2023 Trip7: Northwest U.S.: History and Adventure: August 31

The Great Falls of the Missouri River at Ryan’s Dam

Great Falls, MT August 31

Great Falls Montana was the location of one of the longest delays encountered by Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery on their journey of exploration to the Pacific Ocean in 1805-1806. The Missouri River actually has five waterfalls in a short distance. Native American tribes had warned Lewis and Clark of the Great Falls, but had not mentioned the others. Lewis and Clark had planned on a portage of a day; it took them nearly a month.

Four of the falls are closer to the city of Great Falls. Great Falls, the highest waterfall, is northeast of the city and reached by back roads. There are dams and hydroelectric facilities all over the river and one today can not appreciate the majesty of what was once a free flowing 80-90 foot waterfall (Great Falls), nor the impact of five waterfalls so close together. We made our way to the Great Falls which have been topped with an extra 50 feet of concrete to produce more hydropower. Even with the concrete, we admired the rock canyon and the small stream of water coming over the dam. We could understand why the portage would have taken so long back in 1805.

There are scads of Lewis and Clark Trail interpretive centers around the U.S. The city of Great Falls is home to one of the largest, run by the U. S. Forest Service. Displays and videos here cover not only the portage around great falls, but the entirety of the total expedition. We were amazed at the amount of planning that went into this expedition and the quantity of supplies, material, and gifts to Native American tribes that they took with them. They even cached quantities of supplies to have on the return journey; hiding them so the supplies were not found by animals or Indians, yet discoverable by themselves on that return journey.

Looking for lunch, we noticed the Roadhouse Diner. Thinking it would be a typical diner with an extensive menu, we stopped there. Turns out it basically serves burgers and fries, plus a few salads and miscellaneous items. But what a burger! They were fantastic! The buns are baked especially for them every day. This place has seemingly won every burger award in the State of Montana. Sometimes you plan where you are going to eat and sometimes you just get lucky.

Our afternoon activity was the Charles Russell Museum.

Russell was a prolific artist specializing in paintings and sculptures of the Old West with landscapes, cowboys, bison, Native Americans, etc. The museum is a complex with multiple galleries and his home and studio. Russell was self-taught but received the praise of critics world wide. He produced over 4,000 works of art. We spent two hours here and enjoyed our time.

Above, a few of the many paintings on display. Below, this painting is set coming up the hill from Fort Benton that we drove up Thursday morning on our way to Great Falls.

Above, Russell’s studio in Great Falls Montana

Today is laundry night and Friday we head for Idaho.

Ed and Chris Great Falls Montana Aug .31