Monthly Archives: October 2013

2013 Trip Eight, The Ozarks, Oct. 31

Van Buren, AR Thursday Oct. 31

Bella Vista Wall of Honor

Bella Vista Wall of Honor

The morning continued the warm, rainy pattern from Wednesday but cleared up by noon. To be on the safe side, we spent the early parts of the day primarily inside. Our first stop was the Veteran’s Wall of Honor in Bella Vista. This was a project of the local VFW and American Legion.

Original Walton 5 and 10

Original Walton 5 and 10

Then it was on to downtown Bentonville. We visited the Sam Walton Museum housed in the first Walton’s 5 and 10 store. (He had managed Ben Franklin stores prior to this.) Sam’s life of beginning humbly but being driven to succeed and provide goods at rock bottom prices so people could buy more and live on less is repeated throughout the museum. The growth of Walmart (first store in Rogers, AR in 1962) is documented. The focus on being people driven is highlighted along with recent efforts for environmental and charitable actions. Whatever your thoughts about Walmart, it is a remarkable story.

We finished up the museum with spending money on another ice cream lunch-and a post card- at the soda fountain. Another stop was the 21c Hotel. It is a new, funky hotel that has been rated one of the top ten in the U.S.

Crystal Bridges Art Museum in Bentonville, AR

Crystal Bridges Art Museum in Bentonville, AR

"Kindred Spirits" by Asher Brown Durand at Crystal Bridges

“Kindred Spirits” by Asher Brown Durand at Crystal Bridges

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The afternoon was spent at Crystal Bridges. You may or may not have heard of this art museum. It is in Bentonville and opened on Nov. 11, 2011. The collection features American art. It is primarily a creation of Alice Walton (the daughter of Sam and Helen Walton) and the Walton Family Foundation. Admission is free, sponsored by Walmart. The design of the museum did not impress us, primarily due to the heavy use of concrete which to us overwhelmed the supposed theme of glass and wood.

"Dolly Parton" by Andy Warhol at Crystal Bridges

“Dolly Parton” by Andy Warhol at Crystal Bridges

"Man on Bench" sculpture by Duane Hanson at Crystal Bridges

“Man on Bench” sculpture by Duane Hanson at Crystal Bridges

The collection inside is remarkable and has received rave reviews. Crystal Bridges has purchased from other institutions and collectors famous works of art with a long list of multi million dollar items. People are coming to Bentonville from all over the U.S., probably the world, to view these masterpieces. As a totally free museum, one can return frequently. Non flash photography is allowed so we can include several of the artworks for your pleasure.

Outdoor sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Outdoor sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Along the sculpture trail at Crystal Bridges

Along the sculpture trail at Crystal Bridges

The grounds of the museum have several trails winding through the property with outdoor sculpture at numerous locations. The afternoon was relatively clear and we walked around most of the property.

"buckeyball" sculpture at Crystal Bridges

“buckeyball” sculpture at Crystal Bridges

Tonight we are staying in Van Buren, AR, in west-central AR close to the Oklahoma border. We will be visiting Fort Smith Friday.

Ed Heimel Chris Klejbuk Oct. 31 9 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 30, The Ozarks

Wednesday, Oct 30, Bella Vista, Arkansas

Fall colors were at the peak we have seen so far from Minnesota to Arkansas. But the day was foggy, misty, sprinkling and pouring rain so the good pix are few and far between. The weather also changed our plans a bit.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

We drove from Mountain View to Bella Vista via Eureka Springs. We had planned to spend some time exploring Eureka Springs; instead we only had lunch there, saw a video of the town’s history, and researched the availability of going on a van tour next week. We figure we will have time to spare in Branson and Eureka Springs is only an hour’s drive from Branson.

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

Driving through Arkansas Ozarks

The drive from Mountain View took us back through Searcy County, home of Leslie-which was mentioned in a prior blog. A brochure we had picked up revealed that Searcy County, per the 2010 census, had 8200 people. It also had 39 churches, none of them Jewish, Catholic, Mormon, or Muslim. That is about 200 people per church.

