Monthly Archives: June 2018

2018 Trip 4: Arizona: June 1-3

Flagstaff and Phoenix Arizona, Friday to Sunday, June 1 to 3

Part of Taliesin West, Scottsdale AZ

This 18 day trip wrapped up on a slower pace. Friday we started the day easy and then drove down to Phoenix. The scenery changes from the Ponderosa Pine forested mountains of Flagstaff, through the western end of the Mogollan Rim to the cactus studded area around Phoenix. We checked in to the Orange Tree Resort, a time share community from which we obtained our two nights lodging. Chris and I jumped in the pool, Deb and Rebecca lounged on their patio. Dinner was at Ajo Al’s, an authentic Mexican restaurant.

Dinner at Ajo Al’s, Phoenix

People here love the weather, so they say. I believe them. However, Chris and I found the 90 to 107 degree days hot, dry heat or not. I noticed people did not sit outside under the shady umbrellas at restaurants until evening. They hide indoors during the day. So, in my opinion, not much difference enjoying a warm indoors during a Minnesota winter as enjoying a cool indoors during an Arizona summer.

One other supporter of my belief-Frank Lloyd Wright, the famous architect (1867-1959). Wright founded an architectural studio and school just outside Scottsdale, Taliesin West. We toured it Saturday morning; Chris and Rebecca taking a three-hour tour. Deb and I settled for a 1.75 hour tour. Wright’s school, following in his past practice, packs up the students and faculty from mid-May to October and they study at Taliesin East in Spring Green Wisconsin. He was no dummy, it is hot in Arizona in the summer.

One example of the reconstructed Chinese art at Taliesin West

Taliesin East came first, Taliesin West was founded in 1937. I am not going to give you a history of Wright, there are many books about his life and his work. A few tidbits gleaned from our docent tours to liven up the narrative though. Frank Lloyd Wright:

    • had three wives and a mistress
    • was a challenging person to work with
    • designed over 1000 buildings, if an owner followed his design exactly, they were allowed to place a red icon on the building, around 20 owners qualified as most found some aspect of his design not to their liking
    • had his students live in the desert in tents for their first year at Taliesin West, years two and three they built their own small housing units in the desert which were torn down when they left
    • emphasized incorporating the building into the natural environment in which it was placed
    • purchased a large quantity of broken Chinese artifacts, had his students glue them together and many are placed around Taliesin West
    • designed his cabaret (small theater) with almost perfect acoustics and seating designed on a bias so a person’s view is not blocked by the individual seated in the row in front of her
    • The water features and stone walks and walls were fire prevention features
    • and his school have a zero drop-out rate, and a 100% placement rate for its graduates with a notable international representation
    • the doorways are a ducking place for people 6 foot tall and over

    The drafting studio at Taliesin West

    The
    Cabaret

    The Water Tower at Taliesin West – once Wright had enough money to drill deep enough to reach the aquifer

    After a lunch at Panera, it was back to the Orange Tree Resort for more pool and relaxation time.  Lou and Joyce had returned from Flagstaff and joined us for a pizza and pasta dinner in our room. Then Chris and I took Deb and Rebecca to the airport for their red-eye flight back to Boston.

    On Sunday, we found a Catholic Church nearby, Blessed Sacrament, that actually had decent singing by the congregation. We had lunch at In-N-Out, a west coast burger chain before joining Lou and Joyce at the Musical Instrument Museum. The Musical Instrument Museum is amazing but let me get my biases out of the way. A. I think corporate execs are paid way too much and this museum was started by a former chief exec of Target Corporation; B. As a Minnesotan, and since Target is headquartered in Minnesota, I would have preferred to see such a museum in the Twin Cities. Okay, on with the tale.

