Monthly Archives: May 2014

2014 Trip Four, May 13, The Southwest

Sunday May 18 in Monument Valley AZ for Tuesday,May 13 on Lake Powell

Lou and Chris looking out at Gunsight Bay

Lou and Chris looking out at Gunsight Bay

Tuesday was a hiking day. In the morning, Lou, Chris and Ed returned to the canyon stream bed they discovered Monday and hiked it further to the point of no advancement-unless you were in to rappelling which we were not. Along the way we came across several places with a profusion of wildflowers. At a bend in the creek bed, Lou and Chris discovered several schools of tadpoles. We followed the stream bed out to the lake and then went up the cliff.

A view along the morning hike

A view along the morning hike

Climbing the cliff was a challenge but we handled it. This was an intermediate cliff, not the several hundred foot cliffs behind the houseboat. The views were grand and we felt proud of ourselves for accomplishing the climb up-and back down.

Lou jumping the creek

Lou jumping the creek

After lunch, since Joyce was still feeling poorly, Chris and Ed went hiking in the opposite direction along the base of the cliff. Chris resisted the urge to stop in at the other three houseboats parked a ways down the beach.

Area of the afternoon hike

Area of the afternoon hike

The hike was flatter than the morning hike and I can not say that we discovered anything unusual, but the open air and grand vistas were rewarding. When we returned from the hike, as we were sitting on the deck of the houseboat, we saw a coyote prancing along the area where Manning usually takes his walks. After that, Manning was always on a leash.

Our coyote visitor

Our coyote visitor

Dinner consisted of grilled pork tenderloin, baked potatoes and fresh green beans. The moon rose over the lake again providing dramatic views. Even better, the wind was calm and the water was smooth so the boat was pretty much stationary during the night.

Moon rise over Gunsight  Bay

Moon rise over Gunsight Bay

Ed and Chris May 17 9:25 pm

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2014 Trip Four, May 12, The Southwest

Monument Valley, May 17 for Monday, May 12 on Lake Powell

Houseboat viewed from our hike

Houseboat viewed from our hike

Monday was clear, breezy and warmer-but not warm. Joyce was still feeling under the weather so Lou, Chris and Ed went for a two hour hike in the morning. We were beached in an area with rock cliffs not too far away so we decided to explore them. We ended up finding a creek bed also.

Lou and  Chris on  hike

Lou and Chris on hike

The cliffs are sandstone, or so sayeth our resident geologist (Lou has his BA and MA in geology). We found the terrain to be a combination of dry creek bed, hard rock, or soft, deep sand which was deeper and softer than any beach we have been on. The cliffs behind the boat evidenced varying degrees of erosion. There was one location that from the boat looked like a face with large mouth, two eyes, nose, etc. Up close the resemblance was still there but not as dramatic.

prickly pear cactus blooming after rain

prickly pear cactus blooming after rain


More blooming flowers

More blooming flowers


We passed the end of the cliff and started climbing up and discovered a wide area of wildflowers. Prickly pear we could identify, the others seemed to be ones we have seen before but could not identify. We hiked up higher and then discovered a creek bed with running water and green vegetation. A way down was found, not without challenge, but successful. After hiking a ways up the creek bed, we decided we might be biting off too much and headed back. Of course, we had to find our way back up the rock cliff. In the end, we made it safely back to the houseboat in time for lunch.

National Parks Monopoly

National Parks Monopoly

The afternoon we stayed in with Joyce and played National Parks Monopoly- a version that replaces streets with national parks and community chest with historic sites. Okay, yes we snacked also. Joyce, who had limited experience with Monopoly, was the winner.

We only had to replace one anchor site. The runoff from the mountains was continuing, not enough to make an impact on the drought in this area, but enough to make us worry that the water would start to seep into the hole. Most nights we would pick out a marke and see how much higher the water was the following morning.

View from  the hike

View from the hike

Full moon will be Thursday but we have been benefiting from the moon shining on the lake and rocks most nights. My camera does not take good night landscape shots so I can not demonstrate for you. The moon came out around 7-8:30 during this time period and made for dramatic viewing. Some nights the moon came up as the sun was going down. During the night, it was easy to check on the anchors and tethering ropes because the moon was so bright. It lit up the rock cliffs behind us and shined on the lake. A beautiful view. Of course, you know we must have planned this.

