Author Archives: Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk, MN travel bloggers; ckeh72@comcast.net

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About Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk, MN travel bloggers; ckeh72@comcast.net

We are a husband and wife team living in St. Paul MN. Both of us retired by the end of 2012 and decided to travel and visit areas of the U.S. and Canada that we had not seen before. Most of the time we head out for 3-7 weeks; usually by driving, first in our 2001 Saturn and then when it hit 225,000 miles we traded it in for our 2016 Subaru Legacy . This travel blog is written to help us remember the great places we have visited and people we have met as well as to inform family and friends of our whereabouts. Contact us at ckeh72@comcast.net In 2013 we took the following trips: Trip 1-January--2 weeks in Florida to visit Orlando, St. Augustine, Jacksonville, Amelia Island. Trip 2-February and March-4 weeks in Hawaii, visiting the four major islands. Trip 3-March and April--several weeks in New Mexico visiting family followed by traveling cross-country to VA for VA Garden week. Trip 4-May and June--6-7 weeks driving to Las Vegas, the Sierra Nevada Mtns, Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia N.P, Salt Lake City, Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Devils Tower and home. Trip 5-June- a quick trip to Boston to visit family. Trip 6-July and August-a 6-7 week trip to Calgary, Banff, Mt. Ranier and Mt. St. Helens, Olympic N.P., North Cascades N.P., Victoria, Vancouver, Whistler, Revelstoke, Jasper, Yoho,Whitefish lake, Theodore Roosevelt N.P. Trip 7-August and September- our daughters wedding in MD and returning home through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Trip 8-October and November-3-4 weeks in the Ozarks, Arkansas, Missouri. Trip 9-December and January 2014-Christmas in Santa Fe and New Years in Flagstaff and points in between. In 2014 we took the following trips: Trip 1--a week in Ely MN, most of it dog-sledding in late Feb. Trip 2--6 weeks in the Deep South including LA, MS, AL, GA and FL in March and April. Trip 3--a trip to Boston to visit family Trip 4--May and June houseboating on Lake Powell followed by Monument Valley, Arches and Canyonlands N.P, Black Canyon of the Gunnison N.P, San Juan Mtns of CO Trip 5--time spent in MN and the Midwest Trip 6--visiting Ontario, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec, the Adirondack Mtns of NY, our daughters wedding in CT and home through Philly and Ohio, 7 weeks in September and October. Trip 7--Southern California including Joshua Tree and Mojave Desert N.P, Anza Borrego Desert State Park, and then to Flagstaff for Thanskgiving for three weeks in November. In 2015, we took the following trips: Trip 1- 8 weeks traveling around FL in February and March, most of it on the panhandle, penninsula and Gulf Coast. Trips 2 and 4 to Boston in April and July. Trip 3 was to Isle Royale National Park in Lake Superior. Trip 5 was to southern MN. Trip 6 was to Voyageurs National Park and northwestern MN. Trip 7 was to the Great Smoky Mountains and neighboring areas. In 2016 Trip 1 was to Chicago IL. Trip 2 was to southwestern MN. Trip 3 was to Boston. Trip 4 was to southwestern United States. Trip 5 was to Lake Superior. Trip 6 was to Winona MN. Trip 7 to western Massachusetts (the Berkshire Mountains). Trip 8 to the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. Trip 9 to Boston and Rhode Island. In 2017, Trip 1 was to the Mississippi River Headwaters. Trip two will be a month long tour of Texas and another month traveling to and from Texas across the southern US. Image

2014 Trip Two, March 9, Deep South

Vicksburg, MS Sunday March 9

As “professional travelers” we work on Sundays. Not so much for many of the places we wanted to see or local restaurants to dine in. This impacted on our day’s options.

We left Memphis after church and breakfast and headed for Mississippi. U.S.Route 61 in this area was described in one of the resources we used as “Not much to write home about”. The source was correct and so we won’t. The weather was overcast and foggy but the snow has completely disappeared. I think we have turned the corner. Green fields are starting to pop up. The weather is warm; time to put the fleece and heavy socks away, break out the windbreakers and light shoes.

Route 61 was our major road all day long. It is publicized as the part of the “Blues Trail”; a series of historical markers detail significant places and times in the lives of numerous blues musicians who are from Mississippi. Clarksdale MS was planned to be our first, and brief, stop.

Cutrer Mansion in Clarksdale, Tennessee Williams knew the family here well.

Cutrer Mansion in Clarksdale, Tennessee Williams knew the family here well.

Tennessee Williams spent most of his childhood here. Like Hannibal and Sam Clemens, many people he encountered in his childhood turned up later in his novels. Clarksdale is also noted as one of many towns that had an important role to play in the development of the blues. But the town sidewalks were rolled up tight, few people about, and many, many storefronts boarded up. It was depressing and we just kept moving on.

