Monthly Archives: June 2022

2022 Trip 2: Central Iowa: June 25-26

Fort Dodge, IA June 25, 2022

Saturday and Sunday produced a mixed bag of activities. Saturday started at Reiman Gardens at Iowa State University in Ames. Not only was there an art installation (called Lewis and Arts) featuring the whimsical use of scrap materials by MN artist Dale Lewis, the regional annual lily show was on display along with a series of exhibitors discussing pollinator gardens.

The 17 acre site is compact enough to walk around easily. Numerous areas focus on plants such as roses, herbs, flora suited for shady areas, a hillside garden minimizing water use, etc. Next to the entrance is a butterfly exhibit, always a treat. While busy, the site was never overwhelmed with people. Plenty of opportunities existed to sit and enjoy the beauty.

But after 90 minutes of enjoying nature’s beauty and Lewis’ art, we were off to our next adventure. The Boone and Scenic Valley Railroad has been running since 1983 on track purchased from the old Chicago and North Western line. One of the highlights was to be the crossing of the Bass Point Creek on a 156 foot high trestle bridge.

On the 1.75 hour ride, we learned that this section of Iowa had been home to coal and gypsum mines. The coal was low grade but good enough to run the steam trains until diesel engines took over. The coal mines are not visible, they were 75-100 feet underground in this section of central Iowa. However, the mining provided just enough economics to operate freight trains and a series of interurban trains operating throughout central Iowa. Now the tracks are used for the Boone and Scenic Valley passenger excursions along with a little bit of switching modern rail freight cars from the Union Pacific main line to several local industries.

The excursion ride itself was disappointing. There is no opportunity to actually view the 156 foot high bridge. The train only averages eight miles per hour so it is just puttering along. The scenery is not overwhelming although we went through sections of woods where butterflies were everywhere; some of them hitching a ride on the window sills of the train.

After the ride we went into the museum and talked with some of the staff about the operations (they maintain the engines,cars, and tracks through volunteers), economics (the switching of freight cars for local industry) and the bridges. They mentioned to us the Kate Shelley Memorial High Bridge. This bridge was built by the Union Pacific in 1900, is one half mile long, and 185 feet tall. It is named after an Irish immigrant woman who in 1881 saved the lives of 200 passengers on a train that, except for her efforts, would have crashed down the 185 feet when the bridge supports washed away due to flooding. In the middle of the night, she crawled over downed timbers of the bridge and hiked a half mile to the next station to make sure the passenger train she knew would be coming in the middle of the night could be stopped in time.

Well, since we missed the Boone trestle bridge, we decided to go exploring. On a dead end dirt road we found a spot to view the 1900 Kate Shelley Memorial High Bridge and the new concrete supported additional bridge built by the UP in 2009. Not the bridge we came for, but impressive and with a heroic story to boot.

We drove to Fort Dodge Iowa for the night and had dinner in a pleasant local restaurant (Mineral City) with a brand new server but excellent Parmesan crusted chicken and limoncello cake. Lunch had been in a cafe/bakery back in Boone-decent but not enough to tide us over for the day.

The Shrine of the Grotto of the Redemption

Sunday found us in West Bend Iowa viewing ”The Shrine of the Grotto of the Redemption”. This had been on my radar for some time but we never got around to actually visiting it. The Grotto is supposedly the largest man-made grotto in the world and contains the largest collection of precious stones and gems found anywhere in one location. The Grotto was built completely by hand. It was begun in 1912 by a Roman Catholic priest, Father Paul Doberstein, in gratitude for surviving the pneumonia he suffered just prior to his ordination. He labored on the grotto for 42 years, setting rocks and gems into concrete. The stones and gems come from around the world. He was assisted by one local parishioner and the work completed by his successor, Father Louis Greving.

Three of the grottos

Technically the grotto is a series of nine grottos, with such tableaus as Garden of Eden, the Trinity, the Stations of the Cross, Garden of Gethsemane, Resurrection, etc. It is so complex and intertwined, even a panorama picture does not give its full scale. The intricacy of the stonework is mind blowing. We spent an hour walking around and still did not truly see its entirety.

