Southwest Circle Tour-June 1, 2021

Manitou Springs, CO June 1, 2021

Pikes Peak or bust. An old saying. Today we said, bust. We were scheduled for the 1:20 P.M. tram ride to the summit of Pikes Peak. The Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway just reopened after a three-year rehabilitation and replacement effort. The ride would be about a three hour round trip up and down including 45 minutes at the peak. At 10:42 AM, as we were nearing Manitou Springs after driving from La Junta Colorado, we received a text saying that the Cog Railway will not go to the summit today. Due to snow, ice and high wind at the summit, they would stop at a place called Windy Point. We decided to take their offer for a full refund and reschedule for sometime in the future. The option was to go to Windy Point with a 25% reduction in the fee.

The day started out fine. Yesterday’s clouds and rain gave way to bright blue skies. Our first stop, Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site was opening at 8 AM starting today. Previously Bents Old Fort opened at nine which would’ve been a tight fit to see it and get to Manitou Springs for our tram ride. Given all of the traffic in Manitou Springs and the parking issues, the tram people wanted you there at least an hour beforehand. So an 8 o’clock opening came in handy. As frequently happens with us, we were the first people there. In fact, we were the only people visiting during the first hour of operation.

What we visited was a reconstruction. It is unique because it is a complete reconstruction, only possible due to meticulous drawings and measurements taken by US Army Topographical Engineer Lt.James Abert and a three year archeological excavation in the 1960s. Lt. Abert was at the site in 1845 and 1846 as he recovered from illness.

For the reconstruction, a custom built machine was used to make 160,000 adobe bricks. Skilled craftsmen used cottonwood and ponderosa pine to support the roof and make doors and windowsills. Blacksmiths had to fashion hardware throughout the fort. The reconstruction was a two year effort completed in 1976, in time for the U.S. bicentennial and Colorado centennial.

Ben’s Old Fort was located at the junction, la Junta in Spanish, of the Arkansas River and the Santa Fe Trail. For those of you weak on your US history, the Arkansas River used to be the border between the US and Mexico. Many people believe the Louisiana purchase gave the United States the territory between the Mississippi and the Pacific. Not so. Mexico used to claim the entire territory of New Mexico, Arizona, California, Utah, Nevada and part of Colorado. Oh yeah, and Texas.

The fort was located at the cross road of cultures. English, French, Spanish, and numerous Indian dialects were spoken here. William and Charles Bent and their partner Ceran Saint Vrain build the fort as a trading post at this juncture in 1833. They had been successful traders. The fort increased their presence; partially enhanced by Williams’s embracing the frequent practice of western traders to marry Native American women. William married four Native American women, several at the same time. Marriage gave traders credibility and entre into the practices of the Native Americans. Charles was appointed Territorial Governor in New Mexico and killed during the uprising there in 1847.

In 1846, the military used the fort as a staging area to enter and take over parts of Mexico. Military usage and the growing stream of settlers and gold seekers disrupted the long and friendly trading practices between the Bents and Native Americans. Bison were killed off and settlers used up most of the little quantity of wood. The economic value of the fort plummeted. St. Vrain sold out to William Bent. In 1849, the fort burnt to the ground. Cause of the fire is not known with many unproven explanations.

During its 16 year run, Bent’s Old Fort was the most imposing and richly maintained edifice on the prairie. It’s adobe construction required over 100 Mexican artisans from New Mexico. Not only an economic engine, the fort served as a peacemaking and neutral meeting ground. William Bent continued to play a role in the area after the fort burnt as well did his children.

Since Pikes Peak was a bust, we continued our journey to Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, about 20 miles past Pikes Peak. Due to Covid, the interior exhibits were closed. There were a few fossils outside at a table with a volunteer. Over 50,000 fossil specimens have been distributed to scientists and museums around the world. The fossils were discovered in the late 1800s. Several notable scientists made their reputations doing archaeological excavations here. Untold numbers of fossils were hunted and sold by private citizens for decades. Other fossils probably exist beneath the ground. Today, the main fossil visible attraction is the remnants of petrified redwood trees that existed in the area before being chipped away by scavengers.

The National Park Service obtained the location in the 1970s from private owners who had marketed the location as a recreation and fossil hunting area. It was facing the possibility of being developed for housing. Today it protects an area which over eons has experienced marked shifts in climate, topography, and flora and fauna. Lava flows from numerous volcanic eruptions 34 million years ago preserved the flora and fauna that the volcanoes were killing. Because of the lava, the Florissant Fossil Beds are home to one of the best known and richest paleontological resources in the world. Fossil viewing here is not spectacular. Florissant is a unit of the NPS because one of the missions of the Park Service is to preserve and protect natural and cultural resources.

Covid Update. During this trip we will stay one night at a Country Inn & Suites, a Days Inn, and a Springhill Suites; four nights at Best Westerns; two nights at Air BnBs; and six nights at Hampton Inns. We thought you might find value in travelers’ impressions So far, each hotel has had a plexiglass barrier at the front desk. Two hotels gave you clean pens. Two hotels had pools open although with some restrictions. Each claim to have enhanced cleaning which also usually means no maid service if you stay for longer than one day. Hampton Inns place a seal on the door after the room has been inspected after cleaning. Hot breakfast food is starting to come back but normally dished up for you as you wait at a table next to the kitchen. Hampton Inn has bagged breakfast to go that is hearty and tasty.

Dinner tonight was at Rudy’s Bar B Q . You place your order and pick your seat at one of the long tables. The food was good although the beans were a bit spicy for us. We would come back.

Mask wearing is a bit confusing right now in Colorado. Local option rules. Last night’s county was in a good place so no masks were necessary. In Manitou Springs they are required in all buildings. At Florissant Fossil Beds, the county did require a mask. Just keep one in your pocket and read the signs.

Ed Heimel, Chris Klejbuk, Manitou Springs, CO

June 1, 2021