We had lunch in Cleveland MS. Downtown was deserted. Local restaurant options were closed. Luckily Cleveland is the home of Delta State University so chain restaurant options were available. We chose Back Yard Burgers, a regional chain. Good food, but the money spent on interior aesthetics must have been miniscule.

B.B. King museum in Indianola MS

B.B. King museum in Indianola MS

Indianola MS was our major stop of the day. Getting there continued the drive through farm lands that looked rich and fertile. Our destination was the B.B. King Museum. It was excellently done and we spent several hours enjoying the displays.

In the B.B. King Museum

In the B.B. King Museum

The museum presents many aspects of B.B.Kings life. One theme I am sure we will experience frequently in the first part of this trip is the change in the U.S. from the brutal segregation actions and policies of the first half, or more, of the 20th century to the much improved current status. It is difficult to read the displays describing the lynchings, murders, almost non-existent schools for blacks, etc. Then you realize you are standing in the heart of that part of the country.

BB King was born Riley B King and learned his musical skills from a variety of self taught sources. The displays describe the other musical influences on him and how he grew from playing the “Chitlin Circuit” of African-American clubs in the late 1940s and early 50s to becoming a world renowned blues musician and ambassador of American music by the end of the 70s.

Kermit the Frog in Leland MS

Kermit the Frog in Leland MS

After Indianola, we made a quick stop in Leland MS. Leland is the birthplace of Jim Henson, creator of the Muppets. Leland does not have a major Muppet museum but the visitor’s center (closed on Sundays) does have a logo of Kermit the Frog on the building.

Our B and B in Vicksburg

Our B and B in Vicksburg

Vicksburg is our home for the next two nights and the scene of the first flowers we have observed.

FLOWERS

FLOWERS

Ed and Chris Vicksburg 10:30 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 8, Deep South

Saturday March 8, Memphis TN

Memphis is not on our tour schedule for 2014, we plan to visit longer in 2015. Today Memphis just fits nicely into our travel schedule en route from Ste Genevieve, MO to Vicksburg, MS.

Our B and B in Ste Genevieve, Inn Ste Gemme Beauvais, offered an excellent breakfast this morning. Last night we chose from among the eight entree choices so our breakfast could be ready for us this AM. I had the fruit (baked apple slices nicely spiced), an oatmeal that was not Quaker Oats from the box, French toast stuffed with a cream cheese and spices combination and topped with a fruit sauce, bacon, OJ, and milk-with refills. Chris had a home made sweet bread, 3 cheese quiche with spinach, bacon, OJ, and coffee. Very nicely done.

Chandelier in B and B

Chandelier in B and B

We were on the third floor of the B and B. It goes back to 1848 and is the oldest continuously operated B and B in MO. Unfortunately, it had a fire several years ago but has been restored. The beautiful chandelier was saved and still hangs in the dining room. Railroad tracks run behind it but the trains did not wake us from our sleep.

Bolduc House front-fence kept animals out

Bolduc House front-fence kept animals out

After breakfast we toured the Bolduc House built around 1792. This building and several others in town feature vertical log construction, instead of the usual horizontal construction process. This process stems from French Normandy and Ste Genevieve has the most (and best) examples of this rare construction style.

Vertical log construction

Vertical log construction

Many of the earliest settlers came from Quebec. The rich farm land bottoms along the Mississippi River attracted them. The hills just west of town have been mined for lead since the 1720s and were another drawing card. Bolduc was both a mine owner and a merchant. The last Bolduc family member died in the 1940s and the building and lands were purchased for historical display.

Front porch of Bolduc House

Front porch of Bolduc House

Besides being a historical town, Ste Genevieve is the site of a lime mine and manufacturing facility. We were told that at times the white lime dust provides a thin coating on stationary objects. We were spared the opportunity to observe this. Mining tunnels are under the town and air shafts periodically stick out of the ground.

The morning was turning drizzly and blustery so we headed over to IL to continue our drive along the river. We took a ferry instead of driving miles to a bridge. On the way to the ferry we passed the three mile long levee and dike. The original town site was flooded in the 1785 and the current site is located on higher ground. This did not prevent floods in 1973, 1993, and 1995 from doing great damage so a levee system was finally constructed. Now they just worry about flash floods from the creeks leading to the Mississippi.

Ste Genevieve-Modoc ferry

Ste Genevieve-Modoc ferry

The Ste Genevieve-Modoc ferry seemed even less sturdy than the one we took over Bull Shoals Lake in Arkansas last fall. We did make it across the mighty Mississippi without incident, though. On the IL side, we drove south along river flatlands edging the timeworn hills of the Shawnee National Forest.

We passed through Chester IL. This town is the birthplace of the cartoon character “Popeye” and the town is in the process of creating a trail with several statutes. Since this is river territory, Chester is one of many areas where barges load and unload their cargo onto trucks or trains.