Ed and Chris Sat. May 17 at 6 pm for Monday May 12

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2014 Trip Four, May 11, The Southwest

Monument Valley AZ on May 17 for Sunday May 11 on Lake Powell

Sunday’s weather was as the forecast predicted, breezy, cold, periodic rain. The guys went out in the rain and re-positioned (Dug a very deep hole) one of the anchors. Our primary task for the day was to get Dave and Toni back to the Antelope Point marina where they had parked their car the previous Friday morning. Chris suggested we call the marina and ask if they have a water taxi. Everybody else could not believe she even made that suggestion. Well, except me, I could believe she would suggest it.

To take the houseboat would eat up many gallons of gas and probably five to six hours. The powerboat would be quicker and use way less gas. The powerboat would be open to the elements and the travelers would freeze their fannies off.

Lou and Joyce returning from Antelope Point marina Sunday

Lou and Joyce returning from Antelope Point marina Sunday

There was supposed to be less rain after noon. The decision was made to leave around 12. Joyce and Lou would take Dave and Toni to the marina, re-fuel the powerboat, buy some more ice, and drive back. Chris and Ed and Manning would stay on the houseboat where Chris would worry and Ed would pet Manning who bonds tremendously with Joyce.

Lou walking Manning late Sunday afternoon

Lou walking Manning late Sunday afternoon

Chris and Ed had more winter clothing gear so numerous items were shared with the travelers. They came in mighty handy. Joyce and Lou returned around 4 pm, safe and sound. Dave and Toni were a great addition to the trip. After recovering from the ride back, Lou made burnt hot dogs on the grill for Mother’s Day, Chris’ favorite food.

Sunday's sunset

Sunday’s sunset

Sunday's sunset

Sunday’s sunset


Sunday night the sky cleared up and we had great sunset views. Clearing skies did not eliminate the wind and the night was quite breezy and despite Chris’ concerns, we woke up Monday morning in the same location. Anchors held again.
Sunday's sunset

Sunday’s sunset


Sunday's sunset

Sunday’s sunset

Ed and Chris May 17 1 pm for Sunday May 11

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2014 Trip Four, May 10, The Southwest

Monument Valley AZ Friday May 16

Post for Saturday May 10, Lake Powell

Morning dawned and miracle of miracles, the houseboat was still anchored at the location we had beached it. The winds and the waves had made the boat sway during the night but it was still beached. Some slept soundly through the night, others not so much due to concern of being unanchored. Unfortunately Joyce was not feeling well and ear/sinus issues would plague her for most of the trip.

Out powerboating Saturday May 10

Out powerboating Saturday May 10

The five others went for a power boat ride, with Dave doing the driving. We explored Padre Bay and its many coves. The water level is low and so even Dave and Toni were viewing new formations. In warmer weather, these coves are locations where people would park their boat and go swimming. Many of the boats have slides for people to land in the water. Today’s water temperature was not conducive for that.

Padre Bay is large

Padre Bay is large

At one location, we were all amazed by the sight of a rock arch along the water’s edge. As we got closer, we realized the sun’s angle and the colors of the rock had created an optical illusion and there was no arch.

One of the coves off Padre Bay

One of the coves off Padre Bay

With Dave driving, we were comfortable coming closer to the edge of the cliffs and seeing the rock formations from just a few feet away.

exploring Padre Bay

exploring Padre Bay

We stopped and beached the boat once and went for a short hike among the rocks, Since we were unsure how secure the beaching was, we did not stray too far from the boat. All in all, we spent most of the morning out boating.

walking around on Saturday

walking around on Saturday

Lou checking out the rocks

Lou checking out the rocks

The afternoon started getting cloudy and windy and the group stayed on the houseboat. Dinner was spaghetti and meatballs with Joyce’s homemade meatballs.

The clouds start gathering

The clouds start gathering

This night, the wind and rain came and rocked the boat quite a bit. Chris repeated her mantra “out of my comfort zone” quite a few times but the anchors held.

