns has been an interesting aspect of our trips.

There was a Road Scholar tour group of about 70 people from Houston staying at Mountain View also. They are probably learning more details than we did since there were seminars held for them. We have received their literature frequently. For now, we plan to continue on our own, setting our own pace and picking our own locations to stop.

The road to Bella Vista continued our pattern of hilly,curvy, two lane roads. Travel takes a while longer but with the fall colors it was enjoyable, even with the rain. After Eureka Springs we stopped at the Pea Ridge National
Military Park.

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Pea Ridge was the crucial Civil War battle that kept Missouri in the Union. As we learned at the Missouri State Capital, Missouri was a very divided state. It was a slave state that did not secede but was riven by fierce and divided loyalties with many battles and skirmishes during the Civil War.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

10,000 Union troops were chasing 16,000 Confederate troops-which included two regiments of Cherokee Indians. The Union troops included the largest percentage in any battle of non-English speaking soldiers, new immigrants to Missouri from Germany. When we were in Hermannn, MO, the tours there discussed how the Germans came here for the opportunity of freedom and were fierce defenders of the Union cause.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Several factors turned the battle for the Union. Early on, the two Confederate generals leading one arm of the Confederates were killed and the leaderless soldiers were without direction and did not participate in the battle. The Confederate primary general made a bold move to out flank the Union. Unfortunately his men had to march for three days to the desired location. They ended up arriving late and tired to the battle and ran low on ammunition because the supplies trailed too far behind the main column. The Union victory helped open the Mississippi River and allowed the Union to split the Confederacy in two. Most of the troops here moved onto battles east of the Mississippi for the duration of the war.

Given the weather, we did not walk the trails, but observed the exhibits, saw the movie, and drove around the battlefields.

We spent the night in Bella Vista with family of friends in the Twin Cities. Bella Vista is a town of 25,000 that has mushroomed in the last 20 years as a suburb of Bentonville. Previously more of a retirement community, it is experiencing the arrival of families and younger couples. We had dinner with our hosts at a long time restaurant in Rogers (a near by town), the Monte Ne Inn, with a great family style chicken dinner.

Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk Oct. 31 7 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 29, The Ozarks

Mountain View, AR, Tuesday Oct. 29

Hello Y’all.

cabins at Ozark Folk Center State Park

cabins at Ozark Folk Center State Park

This is day two from Mountain View Arkansas. We are staying at the Ozark Folk Center State Park in cabins they offer to the public. They’re quite comfortable, affordable, but have thin walls. The rain that was projected did arrive today. The temperatures were still warm, reaching the low 70s by late afternoon. This produced occasions of fog or mist in the air. This was probably the best day for fall colors so far.

Knife maker using railroad spikes

Knife maker using railroad spikes

Musicians

Musicians

The first morning activity was to visit the Folk Art Center. The state park is here to preserve and educate about Ozark Mountain folk arts. Some crafts are quite repetitious for us, such as weaving, blacksmithing, jewelry, art, etc.
At the copper craft area, we did discover that color is added to copper jewelry through the application of heat. The color produced is a function of the degree of heat applied to the metal. The colors vary as the temperature changes, somewhat similar to the colors produced at the hot pools in Yellowstone.

This late in the fall the number of musicians present is decreased. There was still one group playing throughout the day. At the knife center, the artisan was making knives from hard carbon railroad spikes. The candlemaker presented a detailed analysis of beeswax candles versus paraffin and stearic candles. Lunch was ice cream at the soda fountain in downtown Mountain View.

Blanchard Springs Cavern. you may need to tap to enlarge to understand its size

Blanchard Springs Cavern. you may need to tap to enlarge to understand its size

Our afternoon was spent at Blanchard Springs Cavern. The cavern is operated as part of the United States Forest Service. We have not been in a cave for decades and while I had it on my list, Chris was a little hesitant. But trooper that she is, we gave it a try. It was an excellent adventure.