Our initial thoughts had been to drive back roads all the way to Memphis. But the day was still gray and we switched back to the MO side and Interstated (a word??) it most of the way to Memphis. At the AR welcome center on I-55, the staff person informed us that the Interstate was closed completely to southbound traffic down the road and gave us directions to a detour.

So we were back on two lane roads, US 61 again, and visited more small towns. Snow has been covering about 50% of the fields and the warm weather has created fog banks as the snow has been melting and evaporating. Fields not covered in snow are wet or under water.

Once back on I-55, we came upon a major back-up for northbound traffic. The backlog was for miles and hundreds of trucks were moving inch by inch. Finally we reached the Memphis area and the snow disappeared completely.

Dinner tonight was supposed to be at a barbecue place we had researched before we left town. It did not take reservations. I called when we arrived to inquire as to the best time to arrive to avoid long lines. But best laid plans… It was an hour wait when we got there. We were hungry so we decided to try another place. Another hour wait. Third time was a charm, no wait, good food. Well at least downtown Memphis is not deserted.

Ed and Chris 9:15 pm before daylight savings time kicks in

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2014 Trip Two, March 7, Deep South

Ste. Genevieve, MO Friday March 7

While not exhaustive and certainly not in-depth, this early part of the trip is giving us a flavor of Mississippi River towns. They share a common link of early rise due to water power and river and railraod transportation. Transportation led to the development of industry. Early fortunes were made and lost. As time and circumstances passed, the cities rose or fell according to local temperament and opportunities for change.

While the Illinois cities of Moline, East Moline, ad Rock Island are larger than the later towns we visited and seem to have more large employers, the housing stock and towns seemed more run-down and depressing.

A Grand Ave house in Keokuk IA

A Grand Ave house in Keokuk IA

Keokuk IA (about 10,000 people) came across as a reasonably suitable town in comparison. Homes are still small and older. Their upscale street, Grand Avenue, has grandiose homes but many looked in need of re-furbishing. Maby it is just that time of the year when everything looks gray. It has one large employer we noticed but it had a 10 month lockout a few years ago.

Visitor center in Quincy IL

Visitor center in Quincy IL

Quincy IL (40,000) was one step up. Still not glamorous (sorry Chammber of Commerce), it boasts of a large heritage of architecturally significant homes. However, the architecture museum we planned to visit closed 6 months ago due to a lack of funds.

Interior of visitor  center

Interior of visitor center

We stopped at the visitor’s center housed in a mansion built in 1900 and styled after Moorish architecture the owner grew fond of during a two year stint abroad. His tenure here was less than 15 years. The property was then sold and to be used as a railroad staging area. That never came to fruition and like many large mansions, passed through numerous owners and periods of neglect before preservationists and infusions of large sums of taxpayer funds restored it.

one of the buildings at 16th and Maine in Quincy,IL

one of the buildings at 16th and Maine in Quincy,IL

The visitor’s center had a driving tour of several types of architecturally significant homes so we whiled away some time viewing old Quincy. National Geographic named the corner of 16th and Maine as “one of the most architecturally significant corners in the U.S.” Nice but without further information, I can not tell you why. The four buildings did not overwhelm me.

A different style of home in Quincy

A different style of home in Quincy

Lunch was at a restaurant overlooking the Mississippi. After the lock and dam at Keokuk, the portions of the river we could see had open water in the main channel.

A view of the Mississippi River

A view of the Mississippi River

As we drove to Hannibal MO from Quincy, the farm fields were flat. River flooding, if not for the Corps of Engineers, would inundate land for many miles. I am sure that is how the land became fertile in the first place. We passed towns so small there wasn’t even a bar.

Hannibal is Mark Twain on steroids. It is Huck this, Tom that and a few Beckys tossed in here and there. AAA rated the Mark Twain boyhood home (reconstruction) museum as a must see. We spent time perusing the multiple buildings and the museum’s gallery recap of Twain’s novels. We avoided the cave, the trolley, the lighthouse (not sure why that is here), the model trains, etc. March is not a peak tourist time here either but it was open and we enjoyed it. I did wonder if his books are still being covered in schools today.

Mark Twain boyhood home,Hannibal MO

Mark Twain boyhood home,Hannibal MO

As we drove to Ste. Genevieve MO for the evening, the snow disappeared-until we actually got to the town. Then there was snow. I guess it snowed last weekend and it is still around. Warmer temperatures are here and I doubt the snow will be here after the weekend.

Tourist literature states that Ste. Genevieve is the first town established west of the Mississippi-except we all know of Spanish towns in Texas and New Mexico that predate the 1740 French founding of this town. It is supposed to have the highest concentration of French colonial buildings in the U.S. More about Ste. Genevieve tomorrow.