Ed and Chris May 17 at 7 am for May 10 Still getting caught up for after a week of no internet

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Thursday May 15 Page AZ and back on the grid-somewhat.

It has been a week since we last posted anything. I will try to get caught up over time. It may be hit or miss. We are staying tonight at the Lake Powell resort right by the marina where we rented the houseboat. The hotel only has internet in the lobby and my hotspot is still slow-but operational. The lodging for the next three nights is in Monument Valley Utah/Arizona and I am not sure internet connections will be better.

We thought houseboating on Lake Powell would be an adventure. We got it-and more. Yes, we thoroughly had a great time but it was work and nervousness also. I hope I can do the full story justice. It may come out in bits and pieces over several postings as we get caught up to a week without internet.

WE rented a houseboat at Wahweap Marina, part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation area formed by the construction of the Glen Canyon dam completed in 1966. The damming of the Colorado River has created the second largest reservoir in the US. The reservoir,Lake Powell, has created a water mecca in the middle of the desert. (No ecological or environmental analyses today.)

Our trip was born of a conversation early last winter as Chris and I were planning another southwest US trip. We mentioned our thoughts to Lucien and Joyce, who live in Phoenix, and we agreed on a joint adventure. Boy, there was no way Chris and I could have done this by ourselves. Lou did a wonderful job talking to colleagues who have done this and researching options. We ended up getting a great, pre-summer price on a 53′ boat that is the top of the economy line. (Picture on May 8 posting.) There were two staterooms, two bathrooms, two refrigerators and two lower level sleeping areas. There was a combined kitchen/living room, upper deck, and decks on the aft and stern ends of the boat.

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

towing powerboat on Lake Powell

We did our homework. We practiced tying boating knots. We read reviews and made lists of the items we should bring with us. We had pie tins prepared to run the anchor ropes through to prevent mice and shore critters from running up the anchor ropes and getting on board the boat. We agreed we would also rent a powerboat to more easily go exploring in narrow canyons. Joyce was designated captain since she had experience driving powerboats-although not houseboats. Joyce worked up the menu and Lou and Joyce brought most of the food and supplies. A colleague of Lou and his wife, Dave and Toni, agreed to join us for the weekend. They had boated here before and provided not only great companionship but also technical knowledge.

Another member of our group was Manning, Lou and Joyce’s new Corgi. He behaved fantastically. Took to the houseboat, powerboat, romping on the sandy beach and rocky areas alike. Never made a mess, was quiet, well-behaved but never fully warmed up to Chris and Ed.

along lake Powell

along lake Powell

Dave and Toni arrived at 8 am Friday and by 8:30 we were receiving our instructions. All of us listened in to share the knowledge. The gas tank had not been topped off so it necessitated a stop at the fueling station before we headed out. Ah, heading out. Wisely Joyce decided to opt for the free pilot services to get the boat out of the dock. Even the pilot bumped a few things and it gave Joyce some experience in observing how to handle tight corners. The pilot gets a ride back to the dock once the boat is past the breakwater. The power boat is picked up separately and Lou and Dave drove that out to the breakwater, tied it to the rear of the houseboat and we were off around 11 AM.

Along  Lake Powell

Along Lake Powell

The views were breathtaking. Canyon walls are all around you. The width of the channel varies, sometimes narrow leading to driving challenges to avoid other boaters. Sometimes the channel is wide with coves and bays leading off of it and despite periodic marker buoys, you are constantly using binoculars to spot the main channel ahead. There are also areas where you have to slow down, to avoid creating wakes in marinas or narrow channels.

Along Lake powell

Along Lake powell

Initially we thought about “beaching” the houseboat in two or three locations during the week we had it. Our first spot had to be relatively close to the marina since we had to return Dave and Toni on Sunday afternoon. It is 150 miles on the Lake from first to last marina. Gunsight Bay was our first choice, only about 20 miles from Wahweap. The houseboat goes about 8-10 miles per hour. The optimal location would be on the west side of the bay, protected from winds, and several turns into the bay to protect from waves on the main channel. It had to be rockless, room to anchor, shallow enough to beach the boat but without getting stuck in mud, and it had to be available-other boaters are out and have the same goals. After three hours, we lucked out with a spot at the very end of Gunsight Bay.

