Monthly Archives: April 2014

2014 Trip Two, April 2, Deep South

Wednesday, April 2, Folkston GA

What a glorious day!! Beautiful weather and great explorations.

Our breakfast at The Inn at Folkston was bacon,homemade banana nut waffles and fruit and granola. Plenty of energy for a full day of activities.

Okefenokee National  Wildlife Refuge

Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge

The Okefenokee Wildlife Refuge was our destination for the day. The refuge protects the Okefenokee Swamp and covers 630 square miles in southeast Georgia. It extends 38 miles north to south and 25 miles east to west. There is no road through it. The terrain includes bogs, swamps, wetlands, lakes, uplands, etc. It is home to a vast array of animals and plant life. Much of the “bottom” is composed of peat; sometimes underwater and sometimes the peat has loosened and floated to the top where it acts like an island.

egret

egret

The refuge was established in 1937, primarily to protect waterfowl and birds. There had been attempts going back to the 1890s to drain the entire swamp to provide agricultural land and to harvest timber. Luckily the swamp was tougher to conquer than the investors had imagined, their funds ran out. Over the years, most of the longleaf pine was cut down and replaced with slash pine, which is harvested quickly for pulpwood. The refuge is trying to replant the longleaf which is more favorable for the diverse plant and animal life here.

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We started out on the Swamp Drive. At our first stop by a pond we saw our first alligators of the day. At the pond, we met two volunteers, one of whom is doing this full time for five months, then she will be off to a different wildlife refuge to repeat the process. We determined she was at the National Bison Refuge in Montana when we visited it in August of 2013. She also maintains a blog writing about her adventures as a vagabond volunteer.

Chesser homestead

Chesser homestead

The Refuge maintains the original homestead of one of the families that lived in this part of the Okefenokee Swamp. The family moved out in the 1950s. They had 9 children and some of the extended family are employed or volunteer here. The yard was always sand swept very neatly. They kept it swept to reduce the fire hazard and to be able to observe any snakes or snake trails.

raccoon

raccoon

A boardwalk runs out 3/4 mile to an observation tower. Along the boardwalk we saw various birds, a raccoon, a snake, and a slider turtle. The boardwalk was recently rebuilt; in 2011 there were major fires that destroyed the previous boardwalk. Fire is a major component of life in the swamp. Lightning is the historical cause and fire plays an important role in the rejuvenation of the ecosystem-something we have learned at national parks previously visited.

prescribed burn under way

prescribed burn under way

The refuge management is frequently undertaking prescribed burns-although the 2011 fire was not prescribed. When we drove out for a late lunch, the area along the access road was being burned. The smoke and smell are noticeable for some distance even though the area involved was minor.

boat ride vista

boat ride vista

thicket along the boat reide

thicket along the boat ride

swamp iris

swamp iris


swamp prairie

swamp prairie

A four and a quarter hour boat ride on the swamp took up the late afternoon and early evening. Six of us went out on the swamp with a guide for an extended excursion. The guide turned out to be the co-owner of the concessionaire, Okefenokee Adventures. In a drawl that sounded like an backwoods swamper, he educated us for over four hours on a myriad of topics covering politics, ecology, geology, and biology. He identified plant life and birds, including the bittern which evidently is a rare sighting. He related tales of the Okefenokee, the role of fire, threats to the refuge driven by economics, etc. It was a fascinating and educational experience, compounded by the great weather, beautiful sunset, and almost complete lack of biting insects.

sunset on the swamp

sunset on the swamp

Chris and Ed 11:45 pm

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2014 Trip Two, April 1, Deep South

Tuesday, April 1 Folkston, GA

The cabin at Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park was quite nice. We would be willing to stay here again.

Suwanee River

Suwanee River

The Suwanee River starts at the Okefenokee Swamp in GA where we will be later today. The sulphur springs at the park add to the flow as it meanders to the Gulf of Mexico. We stopped at the springs area which had been a popular tourist attraction in the late 1800s. The spring now is pretty much enclosed and the town is trying to re-invent itself for biking/canoeing/kayaking adventures.

Suwanee River

Suwanee River

There is a visitor center in town that is being run solely by local volunteers due to budget cuts. The volunteer on duty when we arrived early this morning was very pleasant and informative about the town. She suggested several local restaurants that were not known to us and we had lunch at an old hotel restaurant that had re-opened recently.

walking in Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park

walking in Stephen Foster Folk Culture Center State Park

However, she also informed us about the death of two canoeists on the Suwanee just a week ago. A couple from NY had come down to go canoeing but were told by the state park rangers that the canoe launches in the park were closed due to high water and they should not go canoeing. Evidently they decided to launch their canoe outside of the park. The cause is not known but they ended up in the water and their bodies were found a few days later.

walking in park

walking in park

So we listened to the rangers and went walking instead. The recent rains meant that several paths were water covered and we had to back track a few times. The park was not terribly busy today but a tractor show/festival will be occurring this weekend and they expect a full house. Each month the park has some festival scheduled. There is a folk music festival over Memorial Day weekend.

Flowers in the park

Flowers in the park

One of the craft stores was open and we chatted with the needle work person. She and her husband are from northern MA and have been volunteering here for 14 years. Her husband is a carpenter and his services have been used throughout the park. She makes crafts and sells them. They stay for four months and live in their RV along with other volunteers in a separate RV village in the park.

After lunch, we took two lane back roads to Folkston, GA where we will be visiting the Okefenokee Swamp. Wildflowers lined most of the roads. Azaleas were blooming profusely along road sides, in yards, and in the park. We passed several Florida correctional institutions and a large Waste Management landfill. Not everything is flowers and green trees.

The Okefenokee Swamp is a national wildlife refuge. Okefenokee means “land of the trembling earth”. Much of the park is built on peat bogs; walking on it is soft and wavy. We stopped at the visitor center but did not have time to do any hikes. Tomorrow we plan on hiking, driving and taking a four hour boat ride through the swamp.

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Tonight we are at the Inn at Folkston, a very nice B and B run by a retired railroad conductor and his wife. Dinner was in “downtown” Folkston at the one non-franchise, sit-down restaurant open. Folkston is a train watching town. The CSX railroad runs about 60-70 trains a day through the town on two tracks. It is a main line route in which 90% of the trains into Florida go through this town. On Saturday, the town is having “Train Watch”, a local festival where train aficionados spend the day watching trains and sharing their hobby with like-minded folks.

Folkston CSX train

Folkston CSX train

Ed and Chris April 1 10 pm

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