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

A bright tree along the highway in Arkansas

When we were at the Folk Art Center, the cooperage shop had an article about Leslie and how it was home in the early 1900s to the largest barrel making factory in America. When we went through the town, we did see a stave making factory. The population of Leslie went from about 1500 people in 1910 to 450 souls now.

So too Eureka Springs. It grew dramatically due to the springs found there and the claim that the springs had medicinal value. In 1879, the town grew from almost nothing to 10,000 people in less than 12 months. It became the fourth largest city in Arkansas at the time. Now the population is just over 2,100 and focuses on tourists. The rise and change of many small towns has been an interesting aspect of our trips.

There was a Road Scholar tour group of about 70 people from Houston staying at Mountain View also. They are probably learning more details than we did since there were seminars held for them. We have received their literature frequently. For now, we plan to continue on our own, setting our own pace and picking our own locations to stop.

The road to Bella Vista continued our pattern of hilly,curvy, two lane roads. Travel takes a while longer but with the fall colors it was enjoyable, even with the rain. After Eureka Springs we stopped at the Pea Ridge National
Military Park.

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Driving through Pea Ridge National Battlefield

Pea Ridge was the crucial Civil War battle that kept Missouri in the Union. As we learned at the Missouri State Capital, Missouri was a very divided state. It was a slave state that did not secede but was riven by fierce and divided loyalties with many battles and skirmishes during the Civil War.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

10,000 Union troops were chasing 16,000 Confederate troops-which included two regiments of Cherokee Indians. The Union troops included the largest percentage in any battle of non-English speaking soldiers, new immigrants to Missouri from Germany. When we were in Hermannn, MO, the tours there discussed how the Germans came here for the opportunity of freedom and were fierce defenders of the Union cause.

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Pea Ridge Battlefield

Several factors turned the battle for the Union. Early on, the two Confederate generals leading one arm of the Confederates were killed and the leaderless soldiers were without direction and did not participate in the battle. The Confederate primary general made a bold move to out flank the Union. Unfortunately his men had to march for three days to the desired location. They ended up arriving late and tired to the battle and ran low on ammunition because the supplies trailed too far behind the main column. The Union victory helped open the Mississippi River and allowed the Union to split the Confederacy in two. Most of the troops here moved onto battles east of the Mississippi for the duration of the war.

Given the weather, we did not walk the trails, but observed the exhibits, saw the movie, and drove around the battlefields.

We spent the night in Bella Vista with family of friends in the Twin Cities. Bella Vista is a town of 25,000 that has mushroomed in the last 20 years as a suburb of Bentonville. Previously more of a retirement community, it is experiencing the arrival of families and younger couples. We had dinner with our hosts at a long time restaurant in Rogers (a near by town), the Monte Ne Inn, with a great family style chicken dinner.

Ed Heimel and Chris Klejbuk Oct. 31 7 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 29, The Ozarks

Mountain View, AR, Tuesday Oct. 29

Hello Y’all.

cabins at Ozark Folk Center State Park

cabins at Ozark Folk Center State Park

This is day two from Mountain View Arkansas. We are staying at the Ozark Folk Center State Park in cabins they offer to the public. They’re quite comfortable, affordable, but have thin walls. The rain that was projected did arrive today. The temperatures were still warm, reaching the low 70s by late afternoon. This produced occasions of fog or mist in the air. This was probably the best day for fall colors so far.

Knife maker using railroad spikes

Knife maker using railroad spikes

Musicians

Musicians

The first morning activity was to visit the Folk Art Center. The state park is here to preserve and educate about Ozark Mountain folk arts. Some crafts are quite repetitious for us, such as weaving, blacksmithing, jewelry, art, etc.
At the copper craft area, we did discover that color is added to copper jewelry through the application of heat. The color produced is a function of the degree of heat applied to the metal. The colors vary as the temperature changes, somewhat similar to the colors produced at the hot pools in Yellowstone.