Houseboat beached

Houseboat beached

“Beaching’ the boat involves several steps. After the captain rams the boat onto the shore, the crew gets to go dig holes. Four anchors have to be placed in holes three feet deep and several feet long and wide. Two anchors are to be at about 45 degree angles and two anchors at about 60 degree angles. They have to be placed far enough on shore to avoid rising waters. (The sand was heavy and rocks were abundant.) Wind and storms come up frequently and pull at the boat.

View from our beached  houseboat site

View from our beached houseboat site

The anchoring of the boat was Chris’ biggest concern during the week. The lake level rose each night as snow melt from the Colorado mountains came down river. We had wind gusts of 35 mph Saturday and Sunday night that pulled at the boat, making it sway in the wind. Over the week’s period, we dug new holes once for each anchor to move it higher up the shore. Chris’ frequent mantra was “This is outside of my comfort zone.”

The Friday night meal was hamburgers cooked on the grill on the bow of the boat.

Ed and Chris Friday May 16 11:15 AM

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2014 Trip Four, May 9, The Southwest

Page AZ May 9

Well I am trying for pictures here. Still at dock. We shall see what happens.

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Lake Powell and Glen Canyon dam

Red Mesa AZ

Red Mesa AZ

Two pics ok, then it slowed down.
Ed 6 am

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2014 Trip Four, May 8, The Southwest

Lake Powell, Page, AZ Thursday May 8

Home for the next 7 nights

Home for the next 7 nights

The Adventure Has Begun. We made it to Page and are on the houseboat. Normally the houseboat rental runs from Friday morning to early Thursday afternoon. We paid extra to pre-board the boat Thursday evening. You still can’t leave the marina but you can unload your car and arrange your stuff on the boat. Boy, this seems to be a real life saver so far.

Well, down in by the water my hot spot is not getting good enough connection to attach pictures. So I am uploading this (hopefully) with just the one picture and maybe can do more at another time.

The four of us have our clothing to arrange in a closet and no shelves. Oh, and no hangers. We have food and beverages for a week. (I have given up milk for the duration.) We have miscellaneous odds and ends like beach towels and first aid kit, etc. Storage space is at a premium. We also made a last minute run to Safeway and Walmart (sorry) for ice, etc. If we had to wait Friday morning for our turn to be processed and then load the boat, we wouldn’t get out of the marina until the middle of the afternoon.

Tomorrow morning we should get priority check out. Then we will see how well, or if, we can handle the houseboat. We have been told internet connection is good in the middle of the lake. But we will be beached at night in coves and in canyons. If you do not see a post for several days, we just do not have connections.

The day started in Durango CO will temperatures in the mid-30s, clouds and a few brief snow showers. The weather improved as we drove west. We had to be here early before the office closed at 5 to finish paperwork and we only stopped once for a brief visit at Four Corners, the location where Utah, New Mexico, Arizona and Colorado come together.

The Navajo nation runs the 4 corners monument. They charge $5 per person admission. I guess they need to make money some how. The site is bare bones; but they have managed to install four sides of brick enclosures so native arts and crafts can be sold. We took a few pictures and kept going.

The drive through Arizona returned to the Southwest theme of canyons, buttes, mesas and red rock. Juniper and pinon trees were growing in some locations. The rock formations can be striking. I expect we will see many more over the course of the next few weeks.

We did squeeze in a visit to the Glen Canyon dam. We did not take the tour, we have toured several others including Hoover, Grand Coulee, and one other along the Columbia river. The region is still suffering from a drought period, we can see where the water level had been much higher on the rocks by the dam.

Ed and Chris 11:45 pm

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2014 Trip Four, May 7, The Southwest

Durango CO Wednesday May 7

Pike's Peak viewed from west of Limon CO

Pike’s Peak viewed from west of Limon CO

We have returned to the mountains. We got an early start today since most of the driving was on two lane roads. The road from Limon to Colorado Springs begins in ranching area and soon reaches the ‘burbs. Our first glimpse of Pikes Peak came along this road.

Driving along I-25

Driving along I-25

A quick drive down I-25 with its gusty winds brought us to Walsenburg. Along the way, I-25 is edged with tall mountains on the west side, making the drive quite scenic. The weather cooperated on this stretch, with sunny skies. We will be returning to Pueblo and Colorado Springs at the back end of this trip and will spend several days here.