Jerry at the Anvil  Saloon, Ste Genevieve, MO

Jerry at the Anvil Saloon, Ste Genevieve, MO

Dinner was at the Anvil Saloon located in a buidling from 1855 and used as a saloon for the vast majority of its life. The bartender reminded me of my Dad’s outgoing personality with customers.

Ed and Chris 10:30 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 6, Deep South

March 6, Keokuk IA

We spend much of the day seeing Green and Yellow. Green and yellow are the colors of the John Deere Company.

We toured the combine assembly plant in East Moline, IL. This is the largest combine manufacturing facility in the world. There are 73 acres under roof in this facility. John Deere has a major presence in this area and in the IA-IL region with numerous manufacturing plants around here to complement the overseas plants in Brazil, India, China and Germany.

John Deere combine and corn header

John Deere combine and corn header

John Deere was a blacksmith originally from Vermont. He manufactured the first steel plow back around 1830. A steel plow as smoother than the previous iron ones. Because of this smoothness, dirt did not adhere to the plow and plowing was faster and easier. From this humble beginning arose the manufacturing giant of today. Deere says almost half of the food harvested in the world is done with Deere products.

Our one and a half hour tour began at 8 AM. Chris was the only female. It seemed like all of the others were young men who farmed but we never did verify that. The tour is via a motorized tram and the guides are retired Deere employees. The tram takes you all over the facility and you observe the entire assembly and painting process. No pictures allowed on the tour.

Side view of combine

Side view of combine

Combines are not manufactured until an order has been placed. It takes 10-14 days to manufacture the combine. The plant operates 24 hours a day. For nine months of the year, there are shifts 7 days per week. For three months of the year, there are shifts 5 days per week. Deere does not reveal how many combines it makes but obviously it is quite a few.

In the visitor area is a combine with a corn header. The header or front attachment changes depending if you are harvesting corn, soybeans, rice, wheat, etc. The combine then separates the grain from the stalk and grinds up the stalk material. The combine on display cost $500,000. The corn header was $200,000.

WWI era Deere tractor

WWI era Deere tractor

From the factory tour we visited the Deere World Headquarters where a few more implements were on display. Then we headed to downtown Moline and visited the John Deere Pavilion. This is the centerpiece of a downtown revitalization project on land that previously was used as a manufacturing facility.

Don't hire Ed to operate your equipment

Don’t hire Ed to operate your equipment

The exhibits here discussed the history of the company with more displays. One interactive area allows you to operate several Deere construction machines. I was totally incompetent. It renewed my appreciation for the Public Works employees I used to work with and supervise decades ago.

automatic lawn mower

automatic lawn mower

The displays included a robotic grass mower which mows your yard automatically, a automatic tractor for agricultural work,and a 6 legged robotic tree cutter. None of these are on the market in the US but it demonstrates their commitment to research and improvement.

Lunch at Logamarcino's

Lunch at Logamarcino’s

We walked a few blocks to an ice cream/candy/sandwich shop in downtown Moline that has been in business for over 100 years. Besides testing their malts and shakes (very good), we had excellent soup (red pepper Gouda bisque) and sandwiches. We have been enjoying great soups lately; with the turkey/bacon/cheese bisque at the Grand Ely Lodge and the crab bisque yesterday with Shannon and Adam.

After lunch it was on to Nauvoo, IL. This town of just over 1100 souls (per the fantastic counting work of the U.S. Census Bureau) was once the second largest city in Illinois. As you may know, the vast majority of the Mormons left Nauvoo beginning in 1846 for Utah after founder Joseph Smith and his brother were killed by a mob in a local jail.

Nauvoo LDS temple

Nauvoo LDS temple

I am not going to try to cover the multitude of opinions and historical facts on this but certainly the locals disliked the Mormon united action that gave them control of the town. Their conservative beliefs were not popular in the frontier area, nor were their armed militia entirely passive either. In any event, Nauvoo became a much smaller town.

Statute of Joseph Smith and Brigham Young looking west across the Mississippi

Statute of Joseph Smith and Brigham Young looking west across the Mississippi

Today the old area is being re-constructed and the Church of the Latter Day Saints maintains a visitors center and gives tours of re-constructed buildings to demonstrate life as it was in the mid-1800s. We took in a video, read some historic accounts of the persecution and pilgrimage to Utah, etc.

As we were leaving, one of the docents invited us to the show this evening, titled “Rendezvous in Old Nauvoo”. So we came back for the hour long show at 7 pm. 35 cast members entertained the 25 of us in the audience. (Winter is not a big tourist time in Nauvoo. Summer must be better as there are numerous bus parking lots.) Chris and I were probably the only dis-interested audience members.

Some of the actors in the skit.

Some of the actors in the skit.

The show was a skit, maybe more of a morality play, depicting the persecution of the good people of Nauvoo and their decision to willingly take the 1300 mile “hike” to Utah. It was a different experience than coming back to the hotel and going for a swim.

We are starting to see patches of earth without snow on it. Friday-warmth???