This late in the fall the number of musicians present is decreased. There was still one group playing throughout the day. At the knife center, the artisan was making knives from hard carbon railroad spikes. The candlemaker presented a detailed analysis of beeswax candles versus paraffin and stearic candles. Lunch was ice cream at the soda fountain in downtown Mountain View.

Blanchard Springs Cavern. you may need to tap to enlarge to understand its size

Blanchard Springs Cavern. you may need to tap to enlarge to understand its size

Our afternoon was spent at Blanchard Springs Cavern. The cavern is operated as part of the United States Forest Service. We have not been in a cave for decades and while I had it on my list, Chris was a little hesitant. But trooper that she is, we gave it a try. It was an excellent adventure.

This is 6 story tall column

This is 6 story tall column


Missouri and Arkansas are home to 5-6,000 caves due to the limestone geology. The rainfall here is heavier than some other caverns, like Carlsbad in New Mexico, so the formations are dramatic. Blanchard Springs has 11.8 miles of discovered caverns. The caves were only discovered in the mid 1950s with the more impressive caverns not found until the 1960s. It took years to explore sufficient areas and arrange funding to allow normal visitors to view the caverns. They even brought in an international lighting expert to design the lighting and keep it understated.

cave formation

cave formation

Three tours are offered. One, the longer one, is only offered during the summer months. Another one involves climbing through small openings, with hard hats, kneepads, lights,etc. provided. We passed on that one.

cave formation

cave formation

Our tour was 90 minutes and led by Dale from L.A. (Lower Arkansas). There were about a dozen of us and we were all amazed at the display. (Bats are living in other parts of the cavern, not the area we visited. Although we did observe the bat guano left behind from earlier times when this area was bat habitat.)

cave formation

cave formation

cave formation

cave formation

The cavern has features like a 6 story column, flowstone, pools,coral, and just plain lots of dramatic stalagmites and stalactites. Water is still seeping in so the mineral deposits are still occurring. The cavern is still home to a stream running through it. After the cavern tour, we visited Blanchard Springs which releases 10,000,000 gallons of water per day from the cavern.

A rainy fall afternoon

A rainy fall afternoon


Blanchard Springs

Blanchard Springs

Ed and Chris Oct. 29 10:15 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 28, The Ozarks

Monday, Oct. 28, Mountain View, AR

South central Missouri was mostly a mystery to us this morning. We drove from Lake of the Ozarks to Mountain View Arkansas. The fog was heavy until about 11 AM, and intermittent for another hour thereafter. We were able to observe that one highway was named the Fox Trotting Highway and we drove by one livestock auction house. The fog caused us to vacillate back-and-forth about which driving option to use. We had planned to take a ferry in northern Arkansas. However, it would not be running if the fog was heavy.

Ferry departs without us

Ferry departs without us

The "ferry"

The “ferry”

As we approached the cut off where we would decide on the option to take, we decided to take a chance to go with the ferry. We arrived at the ferry landing about three minutes after it had departed. There is only one ferry (run by the AR Dept. of Transportation) going back-and-forth and the option to double back was not realistic. So we waited. By this point, the sun was out and made for a pleasant day.

As the ferry returned, we noticed that it was not so much a ferry as a barge pushed by a tugboat. The barge appeared capable of holding 6 to 8 vehicles.
We made it safely across Bull Shoals Lake. The lake was another long lake created by a dam on the White River in northern Arkansas.

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Hiking at Buffalo National River

Hiking at Buffalo National River

We drove through rolling hills in Northern Arkansas. The fall colors were better here than they were in Missouri. Our second stop was the second US river designated as a national river. The only two rivers are the New River in West Virginia (which we saw in April) and the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas. At the Buffalo National River, we hiked to two overlooks. Canoeing was not an option. Now that we have seen the Buffalo, we have visited both of them.