This is 6 story tall column

This is 6 story tall column


Missouri and Arkansas are home to 5-6,000 caves due to the limestone geology. The rainfall here is heavier than some other caverns, like Carlsbad in New Mexico, so the formations are dramatic. Blanchard Springs has 11.8 miles of discovered caverns. The caves were only discovered in the mid 1950s with the more impressive caverns not found until the 1960s. It took years to explore sufficient areas and arrange funding to allow normal visitors to view the caverns. They even brought in an international lighting expert to design the lighting and keep it understated.

cave formation

cave formation

Three tours are offered. One, the longer one, is only offered during the summer months. Another one involves climbing through small openings, with hard hats, kneepads, lights,etc. provided. We passed on that one.

cave formation

cave formation

Our tour was 90 minutes and led by Dale from L.A. (Lower Arkansas). There were about a dozen of us and we were all amazed at the display. (Bats are living in other parts of the cavern, not the area we visited. Although we did observe the bat guano left behind from earlier times when this area was bat habitat.)

cave formation

cave formation

cave formation

cave formation

The cavern has features like a 6 story column, flowstone, pools,coral, and just plain lots of dramatic stalagmites and stalactites. Water is still seeping in so the mineral deposits are still occurring. The cavern is still home to a stream running through it. After the cavern tour, we visited Blanchard Springs which releases 10,000,000 gallons of water per day from the cavern.

A rainy fall afternoon

A rainy fall afternoon


Blanchard Springs

Blanchard Springs

Ed and Chris Oct. 29 10:15 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 28, The Ozarks

Monday, Oct. 28, Mountain View, AR

South central Missouri was mostly a mystery to us this morning. We drove from Lake of the Ozarks to Mountain View Arkansas. The fog was heavy until about 11 AM, and intermittent for another hour thereafter. We were able to observe that one highway was named the Fox Trotting Highway and we drove by one livestock auction house. The fog caused us to vacillate back-and-forth about which driving option to use. We had planned to take a ferry in northern Arkansas. However, it would not be running if the fog was heavy.

Ferry departs without us

Ferry departs without us

The "ferry"

The “ferry”

As we approached the cut off where we would decide on the option to take, we decided to take a chance to go with the ferry. We arrived at the ferry landing about three minutes after it had departed. There is only one ferry (run by the AR Dept. of Transportation) going back-and-forth and the option to double back was not realistic. So we waited. By this point, the sun was out and made for a pleasant day.

As the ferry returned, we noticed that it was not so much a ferry as a barge pushed by a tugboat. The barge appeared capable of holding 6 to 8 vehicles.
We made it safely across Bull Shoals Lake. The lake was another long lake created by a dam on the White River in northern Arkansas.

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Hiking at Buffalo National River

Hiking at Buffalo National River

We drove through rolling hills in Northern Arkansas. The fall colors were better here than they were in Missouri. Our second stop was the second US river designated as a national river. The only two rivers are the New River in West Virginia (which we saw in April) and the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas. At the Buffalo National River, we hiked to two overlooks. Canoeing was not an option. Now that we have seen the Buffalo, we have visited both of them.

Our drive to Mountain View occurred almost exclusively on two lane, curvy roads. Looking for something to eat, we stopped at Leslie, Arkansas. Motto: one of the best kept secrets in Arkansas. I think there is a good reason it is a best-kept secret. But the shopkeeper at the store we visited was extremely pleasant and informative. He helped us understand why all the restaurants in town were closed at the moment–it is Monday, they are only open for lunch, etc.

Driving a back road at Buffalo River

Driving a back road at Buffalo River

Our lodging is at the Ozark Folk Culture State Park. Tomorrow we will visit the arts and crafts village here and go to the Blanchard Springs Caverns run by the Forest Service. The caverns were on our plans for today but the weather was decent today and likely to be raining tomorrow so hiking seemed better than caverns today.

Beauty berries in the Ozarks

Beauty berries in the Ozarks

Dinner at the restaurant at the park was local food: ham and beans, chicken and dumplings, blueberry cobbler, turnip greens, fried okra and cornbread for $21.