Ed and Chris 11:20 pm

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2014 Trip Two, March 5,Deep South

Wednesday, March 5, East Moline, IL

Basic trip outline for Deep South Trip; March - April 2014

Basic trip outline for Deep South Trip; March – April 2014

This journey to the Deep South should bring us from the frigid tundra to warm sand beaches. But not yet. The cold continues with blowing snow in southern MN and northern IA and again here around Moline.

Ed, Chris, Adam, Shannon

Ed, Chris, Adam, Shannon

The only warmth we saw today was from my niece Shannon and her husband Adam when we visited them for lunch in Mason City. Adam gave us a tour of the sprawling and expanding facility for their company, The Dimensional Group. Then they treated us to lunch in downtown Mason City which is home to the last Frank Lloyd Wright designed hotel and the site of the last bank robbed by John Dillinger. The bank was also designed by Wright.

City National  Bank, Mason City IA

City National Bank, Mason City IA

The lunch was tasty and filling and we thought we would pass on dinner. However, tonight the hotel had their manager’s complimentary dinner; hamburgers, baked beans, salad and butterscotch pudding. Not as tasty as lunch but we did not want the hotel to think we did not appreciate their efforts so we dined again.

For those of you unaware of the ending to Trip One, our car did not start Sunday morning in Ely MN despite starting each of the three previous days. Repeated attempts to start/jump the car were unsuccessful and destroyed the starter. We finally arrived home Tuesday night, instead of Sunday night, after a new starter was ordered, delivered, and installed. We spent Tuesday night re-organizing for this trip and made it out of town Wednesday morning by 10.

The Deep South journey will explore areas we have never experienced before (except for South Beach). This trip will probably involve more B and B’s than all of the other trips combined. We thought it might help us experience the flavor of the south.

Ed and Chris 3/5/14 8:15 pm

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2014 Trip One, March 2, Ely Dogsledding

Sunday March 2, Ely MN

The adventure continues. Today was to be our drive back home day. But the car could not deal with another frigid night. It would not start and in the process of trying to jump it, we seemed to have damaged something. Tony’s Towing (a AAA affiliate) came and towed the Saturn to a local shop whose mechanic will be in Monday morning at 8.

Chris,  Colin, Greg, and Ed

Chris, Colin, Greg, and Ed

Tony’s Towing also dropped us off at the Grand Ely Lodge, a place recommended by the Wintergreen people. It has a pool, whirlpool, sauna, and restaurant on site. Our room overlooks Lake Sagawa.

So despite the proactive steps of dumping a can of Heet in the gas tank, having the car serviced before the trip, a new battery in December, and starting, and running, the car Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, Mother Nature (or maybe Ol’ Man Winter) won out.

Video below shows what happens to hot water when it meets cold air.

The car belonging to one of the guides had to be jumped also. The WI women were able to start their car and make it up the hill but within a mile or so got a flat tire. We believe the unsuccessful effort Thursday to make it up the hill and the tire spinning that occurred then contributed to the flat tire. Tony’s Towing put their doughnut spare on the car and they drove into town where it should have been possible to repair/replace the tire.

We will discover tomorrow what the damage is, how soon it can be fixed, and how much it will cost. But we remain in good spirits and look forward to trip 2 starting on Wednesday.

Ed and Chris 8:15 pm

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2014 Trip One, March 1, Ely Dog Sledding

Ely Minnesota
Saturday March 1, 2014

The day started with kennel care (feeding the dogs and cleaning the kennel area) at 7:40 AM with the temperature in the mid minus twenties. Let me just say that there are six people on this journey. Only one went to kennel care this AM and it was not a female.

Colin fed us another wonderful meal of breakfast burritos with bacon, eggs, spinach, salsa, cheese, etc. We packed up for a day of dog sledding. Winds were to hit the high teens and temperatures to peak out at minus six. Who knows what reality was.

Greg hitching Isis and Stoney.

Greg hitching Isis and Stoney.

We, in general, kept warm. The wisdom of dressing in layers with the wicking bottom layer, fleece or wool next layer with the outer wind protective shell has worked fine. We have been using hand and foot warmers also though. I have not seen anything to keep the icicles from forming on my eyelashes.

Chris and Ed and our team

Chris and Ed and our team

We left the lodge a little after ten. Today Chris and I were in the lead sled. We had been in position two yesterday. We made a lunch stop from 1:30 to 2:15 and were back to the lodge at 4 pm. In between were grand times of riding the sled through the forest and on White Iron Lake. Even now, Chris and I say “We did it” with a real sense of satisfaction and achievement.

Up close and personal

Up close and personal

Lunch was at the “base camp”. This was a tented enclosure with a wood stove to heat up lunch. The dogs remained outside. Lunch was quesadillas and brats and ramen noodles.