Our drive to Mountain View occurred almost exclusively on two lane, curvy roads. Looking for something to eat, we stopped at Leslie, Arkansas. Motto: one of the best kept secrets in Arkansas. I think there is a good reason it is a best-kept secret. But the shopkeeper at the store we visited was extremely pleasant and informative. He helped us understand why all the restaurants in town were closed at the moment–it is Monday, they are only open for lunch, etc.

Driving a back road at Buffalo River

Driving a back road at Buffalo River

Our lodging is at the Ozark Folk Culture State Park. Tomorrow we will visit the arts and crafts village here and go to the Blanchard Springs Caverns run by the Forest Service. The caverns were on our plans for today but the weather was decent today and likely to be raining tomorrow so hiking seemed better than caverns today.

Beauty berries in the Ozarks

Beauty berries in the Ozarks

Dinner at the restaurant at the park was local food: ham and beans, chicken and dumplings, blueberry cobbler, turnip greens, fried okra and cornbread for $21.

Not real exciting but some days are like that.

Ed and Chris Oct. 28 9 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct 27, The Ozarks

Sunrise Beach, Oct.27th, Sunday

Early morning mist on Lake of the Ozarks

Early morning mist on Lake of the Ozarks

Another gorgeous fall day. We are enjoying it while we can. The middle of the week will probably have rain and thunderstorms.

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

Lake of the Ozarks State Park

It is Sunday. So we took things a little slower. After sleeping in a bit, we went to Lake of the Ozarks State Park. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, a little farther than Ha Ha Tonka. We spent about three hours hiking. There was not as much elevation gain as Saturday. The trails were just as rocky and challenging. There were noticeably fewer people hiking than on Saturday.

Lake of the Ozarks state park

Lake of the Ozarks state park

Boaters were on the lake enjoying the fall weather, boating and fishing. Other then a little hiking, there is not much else to do in the area. We are spending the balance of the afternoon enjoying the sun’s rays and the warm temperatures. Sunset will be in less than an hour. So while we enjoyed our time, we aren’t upset about packing up and leaving on Monday.

Relaxing at Sunset Inn Resort

Relaxing at Sunset Inn Resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Sunset at the resort

Ed and Chris Oct 27 8 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 26, The Ozarks

Sunrise Beach, MO Oct 26

Morning view of Oct. 26

Morning view of Oct. 26

This was just a gorgeous fall day. Sunny skies. Temperatures in the 50s and 60s. The fall leaf colors are still muted. They are changing but it does not appear this fall will be a glorious leaf color year.

Cliffs of Ha Ha Tonka State Park

Cliffs of Ha Ha Tonka State Park

We spent most of the day at a Missouri State Park called Ha Ha Tonka. The name stands for laughing waters. This park has a natural bridge, a 500 foot long and 300 foot wide sinkhole, lake side cliffs of 250 feet, and a spring discharging 48,000,000 gallons of water per day. We hiked by, around, up, down, and over all the above.

Boulder Ridge trail

Boulder Ridge trail

The Spring-source of 48,000,000 gallons of water

The Spring-source of 48,000,000 gallons of water

Along the Island Trail

Along the Island Trail

We stumbled and bumbled along Boulder Ridge Trail. Aptly named, the uneven trail is full of stones, boulders, and exposed tree roots. The Island Trail circled a small island and passed by a rock neatly balanced on one edge. The Spring Trail took us to the visible source of the 48 million gallon discharge of clear, fast flowing water. The Colosseum (their spelling) Trail took us down into the center of the sinkhole and then up and around the surrounding bluffs.