Driving to Alamosa

Driving to Alamosa

Walsenburg began our drive along US 160. For the first half of the drive, the road is in the valley with mountain ranges north and south. The Sangre de Christo mountains to the north were particularly attractive. We had lunch at a local brewpub in Alamosa.

Along San Juan river driving to Durango

Along San Juan river driving to Durango

Past Alamosa, the drive is in the mountains. The clouds gathered, the temperatures dropped, and we experienced a few brief snow showers. The road was still wide, though, and not nerve-wracking.

In the San Juan Mountains on the way to Durango

In the San Juan Mountains on the way to Durango

We arrived in Durango around 4 pm and plan to do some laundry before being on the houseboat for 7 nights. Tomorrow’s drive will be through mountains and desert. We need to be in Page AZ in plenty of time to finalize the houseboat paperwork.

Ed and Chris 6:50 pm

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2014 Trip Four, May 6, The Southwest

Limon CO Tuesday May 6

We gained 4000 feet in elevation today driving from Lincoln NE (about 1175 feet) to Limon CO (about 5375) and we can not even see any mountains. The Plains have a very gradual incline that is only periodically noticeable. The drive includes a varying set of flat land and rolling hills. The colors can be quite enchanting but it is still a long drive.

A normal view today

A normal view today

Two major stops were included today. The Homestead National Monument of America is located outside Beatrice NE and recognizes the impact of the Homestead Act, the 1862 law that gave 160 acres of surveyed, government land to anyone who improved the land with a cabin and continually planted crops for five years. Daniel Freeman persuaded a land agent to open his doors at just after midnight when the law became effective so he could return to his Union regiment. He is anecdotally credited with being the first homesteader and the monument is on his land that he “proved up”.

Daniel Freeman cabin

Daniel Freeman cabin

One exhibit at National Homestead Monument

One exhibit at National Homestead Monument

One of the excellent displays in the center is titled “Opportunity and Displacement” The Homestead Act had a transformative impact on America. For European immigrants, the real promise of land of their own, not servitude, was like manna from heaven. 1,600,000 homestead applications were proved up, resulting in the massive populating of the vast reaches of the US west of the Mississippi River. (There were some east of the river, but most were west.) The US concept of private property which distinguished it from the Spanish colonization in South America gained an even stronger foothold. The re-settling of people intent on farming created markets for railroads, and the impetus of development of farming materials and barbed wire.

Times were rough before the Dust Bowl of the 1930s. Locust plagues were not uncommon. Much of the land was not close to water and the climate was arid. The disruption of the naturally prairie grasses caused erosion and habitat destruction.

Displacement refers obviously to the impact on the American Indian and the continuation of the taking of their land and broken treaties. Their way of life was destroyed. The Park Service does an excellent job presenting the complex issues involved in all of these topics.

Our drive continued on two lane roads through the farmlands of Nebraska and Kansas until we reached Abilene, Kansas. This once wild cattle drive town was the boyhood home of Dwight D. Eisenhower. We visited his boyhood home, presidential library and museum. Dwight, his five brothers and parents lived on the “wrong side of the tracks” but all six became successful. On V-E Day when a reporter asked Mrs. Eisenhower if she was proud of her son, she asked: “Which one?”

Eisenhower boyhood home in Abilene KS

Eisenhower boyhood home in Abilene KS

Mrs. Eisenhower died in 1946 and the home was purchased directly by the foundation planning a veterans memorial which was converted into the presidential library and museum along with the home. The home is modest and includes the family furnishings in the house in 1946. Indoor plumbing was added when Dwight was 18.

Living room of the home

Living room of the home

The museum was overwhelming, primarily covering WWII and his presidency. I had forgotten that Ike was promoted to Supreme Allied Commander in WWII over hundreds of higher ranking officers. Quite a recommendation, since he did not obtain combat duty during WWI. We could have spent more time here but after almost three hours, we had to get moving, we were still in eastern Kansas.

Luckily we knew that the time zone change would occur today. This gave us an extra driving hour. We made it to Limon, CO (population 1868) by 7:45 MDT.