On the way home after navigating numerous paved and gravel back roads, we stopped at Union Slough National Wildlife Refuge. The name comes from the fact that this area is a connection, or union, between two watersheds at the eastern edge of the tallgrass prairie. Land in this area had been drained though a series of levees and ditches to allow intensive agriculture. Starting in 1978, restoration efforts have made a small haven for wildlife in a region dominated by agriculture.

Only a short walk was possible due to limitations imposed to protect active breeding nests. While not prime viewing time, waterfowl were obvious. The landscape of grasses blowing in the wind, with the slough and agricultural fields framed by blue skies made for a pastoral setting.

Ed and Chris

June 26, 2022

Saint Paul MN

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2022 Trip 2:Central Iowa: June 24

Des Moines, IA June 24

No oddity like a matchstick cathedral today but the day still packed a few punches. Early rain meant we passed on visiting a restored prairie and national wildlife refuge. Our first visit was to the Iowa state historical museum-with a bonus, free parking! What a treat nowadays.

Pearls, Buttons and clamming along the Mississippi River

The Iowa historical museum is large and the first floor exhibits were sort of like visiting a department store, a little bit of something for everyone. Early history with farming, Civil War, immigration, glaciers, fashion styles, flora and fauna, river mussels, natural resources, Native Americans, etc. It seemed like every imaginable topic was covered by one or two exhibit boards.

The second floor was more focused. Two large exhibits, one on Iowa and films, the other on RAGBRAI (Register’s Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa) dominated the space. Living in Minnesota, RAGBRAI was well known to us. For novices, RAGBRAI is a seven day bike ride of 450 miles across Iowa limited to 10,000 riders. Not a race, but an experience. The route is not straight and it varies from year to year. Basically the route starts at the Missouri River (Sergeant Bluff, south of Sioux City, this year) and ends at the Mississippi River (Lansing, this year, about 30 miles south of the MN border). Daily distances range from 50 to 100 miles and yes, there is elevation gain. Mason City, where we were Thursday with Shannon and Adam, is one of the host cities in 2022. The referral to ”Register” is due to the Des Moines Register, a newspaper, being the initial sponsor.

The second major exhibit was devoted to ”Hollywood in Iowa” featuring local movie stars and films made in Iowa. Film names you might recall include Bridges of Madison County, Field of Dreams, Music Man, State Fair, etc. Four to six minute clips from the movies were shown.

We asked a helpful staff member about the lack of any mention of Herbert Hoover, the 31st President of the U.S. who was born in Iowa. The Hoover Presidential Library is in West Branch Iowa and we thought it was extremely well done when we visited it. After reminding us that Minnesota has never had a President, the staff informed us that all of Hoover’s presidential and personal effects had been left to other groups. Without a base of items tied to his life and presidency, it did not seem appropriate to have any exhibit. Understandable but still it seems at least some reference could have been made.

After two hours at the history museum, we made our way to the Iowa State Capitol. Here we had a wonderfully informative and interesting 90+ minute tour. Our docent was able to bring to life the building, its history, architecture and personality. If there was one overarching theme it was that the state wanted a show place, a major statement that Iowa was a great state in its own right. The Capitol was completed in 1886, although some finishing touches lingered into the early 1900s. The golden capped dome is the largest dome of any state capitol.

Chandeliers in the two legislative chambers came from Vienna and Czechoslovakia. There are 29 varieties of marble and numerous wood varieties. The Capitol houses the only five story law library of any state government. The tour included both houses of the legislature, showed us the original Iowa constitution, and had us climbing up (and down) 125 feet into the rotunda.

The Supreme Court bench.

Our docent provided many interesting stories. Just one to give you a sample. The original Supreme Court had five jurists. The dais and bench they occupied was to be carved out of mahogany wood and a competition was held to select one person to carve the intricate woodwork. The person winning the competition was only 22 years old but there was opposition to selecting a person so young. Eventually he was awarded the work and completed it masterfully. Forty some years later the Supreme Court was expanded from five to nine jurists but the dais and bench were too small so a call went out for another master woodworker to complete an addition to the original. The woodworker who had carved the original dais and bench responded. He was living in Chicago, was still carving, and would love to finish the project. He got the contract.

Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden

After a late lunch we headed to the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden. Located along the Des Moines River, the facility combines indoor and outdoor displays. The day had become sunny and warm with enough of a breeze that it was pleasant to walk among the outdoor displays. We had hoped to end up with a visit to an outdoor sculpture garden but the area was home to a weekend art festival and parking was a hassle. We settled for ice cream instead.

Behind the waterfall at Greater Des Moines Botanical Gardens

Ed and Chris, Des Moines IA

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2022 Trip 2: Central Iowa: June 23

Thursday June 23, 2022

Des Moines Iowa

We were seeking just a short trip to keep the travel bug alive. The Iowa State Capitol and history museum just never rose to the top of our stops despite driving down I-35 numerous times over the years. So a trip to Des Moines seemed a reasonable short get away with the added bonus of visiting my niece and her husband in Mason City IA.

Shannon and Adam are serial entrepreneurs who opened Walsh’s Shebeen in Mason City late last year. A private club offering specialty cocktails, it offers a rich atmosphere and an inviting list of regular and rotating alcoholic beverages. They make their own bitters and syrups from fresh ingredients. We got a tour after spending some time catching up on various family matters. If you live in the Mason City area, best get yourselves over there and become a member.

If you are a regular reader of our blog, you know besides parks and museums, we like to visit various oddities, those one of a kind places that you just have to see to believe. This afternoon’s visit was both unusual and impressive. This was my pick and Chris’ initial reluctance gave way to admiration for Patrick Acton of Gladbrook Iowa (pop.968) and his impressive matchstick creations. Yes, matchstick creations. What started out in 1977 as a simple creation of a church made from 500 matchsticks, with the sulphur heads cut off, has grown into a full time job creating models for Ripley’s Believe It or Not. Recent creations use hundreds of thousands of matchsticks.

After 10 years of buying matchsticks in local stores and cutting off the ends, Acton found out he could buy the sticks plain, before the sulphur tip was created. His last purchase was for over 3,000,000 matchsticks because the manufacturer indicated matches were a dying product and the sticks would soon no longer be available. He calculates he has used over 8,000,000 matchsticks over the years to create over 75 large models. And yes, each matchstick is individually glued to its neighbor.

So how does one see one of these creations? You could see one by visiting a Ripley’s Believe It or Not attraction. Or you could pay $5 per adult and visit the Gladbrook City Hall where one large room is devoted to at least 20 of his models and sculptures. Acton feels strongly that his creations should maintain a strong Iowa presence. Gladbrook is where he, his wife and children call home and the city has made ”Matchstick Marvels” a regular part of its city hall since 2003.

Below are photos of several of his matchstick marvels on display in Gladbrook. Can you guess how many matchsticks it took to create the Notre Dame model at the top of this blog? (Answer at the end of the blog.)

U.S. Capitol made from matchsticks

Our last stop of the day was to visit the ”Bridges of Madison County”. Now, I had heard of the book and movie but never read the book or saw the movie. Chris gave me the basic plot as we drove to Madison County, a little south of Des Moines. Evidently Madison County is home to the largest grouping of covered bridges still remaining in the state. Covered bridges are fun to see and visit but the publication of the book in 1992 and the movie in 1995 really gave a real boost to visiting the remaining six bridges. I could recite the history of each bridge, when it was built, the materials used, etc. but I won’t bore you and give you just a visual treat of some of the bridges. You can read the book yourself to discover which ones are more prominent.

Yes, is allowed to write a message on the white portion of the bridge.

Final stop was a short climb up a tower in Winterset Iowa. Nothing that dramatic but we did it so you get to see it.

Ed and Chris

Des Moines IA June 23, 2022

Answer to question: Model of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris took 298,000 matchsticks and ten gallons of glue.

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