Castle ruins

Castle ruins


Castle ruins

Castle ruins


Oh, and the castle ruins. A wealthy Kansas City man acquired 5000 acres and began construction of a castle like home. His death in 1905, one of the state’s first automobile deaths, delayed the completion of the home by his sons until the 1920s. Unfortunately, a fire in 1942 destroyed the interior of the building, leaving only the stone walls standing. We hiked around the castle ruins, by the water tower and carriage house, both gutted also.

Mothers' Shrine

Mothers’ Shrine

Before church we visited the Mother’s Shrine, an outdoor amphitheater established by the local Catholic Church to seat 6,000 people for Mass during the summer months. They have erected a statue, fountains, and plaques honoring all mothers. It did not take long to see but since it was attached to the church, we made the effort to visit it.

We had asked a woman greeting people at church for dinner recommendations. We took her advice and went to the “Chances R” restaurant. It had all the ambience of a VFW hall, complete with a bar area that allowed smoking and the same level of high quality furniture. But the food was great and the prices very reasonable. Judging by the banter between the customers and the servers, all of the locals go here. One of the beverage options was buttermilk, my Dad would have loved it. We did not see a wine list, sorry Kathy.

So, a full day. Tomorrow is forecast to be equally pleasant.

Ha Ha Tonka bluffs with castle ruins at very top

Ha Ha Tonka bluffs with castle ruins at very top


View during hike

View during hike

Ed and Chris Oct 26 9:30 pm

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2013 Trip Eight, Oct. 25, The Ozarks

Sunrise Beach, MO Friday October 25

Lake of the Ozarks was created by the construction of a dam and hydro power plant on the Osage River in 1931. With over 1100 miles of shoreline, the dam created one of the largest man-made lakes. The “lake” is narrow, curvy and has many inlets and coves, creating the long shoreline. On a summer weekend, it is estimated that there are 60,000 boats and personal watercraft on the lake over a holiday weekend.

Well, we came here in late fall. There are only a few boats on the lake that we can see. But with the trees, hills, and long man-made lake, it is easy to see why this would be a popular place in the summer. We will spend three nights here, probably hiking in state parks most of the days.

Daniel Boone home

Daniel Boone home

Lake of the Ozarks is not far from St. Louis. We made three stops on our journey here today. The first location was the Daniel Boone home. This was his home later in life and where he died (in 1820). Those of you who know your history will remember that he was born in PA, came from North Caroline over the Cumberland Gap into Kentucky and Tennessee before moving even further west. The historic site is owned by Lindenwood University. They manage it and have brought in about two dozen other historic homes to present a village of that time period.

The Missouri River at Herman

The Missouri River at Herman

Our second stop was the town of Hermann. To reach it, and the Daniel Boone site, we drove along Missouri Highway 94. This narrow two lane road parallels the Missouri River through bluffs and river bottomland. Vineyards and wineries dot the bluffs.

German immigrants settled this area. They came from Germany seeking freedom and chance to own their own land. Germany at that time was governed by numerous small fiefdoms and life was rigidly control. Hermann was a center for the Germans and still reflects much of that heritage, although that heritage seems likely to be replaced by winery tours. German food is now only served in a few restaurants.

Missouri State Capital in Jefferson City

Missouri State Capital in Jefferson City

Our third stop was the state capital in Jefferson City Missouri. We took a guided tour of the building. When the capital was built, they mandated that a portion of the building include a history museum. We found the museum quite enlightening. For instance, we did not know that Missouri was a major lead mining state. The section of the museum regarding the Civil War was also illuminating. The state of Missouri itself resembled a little Civil War. Secessionists and unionists contended for control the state. Missouri had been a slave state and bloody skirmishes over the Kansas-Missouri border began a decade prior to the Civil War.

A portion of Thomas Hart Benton mural in the State Capital

A portion of Thomas Hart Benton mural in the State Capital

One room in the Capitol was particularly dramatic. Murals on all four walls had been painted in the 1930s. The murals reflected the social history of Missouri. They were created by Thomas Hart Benton. The murals alone are a Missouri history lesson, the good and the bad.