Not real exciting but some days are like that.

Ed and Chris Oct. 28 9 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct 27, The Ozarks

Sunrise Beach, Oct.27th, Sunday

Early morning mist on Lake of the Ozarks

Early morning mist on Lake of the Ozarks

Another gorgeous fall day. We are enjoying it while we can. The middle of the week will probably have rain and thunderstorms.

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

It is Sunday. So we took things a little slower. After sleeping in a bit, we went to Lake of the Ozarks State Park. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, a little farther than Ha Ha Tonka. We spent about three hours hiking. There was not as much elevation gain as Saturday. The trails were just as rocky and challenging. There were noticeably fewer people hiking than on Saturday.

Lake of the Ozarks state park

Lake of the Ozarks state park

Boaters were on the lake enjoying the fall weather, boating and fishing. Other then a little hiking, there is not much else to do in the area. We are spending the balance of the afternoon enjoying the sun’s rays and the warm temperatures. Sunset will be in less than an hour. So while we enjoyed our time, we aren’t upset about packing up and leaving on Monday.

Relaxing at Sunset Inn Resort

Relaxing at Sunset Inn Resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Ed and Chris Oct 27 8 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 26, The Ozarks

Sunrise Beach, MO Oct 26

Morning view of Oct. 26

Morning view of Oct. 26

This was just a gorgeous fall day. Sunny skies. Temperatures in the 50s and 60s. The fall leaf colors are still muted. They are changing but it does not appear this fall will be a glorious leaf color year.

Cliffs of Ha Ha Tonka State Park

Cliffs of Ha Ha Tonka State Park

We spent most of the day at a Missouri State Park called Ha Ha Tonka. The name stands for laughing waters. This park has a natural bridge, a 500 foot long and 300 foot wide sinkhole, lake side cliffs of 250 feet, and a spring discharging 48,000,000 gallons of water per day. We hiked by, around, up, down, and over all the above.

Boulder Ridge trail

Boulder Ridge trail

The Spring-source of 48,000,000 gallons of water

The Spring-source of 48,000,000 gallons of water

Along the Island Trail

Along the Island Trail

We stumbled and bumbled along Boulder Ridge Trail. Aptly named, the uneven trail is full of stones, boulders, and exposed tree roots. The Island Trail circled a small island and passed by a rock neatly balanced on one edge. The Spring Trail took us to the visible source of the 48 million gallon discharge of clear, fast flowing water. The Colosseum (their spelling) Trail took us down into the center of the sinkhole and then up and around the surrounding bluffs.

Castle ruins

Castle ruins


Castle ruins

Castle ruins


Oh, and the castle ruins. A wealthy Kansas City man acquired 5000 acres and began construction of a castle like home. His death in 1905, one of the state’s first automobile deaths, delayed the completion of the home by his sons until the 1920s. Unfortunately, a fire in 1942 destroyed the interior of the building, leaving only the stone walls standing. We hiked around the castle ruins, by the water tower and carriage house, both gutted also.

Mothers' Shrine

Mothers’ Shrine

Before church we visited the Mother’s Shrine, an outdoor amphitheater established by the local Catholic Church to seat 6,000 people for Mass during the summer months. They have erected a statue, fountains, and plaques honoring all mothers. It did not take long to see but since it was attached to the church, we made the effort to visit it.

We had asked a woman greeting people at church for dinner recommendations. We took her advice and went to the “Chances R” restaurant. It had all the ambience of a VFW hall, complete with a bar area that allowed smoking and the same level of high quality furniture. But the food was great and the prices very reasonable. Judging by the banter between the customers and the servers, all of the locals go here. One of the beverage options was buttermilk, my Dad would have loved it. We did not see a wine list, sorry Kathy.

So, a full day. Tomorrow is forecast to be equally pleasant.

Ha Ha Tonka bluffs with castle ruins at very top

Ha Ha Tonka bluffs with castle ruins at very top


View during hike

View during hike

Ed and Chris Oct 26 9:30 pm

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