Lunch at base camp

Lunch at base camp

The lake ride is smoother but windy with deep, loose snow on either side of the trail. The wind has blown over portions of the trail making the tree branches Greg stuck in the snow a few days ago invaluable guideposts. The trail is not perfectly smooth, so you lurch from side to side and periodically worry about tipping over.

Lunch time

Lunch time

In the woods, we are protected from the wind but face (literally) tree branches, or sharp corners that might tip you or jam you into a tree with a sudden stop. When you are jammed, and it does happen, you need to carefully pull/push/tug at the sled to unjam it without letting the dogs pull it out of your control and dumping you in the snow. At that point, you yell “Loose Sled” and hope the guide in front of you can stop it or that your team stops when it pulls up to the sled in front of you.

The woods also has hills. Up where you help to push the sled. Down where you ride the brake HARD to keep control and not run over the dogs. The trail is not much wider than the sled, making it hard to get real purchase in the snow to push the sled when needed.

This makes the experience seem hard. But hard is not correct term. It was a challenge that we enjoyed. It pushed us out of our comfort zone but we succeeded. The thrill was constant. The scenery beautiful. The weather freaking cold but dealt with.

Coming onto the  lake from the woods

Coming onto the lake from the woods

We are thankful to our guides, Colin and Greg, who broke the trail, chased loose sleds, encouraged us, and made wise decisions in times of uncertainty. They shepherded us through thick and thin; they had in-depth and wide-ranging knowledge and skills; They cooked great breakfasts and on trail lunches. Finally, we thank them for their for their camaraderie.

Our dogs were great. Isis and Stoney as leads, Lomi as middle, and Yukon and Pecan as wheels. They pulled the sled, the two of us, and some gear. The dogs may have nipped at each other, but they were affectionate and friendly to us. Petting them put them in paroxysms of joy.

The team resting at lunch time

The team resting at lunch time

The evening meal was enchiladas, salad and corn bread. Our dessert was a cake shaped like an igloo-thanks to Ted the chef.
After dinner, the six of us received our “Dogsled Diploma” attesting to our outstanding accomplishment.

Finally, the six of us watched the video “North to the Pole”. I probably have not said enough about Wintergreen. This place was founded by Paul and Susan Schurke. In March and April of 1986, Paul Schurke and Will Steger (of Ely MN) led an 8 person team to the North Pole. This was the first dog sled expedition to travel without resupply to the North Pole since Robert Peary did it in 1909.

These people, including Ann Bancroft of MN, faced excruciating conditions. Two members had to drop out due to injuries before actually making the North Pole. The video put this expedition in clear focus for us. This lodge, Wintergreen, is run by Paul and Susan Schurke. Paul was one of the two leaders of the 1986 effort and continues to lead various Arctic explorations to this day.

We met Sue again this afternoon and she discussed how she hand-made the garments worn by the team members on this expedition. Their first child was less than a year old when the expedition took off. Sue’s patterns formed the basis for a clothing company that has made the rental outfits Chris and I had on during the trip.

So, yes this trip was fantastic in many ways. I am sure I have left numerous items out. But I also specifically want to thank Sarah, Eileen, Rebecca and Patty for the great times we shared. May your further travels be as precious in your memory as this one.

Ed and Chris 3/1/14 10:15 pm
-18 degrees and dropping

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2014 Trip One, Feb 28, Ely Dog Sledding

I hope this is not duplicative but the original entry did not seem to post correctly.

Friday Feb. 28, Ely MN
At Wintergreen Dog Sledding Lodge

Northern lights Thursday night as seen by the camera. Naked eye was not quite as successful in capturing the view.

Northern lights Thursday night as seen by the camera. Naked eye was not quite as successful in capturing the view.

Well a little more mixed day. We slept in given the exercise and energy used Thursday so we passed on the dog feeding and kennel cleaning this morning.

Colin's sled dog keeping Ed company Thursday night while he works on the blog.

Colin’s sled dog keeping Ed company Thursday night while he works on the blog.

After a tasty and filling breakfast, we were offered the opportunity to choose between two options. Dog sledding or snowshoeing/cross country skiing to the Hegman Lake Indian pictographs. The rock wall overlooking North Hegman Lake has a panel of rock art images. The group chose the pictographs since we still have one day left for dog sledding.

The plan was to drive to the trailhead and then traverse the trail to the site, about 2.5 miles away, have lunch and then return to the trailhead and drive back to Wintergreen. After some car issues, we piled into a Suburban and headed out with one guide. We picked up one of the puppies to take along with us.

The forest trail to Hegman Lake.

The forest trail to Hegman Lake.

Chris and I chose snow shoeing. After we were on the first lake for a while, we realized the terrain and distance were challenging and several of us were not positive of our ability to make the entire round trip successfully.

Chris  and  Ed on the trail.

Chris and Ed on the trail.