    One example of a country exhibit at Musical Instrument Museum Phoenix

    The Musical Instrument Museum (MIM) is housed in a building that does not wow you on its architectural style. It is clean, straight lines, white and beige colors. It is the inside, the exhibits, that make one say “WOW”. And I am not a major music listener. The second floor is devoted to collections of musical instruments from around the world, grouped by geographical regions. So what? you say. Well, the presentation includes examples of the musical instrument; a map so the geographically challenged can understand where the country is located (I did not remember that the New Hebrides are now called Vanuatu-did you?); and an audio-visual screen that comes to life as you approach it wearing your headset. Thus you understand the country’s location, see the instrument, and hear and see the instruments being played.

    Another country exhibit

    Just four of the 15,000 instruments in the collection at Musical Instrument Museum

    While numerous instruments are local adaptations of standard instruments (drums), there are unique examples also. The museum has a saying: “Music is the language of the soul”. The exhibits demonstrate the universality of music and the enjoyment and the ritual needs it fulfills. The first floor has a rotating exhibit room (currently a new exhibit is being set up), displays of instruments and related videos of famous musicians from around the world, a display of mechanical music, and an experience gallery where guests can play instruments similar to those on display. We spent two hours here and could have easily been here two or three times as long. Highly recommended.

    We said our good-byes to Lou and Joyce and headed to the airport where our flight got us home at 11 PM. A very enjoyable 18 days and 2200 miles of Arizona exploration-with a plus of family time.

    Ed and Chris. Saint Paul June 4

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2018 Trip 4: Arizona: May 31

Flagstaff, AZ. Thursday May 31

Floating on the Colorado River south of Glen Canyon Dam

Supposedly only 1% of the 5,000,000 people who visit the Grand Canyon area actually get down into the canyon. Well, we are part of the 1%. As mentioned yesterday, hiking down is not an option, nor is hiring a helicopter. We chose to float on 15 miles of the Colorado River. Wilderness River Adventures is a licensed NPS concessionaire and we chose their three-hour float trip.

Downstream side of Glen Canyon Dam from the Colorado River

Yes, much of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon has rapids. But we started just below the Glen Canyon Dam which creates Lake Powell. Lake Powell is the second largest reservoir in the U.S. and the water that is released provides a relatively calm ride for the next 15 miles. The canyon walls in this section rise from 700 to over 1500 feet above the floater. The float trip includes riding through Horseshoe Bend, a well-known tourist vista normally seen from up above.

Our raft

The trip begins with a 6 A.M. check-in, including a TSA safety check since the trip begins in a restricted area beneath the dam. A bus transports us from the Page AZ gathering point to the base of the dam, including a two-mile tunnel ride from above ground to the dam base. Our raft held 19 people and our guide; the raft could probably have held as many as thirty people. Four rafts left this morning (yes, all came back) from a combination of individual ticket buyers like us to chartered bus trips.

Some of the petroglyphs

For the next three hours, we traveled downriver. Early on the day was cool. As the hours went by, the sun rose higher and it became warm, making us glad we did not take an afternoon trip. For part of the trip, a wind developed along the river and cooled us off. We stopped once for a bathroom break and short hike to view petroglyphs chiseled by the Ancient Puebloans and Hopi.

The boat pulled over to one side of the canyon walls by a spring that pours water into the river. The spring is purified by seeping through hundreds of feet of limestone. Adventurous souls like me tried a sip or two. Not bad, but I was expecting it to be cooler.

Top-part of mountain goat group; bottom-close-up

When we began the journey, Cole, our guide who also has a second job at Bonkers where we ate dinner last night, indicated that mountain goats inhabit the area. If we were lucky we might see some. However, he has only seen them twice in the last year. I was lucky enough to spy a group of nine of them and alerted the rest of the boat. A fortunate circumstance.

The beginning of Horseshoe Bend

As usual on such trips, the guide is eager to point out rock formations that resemble people, or animals, or shapes. Our guide was no exception but frequently to see the rock formation shape would take more imagination than I have. When we went through Horseshoe Bend, we could see the tiny figures of people 1000 feet above. When we visited Horseshoe Bend a few years ago, we stayed further back from the edge due to my vertigo and I would probably not have been visible to anyone on the river.