The drive from Jefferson City to Lake of the Ozarks was quick. We had hoped for a dramatic photo opportunity. The location we chose was a scenic overlook by the dam creating the lake. However, electric power lines made the photo less than desirable.

We are staying at a family owned resort in Sunrise Beach. The resort is called Sunset Inn. The town of Sunrise Beach is primarily located on the west side of the lake, thus sunrises are more prevalent. Sunset Inn is on the east side of the lake and thus are sunsets more prevalent. The inn will be closing for the season in a few days, it is fairly quiet here now.

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Sunset from Sunset Inn

Sunset from Sunset Inn

Ed and Chris Oct 25 10:30 pm

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2013 Adventure, Trip Eight, Oct. 24, The Ozarks

October 24, St. Louis

Chris and I may have to change our opinion of Herbert Hoover. How is that for a catchy phrase to begin this post?

Some people think our extensive trip planning means we cannot be spontaneous. Far from it. Discipline leads to creativity and exploration. Today we canceled our plans to visit the Mark Twain Museum in Hannibal Missouri in favor of visiting the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site and Presidential Library in West Branch Iowa. We spent two hours learning about Pres. Hoover and could have stayed longer. We don’t intend to write his biography today, but to give several salient points that we had forgotten, and which have been overshadowed by his connection with the Great Depression.

We visited the two room cottage where Hoover was born in 1874. He was raised in the Quaker faith. By age 11, he was an orphan and sent to live with relatives in Oregon. He graduated from Stanford University, as a member of its inaugural class begun in 1891. At Stanford, he met his wife Lou, the first female geology graduate at Stanford and the only female geology major for the next 20 years. She has her own record of amazing contributions.

Hoover birthplace

Hoover birthplace

Hoover became a mining engineer and executive and amassed a fortune through his abilities and hard work. For our purposes, his accomplishments really began after this point. For instance:
a. At the beginning of World War I, he organized a relief effort to bring stranded Americans back home from Europe when all travel was impossible.
b. After the First World War, he was chairman of the American Relief Administration which fed hundreds of millions of people in European countries.
c. During WWI, he was responsible for the relief of starving Belgians.
d. As Secretary of Commerce for seven years, he made major changes in radio broadcasting, drove successful efforts to increase home ownership, instituted improvements to the census, forged an agreement about how to allocate water rights that led to the building of the Boulder (later Hoover) Dam, and provided personal oversight for massive relief efforts after a record flood in the lower Mississippi River in 1927.
e. As President, he instituted numerous improvements in the administrative activities of the US government.
f. Truman called upon Hoover again after the ending of WWII to organize relief efforts in Europe.
g. Chaired two Hoover Commissions, one under Truman and one under Eisenhower, to restructure the U.S. government and eliminate waste and inefficiency.

plaque commemorating Hoover's relief work

plaque commemorating Hoover’s relief work

Of course the Library-Museum is focused on Hoover and the accomplishments he and Lou made during their years. Even so, the depth and breath of their activities is amazing and inspiring. So, next time you are driving through east central Iowa, stop in West Branch. By the end of this Trip Eight, we will have visited three presidential libraries, planning to see the Clinton Library in Little Rock, and the Truman Library in Independence, MO. Hopefully they will be as enlightening as Hoover’s.

West Branch was only a half hour drive from Cedar Rapids where we had spent the previous evening. The rest of our day after the Hoover National Historic Site was spent in driving to St. Louis. We drove by Hannibal, but did not stop there. We began to see increased fall colors as we started moving south through Missouri.

Our evening dinner in St. Louis was spent with Bob and Bonnie Wendt. Ed met Bob through work and appreciated the opportunity to catch up. We had a delightful time and will need to schedule another opportunity to continue our conversations about travel.