So, three of us (Chris and Ed included) returned to the trailhead and waited for the second guide to pick us up. I know not the distance or the time we were out but we were plenty tired by the time we returned to the trailhead. It was a wise, although disappointing, decision for us. We returned to the lodge a little after three.

The other four continued on. They had a hot meal with a fire started by the guide. However, while getting close to the final destination, two of the party stepped into hidden pools of icy slush. While only portions of their arm and hands got wet, it was enough to say turn around and head back to avoid any hypothermia issues. Their boots were well made and successfully kept their feet dry. I think they returned to the lodge around 4:30 pm.

Hegman  Lake

Hegman Lake

Slush might seem counter intuitive when you are dealing with weeks of below zero weather. However, the heavy snow depth creates pressure on the ice to form small cracks which allows lake water to come up on top of the ice and under the snow. The heavy snow acts as an insulator and this slush does not fully re-freeze even though the lake ice depth is over two feet deep. The slush level can be quite deep and is hidden beneath the pristine new snow.

I had experienced this type of slush Thursday afternoon when stepping off the trail and was luckily able to pull out of it before any water ended up in my boot.

So the group of four did not make it to the pictographs but certainly got a greater period of exercise. The sun also came out later in the afternoon so it was a pleasant hike. The temps today reached almost 10 degrees I believe.

Sunset on White Iron  Lake

Sunset on White Iron Lake

Dinner was beef stroganoff. As mentioned in an earlier post, the group gets along quite well. Our evenings are spent in friendly discussion and tonight we also pursued the topic of the PolyMet mining proposal.

The temp tonight goes back down to about -20 and the high tomorrow should be about -9 with mostly sunny skies and winds in the 8-14 mph range.

Tomorrow more dog sledding. Sunday we head back to St. Paul.

Ed and Chris 10:30 pm

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2014 Trip One Ely Feb. 27th

Thursday, Feb 27, 2014 Ely MN

Oh a glorious day. Not to say there weren’t a few bumps-literally-along the way though. Not a lot of pix. our job today was to: stay on the sled, ride the brake as needed, and stay warm. With the camera tucked away, with stops that were brief and of uncertain length, and with temps well below zero, I wasn’t about to unbundle, get cold, and risk losing the dogs just for a picture. But we have a few.

The day began with feeding the dogs and cleaning up poop in the kennel area. This was at 7:30 AM so obviously we were up before that and getting bundled up. They have over 60 running dogs plus a few retired and 6 pups that aren’t ready for anything other than being adorable.

Colin and Greg made breakfast: sausage, oatmeal, hash brown potatoes, granola and yogurt, and “eggs in a basket” (fried eggs cooked inside a cut out slice of toast). We fired up our internal engines with plenty of food before having our inside class on dogsledding.

Colin ran the class while Greg headed down to the kennel to get the teams assembled. We met Susan Schurke, one of the owners, during breakfast and she gave some tips as well as tidbits into the internal operations.

The day was less windy and sunnier than the forecast had led us to expect-a very positive beginning to our journey. I believe the high today was about -5, a nice increase from the -25 during the night. Tonight is supposed to be back to -27.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

Chris meeting our team Thursday morning.

All of us were able to keep pretty warm, the only cold period was in the early afternoon, maybe around 1 pm, when our 3 teams joined up with 4 other teams and that slowed us down as, of course from my perspective, they were not quite as good as we were. There were numerous moments of waiting until the teams ahead were able to break the trail and keep going.

Last week’s blizzard blew snow over most of the trails and they had to be broken or re-groomed. Today was the first non-windy day so that was part of the challenge. Chris and I were in sled two; sled one, the women from WI, had the joy, challenge, and reward of being the leaders much of the time.

We did not leave the lodge until about 10:30. We were out until after two pm for the first run. We started riding across much of the lake, the wind being noticeable but bearable. We took some trails into the woods. The forest trails are narrower, hilly, and fraught with natural obstacles like trees. Going through the forest must be somewhat liking driving a semi. The cab (dogs) make turns close easily. The trailer (sled with Chris and Ed) don’t turn as tight and sometimes get stuck on, or bump into,tree trunks.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and Ed entering the lake after riding in the woods.

Chris and I each only fell off once. Both times were when we were helping the dogs around tight corners. Luckily each time the other one was still on the sled and able to stop the dogs. Oh yes, dog sledding is not just riding and having a great time.

Well, we did have a great time but there is a lot of exertion involved. You are standing, keeping your balance on running boards, reaching back to step on the brake as needed, helping to push the sled around corners and up hills.

Braking is a challenge. These dogs love to run. You can not run into the team in front. You have to slow them on downgrades. Light braking is fine on low hills. Jumpiing up and down on the brake (a smaller platform behind the running board) to dig into the snow is necessary even as you firmly tell the dogs WHOA!.

When you come to a temporary halt, the dogs are straining to go forward. They are howling to the sky. They are arguing/nipping/biting at their neighbor to establish who is the alpha female or male.

