2021 Southwest Circle Tour-June 5

Cortez Colorado, Saturday June 5, 2021

Our tour of Long House was to begin at 10:30 A.M. We left the hotel at 7:30. We had to: drive to Mesa Verde entrance from Cortez, drive the 27 miles to Wetherill Mesa trailhead and parking lot, and then walk .75 miles to the meeting point for the tour. They want you at the tour meeting spot 15 minutes early. NPS recommends 1.5 hours to drive the 27 miles to the trailhead. As you might expect, the road is full of switchbacks, steep ascent and descents, fallen rock areas, and potentially slow drivers. We figured it would be necessary to leave our hotel no later than 8 AM to meet the recommended schedule.

We arrived at the Wetherill parking area at 8:30. The drive did not take as long as the Park Service recommends. They also recommend that you have half a gallon of water per person for the hike. We took more than we would normally take, but less than the recommendation. At the end of the tour, we had a surplus of water. So much for Park Service recommendations.

Evidence of 2000 fire on Wetherill Mesa

Arriving early allowed us to explore the Long House area before the tour started. Our picture of Long House from a distance was only possible because we hiked to an overlook. The trails here are paved and a variety of flowers were evident along the path. Wetherill Mesa suffered a wild fire in 2000 and scorched and burnt trees were still standing.

A ranger was stationed at the meeting point to greet visitors, check your ticket and send you in at the appointed time. Piñon gnats were flying and periodic cicadas were making their unique noise. So far it seems we have avoided any gnat bites, tomorrow may be a better indicator. The tour to Long House involved a 2.25 mile round trip with an elevation gain of 130 feet and climbing two 15-foot ladders. Not horrendous but at 7000 feet and after the pre-tour hiking, we were tired at the conclusion of our visit. The good side is we were able to hike in the early morning temperatures in the 70s versus hiking after the tour when the temperatures were in the high 80s.

Due to COVID-19, instead of one ranger leading a group of 25 and giving a full history of the site, two rangers were stationed at the site and answered questions. For us, this provide a good experience. We have been to numerous similar sites and did not need a recap. Our 10:30 tour time was missing most of its visitors. We were not sure if they were delayed or changed their minds. Their absence made for a sparse gathering but more attention from the two rangers. The 11 o’clock tour had a full cadre and filled up the spaces.

From the NPS.—Long House is nearly equal in size to Cliff Palace with about 150 rooms, 21 kivas, and a row of upper storage rooms. It may have been home 150 to 175 people. Some of the architectural features in Long House suggest it was also a public place where people from all over the Wetherill Mesa gathered to trade or hold community events. The formal plaza in the center of the site is larger than most villages and has some features not often found in other Mesa Verde archeological sites. ….The high number of rooms and kivas in Long House, plus the presence of the formal plaza suggest the community was a particularly significant place for Ancestral Pueblo people, perhaps serving both civic and ceremonial functions.

Tonight was our first sit down and order from a menu dinner. We chose the Loungin Lizard in downtown Cortez and both of us ordered their comfort food meat loaf. We shared a bread pudding with two scoops of cinnamon ice cream. The restaurant was recommended by a couple from Miami. At the Mesa Verde Visitor Center, the woman noticed Chris’ traveling vest and asked where Chris purchased it. One thing led to another and 20 minutes later we wished them well on the rest of their excursion. The exchange brought back pre-COVID travel experiences of chatting with fellow travelers.

Speaking of COVID 19, one just has to be flexible. This Hampton Inn requires face masks at all times indoors. It is serving hot and cold breakfasts but you are served once again by a staff member stationed behind a table. The swimming pool is open. One local grocery store had no sign regarding masks. Another grocery store requested unvaccinated people to wear a mask. The Mesa Verde bookstore required masks and limited attendance to 10 people at a time. Exhibits were closed. The Canyons of the Ancients visitor center had exhibits open and requested face masks if unvaccinated. They also had their movie going.

For us, traveling once again is great and we are more than willing to be flexible.

Ed Heimel, Chris Klejbuk Cortez CO Saturday June 5, 2021