Ed and Chris Oct. 24 10 pm

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2013 Adventure, Trip Eight, The Ozarks, Oct.23

Wednesday, Oct. 23 Cedar Rapids, IA

The Ozarks Trip map

The Ozarks Trip map

St. Paul fall colors a day or two before we left on Trip Eight.

St. Paul fall colors a day or two before we left on Trip Eight.


We left St. Paul under cloudy skies and the temps in the 30s. We traveled through the Midwest farm breadbasket as we drove to Cedar Rapids Iowa. There were periods of sleet, hail, and the weather finished up with rain in Cedar Rapids. But, we also lucked out weather-wise. While this was a travel day, we were able to squeeze in some exploration and local education. For those experiences, the weather was reasonable enough.

As we drove through southeastern Minnesota, we experienced a small Amish farming area.

Horse and buggy in SE MN

Horse and buggy in SE MN

This trip was not designed to see fall colors. However, we expect to experience fall leaf colors at least some of the time. The Twin Cities still had some color in the trees. As we drove south, the trees became grayer and had fewer leaves on the trees. Evidently, the Twin Cities are a slight anomaly. As we go yet further south, we expect to pick up on fall colors again.

There is no direct, easy interstate route to St. Louis from St. Paul. As we journeyed on back roads, we experienced numerous farm tractors and equipment on the shoulders of the two lane roads. Most of the modern farm buildings on either side of the border had PA Dutch like decorations. We passed through numerous small towns where the speed drops to 25 to 30 mph. It made for a slower but enjoyable drive.

Typical decoration on farm buildings

Typical decoration on farm buildings


We stopped in Spillville Iowa. This is the home of the Bily clocks and Antonin Dvorak Museum. Spillville is a Czechoslovakian immigrant town. Population 367 people. The Czech composer Antonin Dvorak spent the summer of 1893 in Spillville. His assistant had relatives here and Dvorak enjoyed the Czech flavor of the area and the rural nature as compared to New York City. He made corrections to his new world symphony and created two other works while here. He got up for walks at 4 AM and played the organ at the 7 AM church mass.

Frank and Joseph Bily made hand crafted clocks. This was their hobby during the winter while they farmed during the rest of the year. The clocks are dramatic with intricate carvings. They also made the timing mechanisms. The brothers had a fifth grade education. None of the clocks were ever sold or given away. Henry Ford in 1928 offered $1 million for one of their clocks. This clock, called the American pioneer history clock, was not sold to Henry Ford. They turned him down.

The two brothers had two siblings. None of the four ever married or moved from the area. Frank and Joseph never traveled farther than 35 miles from Spillville. When their mother died, they moved into town from the farm and remained there till they died, bachelors, in 1964 and 1965 in their 80s. The brothers made arrangements that the entire collection of clocks would remain in Spillville in the home Dvorak had summered in.

You’re not allowed to take pictures inside the Museum of the clocks. The pictures we include are photographs from the Bily clock book sold by the museum. They do not do justice to the intricate carvings but were the best we could provide you as an illustration.

The $1,000,000 clock

The $1,000,000 clock

Bily clocks

Bily clocks

The brothers carved a few other items. One was a reproduction of the smallest church in the US. This 10 by 12 foot church is south of Spillville and we stopped there later. We were not able to get inside and see the four pews in the church. The maximum seating capacity is eight people.

Smallest church in America.

Smallest church in America.

While in Spillville, we also stopped at St. Wenceslaus Catholic Church. It was built in 1860. The Czech community built the church while the Germans in the area built another one a mile south of town. St. Wenceslaus is reputed to be the oldest surviving Czech Catholic Church in America.

St. Wenceslaus Church

St. Wenceslaus Church

Continuing our Czech theme, we had dinner at the Blue Toad in Cedar Rapids. The Blue Toad serves Czech food and is located in the Czech Village area of Cedar Rapids.

Tomorrow we drive to St. Louis by way of Hannibal Missouri and visit the Mark Twain Museum.

Ed and Chris 10:30 pm Oct 23.

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