Chris, Ed, Isis  Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

Chris, Ed, Isis Stoney,, Loney, Yukon and Pecan.

The dogs are not perfect. Today Colin led the way most of the time on cross country skis. Sometimes the lead team wanted to go another way, or got slightly off the track and stuck in deep snow, or there was a particularly steep hill or bump that had to be negotiated carefully. Colin usually got to provide assistance.

We came back to our lodge around 2 pm. We shared our lodge with the other four teams for lunch-soup,salad, stromboli, etc. We left for our second ride around 3;45. This time the entire ride was just our three sleds and Colin. Greg got pulled away for other lodge duties. We missed him and kept Colin extremely busy working out tangles and miscreant sled dogs.

We pulled into the kennel before six, unharnessed the dogs and fed them. We were all extremely tired but felt happy, proud and reasonably warm. Before warming up, I started our car. So far, it is okay.

Dinner was chicken, peas and carrots, salad, and wild rice pilaf. Many a toast was raised to our exploits and remembrances of the day. Later Greg showed us some You Tube videos of his previous sled dog teams pulling him at a much faster clip than we attained today.

At 9 pm, we went out to observe the night sky and look for the Northern lights. The stars were numerous and bright. The northern lights were faint to the human eye. Greg’s camera is better than mine and tomorrow I hope to show you his pictures. I doubt that I will get up around midnight to view the northern lights again. They are supposed to be more vivid at that time.

Okay, on to bed and muscle recuperation.

Chris and Ed 10:45 pm

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2014 Trip One Dog Sledding in Ely

Wednesday, Feb 26 Ely Minnesota

It’s cold!!! Minus 40 or 50 wind chill tonight. But we have the gear and had the discussion of how to stay warm so we should be fine. By Sunday when we leave we will know for sure but we are looking forward to this experience.

So what are we doing?? This is Chris’ birthday gift. Dog sledding in Ely MN by the Boundary Waters Canoe Area at Wintergreen Dogsledding Lodge (www.dogsledding.com). This place has been written up in National Geographic and other notable publications.

Today was travel and get oriented day. Thursday we take outdoor lessons in dog sledding and take a run in the morning and one in the afternoon.

We left St. Paul around 8:30 AM. Luckily interstate 35 was in excellent driving condition, unlike the roads in the cities themselves. Past Cloquet Minnesota, the wind picked up and light snow was falling. The balance of the drive was in this windy, blustery weather.

Driving past Cloquet MN

Driving past Cloquet MN

We had packed a lunch and decided to drive through the lunch hour in case the weather got worse. So we had lunch while sitting in our car in Ely.

We picked up some rental winter gear and had purchased some other winter gear from the store in Ely associated with the Wintergreen dogsledding lodge. As you can expect, we were early for the arrival time so we had a dessert at a local cafe and drove around the town a bit.

Snow sculptures by the Ely High School

Snow sculptures by the Ely High School

The cafe had local newspapers. The largest one had a special section on the local controversy over a proposal (the PolyMet Company) to begin a new large scale mining operation. The newspapers are definitely for it. The owners of this lodge are not.

We arrived at the lodge at 4 PM. There are four people dogsledding with us. There are two women from Jacksonville, Florida and two women from Madison, Wisconsin. Thus Ed is the only male guest on the trip. Our two guides, Colin and Greg, are young men who seem very knowledgeable and personable.

The road to our lodge

The road to our lodge

The lodge is quite comfortable. It holds the three couples and one of the guides. There are two sitting areas, kitchen, and dining room The guides do the breakfast cooking. There is a chef who makes the lunches and dinners. Dinner tonight was breaded pork chops, cooked carrots, cheesy potatoes, tossed salad, home-made rolls and apple crisp for dessert.

Before dinner, though, Greg took the six of us to the dog kennels to feed them. The dogs heard us coming and started howling well before we were in sight of the kennels. These are Canadian Inuit dogs, born and bred to pull dog sleds. They are, so far, fun to look at and pet. Tomorrow we verify their pulling qualities.

One view of the dogs

One view of the dogs

I did not count but there must have been about 30 or 40 dogs there, not counting dogs that are out with other groups. For instance, there are a dozen teenagers from Houston who are camping out for a week and doing the dog sledding. I am happy to be sleeping inside.

Our Lodge at Wintergreen

Our Lodge at Wintergreen

After dinner we had education time discussing the trips we will take, nutrition, cold weather gear, etc. The 8 of us seem to get along very well.

The sleds are built for two people to stand on and it sounds like sometimes it may take both of us to stop the sled and the dogs. There will be times when we will have to help push the sled also. According to Colin and Greg, this is the only place where the guests actually drive the sleds versus just riding on them.

So there is a brief summary of day one. More excitement tomorrow.

Ed and Chris 9:45 pm 2/26/14

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