The trip finished at Lees Ferry, one of the few areas along the river with slopes gentle enough to allow early travelers access to the river. The LDS church sponsored an early ferry here to assist its members in their travels to Salt Lake City. Today it is a major jumping off point for river rapids rafters. Just downstream from Lees Ferry is a bridge that automobiles and travelers take to reach the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. That drive is spectacular, we took it in 2016.

View of Colorado River from Lees Ferry bridge

Buses were waiting to transport us back to Page. The journey takes an hour; roads are infrequent and the road back is not direct. The view of the Colorado River and the rock formations managed to keep it awake for the first 15 minutes. Lunch was at a Page restaurant called The Dam Bar and Grill. It was okay.

After lunch we headed back to Flagstaff for a last night with Lou and Joyce. We did make a stop at the Cameron Trading Post. This is a 100 year old store, restaurant and lodge and for many years was the major resting point between Flag and Page. Ice cream was our only purchase.

A beautiful morning on the Colorado River

Ed and Chris, June 3 Phoenix AZ

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2018 Trip 4: Arizona: May 30

Page, Arizona. Wednesday May 30

Lower Antelope Canyon, Page AZ

Chris and I were the good ones, getting up at 4:15 A.M. to view a Grand Canyon sunrise. Frankly, we should have stayed in bed. It was alright, but not dramatic. Too many clouds and not much red and orange to make the sunrise stand out. Still, we were proud of ourselves for getting up and walking to the Trail View Overlook for the sunrise.

Sunrise at Grand Canyon, Trail View Overlook

Bright Angel trail from South Rim Grand Canyon top; bottom hikers just starting out on trail.

Trail View Overlook is on the Hermits Rest rim trail. Cars are not allowed there most of the year; you either walk or take the shuttle. Hermit’s Rest juts out into the canyon so it is a good trail to use for sunrise viewing. Trail View is named because you can look down onto Bright Angel Trail, the trail taken by mules and most people hiking on the trail. Readers of the blog have read that I have vertigo now so walking along that trail is just not something on my agenda. Even at 5 AM we saw people beginning the hike. It usually takes twice as long to hike back up as it does to go down. You can choose just to walk a short portion, no pressure to do it all.

A departing view of Grand Canyon

The four of us had breakfast and left a little before ten on our drive to Page, AZ. We stopped at two other overlooks on the way out. The view can change from stopping point to stopping point. Views of the Colorado River are infrequent; it is a mile down and the canyon is 10 to 12 miles wide here. The canyon twists and turns and canyon walls and lesser eroded walls block your view. During the 24 hours we were here, and including sunrise and sunset, I did not find the canyon as colorful as is frequently portrayed in paintings and photographs. Outstanding and awe-inspiring, yes.

On the drive to Page we stopped at McAllister’s Deli at Cameron. This interchange in the middle of nowhere has been improved with a roundabout and new restaurants and gas stations. Our destination was to reach Ken’s Tours at Lower Antelope Canyon by 2 PM. There are tours for Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon. Both are located on Navajo reservation land and the guides are Navajo. We prefer the Lower Antelope tours since: a. You do not have to ride an open air Jeep on dusty roads to reach the canyon; b. The walk through the canyon is one-way, you do not have to jostle and deal with people coming at you in order to take your photos.

The tour takes an hour to an hour and a half. The canyon is formed by rushing waters after the monsoon season (July and August) rains erode away the sandstone. It is called a slot canyon, it is wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. As you walk through, watching for low overhangs and protruding walls, you are amazed by the wavy designs and formations observable all around you. There are also metal stairs that must be dealt with as you enter and a few times through the canyon.

Chris and I had been here once before, it was the first time for Deb and Rebecca. My words are poor efforts to describe the effect, I will allow pictures to paint the view for you.

Dinner was at Bonkers, a local restaurant with very good food. All of us were pleased, with the meal and the chocolate desserts.

Chris, Ed, Rebecca, Deb at Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antleope Canyon

Lower Antleope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon, Page AZ

Ed and Chris. June 1

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