Ed and Chris 10:20 pm MDT

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2014 Trip Four, May 5, The Southwest

May 5, Monday, Lincoln NE

Trip Four Has Begun!!!! The exclamation points are deserved. This trip was to begin 6 days ago. Due to the exceptional helpfulness of four different dentists, we are lucky to be underway at all. We had two planned dental appointments scheduled for the 8 days we were between trips three and four. A crown was delayed by an unexpected root canal. The replacement of a temporary to a permanent filling was later supplemented by another unexpected root canal.

One dentist came in on his day off, did prep work for the delayed crown for Chris, squeezed Ed in without an appointment, and took Chris’ crown mold and hand delivered it to the dental lab. Another dentist took Chris in and did her root canal expeditiously. A third dentist was able to fit Ed in due to a cancellation and the fourth, miracle of miracles, just happened to have a root canal cancellation called in the previous afternoon for the time at which dentist three said, oops, Ed you need a root canal.

Chris healed great, Ed was a little slower. His slowness necessitated us to drop Austin TX, the Texas hill country and Big Bend National Park. The difference in the two travel plans are shown in MapQuest maps at the end of the blog. Six less days, 1000 less miles and a different route to Page AZ where the first new adventure will be houseboating on Lake Powell.

site of the first robbery of a moving train

site of the first robbery of a moving train

Today was planned to be a simple travel day but once underway we realized we had missed the allure of the open road. We made two stops in west central Iowa. Our first stop was the site of the first robbery of a moving train! I know, you expected to see a large museum but instead it was a nicely done highway marker just west of Adair IA. The plaque commemorates the date of July 21, 1873 when Jesse James (yes, that one) and his gang robbed a Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific railroad by pulling out the spikes holding the rails and then separating the two rails. This action killed both the engineer and the fireman in the crash.

Jesse had information that $75,000 in gold was to be coming from Cheyenne WY on this train. However, the gold shipment was delayed and they only got $3,000. Justice of a sorts arrived in 1882 when a member of the gang was tempted by reward money on Jesse’s head and killed him in the James home in St. Joseph, MO.

Danish windmill in Elk  Horn IA

Danish windmill in Elk Horn IA

Twenty miles west of Adair is the town of Elk Horn, IA, supposedly the largest rural Danish settlement in the U.S. (exact numbers were not given). In the 1970s, the community raised funds and purchased a windmill made in Denmark in 1848. They had it dismantled, numbering each piece, constructed a working model, and shipped the pieces and the model to Elkhart where volunteer labor re-built the windmill in 12 months.

The windmill still works although it was not turning today. It provides an interesting juxtaposition to the surrounding area where there are at least hundreds if not thousands of wind turbines running. Denmark has one of the largest manufacturers of wind turbines and while we did not climb the turbines to see who the manufacturer was, we will say they were of Danish design.

Elk Horn is just west of Adair which at 1,471 feet above sea level is the highest point in southern IA. The hills and ridges along this section of I-80 appeared to have even more wind turbines than the Buffalo Ridge area along I-90 in southwestern MN.

Danish American museum with two original street lights from Copenhagen out front

Danish American museum with two original street lights from Copenhagen out front

Elk Horn hosts the Danish American Library and Archives, a modern building with interesting exhibits on Denmark, its history, people (Danes spell Christensen with an “e” at the end which I learned years ago from a co-worker in PA), migration, religion, etc. We spent an interesting hour reviewing the exhibits and recalling a brief trip we made to Tyler MN two years ago which was another Danish settlement in America.

A few facts. CA, UT and MN have the largest number of Danes. Utah is high since a number of Danes converted to Mormonism and due to religious persecution (Lutheranism was the state religion at the time), they emigrated to the US and Utah. Some notable modern Danish companies are Maersk shipping, Lego, and Novo Nordisk. Muslims are currently about 4% of the population in Denmark, immigrating in since the 1970s. The archives are undergoing an expansion due to the number of artifacts they own.

Thus, a few tidbits to spice up an otherwise basic travel day.

Ed and Chris 8 pm

2014trip4

Revised Trip 4 of 2014

Revised Trip 4 of 2014

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