2019 Trip 5: Alaska,Aug.24-25, #2

Denali

Healy, AK Sunday August 25

Fog along the Parks Highway south of Fairbanks.

Heavy fog in the valley below the Parks Highway.

We left Fairbanks Saturday morning driving down the Parks Highway. The Parks Highway is named after George Parks, an Alaskan Territorial Governor, not for Denali National Park. It runs from Fairbanks to Palmer, just north of Anchorage. Fog covered the highway early, lifting as we moved south and into higher elevations. We arrived in Healy around noon and stopped at our small, mom and pop motel, the White Moose Lodge. We were able to check in and obtain our room keys but not gain access to the room. Fine with us, we had only wanted to let them know we were in town since travel up from Anchorage is still delayed due to wildfires.

Our plan was to arrive in Denali National Park and Preserve early enough to scope out the park, take a hike or two, and verify our reservations for the Sunday morning 6:30 AM bus ride 66 miles into Denali. All of the above were accomplished along with attending church with 32 other souls. One would have thought that a Mass with only 32 people would have been brief but this priest liked to hear himself preach so we had a full hour.

Denali’s layout is a little unique. There is a separate bus depot that handles the ticketing and dispatching for the multiple bus options to tour Denali as well as transport campers, hikers, short day users, etc. About a mile away is the visitor center, parking, gift store and cafe, theater, and train depot. Taking the train to Denali for an overnight from Anchorage, particularly for cruise ship passengers, is a big deal. The train had been canceled for a day or two due to the wildfires right along the tracks. People were transferred to buses for the ride instead.

Two views from original Denali visitor lodging area. Top is view that would on a clear day show Denali.

Two views from the Savage River hike in Denali National Park and Preserve

Chris and I went on several short hikes. We walked around the Savage River location where the first visitors stayed in tent cabins in the 1920s. One of the exhibits told us where to look to see Denali. Clouds blocked the view and we saw nothing. Visiting the sled dogs is another popular option but having fed, harnessed, and driven the sleds in winter in Ely, MN several years ago made any visit here a pale comparison. Instead we saw the video, walked to the bus depot, picked up our tickets, and went for another hike along the Savage River at the point where private cars can go no farther. Dinner was at the 49th State Brewery in Healy, a busy, bustling bistro.

Sunday was up early. We were third in line for the bus, one of many school bus style vehicles in the park. Our style of riding was basically without a lot of narration; much less expensive than the narrated trip. The driver gives sufficient information to inform you of what you are seeing and answers questions in depth. Shorter and longer destinations are possible, and one could get off, go hiking, and flag down a later bus to return. This option normally takes 6-8 hours. We thought that was more than enough time to be sitting on a cramped bus.

Buses lined up at one of the overlooks

It turned out that the bus actually had reasonable leg room with overhead storage to hold our backpack and extra jackets. This 6:30 AM bus was the first one of the day to our destination and was full. We thought the early departure time would provide for a greater likelihood to see animals. We lucked out, we saw tons of animals and great views of Denali. Supposedly only 20-30% of visitors see Denali due to cloud cover. Saturday night we did not view it; by Sunday afternoon clouds were moving in with brief drizzles. Sunday evening it rained. Our timing was quite fortunate. We had chosen to stay three nights in Healy and one more night in Talkeetna to improve our chances to have good weather for viewing.

Views of Denali began early with some cloud cover and improved after that. By the time we reached Eielson Visitor Center, there were only wisps of clouds flowing across the mountain. Eielson is still 30 miles from Denali, it is one massive mountain. In Athabascan, Denali means “high one”. It is North America’s tallest mountain at 20,310 feet,

In the bus looking down

Park Road begins in the valley going through boreal forest with conifers and brush. This is favorite moose habitat. After Savage River, the road is only open to permitted buses and begins climbing on a dirt, narrow road. Buses have to slow down or stop and maneuver around each other. The drop-off on the cliff side is frequently steep. It was a pleasure to leave the driving to others. The views change to a grassy, tundra vegetation with the mountains of the Alaska Range showing their peaks, sometimes snow-capped. As a side comment, yes, there are sufficient rest stops on the bus tours and we have not been bothered by mosquitoes anywhere in Alaska yet.

Melting permafrost has vegetation giving way and sliding down towards the road.

Permafrost failures (where the warming temperature has melted the “permanent” frost in the ground) along the road are visible frequently. This is a great concern, both for the changing vegetation but also for the road which will become more susceptible to mudslides and pavement failures.

Between the driver and the passengers, there are plenty of eyes looking for animals. It does take the passengers about 20 minutes to remember to yell “Stop” as a sign that they have seen animals. Most yell “over there”, “bear”, “is that one”, etc. at first. The driver is good and backs up when necessary and feasible given road conditions. People on the side of the animal take pictures first and then give way to the people on the other side. We do not get out, the animals come first and the Park does not want them to get acclimated to humans.

Another view of Denali

Denali

We are giddy about the possibility of seeing Denali. The sun is out and clouds are rare. Our first glimpse comes from way out but we get several other good shots before we reach Eielson Visitor Center where the bus stops for 30 minutes. Here the viewing is great and we take numerous photos.

Alaska Range in Denali

One can, if desired, stay here for a while and take a later bus back as long as they have room. We are one of the ones who take this bus back. Luckily for campers on another bus, many of our bus companions stayed longer. The campers’ bus broke down and we pick up 23 campers and their packs about 1/3 of the way back to the main bus depot.

The return trip takes longer since we had to load up the campers. My legs start to cramp up and am happy to finally get back to the bus depot at 3 PM. We returned to White Moose and had a picnic out on their deck. The rest of the day was checking out where we were to pick up the raft, getting out the blog of just photos, gassing up the car and then crashing. In bed by 8 PM and asleep shortly thereafter.

Two side comments. We have not been bothered by mosquitoes anywhere in Alaska. I believe their season has come and gone. Second, we observed in Fairbanks an item we have not observed for forty years. Electric car heaters and plug-ins were common in Minnesota. When we moved to Pennsylvania in the mid-70s, they they had no idea what we were talking about. By the time we moved back to Minnesota in 2003, they were uncommon there also. In Fairbanks, it seemed most vehicles had them and the Museum of the North had plug-ins all over the parking lot.

Electric car heater and outdoor plug-in

Ed and Chris. Monday August 26 3 PM